L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore

I was sure – so very sure – that I would love Eau Duelle.  It had everything going for it, including Diptyque and the notes listed.  And yet I didn’t love it.  I wasn’t going to bother with L’Artisan Coeur de Vétiver Sacré because it’s … vetiver, right?  Then I found out it wasn’t really vetiver and my interest increased (while everyone else’s diminished.  I’m anticipating lots of bottles up for swap).

In the meantime I was going to punt L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore entirely, because I was sure I’d loathe it.  Bertrand Duchaufour and I have a … murky relationship, as exemplified by Timbuktu and his Eau d’Italie oeuvre, although I loved Nuit de Tubéreuse.  But a fragrance embracing the gaggingly sweet confection of Turkish delight, as Bosphore is supposed to? That dampened my ardor right quick. Notes are apple, pomegranate, tulip, iris, leather, saffron, Turkish delight accord (rose, lemon, pistachio), vanilla, musks.

I threw it into the order cart anyway.  Then, one night, after I’d tried everything else … I glared at it awhile and then put some on.

Can we rewind for a second and shift our eyes up a few lines and look at that notes list again?  Apple, pomegranate, Turkish delight accord, vanilla?  Doesn’t that sound like instructions for a mulled alcoholic drink you’re going to be very sorry you consumed?  I kept imagining those notes floating on top of the Duchaufour old-vase-water miasma, and the thought was not encouraging.  But I like to suffer for my art, and now you are asking yourself, for the love of Pete, would you get to the point? Okay, I will.

The most striking thing initially is the transparency of the scent – anyone expecting a Serge-style riff on rahat loukoum is in for a surprise.  How you manage to add light, heat and lift to those top notes is beyond me, but I guess that’s why BD’s the man, right?  It’s sweet but not cloying, smooth but not dense, dry rather than powdery.  I sat there for five minutes, nose glued to my wrist (no doubt with a look of shock on my face).  The sweetness is joined to a slightly bitter leather note.  And there it stays, transparently sweet and faintly bitter, rose against saffron, fruit against leather, until it fades slowly away a few hours later.

I tried it on against Cuir de Lancome, really the only thing I could think of that it reminds me of.  Of course, side by side they seem far more different than similar.  Cuir’s definitely more powdery – it smells like the inside of a ladies’ leather handbag with some expensive cosmetics.  Bosphore’s a step in the gourmand direction without being “foody,” and fruit-ish without being fruit-y. Cuir is also one unified smell while Bosphore maintains two tracks – that bitter leather note versus the delicate sweetness of the apple-tobacco-loukoum.  And it is delicate – diaphanous, one of those scents that seems to radiate from the skin rather than sit on top of it.  Next to Bosphore, Cuir de Lancome is almost raucous.

I’ve already spoken with a few people who find it too tepid — too vague or doughy or evanescent.  Me?  I’m enchanted.

image of Turkish delight: loukoummania.com

  • nozknoz says:

    Haven’t finished testing this one – I want to really do the three-day neo-signature scent challenge with it before I make up my mind – but I think I may be going to love it. There was a bit of an initial shock as I was hoping for something smokier (apple shisha), and it is sweeter than I usually like, but the combination of the apple and leather is kind of fascinating. I also think I will like in cold weather more than warm.

    • March says:

      I like it in cold weather too, although Masha up there presents a good argument for warmer weather. Of course her cold and my cold are different. That apple-leather is interesting, isn’t it?

  • Shelley says:

    Erm…um….vanilla embedded in sweetness. It may be because It was a day of sniff age, but by the time dry down was well underway, I was beyond meh. You know that move certain mothers threaten with, when they grab an ear and don’t inflict pain…YET, but you’d better pay attention or the grip will become vise-like? I kept my hand at a fair distance. I really, really want your experience. I am a fan of the Cuir, as you know, so maybe I’ll try my sample again soon.

    Truth be told, I nearly gave it away right there, except I realized I could include it in one of my swaps. ;)

  • smooth but not dense, sweet but not cloying sounds good to me.

  • marina says:

    The list of notes sounds horrifying, but I know that BD must have done something very different, something BD-rish :) with them, so, I might be willing to risk trying this :)

  • Flora says:

    I think this one might really work for me. Loved Havana Vanille, liked NdeT, but did not fall in love; it’s no Carnal Flower.

    I do like loukhoum-related aromas but not the super-saturated sugary kind (is there any other?)so this new one is a must-try for me. Never tried Rahat Loukhoum and I really must one of these days. The Keiko Mecheri one is nice but just too much for me although I did enjoy the “Soir” version of it.

    • March says:

      The KM was too diffuse and powdery on me. I’d love to parse what some of us perceive as “powder.” Shudder.

      Carnal Flower is the queen. ^:)^

      • Flora says:

        March, in that case I would strongly suggest that you not ever smell the “Poudre” version of the KM Loukhoum. Powderphobes are created that way, if they were not already so inclined.

        The only tuberose perfume I have ever smelled that came close to Carnal Flower is something that was discontinued long ago, so yes, she is the Queen!

  • Francesca says:

    I can’t believe I forgot to check in today til just now! I have a sample of Traversée that I’ve been meaning to check out. Thanks for the reminder.

  • DinaC says:

    I’m eager to try this, March, ’cause I actually visited Istanbul back in 1974 when I was nine. We had just moved to Turkey; my dad was in the US Air Force. I’m a fan of light, transparent scents, so I’m hopeful that I’ll like this. I liked the NdT and ended up wearing it several times this summer, so maybe BD’s style is one I can become a fan of. I like Timbuktu, too.

    I still want to sample the Coeur de Vetiver Sacre, too. Haven’t done much sniffing this fall. I need to get out more! :-) Today I’m wearing some ol’ Grey Flannel, which I love. It was one of my dad’s scents, so it holds great memories.

    • March says:

      Aw! Grey Flannel. My dad wore that too, although he’s mostly an Old Spice man… I’ll do a mini-review of Vetiver Sacre on Wed, along with some other things.

  • jen says:

    Sounds like a pass for me – but I love reading this site. Its my go to in the mornings also with a large mug of tea. I am so excited to dig into my swap goodies too, and I sent out hats today!

    • March says:

      My swap boxes have been rolling in! I swore up and down to the Big Cheese they were swaps and not purchases! Which is … mostly true.

      • Ann N. says:

        Hi March, LOL at the Big Cheese comment! Same thing here at my house. Hubby arched an eyebrow at me when he saw the mail and I held up my hands and said, “Perfume swaps — honest!!”
        P.S. Thanks, am loving my goodie from you!

  • FragrantWitch says:

    Hmmm… I may have to test this one out. I was afraid of the sweetness as my skin amps sweet like a mad thing and I wind up queasy whilst simultaneously making people around me think of heading for a bakery! But transparent and ethereal spun-sugar sort of sweetness with woods sounds quite good. Thanks for the review, March. Btw, you are genius- my swaps have arrived and I am a gorgeous-smelling happy bunny! :-)

    • March says:

      I had so much fun with those swaps, I’ll mention on Wed and set a date for a discussion, okay?

      This isn’t too sweet on me, so it might be worth checking out.

  • Illdone says:

    Can I very humbly go of topic a bit (ok, a lot) an ask if anyone knows if there are any interesting perfume shops (or the likes of it) to see or visit in Kôln, Germany? My husband is kidnapping me this weekend -he told me this morning- for a three day stay in Cologne and the internet doesn’t seem to make me any wiser, besides the obvious 4711 place no mention of anything! Please don’t make me visit christmas-fairs for 3 long days. Any suggestions are very welcome!

  • florentina says:

    Thanks for the inspiration…. again!
    I wore some of my sample to bed last night… tart apples and lingering powdery sugar finish…I’ve never tasted rahat loukoum and looked up recipes last night… I want to try to make some for Christmas! Hoping it tastes as good as it smells…:)

    • March says:

      Uh, I am sure there are loads of Turkish Delight lovers on here, but I am not wild for it. (it’s a textural problem). But it does smell divine. And I’d think it’s not that hard to make, and it’s certainly easy to buy online if that fails.

  • maidenbliss says:

    March, you’re breath of scented air, early in the morning. Your descriptions are the best!
    ‘Cuir’s definitely more powdery – it smells like the inside of a ladies’ leather handbag with some expensive cosmetics’. That makes me want to rummage through my old purses.
    The foodie comments here are making me want some hot cocoa (blizzard here) with Peppermint Schnappes and whipped cream. TdB sounds like something I’d want to smell on someone else…on a long not-so-bumpy airplane flight.

    • March says:

      I love Cuir so much I can’t even say. It’s one of those fragrances I forget about, then put on and think, why don’t I wear this every day? So comforting it would go with your blizzard!

      • Olfacta says:

        Me too. I put on TdB and thought, “candy” — original, huh? And then I liked it. Then didn’t like it. Then did. Luckily I ordered two samples. I’d love to A/B (sniff alternately) it with Cuir…which I’ll do as soon as my sinuses clear up, thanks for the idea!

  • karin says:

    I am beginning to think I don’t like vanilla. I always thought I did. But after SDV and Havana Vanille and Noire du Mexique and countless others…then Eau Duelle…it’s becoming more clear that vanilla just isn’t my thing! I have to say, I’m shocked! I mean, who doesn’t like vanilla!? Apparently, ME!!!

    As to TdB – I love it! Great word – enchanted. It’s interesting. A good comfort scent, IMO!

    • DinaC says:

      I’ll join you over in the Not Liking Vanilla corner, Karin, and keep you company. ‘kay? :-)

    • March says:

      Well, come back on the Oddball Vanilla post and mock us. I like making bold, unsubstantiated statements, so I’m going to posit that There Is A Vanilla For Everyone, even if that vanilla is Shalimar. If there’s a rose for me, dahlink, there’s a vanilla for you.

      It is a good comfort scent! Got a decant coming…

      • DJ says:

        I like vanilla on other people. Have not found one that smells good on me. Will be looking out for that vanilla post ;)

        • March says:

          I spent two years mocking people and their stupid vanilla obsessions, and then >:) visited and made me like a couple of them, just to shame me.

      • Musette says:

        um…what is the @};- for you?

        😕

        xo >-)

        • March says:

          Ta’if. And the rose (is it Malle or Serge?) that smells like buttcrack. Oh, and the old TDC rose (that smelled like buttcrack but doesn’t any more.) And the Rosine that smells like a Guerlain — Rose Pour Homme or de Homme…

      • karin says:

        It definitely ISN’T Shalimar for me!

  • Victoria says:

    It was definitely a love at first sniff for me. The sweetness is balanced so beautifully against the woods! It really grabbed me right away.

  • Style Spy says:

    Based on the notes, which also indicate sweet candy nightmare, I should have loathed Kiss Me Tender and instead I fell in love. So I s’pose I should give this a snort as well. NdT was a big disappointment for me – I’m still working on the sample, but so far it has not exactly grabbed me by the ass and shaken me around the room. Tubey Whore that I am (now THERE’S a t-shirt), it’s not… man-eating enough to suit me.

    • March says:

      NdT is NOT an ass-grabber. I feel you. So to speak. Erm, moving on, you have lots of other choices, at least. I’ve really come around to that Kilian one, although Carnal Flower owns my heart. And you probably love Tubereuse Criminy with Uncle Serge’s special sauce.

      • Masha says:

        Oh no! I read your first sentence “NdT is not an ass-grabber,” and I remembered that beautiful, romantic piece Denyse B wrote about the bride who wore NdT!You put some funny imagery in my head, March!

  • Sariah says:

    I love your description of “the Duchaufour old-vase-water miasma”. I never could get into Timbuktu, try as I might, the inspiration really appeals to me.

    Your description of Bosphore makes me think it’s a less sweet cousin of the Nazgul…which I love…will have to try it. Thanks for the review.

    • March says:

      That Nazgul!!! Quick, where’s my silver bullets? My stake? ::makes sign of the cross:: DEFINITELY less cloying than the Nazgul.

      If I ever meet Bertrand, I hope he has no idea who the hell I am.

  • Louise says:

    My tiny sniffage of the Traversee was lost among several other trials, but what I thought I was maybe smelling was quite pleasant, with no unpleasantness as others have reported. Not earth-shaking, but light and wearable.

    Will have to give it a real go, all by itself.

    • Louise says:

      oy, repetitive reiteration!

    • March says:

      It lasted forever, in its own quiet way… but there was a lot going on!

      Guess who smells like a skanky cumin ho right now? 8-|

      • Masha says:

        Women who love cumin, shout real loud! I love my new vintage Femme, which isn’t cumin, but very very similar in effect.

        • March says:

          Wait .. vintage Femme? I don’t get cumin, but skank for sure. I’m blogging on this cumin on Wed., be sure to show up so I have one commenter. :d

          • Shelley says:

            I do. Hence it became a gift to one who knew how to love it. :)

          • sweetlife says:

            I bet I know what that cuminy thing is that you’re wearing. I almost dropped my sample in the mail to you. Right after it said CUMIN!!!! It said, “SEND ME TO MARCH.” Look forward to seeing if I’m right!

          • March says:

            SEND IT TO MARCH. If it’s saying Cumin Cumin COOOOOMIN it’s for me.

          • Musette says:

            oh, hush. You know I’ll be there. There is no cumin in vintage Femme – at least not to me – YMMV – but! the NEW Femme is almost pornographic, imo. I will bore your toenails off tomorrow about what happened to me with contemp Femme and a meeting……

            …that way March will have TWO commenters.

            xo >-)

          • March says:

            Weird, tho — Weezy has a “vintage” Femme from the 80s? (pre-reformulation) that smells just between old and new. Smells like the vintage, but … with cumin!

  • Musette says:

    We (the tiny Saturday crew which, nonetheless, managed to suck up all the air in the cosmetics section – or maybe that was just me////:) ) anyway, WE all tried it and I was hoping for your revelation, March. Instead I got b-( reinforcing the notion that anything even remotely sweet just ooks an >-) out!

    OTOH I fell hard for Fleur de Cassie body butter. Unlike the perfume, the BB amps up the fleeting leather note. I got no leather in TdBosph at. all. But now I want to try it again, see if it’s there for me…

    xoxoxo >-)

    • karin says:

      Hey M! There should be some TdB in the package, so…when you get rid of that nasty sinus infection…(oh, so sorry you have a sinus infection! A perfumista’s worst enemy)! Hope it disappears quickly!!!

      • Musette says:

        oooh! yay! I’m hoping that this stupid thing does away quickly – lots of steam inhalation to push it along and OUT!

        thanks! I’m sooo excited to try all my new, fun swaps!

        xoxoxo >-)

  • Ann N. says:

    Hi Donanicola, thanks so much for asking about the solid compacts. I really appreciate it.

  • donanicola says:

    Sometimes, just sometimes, a cube of squishy soft rose and pistachio turkish delight is just the thing. I am so looking forward to trying this but not sure if it’s reached the UK yet. It was’t in Libs last week. btw, I asked about the possibility of refilling the solid compacts of Eau Duelle but they said no. :(

  • Sherri M. says:

    I’m on the same page with everyone else. TdB is likeable, well-composed, pretty and easy to wear. I just haven’t fallen in love with it, and have so many beautiful perfumes, I’d rather wear those I love. Ah, the challenges of Bertrand Duchaufour et al; we are such a tough audience! :-)

    • March says:

      I wonder if people who like some of his other scents, his Timbuktu-type deals, find this insipid or uninteresting? And it’s true, it’s easy to wear rather than a show-stopper. Sometimes that’s just what’s called for. :)>-

  • Robin says:

    I do wonder if Timbuktu will get you eventually, as it did me. Old vase water has a way of sneaking up on you.

  • Ann N. says:

    Hey March, great review, as usual. Once again, you had me howling through my morning tea, for the love of Pete! I’m right there with you on this one; it’s surprisingly pretty, and yes, even enchanting. We’ll be happy to take any unwanted samples of this, won’t we?

    • March says:

      I do picture you all out there on the other end sometimes, thinking, jm&j, so how WAS the damn thing already? :-w And yes, lots of homes available for unwanted samples.

  • Melissa says:

    I’ve been whining about my disinterest in a number of recent launches on another forum recently. Unfortunately, TdB is among them. I appreciate it, but I can’t muster up any enthusiasm. Something about the rosy/nutty Turkish delight, the musky note, the touch of powder (I do get a bit) and maybe the fruitiness give it a weird-ish sweetness. I happily wear a number of gourmands, so maybe I prefer typical stick-to-your-skin sweet.

    • March says:

      TdB is a funny one for sure, and you are hardly alone in your feelings. I find it very comforting and surprisingly unsweet, which makes it feel unusual. Then again, interesting comfort things like Bois Farine and Malle Hiver are hopeless on me.

  • Suzy Q says:

    March, the same thing happened to me! Your descriptions are perfect. I generally don’t like fruit, food or leather. And yet here they are, gorgeous. It’s the transparency and balance of contrasts that make it work. BD is like a god to me: Amaranthine, NdT (I’ve got the big bottle) and now TdB.

    • March says:

      It sounds like you’re having a good run with these! NdT I wore and wore and wore, using up most of my large decant. I’m glad you liked this as well.

  • Illdone says:

    I wore it twice (sample I got) and thought it was very well done, nice and sweet,lots of sugary iris-water to my nose. Translate ; boring ,easy to forget? A safe option when you want something inobtrusive and easy-going. Got enough well-composed sweeties in my closet allready. NdT and CoeurdVS on the other hand totally did me in a few month’s ago (got FB’s of those!)

    • March says:

      So you liked the vetiver? I’ve read a number of people unhappy with it, which I suppose would make sense if you wanted Vetiver. Although the drydown’s pretty vetivery on me.

  • Tamara*J says:

    March I’m wearing it tonight girl! My bedtime SOTE.
    It’s delightful and dusted with powdered sugar. The notes will make doubters wary but it really is a light thing but tenacious, I forget about it but then catch a lil’ whiff.
    I love that you cannot overdo it. L’Artisan at it’s best.

    I’ll end this by adding that tonight after my bath I was tidying up the living room and Juju (13) was sitting on the couch doing her homework.
    I walked by her…”Mama? Come back here, what are you wearing?”
    I came back to her and told her while she inhaled my neck..
    “Do you like it?”
    I was curious and always love their opinions good or bad.
    “You smell gooood!” she said with a pleased smile.

    Is it a surprise I want a FB? ;)

    • Sherri M. says:

      Tamara,

      My (very particular) teens liked this one, too! This one appeals to several generations, and would make a great gift for my daughters were it not for the price–$115 for a perfume cuts too much into my teens’ Christmas budgets, unless they ask for it specifically.

    • March says:

      Isn’t it nice when the kiddos don’t make a face? I too feel especially happy when they like something. Of course the hilarity over here is they sniff and go, “… no, not that one … no, not that …. not that …. yes, THAT one!”

  • dinazad says:

    Now I definitely need to try it – I wanted to anyway, because the name reminds me of a rather adventurous search for the copy of a royal Osman pleasure boat which was supposed to row tourists around the Bosphorus (the excursion was meant to be a birthday surprise for a friend). We did find it in the end. It rowed us around the Golden Horn, though, and we were obviously the only people interested, so we had the whole boat to ourselves. More rowers than passengers. It was lovely – everything was a bit fuzzy and pastel-colored in the evening light, like old porcelain, and then the call for prayer echoed over the water. I HOPE Traversée will be the olfactory equivalent, once I try it!

    • March says:

      Wow, that sounds like a wonderful trip. And I too hope that TdB brings some of that back to you! A bit fuzzy and pastel-colored sounds about right.

  • Masha says:

    I really can’t wear the usual lokum fragrances, they are sweet and cloying on me. And I’m not a big leather fan, either. So TdB works very well for me, an ethereal leather gourmand!

    • March says:

      So it works for you too, nice to know. Definitely not the universal love for this one. I find it very interesting though, along with the Vetiver.

      • Masha says:

        I think one of the reasons it may not be zooming along is that they released it in the wrong season. It works so much better in warm weather, to my mind. It just doesn’t say “winter” to me at all, but it’s gorgeous on a warm, sunny day.

        • March says:

          REally? Not being argumentative … it seems perfect right now in the cold, to me, a snuggly winter scent? Not that I won’t try it in summer.

          • Masha says:

            I go for spicier, skankier scents in winter, with heavy basenotes because it’s so darned cold in the Alps! TdB is just too ethereal to fight back the icy chill.

  • vinery says:

    I find this very much like black forest cake–sugared cherries and chocolate. Way too foody for me, but I can imagine others might like it a lot.

    • March says:

      Have you tried Serge Lutens Louve? I like to put it on for kicks sometime. It is, to me, essentially cherry syrup with some more sugar on top. 🙂

  • tmp00 says:

    I liked this. In a “this is pleasant” sort of way. As in a “if I was stuck on a long plane ride next to someone wafting it I’d be a happy camper” way. Just not in a “I need to spend my cable, cell phone, gas and electric bill to own you” kind of way.

    I really prefer the full-on man-candy of Rahat Loukoum. I’m sure you’re shocked at the revelation… :d

    Since it’s rainy and chilly here I might just trot out the Rahat for the office tomorrow!

    • Masha says:

      That’s funny, because I did wear it on a long, and scary, plane ride, and it was very cheering, yet not overwhelming to the other passengers. Of course, they were too busy screaming as our airplane tossed around in the turbulence to notice what I was wearing!

    • March says:

      Ya know … I would not be at all surprised to discover I liked Rahat now. I tried to sample this weekend but think it must be nonexport? The SA looked at me in bafflement. So, I’ll order some up…

  • Amy K says:

    I’ve been in a state of sampling ennui for six months or so, but your description might have just motivated me to place a sample order. The idea of a transparent loukhoum scent sounds great. I love Montale’s Sweet Oriental Dream, but it’s kind of the opposite of transparent.

    • March says:

      The transparency appeals to me, but YMMV, as demonstrated in comments. It’s much more delicate than KM Loukoum, and/but I don’t have a sample of the Serge to compare it to. Also less sweet and dense (to my nose) than the Montale.

      • Amy K says:

        Rahat Loukhoum was one of the first niche fragrances I tried when I was getting interested in perfume, and my reaction was, “Why would anyone want to smell like cherry cough syrup?” Louve was the same when I smelled it years later. Maybe I should give RL another chance. I do like KM Loukhoum and its spinoffs quite a bit, but they always get a “Did you pour on a ton of baby powder?” from my husband.

        • March says:

          I’m getting some RL. I may as well confess right here that I tried on my manufacturers sample of Louve, just to see if I could trigger a migraine, and I … kind of liked it. To me, Louve is the ultimate cherry cough syrup. The SA told me (with some disgust) that it’s quite popular, which seemed true given the 3/4 empty bottle.

  • Catherine says:

    I loved SL’s RL ONCE. For a split second–the one when I was crazy ( I swear there was only the one). Are you saying this is different in the sense that it won’t turn sweet on my turns-everything-sweet skin? Because if so, maybe I’ll try it. Maybe. :)

    • March says:

      Oh, not promising you that! Only that it’s less sweet than Rahat. Which I want to try again but (oops) forgot I think it’s in the nonexport line so will have to reorder a sample, having given mine away long ago in disgust.

  • violetnoir says:

    Seems like a lot of people have been raving about this, but I still can’t quite get there. However, the jury is still out, so I need to test it again.

    On the other hand, I love Couer de Vetiver Sacre. And Nuit de Tuberose.

    Go figure!

    Hugs!

  • Geordan1244 says:

    Hey March,

    I was pretty ho-hum about it when I first tried it, but kept getting wiffs of something pretty while sitting in church and realized it was me! :) I do like it, just not enough to grab me and pull me into a committment.:d