When I came across this gorgeous painting in the Louvre, many years ago, I was shocked. Much in the way I believe Shakespeare’s contemporary audience was when they first saw the sleepwalking, murderous (at least complicit) Lady in the famous play. I adore painting and Fusli was as yet unknown to me. I pretty much stuck to the Italians and the Germans and well-known Dutch, etc at the time. I adore Shakespeare and embracing the tragic romantic that is me, I tend to go back to the great tragedies most often. Lear is of course the greatest, but I do love Macbeth. It is the most dramatic. What does this have to do with perfume? I will tell you. I see paintings like this and I immediately wonder….what do the doctor and the attendant in the background smell? What kind of dark sillage does the Lady leave behind as she wanders the halls, oblivious to her mutterings? Does she smell of bright, cheerful flowers to bely her foul heart? She was after all trying desperately to appear sunny, almost flirty three acts ago. She tried to shed her humanity (she asked to be unsexed, which of course meant humanity, not womanhood)….so would she have doused herself in the softest of rose oils? I think her sheets were heavy with sweat and tears and she, heavy with her deeds, smelled of darkness and despair….These are not Spring thoughts, but I can’t help myself. I think Lady Macbeth’s vanity would have been filled with “pretty” scents, but she would have loathed them all. She would have secretly longed to, “cross the aisle” as it were. She would have doused herself in her fathers’ and brothers’ scents (I have invented a family for her). I think her private collection would have been filled with birches and woods and other dark scents. This is not to say that her actions were typically “masculine”. I simply believe the character indulged a very distorted notion of what is feminine and what is masculine. She was quite simply one twisted woman. If I were to perfume this character, I think I would choose Lutens’ Rose de Nuit. A dark gorgeous rosy chypre with so much red rose and so much depth, I can see Lady Macbeth’s damned spot each time I smell it. So, whom would you love to scent and what would it be……doesn’t have to be the Bard.
Darkness
A Few Pet Peeves
I’m not going to sit here an whine about too many things. I just want some validation. Who amongst us is sick of falling in love with a beautiful, hypnotic gem of a perfume only to find it gone in 60 seconds? 31 Rue Cambon is one of the most gorgeous scents I have smelled. I spray it on quite liberally and it’s like I missed my body. I thought it might be my nose, so I ask those around me what I smell like…..after some convincing that I’m not completely insane they say they don’t smell anything either. Bel Respiro and No 18 hate me too. Let’s move on from Chanel….practically anything that isn’t heavy duty edp seems to disappear immediately after hitting my skin…like my skin is some frightening neighborhood and the molecules run away screaming. This next peeve is my own fault, so I’m calling myself out on it….buying unsniffed only to find the little sucker either horrific or completely and utterly boring….which is worse? Each time I vow not to do it again (if it’s a full bottle) and within a week I’m sucked in by the notes or the reviews. On a completely unrelated topic….Perfumes: The Guide is one of the most hilarious gems to come along in a while. My thoughts on the whole topic…it’s not as if Luca and Tania are trying to convince us that something we love is wrong and we should stop wearing it. If we have no idea, in their opinion, the five and four starred reviews are worth checking out. I was particularly impressed with Ms. Sanchez’ writing and reviewing capabilities. I hope they continue to update the reviews and I would love some vintage reviews as well (some are included in the reviews of updated scents). Well done guys.
Of all the Flowers in the world
No this is not another post on tuberose, although Shakespeare’s character perhaps got it wrong with the rest of that line. (I do adore rose, though). Spring has sprung and now I am forced to bite my tongue regarding the chill in the air. I try not to complain, but alas, bring on the heat. It took Lee, Dusan and a few others to point out to me over the course of a few years that I seem to be drawn to flowers. The bottles I reach for over and over are all dominated by a single stem. From the outrageous tuberose to the demure lily of the valley, I want my florals to showcase a leading lady. I do love tuberose to a fault. I will buy unsniffed anything with tuberose as a dominant player. And truth be told I am rarely disappointed. (I did not adore By Kilian’s Beyond Love, but to me there just wasn’t much to love). There are plenty of gorgeous florals in the bottles that crowd the shelves, so I thought I’d share my current favorites (because next week, they will all change….fickle is such an ugly word. In early Spring, hyacinths always give me pause. I hover over gardens of them even in public to inhale the intoxicating, almost sweetly astringent air. It’s as though I am enjoying a scent I’m not supposed to love….like gasoline (not my cup of tea, but many do love it). Diptyque’s Jardin Clos is a beautiful garden of hyacinths, but they’re screaming to be heard. They are fighting over the bees and moths but the symphony begins to fall flat about 45 minutes into the show. I do love it, but there just isn’t enough to hold my attention for long. L’artisan’s Jacinthe des Bois is turly gorgeous…discontinued, the idiots, but gorgeous. I spray this on and the power is intoxicating. Then, the sweetness of the hyacinths (or blubells, I don’t discriminate) begins to temper the eau. I do love it and now we’re forced to horde….to make room for what I ask you??If roses make you blush, Dior’s Collection Particuliere is magnificent. Probably my favorite Rose to come along in years. The Rose dominates, but in a classically sophisticated way. The scent is simply stunning. The pimento (a note I thought I’d hate) adds just the right “heat” for lack of a better word. Frederic Malle’s Une Rose is dark and gorgeous, but I really have to be in the mood for such a rich rose. So, what are your favorite flowers for the skin?
Happy Easter! Back Next Week!
‘Nuff Already
OK, I apologize for my absence, but I seriously am now just recovering from the nastiness that is Winter’s last dig. She got me, people, but good. I should have gone to the doctor much earlier than I did, but alas, I pick my battles unwisely. I am often mocked for my ability to overreact to minor cuts and scrapes and ignore the truly atrocious. I am sorry for missing last week too.The good news is this…Spring is on its way, whether winter likes it or not. Just imagine Zephyr up there in Botticelli’s masterpiece keeping the frigid winter winds away. This is my favorite painting in the history of art. I am a romantic, ’tis true. This isn’t going to be a post speculating what Venus and the Graces are smelling in the eternal Spring garden. I don’t have the energy quite for that. Simply a Spring favorites post, at least those new, seasonal flankers for which I have a weak spot. You know the ones, tweaked juice, prettier bottle, don’t last too long. Or the scents we wouldn’t normally spray, except it’s March and we can’t take the winter blues ANY longer…ahem…just sayin’. I adore big brash florals year round, so I’ll try not to talk too much about the beauty of tuberose. I don’t want to bore you guys any more. I do reach for them, though, just to be clear. I also love L’artisan’s La Haie Fleurie du Hameau, or La Haie Fleurie as it’s now called, though I believe the juice is the same. This was one of the earlier scents in my perfumed life. I adore this ode to jasmine with the honeysuckle tenacity. It shouldn’t in theory last very long, but it just does. I bought it years ago for the hyacinth note, but it only likes to pop up when I least expect it. This is a soft jasmine with a lush, quietly green undertone. Quite springy if you want something other than, say, La Chasse, which is everywhere right now. (Which is fine by me, by the way). One of my favorite lines ever has to be Annick Goutal. I love the nonconventional juices and the gorgeous attention to detail. I am sorry she passed and I will always remain loyal to her. She really did get me started in perfume obsession. For that I’m grateful. I have only seen pictures of Mme. Goutal, but if her photos are 1/2 as beautiful as she was, she must have been stunning.OK, Ok, I’ll quit gushing. I love Grand Amour with all of my heart. I can truly get the hyacinth here, but it isn’t an obnoxious green scent. Here it is blended beautifully and effortlessly with lily and honeysuckly. It’s a gorgeous spring scent that I wear year round. The body cream is what a body cream should be….rich and decadent/good for the skin and the heart. Petite Cherie has been released in a new bottle and there are some new products to go along with the anniversary of its launch. This is an example of a scent that speaks softly, but carries a big (fabulous) stick. A softly fruity floral that almost mocks the heap of forgettable phrutie phlorals with its beauty. The sillage is stunning. I sprayed it on, left the room and came back and I kid you not, asked who that was. Yeah, I do things like that.Passion is my other favorite, with its tuberose/vanilla/jasmine infusion. This is what I fell in love with back in the day and it is as current now as ever. These are timeless scents that always make me smile. Merci Annick, et Isabelle (Doyen of course).Thanks everyone for thinking of me, and I hope you are all well. Until next week.By the way, I owe a few decants to….Chaya. This is from a drawing from WAY back when. Contact us and I’ll hook you up. I will be late on the comments, but they will come, I promise. I just will be babysitting much of the day. Check back after six…XOXO.
Terrible Fever, Back Next Week
I’m sorry, but due to some sort of bronchial/respiratory/yuckyness I will be missing this week. I do apologize. It’s not like I can smell much anyways. Stay well and I’ll be back next week.
Ten Random Facts about Bryan
Not too long ago Patty did a post about this. I decided to flatter her by stealing copying her idea and sharing some of my own characteristics/flaws/what have you. What does this have to do with all things scented? Who knows, but it’s fun….and I’m sure at least tuberose will show up somewhere.
- Although I am obsessed with Tuberose and all things scented with the absolute, I will also buy unsniffed anything that mentions hyacinth. I adore it almost as much….almost.
- I believe in gay rights AND I am a practicing Catholic. I may vote for Obama, I may vote for McCain. I am a person, not a party.
- I believe Vicky Tiel’s Sirene is the most disgusting perfume ever made. MPG’s Fleur d’iris is a close second. Blech!
- After florals, give me heavy, dirty, sexy musk. I am talking MKK on smack. I want skank and lots of it….although I thought Etat Libre’s Secretions Magnifique was exactly as March described it…a bloody knife. I was soooo disappointed.
- Some of my favorite movies. No order: The Color Purple, Shrek II, Kill Bill (I and II), Finding Nemo, Elizabeth, Anything Shakespeare related, The Devil Wears Prada, Death Becomes Her, Chicken Run, Queen Margot.
- Most cherished perfume: Carnal Flower, duh; Others I absolutely adore and have actually finished bottles: Serge’s Tubereuse Criminelle, Muscs Kublai Khan, Cuir Mauresque; Guerlain Apres L’ondee and Bois d’Armenie; Caron Acasiosa….
- In 9 days I will be two years sober.
- My worst fears: losing my mind, loving cautiously, ignoring God, fire and crowds.
- If I could be anything in the world…perfumer of course. Then a member of the Royal Shakespeare Company, Fashion Designer, Tenor….I can’t sing, I can’t draw….I can obviously dream though, right?
- I love and live for my Big Fat Irish Family….Aaron, my love, is included..duh.
Thanks for letting me share. Next week, I promise to include a picture of myself and something more scent related….and enough about me, I know.
Love in the time of the Sniffles
First, a little explanation. I miss posting, but life is so complicated, right? Not that I am some prolific poster, but I miss it nonetheless. I have the oddest schedule in the world. Who doesn’t? But I don’t want to neglect the commenters. What to do? ”Why not the week-end,” Patty asked…so here we are. So it’s winter. Blah Blah Blah. Where is the fast forward button. Just a bit, mind you. We are so close. And yet. And yet we still have to get to those first blooms. The crocuses, God love ‘em, will be showing up soon enough. Where am I going with all of this? I suppose I should remind all that I detest the winter. Oh gee, what an original sentiment…but honestly, I am that random dude who smells of all things Spring-like in mid-Winter. (Of course I’ve been known to waft incense in July, too, but that’s another post). I complain so much about the winter that I forbid myself to complain about the horrific heat in the Summer. I can’t have it both ways. So I suppose where I’m going is this:What are you reaching for/loving/coveting during this ugly time of year? Guerlain’s latest to hit the States have been knockouts. Thanks to Jason at Bergdorfs (and thanks to Patty and March for the heads up after their return). Cruel Gardenia is anything but cruel. (Is it me or have any of the scents in the L’art et la Matiere line been named correctly? Rose Barbare was anything but barbaric. Was there Cuir in Cuir Beluga?…ahem) The Gardenia, though is so polished and so, well, beautiful that I’m thinking I better get a second bottle so I have some left for Spring proper. The Gardenia peaks out amongst the shrubbery only long enough to tease before slipping back into the greenery and allowing her sisters (the young buds on the breeze) to tickle the nose. I find it lasts and lasts without being bothersome….as some gardenias are a bit insistent.What the bleep is a Purple Fantasy? It doesn’t matter, I promise. If it’s floral you seek, this is the stuff of, wait for it, fantasies. A sweet floral that brings a smile to my face every time I spray….and in the gorgeous Parisienne Bee bottle. That horrific name needed a gaudy bottle before, I suppose, to go with the silly moniker. All is forgiven, though, as I am transported out of Winter and into a garden, complete with an erotic undertone. Gotta love Guerlain. I promise to return soon. Look for me on Sundays. I can’t start my day without reading the blogs. The Posse, Marina, Robin, Tom, Kevin, Victoria, Ina, Katie, et al….thanks for getting me through the winter.
The Hunt
I’m always hesitant to post and I don’t know why. Everyone in the blogosphere, with the odd exception…ahem, is unbelievably kind, overlooking the occasional misspelled word, or stupid rant. And yet I hesitate. I hereby commend my latest few rants/reviews to all who would feign interest.
I have titled this, “the hunt,” because I want to reach out here. How many of us are after that perfect tuberose (or leather, or violet) and we truly know, I mean absolutely KNOW that it isn’t even the notion of finding the holy grail, but the quest for the ultimate perfume that enthralls? I confess I have obsessed about the new Diors (the “particulieres”) since I first saw mention on Now Smell This. I have no idea what they will smell like, but I have the collection on the way as soon as they hit the boutiques. Yes, I adore Galliano and all he has done for the magnificent house. But do I truly have any idea what his art will manifest in his scented world?….I know he is a mere collaborator, but I’m sure he was involved heavily in their creation. I saw “tuberose”, “exclusive” and “Dior” and that was all she wrote. Please, anyone out there relate?? What’s a hunter to do?
On to some raves and randoms. I have a fabulous new friend at the Prada Beverly Hills boutique and I’m going to shamelessly plug him. His name is Joa and he has been nothing but kind and generous with his time/attention. I live in the middle of the freakin’ midwest and of course have to do much shopping over the internet and phone. This gentleman has emailed pictures and spent so much time on the phone with me describing everything from jackets to, you guessed it, the single note scents. I must tell you the new ones (Myrrhe, Opoponex, and benjoin) will be mine as soon as they too hit the store! The Oeillet, et al (referred to as numbers 1-7) are magnificently minimalist and gorgeous. I have been layering the tubereuse and the narcisse with the iris for quite some time and have never failed to at least garner a “what are you wearing??!! from someone.
I have enjoyed Angel since it’s debut. I can appreciate the power of the scent/packaging/advertising. I don’t share Luca’s seeming obsession with the chemicals involved, but what do I know. I’ll tell you. The newest incarnation is “La part des Anges.” Everone knows this of course. The jus is drop dead gorgeous. Much more woodsy and rich, but not too sweet. I would buy more if I hadn’t already promised my bank account to Dior.
How about I send a fabulous little something (I promise it will go out right away!!) to a random two people. It will be a combination of the few things mentioned. I’ll tack on the winners’ names to one of my fabulous blogmates’ post…..Happy Thanksgiving and God Bless you and yours.
Autumn Blues
I confess that I detest Fall. I mean come on…the trees are turning beautiful hues of red (my favorite color) only because they are starving themselves in preparation for frigid Winter. Lovely. The chill in the air that so many of my neighbors praise is only a taste of what is really to come…bone-chilling temperatures and brown slush. Bitter, bitter cold and a desperate longing to be somewhere warm.
OK, I’m done bitc…complaining. I don’t even allow myself to moan about the ridiculously high temperatures Kansas City reaches in the Summer, simply because I do so much ranting and whining from about January through March.
That brings me (finally, I know) to my subject….scents that have a knack for pulling me out of my Autumn depression. I confess to a love of the Florientals. Fall and Winter are perfect seasons to get away with overspraying the heavy hitters….something I am completely guilty of (yes I’m ending with a preposition here).
Has everyone tried Belle en Rykiel? I’m infatuated with this beauty. I got my first fix last Spring while in Paris and opted not to bring home a bottle because I was sure there would be plenty here…well we finally got it stateside. Yes lavender and incense has been done (to perfection) by Serge. This is a different take though. A true floriental with a comfort factor. I think the bottle is cute too, and I’m so not a bottle person….usually….which brings me to Guerlain’s beauty Quand vient la pluie. I bought the eau de parfum unsniffed because I just can’t say no to a new Guerlain….I don’t know why, I just can’t. I love it, but now I have to have the parfum (going in on a split with that sucker). I get Apres L’ondee meets L’heure bleue (I think March was here too) and some more heliotrope. I am a sucker for powdery too and it is all over this one baby. This I’ll be keeping by my bed this winter in case I just can’t get out of it.
Nothing but nothing brings a smile to my face (scent-wise of course) like tuberose. I just had to mention my beloved because I find it missing in the new releases. By Kilian, which should be hitting Bergdorf’s soon, has one called Beyond Love which mentions tuberose and I will try desperately not to buy it unsniffed. I promise nothing.
Winters are always difficult. My depression seems to kick into overdrive around January…not a seasonal affect thing, just plain depression and a hatred for cold months. A wicked combination. For this reason (in addition to like ten thousand others) I adore perfume so much. A majestic hit of tuberose and I’m smiling through the mysterious pain. God bless the perfumer.
A few others on my recent rotation include Caron Acasiosa (a lovely skanky jasmine that smells simply dark); Caron Poivre which Patty has written plenty on, go girl and thanks for the heads up on this one; Nina Ricci Fille d’Eve (again, which Patty hooked me up with) which is the most beautiful fruity chypre EVER. If you haven’t sprayed this deceptively “fruity” scent it will knock your fig leaf off; Sarassins (gorgeous jasmine, ’nuff said).
Thanks for letting me chatter on. I’m off to to spritz a little of the N. 5 premiere on my sheets before bed…try it, it’s fantastic. On a side note, Dusan asked where my picture is…I promise I’ll post one next time…I have none…none..on this computer….my gifts do not live anywhere near the technical neighborhood.
Tuberose and other obsessions
I haven’t posted in a while for no other reason than I tend to be shy. I try not to compete with Patty, March or Lee but let’s face it, I don’t have their wit nor their devoted following, so I would be an idiot to try. I honestly wonder why anyone cares what I think about fragrance. I can only offer the fact that I have been collecting for almost two decades and I research the hell out of anything I love. I truly adore scent and I am honored that the Posse includes me.
OK, so here are a few of my favorite things. I am not talking about top ten or the like. That is for later. Here are a few of the fragrances that I reach for over and over again.
It is no secret that tuberose enthralls me. I find myself intoxicated by its beauty. This is where I begin.
Prada Tubereuse: This is part of the boutique exclusives which I believe are all single notes ranging from Iris to the aforementioned. I find its beauty lies in the pungency. Here we have a tuberose that isn’t trying too hard. Much like Ms. Prada’s pret-a-porter (of which I also cannot get enough) it is beautiful in its simplicity. This is a tuberose that stands in her vase, metaphorical hands on hips, smug smile…whispers, “what do you want from me?”
Annick Goutal Tubereuse: I have loved this soliflore since it was available stateside. I purchase this by the gross from the lovely ladies at the Rue Castiglione boutique. I highly recommend them as they are sweet and efficient and generous. OK, this is a heady pure tuberose. I spray my self, my sheets, my hair, my childhood blankie that I still sleep with (shut up). This is what fields of tuberose smell like from miles away. I believe that if God opened up the Gates of Heaven and allowed a few breazes our way before closing them (for now) this scent would move through me, over me. I smell tuberose and I confirm God’s existence.
Carnal Flower: I’ve said enough. Go buy it. You won’t be sorry.
Bruno Bleu: A perfume oil. I don’t usually go for oils. The flowery prose at Luckyscent sucked me in. I bought unsniffed and I just couldn’t help myself. I do love it, but why the hell is it blue?? OK, it is a beauty….very creamy and unapologetic. Not a “rocket science” kind of perfume, but who cares, it has tuberose. Seriously though, it is lovely, if not linear. A bit salty in its warmth. Sexy.
Creed Tubereuse Indiana: I keep it around, but I find it a bit off. I think that the tuberose and ambergris fight a bit for attention. The fight continues without any clear winner, so the whole composition, well, fails. I find it amusing, though. Not enough tuberose for me. I think I have a problem.
I do love tuberose, but I by no means discriminate….too much. Here are a few of my other recent infatuations.
Guerlain Bois d’Armenie: This is beauty divine. This is incense at its most breathtaking. The sweet resiny warmth is achingly gorgeous. I feel as though I’m applying for a position at Luckyscent. I adore it.
Vintage Lanvin RumeurThank you Patty! I find the initial blast, well, vintagey. I wait two minutes and there she is. The fog has lifted and she’s standing in vintage Balanciaga. Pale, with red accents on. Glamorous and gorgeous without boring me with her age. I think she is just as relevant today….think Gesquiere for Balenciaga….timeless with a nod to the past glory. I don’t know what is in this juice but I feel so chic wearing it. I will be trying the other vintage Lanvins soon….like tomorrow if the postman hurries.
And now I must eat a few words. I reviewed Ether de Lilas and simply denounced it. I was warned by Patty (probably twice) that it must be sprayed. So I sprayed. I swooned. I purchased. I love it in this heat. Kansas City is brutal in its extremes. Arctic air in winter, the freakin’ Chergui in summer. I am not kidding… Patty I ‘m sooo sorry. I won’t question the spray thing ever again. I’m a sucker for limited editions too.
So, there you have it. A very brief look at my loves. I do apologize for the lack of eloquence. I tried to be as down to earth as I could be when writing about this beautiful form of art. I also could write pages on others, from Tubereuse Criminelle (I’m on my third bottle) to Muscs Koublai Kahn (bottle three as well). For fun, how about a giveaway. A partial bottle of one of my loves…how about Do Son or something? Just mention you are interested and I’ll randomly draw.
Got Wood?
Before I actually review a few things I would like to take this opportunity to apologize for my absence. Life happens as they say and an emergency never schedules an appointment. Having said that, thank you Patty, Lee and March for your unending kindness and patience. I must say I love Patty dearly and I feel like I let everyone down a bit. I can not apologize enough.
OK, on to the reviews. I know the title of this post is a bit “Etat”ish, but I was called G-wood(last name Garwood) way too much during High School. Childish I know. What can I say?
There is a magical forrest somewhere, I just know it. Perhaps it exists only in my dreams, my imagination, which is aided constantly by such Masters as Shakespeare and the infamous Romantics. It manifests when I close my eyes. Thanks to Serge Lutens (and Chris the Magnificent) I can smell it now too.
Chene. Say it out loud. It just oozes elegance. Not the same in Germanic English, huh? Oak. Ok, I digress. Notes are: oak-bark tannin, cedarwood crystals, birch, immortelle flowers, wood saps, Tonka bean, rum absolute, black thyme, and beeswax. No wonder it took me so long to fall in love with, or even find this beauty…tuberose is not listed. OK, I admit it, I adore Tuberose in all its glory and a day without it is, well, one not worth smelling…for me…but I digress again. (I do that, sorry).
I spray on Chene and imagine Ophelia (think Millais, Tate Britain) floating so morbidly yet beautifully next to a tall oak. Perhaps her loss of identity hasn’t so much pushed her over the edge (pun intended) as the intoxicating scents surrounding her soon to be watery grave. It’s a thought. I never imagined how beautiful and complex a scent based on oak could be. This is a scent built upon layers of rich accords, touched by melancholia. I could fall in love with Chris Sheldrake thanks to this magnificent juice.
There’s chene, that’s for remembrance.
Santal de Mysore is another beautiful story. Desdemona’s wedding sheets smell of this powdery, yes I’ll say it, sexy wood. I know Othello could have worn this too, but I imagine the scent lingering on the bed, their marriage pre-Iago and blissful. This is a woodsy scent for happy days, with a hint of darkness undercutting the romance. Notes of Mysore Sandalwood, cumin, spices, styrax, balsam, caramelized Siamese benzoin. The scent of sweaty skin is pronounced on me, which I believe is thanks to cumin, though it is understated enough here, in case you fear the reformulated Femme de Rochas. As the scent lingers, the resins sweep in and begin to smother the santal, though not in a fit of jealous rage.
These two Lutens woods are beautiful on either a man or woman. I chose to visualize two famous albeit fictitious women only because I love them as I do the scents. Both of these are Paris exclusives worth seeking out.
I planned on reviewing Mayotte (a luscious Ylang/Tuberose from Guerlain). I am running out of space (and probably your patience), so another time….it’s beautiful, I promise. (The perfume more so than my review no doubt!).
Masterpiece
This is from Patty — I’d like to introduce you all to Bryan. He’s a great perfume collector, has great taste in scents, and March and I thought we’d like to have some male perspective on the blog from time to time. Please make him feel welcome!
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What is a masterpiece? I haven’t the inclination here to dive into the abstract. Suffice it to say, we know what they are when we see them, and most certainly when we smell them. Guerlain’s Shalimar, Caron’s Tabac Blonde, Lanvin’s Arpege. Further, we can justify their existence without actually enjoying them personally. Angel is an easy example, or even the classic Rochas scents which I won’t name for fear of the comments. They are masterpieces though, and I would be a fool to call them anything else.Frederic Malle, or more specifically, Dominque Ropion’s Tubereuse Oeuvre is a formidable runner for the same title. I fell in love with this scent the moment the molecules hit the air…right before landing on my arm. One might say I took a trip through the looking glass and I have no intention of coming back.Some say it is a chilly, florist’s scent. Others, a dreamy tuberose concoction full of sexual inuendo and the like. It is more than that, though certainly the aforementioned are anything but misleading. This is not Fracas’ sibling, nor is it the magnificent Tubereuse Criminelle’s long lost cousin. This is, quite simply, Mr. Ropion’s ode to the blossom which no doubt God created to remind us who’s Boss.
No human can come up with a molecule so complex as to both calm and excite the senses. We ought not even try…just enjoy.
Carnal Flower thus opens with a verdant fresh luminosity. The tuberose is there, hinting at what is behind the curtain. This note, this magnificent note, waits, eager for the proper entrance. We thankfully do not have to wait too long before, graced with an entourage befitting royalty, she is PRESENT. Jasmine and Coconut whisper behind her back. Not viciously, mind you, and they do not call attention to themselves (Mr. Ropion, as a true artist recognizes, knows when too much would have been just that). This tuberose graces us with her presence, demanding full attention, until she tires of us (not vice-versa). (Though technically I suppose we could assassinate her with a little Tide, but am I going too far here?)
The drydown is simply breathtaking, with the beautiful flower never taking a bow too soon; and the topnotes help in maintaining the “unisex” theme. I personally am in Luca Turin’s and Chandler Burr’s camp, that there is no such thing as a man’s or woman’s scent. I wear what I want without the help of advertising executives. On a man, this is a deep fresh scent. On a woman, a floral to end all others.
Carnal Flower is truly one of the most mesmerizing scents to come along in years. It is a scent that captures the true beauty of one of natures most beguiling flowers. Tuberose does not like to share. Mr. Ropion clearly knew the ins and outs of this tempestuous botanical.
Say what you like about this flower, this scent; for it is in fact a masterpiece.








