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Sep 032015
 September 3, 2015  Posted by on September 3, 2015 11 Responses »
Cuir Cannage Christian Dior Fragrantica

Hi there Perfumed Posse! I hope life is fragrant where you are. Cuir Cannage from DIOR La Collection Privée range came out in 2014 with much perfumista fanfare. I tried it in South Korea and was immediately underwhelmed. I don’t know what was wrong with me on that day but since then I have drained one 5ml Surrender To Chance decant and am onto my second. It feels a lot like love…..

Cuir Cannage by Christian Dior 2014

Cuir Cannage by Francois Demachy

Cuir Cannage Christian Dior FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange blossom, ylang-ylang
Heart: Rose, jasmine, iris
Base: Birch, juniper, leather

When I first spritz my immediate impression is how delightfully retro Cuir Cannage smells. It opens like something I’ve bought from a vintage store, maybe it’s the base which seems to be right there in your face in the opening moments with a deliciously indolic orange blossom and creamy ylang. All together for about 10 seconds I am a movie star spritzing in the limousine before being usher onto the red carpet and into an event. The heavy make up, my fur coat, leather purse and the hairspray all combine with the soft hint of excitement perspiration and my dates cologne.

Cuir Cannage DIOR hedy-lamarr werner22brigitte PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Soon after though I am head first in a new-ish handbag that has a bunch of fragrant decants and a couple of lipsticks, a pressed powder and lip liner, a Glo-Mesh purse filled with crisp colourful Australian polymer money (which has a smell all its own) and a Glo-Mesh cigarette case and ladies Zippo lighter. This is what I smell.

A warm and sweet leather fragrance that has so many beautiful facets and goes through distinct metamorpheses and finally after hours of joyful sniffing we end up with a lovely creamy leather. A worn leather with hints of the tanning process but mainly we smell the covering fragrances and the warm body of the wearer, maybe they’ve just taken it off.

Cuir Cannage DIOR Full Leather Jacket Don Bailey FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Whenever I wear Cuir Cannage my head turns to Guerlain, it’s not a particularly Guerlain fragrance and certainly it lacks their sweet vanilla/amber dry down trade mark, but this is a fragrance that I would love to see in the Guerlain line up. It would fit the bill I think.

Further reading: Persolaise and Colognoisseur
DIOR stores and some larger department stores carry the DIOR La Collection Privée range
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml
What do you think of Cuir Cannage? Do you agree with my Guerlain reference? What is your favourite leather?

If you liked this then drop on over to Australian Perfume Junkies and continue the fragrant conversation there, we love visitors.
Portia xx

Aug 312015
 August 31, 2015  Posted by on August 31, 2015 19 Responses »
Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot

Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot is the latest release in the Tom Ford Private Blend collection.  My first thought when I saw the name was  – how in the world do you make a perfume around a note that traditionally is a note for the open of a perfume or a staple for a cologne?

Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot

Okay, I was intrigued, thinking it would be good, but maybe not that interesting.  I deliberately didn’t read the background on this, thinking it took Venice as its inspiration. Venice is a magical city. I’ve been there once, and there is no city like it in the world, and that includes that little restaurant we found in a back street that served the best Italian food I have had.  Ever.  In my whole life.  It’s been two years since I ate there, and I still think about it from time to time.

Sorry, that was a memorable meal rabbit hole.

Bergamot is typically used as an opening note or in colognes.  Short-lived, bright and sunny, and bergmot appears in better than half of the perfumes made.  It is a perfume workhouse, much like the base notes of musk, sandalwood and vanilla.

What else goes in it then to retain the bergamot, but make it last and be much more interesting.  Notes of Bergamot, black pepper, pink pepper, ginger, ylang ylang, gardenia, cedar, pepperwood, magnolia, sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, cashmeran go in.  That makes this an interesting perfume. Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot opens with the casual bergamot brightness you expect, surrounded with some fleshy magnolia and gardenia, sprinkled with pepper. It feels plush and bright at the same time.  Elements of cologne with a gorgeous woody floral base.

It is an interesting tightrope it walks, trying not to veer too far from the bergamot it is named for, but keeping enough other things going on so you don’t lose interest.  I wound up liking this a lot.  It goes on joyous and immediately deepens into more than a cologne.  Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot walks the line of unisex really well – a little floral, a little cologne, a lot of woods and pepper, smoothed over with tonka.  Easy to wear, it would work well in the office or for a night out on the town.

Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot takes a perfume note workhorse and turns it into a perfume that is a workhorse as well – unisex, day, night, softly sexy.  And, bergamot, congratulations, you now have your own perfume, you are a grown up note now!

What does Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot have to do with Venice?  I’m thinking that makes it unique like Venice.  Both are sophisticated, having things that aren’t singularly unique.  The whole makes it unique.  And, like Venice, it is a beauty.

Hey, have we heard that Tom Ford Amber Absolute is back for a short period? Yeah. That’s the one my son reviewed as “like putting a beehive on your head.”

Is there any other pure bergamot-centric fragrances out there that you can think of?  BTW, I did read all the suggestions about what to do with PFG once a month posts, and we will keep doing that. Summer is slow for everyone fragrance-wise. I know I get less interested in perfume, as do the other PP writers, and I think all of you are waiting  for summer to pass so we can get to the great fall new releases and pull out our beloved vanilla and vetivers and orientals.

Any new releases this fall you’re looking forward to? I haven’t even been paying attention yet, except to those Annick Goutal oud things that come out in the next month or so.  I’ll give away four samples of Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot to commenters drawn at random.

Yes, I’m working on that Big White Floral post. I hope it doesn’t kill me first.

Aug 302015
 August 30, 2015  Posted by on August 30, 2015 11 Responses »
Mod Noir

Mod Noir

Mod Noir

As I read the info about Marc Jacobs Mod Noir on the Sephora Web site (it’s an exclusive there) and other places, I wondered if this might be a bit of a flanker to Marc Jacobs’ original scent, the one in the square clear bottle with the slightly curved black spray top and tiny black bow. Which was pretty nice, if you ask me, and not a whole not that he’s put out since has knocked my socks off. (I still wish I had snapped up the solid perfume in the original, housed in a beautifully sleek silver case.)

So on a recent foray into the big city, I decided to check out the new kid on the Marc Jacobs block.

Notes per Fragrantica: clementine, yuzu, gardenia, tuberose, water lily, orange blossom, nectarine and musk.

Mod Noir opens with a wash of soft green, which takes a gently sweet ‘n’ citrus turn, thanks to the clementine and yuzu. It’s got a bit more zesty/fruity vibe than the original, and is perhaps a bit creamier as well. A hazy mix of white florals carries through to the drydown, a soft breeze of said florals tinged with fruit and orange blossom. In comparison, her more elegant big sister keeps her green, slightly watery persona to the finish.

Mod Noir 2

Original Marc Jacobs

And speaking of ending, Mod Noir certainly did — and quickly — on my skin. Let’s just say that Mod Noir easily could have made our post from a week or two ago on fleeting fragrances. Which makes me wonder about the name: There’s not even the teeniest, tiniest shadow of anything dark here, like woods or even moderate-weight musks that might have anchored this and made it last longer. But that’s not really surprising, I guess, as not all that many scents really live up to or reflect their names these days.

Having said that, Mod Noir is definitely office-friendly; a quite pretty but safe fragrance for someone who wants a scent beyond the sugary-sweet celebuscents, but shies away from fragrant heavy-hitters.

The packaging, in its perky black and white stripes, has a retro vibe and is cute as can be. I also spied the scent in one of those fun rollerballs and originally thought it might be a nice late summer addition for me. But after finding that a spritz barely lasted an hour, I decided to pass. So for now I’ll be content to use up my spray samples as summer wanes.

Have you tried Mod Noir? What’s your favorite Marc Jacobs scent? I confess that I only tried several after the original, and after that, the line mostly fell off my radar, although I remember liking one or two of the limited edition ones with “Splash” in the name.

Aug 282015
 August 28, 2015  Posted by on August 28, 2015 15 Responses »

bubbleOne of the unfortunate things about my last couple apartments is that they have wholly inadequate bathtubs- low and short, so that I can’t really soak in them: I look like Rock Hudson in “Pillow Talk”. Well, if only in size to tub ratio. My first apartment here in LA had a twenties tub that I could truly luxuriate in- long and deep and I could soak with only my head peeping out. As a matter of fact it was in this tub that I rode out a minor earthquake- I suppose that’s how devoted to soaking I was.

Not that I don’t still enjoy a good bath, even if I feel like I’m trying to soak in a chafing dish. I have had varying success with the bath goo- I had a delicious tub of bath salts I bought at Neiman Marcus that had a little shell to scoop it out and was written of to “release the goddess within.” It smelled divine, but they stopped carrying the line and I’ve never found it again. On the other hand a friend once gave me some “bath bombs” from Lush that were just awful: filled with color, bits of fluff guaranteed to clog the plumbing and g-d help me, glitter. I am not a Real Housewife, don’t have a cleaning person and frankly do not wish to pick glitter out of my netherlands, so I put them in the toilet bowl. They smelled nice, so there was that.

So, lets talk bath. What do you like to use in your tub? Let us know in the comments.

Seville a l'aube by L`Artisan Parfumeur 2012

Seville a l’aube by L`Artisan Parfumeur 2012

Hey Perfume Posse. Seville a l’aube means Seville at dawn. When my mate Denyse from Grain de Musc brought out a book I was super thrilled and had it as soon as it could come to Australia. Then I bought a few and gave them to my mates for presents The rest, please…

A Glancing Light

A Glancing Light

Before I forget, the winner of the Bits & Pieces draw is Anne Launius-Berbling!  gmail the evilauntieanita, remind me which giveaway, etc and I’ll get the smellies out to you. And don’t faint:  I’m caught up on the Sends!  Yeth!  There are still some outstandings but that’s on y’all.  If The rest, please…

September Perfume Sample Fairy Godmother

September Perfume Sample Fairy Godmother

Doing this a little early because of the holiday coming up next week and some other work things that really knotted up my free time today! Also, do you guys want me to change this up, do it less frequently, like every other month, or structure it in some other The rest, please…

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