I´m a country bumpkin. It´s official. I´m used to beautiful landscapes, but I´m struck dumb nowadays, whenever I head into
No chance to sniff the new Malle Dans tes Bras, which’ll launch in Liberty this weekend. Nor Eau d’Italie’s Baume du Doge, which that hadn’t yet heard of. But I did get a chance to catch up on a stack of things I’ve missed – though I didn’t feel like I’d missed much. Magnolia Romana, Fleur de Liane and so on, I felt swamped by aquatic florals. Not my thing, but it might be yours. They’re selling well, apparently. And three other fragrances I wanted to try – the testers were MIA. Must’ve pleased someone, I guess.
I as tempted by an export bottle of Borneo 1834, my latest fave (and Dzongkha it turns out – who knew? More on this another day) but it’ll be cheaper to pick up a bottle in Paris – those limited editions have hiked up prices.
And speaking of hiked up prices, it was time for le Labo. They seemed to have stolen one of the bell jars from the Cire Trudon display, as that’s where all the Poivre 23 was stored. ‘For protection’, Anna, the lovely SA laughingly told me. And she sprayed my hand.
Now, Poivre 23 is by Annick Menardo, and there’s a distinct quality to all of her fragrances. Many are sweet (Hypnotic Poison, Lolita Lempicka, Bois d’Argent) and there are several with smoky aspects (Bois d’Armenie, Bulgari Black). I love Patchouli 24, her other wonder for le Labo, though sometimes I find it tough to wear – too thick perhaps in the drydown. Someone on Perfume of Life once equated it to standing in the shell of a recently burnt out house and breathing deeply in. I kind of get that, but love that potent birch tar kick. But not always. Best in very cold weather.
I suppose I was expecting sweetness and richness and smokiness from Poivre 23, with a similar surprise in the opening to the operating theatre oddity of the patchouli number. But what you get, in the top notes, is exactly what the label says. Pepper. Not fine white powder that irritates the throat and tickles the nose. Not black heaviness to remind you of the oversized phallic grinders of old fashioned Italian trattorias. Nor the ubiquitous pseudo pink pepper of all-and-sundry scents. But a pepper of wonder; the sort of pepper the first traders must’ve sniffed and felt the wingstrokes of angels in the rhythm of their fast-beating hearts. It shocks, it makes the familiar strange. Fruity, alcoholic, nuanced with rounded spicy accents, I did a little gasp (truly, I did) when I smelled it.
Of course, the magically fruity aspects don’t last, but if anything it gets better – the patchouli and cistus kick in and come close to a smell I’ve dreamed of wearing – that of Diptyque’s magnificent room scent, Maquis. Dirty, open-aired, woody, spicy, ungendered. Wonderful. It sweetens in the Menardo way as it dries down, but really smells like nothing else I know, and for me, recovering from my out-of-love-with-perfume condition, that is nigh on miraculous. I suppose I shouldn’t be surprised – the official note list (which may or may not bear relation to the actual ingredients) read like a made-for-me recipe: cistus, patchouli, bourbon pepper, sandalwood, gaiac wood, incense, vanilla, styrax.
It’s late, and I’m out of words. It’s a perfume that isn’t worth the $$$ it costs. But. But. But. It might be a masterpiece. I just have to straighten out whether my adulation of Annick Menardo + its uber-exclusivity+ my current mood = myopia or truth. Now I need to find a friend in Tokyo so I can get a sample of Gaiac 10, Menardo’s other city exclusive. That must be wondrous too, eh?
If you’d like to win the chance of a sample, leave a message and I’ll announce the lucky recipient(s) on my next visit.
Addendum: interestingly, Le Labo have today changed the name of the perfumer attached to Poivre 23. It’s apparently Nathalie Lorson, not Annick Menardo. I guess this SNAFU is everywhere – the SAs had Menardo’s name next to the product. I’ll leave it up to you whether my review now holds any weight, or whether you agree with the charmer who commented below. I did tell you I was a bumpkin.
As a fellow country bumpkin who sometimes gets all dressed up in her finery to make the trip into the ‘Big City’, I’m glad to hear I’m not the only one gawking and drooling at all the beautiful people. Oh, you weren’t actually drooling, where you? Just me then! I’ve had a sniff of this Poivre and I think I’m in love. But for me, I somehow manage to smell a note of cedar which I don’t think is even listed. Hmm. For me, the opening note was definitely pepper and then it dried down to warm dry sauna smell. Which is meant as a good thing. I knew I had to have it. Then I asked the price I knew I never would!
Please may I be entered in the contest for a sampler?
On my last trip to London before moving back to Sweden I bought the Cire Trudon Carmelite candle. I’d read on a blog that you were supposed to smell the bell jar – ha! – otherwise I’d have done just like you. Unfortunately, though, most of the candles made me nauseous. Almost all of them, really. The cheap plasticky generic buttery-sweet “freshly baked bread” smell of Revolution especially! I wanted to like Odeur de Lune but there was something about that sour/tangy/burnt smell… nope… The musty mouldy mossy stone walls of Carmelite turned out to be the most refreshing one, especially when I light it at home – it seems the candles smell worse (more sickening) in the bell jars. Hmmm, perhaps those bell jars aren’t such a good idea… Though I admit they preserve the scent very well, compared to tester candles that just sit around evaporating.
I also bought Gomma and After my own heart, though I sort of regret the latter – it seems much sharper and more generically floral when I spray it at home and I now think En Passant is worth the extra money as the only lilac scent I need. While I was there sniffing and thinking a woman of Middle Eastern origin bought 6 bottles each of every Ineke scent plus lots of other stuff!
And I just have to add, your going-to-town outfit sounds absolutely lovely!
Sounds gorgeous – please put me in the draw, thanks! I think pepper, used well, is a really nice note.
I love Dzongkha, too. In fact I think I scared the sales assistant when I first tried it, with all the sniffing and exclaiming. She looked as though she were mentally measuring me for a canvas jacket! But that was a certain sour-faced SA in A.N Other Big London Store, who has no business working with gorgeous ‘fumes, as she clearly hates her job. She makes me feel silly and frivolous to have opinions on perfume at all – that’s why I mostly go to Liberty, instead. I’m such a coward….:”>
I’d go try the new Le Labo myself, but I have no dosh to spare, so it would simply be torture. I am incapable of trawling Liberty without buying something. Maybe I should move out of town – I’d probably save a lot of money!
You’re a heroine on the frontline of sniffage, is what you are! Keep it up… Dzongkha is a marvellous iris incense… and I love iris.
I struggle withn sniffage in S______s most of all, though the main perfume floor of H______s is pretty horrendous too – unlike the fifth.
You’re in.
Thanks, Lee!
I agree about S______s (I like the Bronte-esque touch, there..) They employ the SA I’m talking about. And wouldn’t you know it, she hovers over the ‘good’ stuff! I still go there sometimes, but I back off if she’s alone. It’s certainly not a haven for the perfumistas, that’s for sure.
As for H______s, I haven’t been there for years, but I do recall that sniffing was not made easy. I didn’t know there was more on the fifth floor, so thanks for the tip.
Sounds wonderful, although the city specific thing really bugs me. Still… I would like to try my luck in the drawing!
You’re not alone! It bugs me too.
You’re in.
Your wonderful description forced me to delurk. How could anyone not want to try something prompting such amazingly florid language?
If I’m not too late, I’d love to be entered in the drawing, as well. If not, I shall pursue the sniffage in December, as I have my trip to London booked already…
Oh, thank you. I hope it’s florid-good, not florid-bad… Of course you’re not too late!
And welcome to the daft little world of the perfume posse commenters. I hope you’ll be vewwy happy here.:d
I almost got a hold of the Tokyo exclusive. Perhaps in a bit of time.
So Borneo is already a SL “export” in the UK? That’s fantastic news for the rest of us (well, at least for a hopeful future!). Please enter me n the drawing as well.
Fingers crossed on the Gaiac!
Yeah, Borneo is definitely everywhere you’d expect it to be over here (all three places…!)
Lee, I guess I may be too late for the draw – smells like Maquis? you got me there… Include if it isn’t the case.
But, more importantly, did you just mention you were going to pick perfumes in Paris, which means you and Matt will actually be coming here at last? If so, drop me a line, pretty please. Worth much more than all the samples in the world…
Yeah – we might be in Paris in December (or the end of November). Will keep you informed…
I should’ve prefaced my review with a ‘first testing and adulatory’ warning – there’s only 5 minutes of Maquis.
Interesting to spot all these Maquis fans – I thought I was alone on that score… @};-
I always look forward to your reviews here on PP Lee. People watching and perfume sniffing in London sounds like fun.
So, how much is the price of Poivre 23? As much as the Vanille 44? Ack!
I want to smell this badly – whether Menardo did it, or not. If it’s not too late.
Never too late Mr P!
160GBP for 50mls
240 for 100. That’s pricey, eh?
Holy cr*p!! That’s a bit out of my budget …:o
Like you, I much prefer :)>- to:-l, even if that makes me a ~:>l-)|-)
You’re in.
I ride the train into Chicago for work each day, and am always struck by the frenetic and pointless energy of people jostling each other in the station to get to the streetcorner 30 seconds ahead of everyone else. There’s a certain value in bumpkinocity. Always a pleasure reading your reviews … Poivre23 sounds fantastic, please do add me to the drawing if it’s not too late!
See below…:d
….well when you get right down to it, aren’t we all bumpkins somewhere?
Could I be in the drawing? (Late to the party as usual) Thanks!
I guess we are!(~~)
And you’re in.
Oh I missed london… I visited once a couple years back and caught the worse case of the flu ever =P Some Poivre 23 would have clear that right up !
What a shame to get ill on a trip (I did once – amoebic dysentery – twas supernasty).
Is pepper good for flu?
Sounds interesting…please enter me in the drawing!
Okay Ben!
Very late to this party, but would love to know if you think any perfume is worth that much money? Just curious. And not even sure of my own answer.
I’d say no, in any sense of worth. Perfume is frivolous, and generally an affordable luxury. These high end niche products open the door to a world of absurdities. There’s that lovely capitalist phrase that ‘something’s worth whatever someone’s willing to pay for it’, but personally I feel the mark-up on these exclusives is likely to be an egregious profit. I’m also sucker enough to fall for it nonetheless. I have an uncomfortable relationship with luxury vs. utility…:-?
I had the same feeling when I was in London this past summer – people were so smartly dressed. And so many men were wearing pale pink shirts with their suits – must be the new white? It looked wonderful and gave them all a touch of colour.
Isn’t Liberty wonderful? They have a women’s ‘vintage’ section with stunning vintage Dior, YSL, etc. Sigh.
would love to be in the drawing. Looking forward to your comments on Dzongkha
Kim
That pink shirt thing has lasted a long time – I much prefer colour in my shirt to white, which drains we totally.
And Kim, you’re in!
Well, these notes make me tremble, so I’d love to be entered in the drawing. And your review, Lee – a great pleasure to read, as always.
Thank you elve. The notes are the best aren’t they? You’re in.
Would love to try a sample – please enter me in the drawing. Thanks!
Sure thing!
I like your reviews. Please enter me in the drawing.
Okeydoke!
Oh dear, it sounds fabulous! I would love to be entered in the drawing. 🙂
Oh dear indeed! You’re in.:d
Great review – very well written. I would like to be entered in the drawing please. Many thanks!
You’re in Devon – and thank you!
What a lovely, enticing review… You reminded me of a period in my life a few years ago when I was living and working in the absolute back of beyond but would spend weekends in NYC; it was the happiest time of my life, but it was such culture shock every Friday evening to arrive in Grand Central in my work clothes — jeans, work boots, general grime — amid all the bustle and gorgeousness. Heck, even the little kids were more put-together than I was!
Anyway, I’m sure you looked the part, and even if not, I’m sure you smelled it! Thanks for the review, and I would love to be entered in the drawing.
It’s funny, that juxtaposition. Matt and I spent three years where I lived in the centre of things, and he lived out in a village – the contrast we both felt was intense at times…
You’re in.
while the exclusivity of le labo’s scents annoys me (esp all the vanille 44 temporarily at the colette/gap store in NYC talk) but i have to admit that i am fascinated by their scents and their gimmickry. i’d love to be entered to win a sample
I know – count me in as one who’s annoyed and delighted at the same time…
I would love to be in the drawing- though it bugs me soooo much to even look at that bottle “Compounded in SoHo by Bo-Jade”, yet sold only in London. Grrrr… :((
Bo-Jade is very different to the Anna on my bottle…
Lee, i would KILL for a 60s Dior suit! and i know just what you mean about Islington. I lived for a long time in a dull backwater of Holborn and used to hike up to Angel and it surrounds to dream of what it would be like to be rich and posh and live by the canal in a Georgian brick manse.
Islington has some of the most gorgeous squares in London and one of my fav pubs — the Albion (lovely big garden in the back and little snugs for drunken snogging).
Yes, please enter my in the Poivre 23 sample freebie. I love pepper in all its maifestations, so count me in!
Yeah – I still dream of a rich and posh life. But then I do some work in an inner city school and once again am made aware of the different lives lived in all areas of London…
You’re in…
I’ve been waiting to read your review and it didn’t disappoint 🙂 I’d love a sample 🙂
You’re in the draw – and thank you!
Amazing review. Despite having just acquired a vintage bottle of Flor de Blason from 1926 I am now totally lemming this Le Labo.
Stick my name in the drawing too, please!
You’re in, vintage girl!
My ‘little niece’ was just in London for the first time–on business!( Damn, that makes me feel old) and world traveler that she is, loved it as I have loved it every time I’ve been there. Great review on the poivre 23. Sign me up for the draw.
It’s a good place to go… Good on your niece.
You’re signed up!
Le Labo themselves have been advertising this as by Annick Menardo, Now Smell This had said by Annick Menardo, and her source was Le Labo. So I can’t see you’re to blame for the change. Wonder why this happened on their end? 😕 Curious thing, isn’t it?
I didn’t think it *sounded* like Menardo only because, you know, it should be something that smothers us under its viscous sweetness. :)>- But then I thought: Given that LL scents like Rose don’t bear much relation to their smell anyway, then it made sense to me! 😉
Those candles sound divine.
Copy and paste, I reckon.
I thought the vanilla with the pepper and the gaiac/cistus combo did sound like her, but colour me stoopid…. Now, the more I smell it the more it changes. But what do you expect from a first day gush review?
The candles are awesome!
Love you Marchie.
And don’t you hapen to love Hypnotic Poison, sweetness or no???
Love you too. Miss you. I bet you looked hot. And as I think you know, I ADORE Hypnotic Poison, and many (most?) of Menardo’s other scents.
What a lovely tableau of the streets of London–sort of like a scene from a latter day Mrs. Dalloway. You do sound pretty sharp in your 60’s Dior navy suit! Please enter me in the draw, too.
Fortunately, no suicides!
You’re in the draw K.
Oh, Lee! I’m already obsessed with Le Labo Vanille and now your telling me there is another wonderful Le Labo “exclusive.” I just managed to restrain myself from having a friend purchase a bottle of the Vanille when she was in Paris, how will I managed to control myself knowing that she is heading to London! I guess I’ll have to keep reminding myself of all the TPC samples and decants I can buy with that money instead! Love hearing your “voice” again.:)
But too much for a blind purchase and if you fall in love with a sample from TPC, I’m sure there are ways and means to obtain a bottle;)
You’re in Judith!
Just dropping by when I got a minute–and I noticed this fabulous review! Please put me in the draw!
Look below…
Lee, it is always so good to “see” you! I know you looked quite handsome yesterday. Gosh I love London!
And please enter me in the drawing. Thank you!
Hugs to you!
P.S.–So how much is P23 anyway? 😮
Thank you! And you’re in.
You’ll need a hug back to hear the prices. In pounds (I don’t have the sign on my keyboard, even though I’m in the UK – crazy) – 160 for the 50ml ($300ish) and 240 for the 100ml ($450ish). Ouch.
Not quite times of austerity at the luxury end (which is where I park my perfume head though I tend to have beer rather than champagne money for everything else in life!)
Ooh, squeeze me, Lee. Squeeze tightly!
Frankly, I am not surprised by the prices. The others, like Vanille 44, have been even more expensivo!
Wonder how much the Los Angeles exclusive will be? Stay tuned…
Probably v v pricey, given the disposable income of the LA set (does anyone ever use that phrase any more? Am I hopelessly old-fashioned?). Never mind us poor hoi polloi!
Which phrase, Lee? “LA set”? I don’t know, it sounds fine to me, lol!
Mmmm…this sounds as delicious as it is ellusive. Thanks for a great read and count me in as a hopeful for a lucky sample.
You’re in!
It is delicious.
Ah the vintage Dior–you can’t get clothes constructed like that anymore. Those babies were made to last–I’ve got a lovely jacket from the early 50’s (sadly the skirt is waaaay to small for me to consider wearing) that I break out occasionally: you could probably run a tank over it and it’d be OK. The perfume sounds divine–please enter me in the draw.
You’re in
Nothing like vintage is there? (Though we call it second-hand over here, which sounds a lot less glamorous, unfortunately!)
Sounds wonderful, Lee! Nice to see your posts again. Please enter me in the drawing.
Thanks – you’re in ahsu!
Thanks for the review! You make London sound pretty nice, with the super attractive people and all.
Don’t worry, I made that same mistake with the jars and candles once before.
Please enter me in the drawing. :d
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!
But I make those sort of mistakes repeatedly!
You’re in.
Oh, that sounds magnificent. I would love to be added to the drawing.
What a glittering description of your trip, Lee. You always bring me a smile and dreams of faraway places not remotely resemblant to my office.
Well, I’m glad to sprinkle some glitter on your office!
Throwing my greedy hat in the ring. I love pepper.
And I love your descriptions of being overwhelmed by the beautiful people around you. I feel that way every time I go to the Big City. It’s a lovely feeling, mostly, and I try not to overschedule myself with lunches and dinners and visits and so on because I always need some alone time with the city and its lovelies…
Oh yes, Time to stare. Very important.
You’re in, sweet sweetlife.
Well la di da Mr. vintage Dior! You make P23 sound so lovely, I’ll have to ask to be entered in the drawing.
PS: the whole “femme” designation is so arbitrary and stupid. Meh.
It’s a secondhand suit Billy. Bought cheap. Just happens to be Dior.
:d
Honest!:d
You’re in the draw – and I don’t know why it says Femme in that pic – the drydown is not superbutch, but it’s quite easily as much testicular as it is ovarian…:-?
Would adore a sample, please include me in the drawing. Need to know if I need to beg my cousin to swing round Liberty before she moves home in December…..
You’re in Juno. Anything I can do to help!
Is it possible to love you more o, Bumpkin Twin??? Unwilling to fan a flame on such a lovely day I’ll just ;)) and bask in your delightful turn of phrase…
….and beg for an entry into the drawing!
xo>-)
ps. can’t wait to hear what you have to say about Dzongkha! It it one of my ‘special friends’
It’s funny. I’ve worked my way thru a decant of Dzongkha, and over time it’s crept up on me more and more. Then I forgot about it for a while, the almost empty decant languishing in the third of my sample boxes. Yesterday, I sprayed it as a reminder. Incense and iris. Oh my.
It’s love. Probably now at the top of my ‘favourites by Bertrand’ list.
I’ll go off and find out that it was actually created by Laudamiel now, won’t I? ;))
You’re in – and ta very much for the compliment.
I don’t imagine you as a country bumpkin at all, but I’m from New Jersey. 🙂
The LL Poivre sounds marvelous, and lord knows that I’ll never be able to justify the price of a full bottle, so please do enter me in the drawing!
How’s the pup by the way?
You’re in.
Stay tuned for a pup update sometime!
Beautiful reviews! What caught my eye most was your mention of Maquis in relation to LL Poivre. I am so crazy for Maquis my feelings defy description. I asked at Diptyque about a wearable version of this scent, and of course they didn’t promise me anything, but still… I hope my request might have reached the ears of someone who could make it happen! In the meantime, I have contented myself with DK Labdanum EDT. This is as close to Maquis as I have found and it is extraordinarily lovely – if perhaps the tiniest bit thin by comparison (and lacks real tenacity). COULD LL Poivre possibly be better? I am just dying to smell and see for myself! Please enter me in the drawing – I’ll keep my fingers crossed til then. 😀
Aaah, it doesn’t stay there for long. As it is for you, Maquis to me is perfection. And Poivre is not like DK Labdanum – it doesn’t have that simplicity and sits somewhere between old school perfumery and the newer, clearer style. But you’d love it for at least some of the time!
I made the move to country bumpkin 4 years years ago and have never looked back or been more happy. Your review of Poivre 23 has me yearning for a ticket to London and trip to the airport. Please do enter me in the drawing to sample this masterpiece!
The countryside makes me happy in ways the city never could, though there are things I miss.
You’re in!
OH my, a wearable version of Diptyque Maquis, you say? Yes, yes! Please enter me in the drawing.
Your outfit sounded very nice too…
Well, it only holds that Maquis moment for about 10 minutes – seems to be some kind of blurring between the pepper and the softness of the drydown. It’s definitely there, but the dirty edge isn’t really maintained.
Lee, What a lovely day you had and what lovely sounding perfume! I’d love to be in the draw. But, do you know what I’d love even more? A picture of Gracie! How’s she coming along?
Well, perhaps a post will follow some time!
You’re in the draw!
Damn. This confirms it. Must start thinking of elaborate reasons why I *need* to spend money I don’t have on 23. A noble attempt to bolster the international economy in these bleak times? Keep consumer spending going? I’ll continue mulling over this till I come up w/ the perfect rationalization.
A wonderful friend gave me the CT Dada. It truly is divine.
Oh, and a 60s Dior suit?! You may have been watching some lovely creatures, but I’m sure you were the focus of a more than considerable number of admiring looks yourself.
It’s extrait, someone pointed out at MUA. Maybe that’s good enough…!
The CT Dada is terrific isn’t it? A new smell really, in its effective mishmash of flavours (and I mean mishmash really positively here!).
And thanks for the compliment. I think I looked like a daft French bloke trying to look American college preppy!
Oooo…LOVED this post Lee! I’ve been waiting for your review since you mentioned you’d be testing it over on MUA!! How’s the lasting power? Another 24 hours like Patchouli 24? I know this was listed as an extrait which makes it even more interesting! Would love to sample!
:d
Well, it was still there this morning after sleeping with it and though not achieving the thickness of Patch24, it certainly has some strong similarities. Of course, you’ve seen my addendum pointing out my birthday suit error, haven’t you?
Hmmmm…this sounds like an interesting error to clarify…:o
Doh! I was focusing on the b-day suit. Far more interesting 😉
Well, perhaps closer to interesting than alluring!:”>
What a nice way to find the perfume description…embedded within a lovely day. 🙂 I wish you another in the not-too-distant future…one which includes a pleasant interlude with perfume.
I’d love an opportunity to have a sample of Poivre 23. It would be fun to benchmark it against L’Artisan Poivre Piquant, too; that one also opens with nothing but pepper, and then has a warm, sweet, milky drydown. This one sounds like that classic soap opera twist…you thought you recognized me, but NO!, I am Clarissilda’s spicy, dry twin, in from outside! Clarissilda is still in the kitchen–mwa-ha-ha!!
(Sorry, getting away with things…must be procrastinating starting this last day of the week.)
It is a Clarissilda indeed! Love it.
Quite different to Poivre Piquant, which morphs from one straight-up smell into another. This is all merging and shape-shifting and softening, certainly becoming fuller and perhaps creamier, but not in that milky way.