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Oct 092015
 October 9, 2015  Posted by on October 9, 2015 No Responses »

tauerThis one is gong to be kind of brief- I’ve been having renovations in the building involving multiple contractors, painters and plumbers including one spectacular plumbing back-up that caused me to use about three gallons of Pine-Sol in my garage. Note- if you are using baby wipes and flushing them, stop now. Trust me.

I did manage however to take a minute to get to ScentBar and score a sample of the new Andy Tauer. It’s take on tuberose, which can be a polarizing note- I know people who love it and some who recoil from it like Dracular from garlic.

Andy’s take on it is different from what you’d expect. It’s not a creamy tuberose, it is almost a bracing one. It’s not listed in the notes but I want to write that there’s citrus in the opening making the tuberose sparkle. The spices in there warm the scent in the middle while the jasmine and geranium still keep things on the lighter side. While I am not sure that it’s completely office-friendly (what tuberose is?) it’s completely modern and won’t scare the horses the way that other scents with those notes might. (I love you Fracas, but I’m looking at you.) It also has a healthy dose in the dry down of that signature “tauerade” note that pulls the whole scent together.

Would I wear it? Probably not. White flowers just kind of aren’t my thing. But if I got a whiff of it out off a lady I would be seriously wanting to lean in and sniff.

Notes (from LuckyScent):

Cinnamon, cloves, galbanum, geranium, tuberose, ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, tuberose, patchouli, ambergris

50ML is $145. I asked for and received my sample at ScentBar. Image is from LuckyScent.

Oct 082015
 October 8, 2015  Posted by on October 8, 2015 10 Responses »
Wave Musk Mancera FRagrantica

Hiya Posse Peeps, A few years ago one of my besties was in London and happened to be trawling the Selfridge & Co beauty and fragrance floor looking for inspiration and just loving being back home in the UK for a moment. She was greeted warmly by an SA at a counter for a fragrance line she had never heard of, and to be fair neither had I. It was the Mancera line and Alice was so swept up in the girls friendliness, knowledge and enthusiasm that she bought me a bottle of The Aoud. Then she got on the phone at great expense and told me she’d bought my birthday present and NO she wasn’t going to tell me anything other than bought at Selfridges. I love it, wear it often and the whole story makes me smile every time I think about it. Seriously, how freaking lucky am I? So let’s talk about another in the line that’s caught my fancy, Wave Musk …

Wave Musk by Mancera 2011

Wave Musk Mancera FRagranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Grapefruit, black currant, grass
Heart: Sea notes, orange blossom, sea salt, driftwood
Base: Seaweed, white musk

The Mancera story goes: Built for the Middle eastern market. Large European style fragrances with an oud speciality. Using the same crew that brought us Montale, which they do resemble.

Exif_JPEG_PICTUREPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Sharp, sweet, green and salty opening that is deeper and richer than the aquatics of the 1980s but definitely references them and builds upon their legacy. Can anyone say Grapefruit Margarita? Definitely a party fragrance. It’s nice: fresh and herbal. It has a lovely ring of the old stately cologne but with a bad ass saltiness that turns it slightly sideways. A very similar heft and thickness to the scent that is so popular with Montale fans I think it will be a hit with anyone who likes their UN-oud offerings like Sandflowers and Soleil de Capri. Which I adore.

The Wave Musk grapefruit manages to last well into the heart giving the salt and orange blossom a zingy and sweet sheen. As the woods float in they are only very slightly warm and around much the same time the seaweed arrives. It reminds me of the seaweed wrapping on Gimbap, like Japanese Nori Rolls. Sea-ish but clean sea, dry and zero of the under boardwalk stench. That raspy, dry first bite of a roll with the sugar and vinegar rice is a nice analogy of the layers of scent in Wave Musk.

Wave Musk Mancera Korean-Kimbap WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Wave Musk is a very interesting player, it should be barely wearable and so retro as to be unwearable in 2015 yet it manages to be refreshingly new and fun. Imagine if Womanity had used grapefruit instead of fig? You get the picture. As with all Mancera’s lasting power is eternal.

First In Fragrance has €82/60ml and samples

If you liked this then come on over to AustralianPerfumeJunkies and continue the conversation there.

Do you have an aquatic favourite or even one that torments the living shit out of you? Has the Mancera line tickled your fancy at all?
Portia xx

Oct 052015
 October 5, 2015  Posted by on October 5, 2015 19 Responses »
Kilian Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec Moi

By Kilian Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec Moi is the latest release in the Garden of Good and Evil series, but with the “Night in the Garden of Good and Evil” slant.  Created by Alberto Morillas, it has notes of gardenia, ylang, tuberose, rose, vanilla and cedar.

Kilian Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec Moi

Can we take a moment to look at this little clutch Kilian Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec Moi comes in?  I hadn’t gotten one of the GG&E clutches in my clutches before, but this thing is so darn cute.  I never use a clutch, but it will go perfectly in my cut little used Vuitton black doctor bag purse I finally gave in and bought at a great price as an early birthday present.  Yes, you get a picture of it.

Kilian Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec Moi

Soooooo Gardenia? Is it too much to hope for a big, stinky bleu cheese gardenia?  yes, yes, it is.  But given that most people don’t agree with us stinky gardenia lovers, it’s probably a smart choice to tone that down so Kilian Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec Moi has a broader appeal.  There is a bit of gardenia tang on a longer open that never fully resolves, which is great, but this is an elegant floral with some opulent tuberose and ylang. I don’t think this is really unisex or at least not comfortably unisex. I think a guy could wear it and smell amazing, but I think it’s a tough sell as unisex.

The gardenia, tuberose and cedar are used judiciously to give it a subtle undercurrent of darkness.  Hard to say why, it just doesn’t feel that wholesome as an elegant floral, but it’s not dirty or naughty pungent.  Just slightly morally askew.

Hey sister! Go sister
soul sister
go sister.

He met Marmalade down in Old New Orleans
Struttin’ her stuff on the street
She say
Hello, hey Joe, you wanna give it a go?
Getcha getcha ya ya da da
getcha getcha ya ya here
Mocha chocolata ya ya creole Lady Marmalade.

I wound up loving it, but I think if you’re looking for something making a big statement with that name – Kilian Voulez-Vous Coucher Avec Moi – well, you’ll probably be disappointed.  I loved the beginning of it much more and wished that could have lasted all the way through – that  bite.  It turned into a really beautiful floral that is easy to wear and that biting quality got smaller when I wanted it to get bigger.

I’m not crazy about the name, though I do love the song and, honestly?  I think the name fits for at least part of the life of the perfume. It’s a seductive floral that has that little hidden bite to it that should scare you but doesn’t.    And that clutch!!   I have to admit that I’ve taken the perfume insert foam out of all of my Kilian boxes and turned them into knitting supply boxes.  I know, I know, that seems so wrong to take such beautiful things and make knitting notion containers, but they are really perfect!

Winners of the Ormonde Jayne Vanille d’Iris samples – foxbins, eleebelle, nancysg and cookiequeen.  Just click on Drop Us a Note at the top of the blog, send me your name and address and remind me what you’ve won.  I’ll send you a quick “got it” e-mail so you know it didn’t drop into my spam filter and then get it sent to you.

Of course we will do a drawing for this!  Just drop a comment with either your favorite Kilian, or tell me if you like or hate the line or never even tried it, or you can tell me all the ways you hate the name of this perfume and will never tell anyone what you have on when they ask – and they will ask, I promise.

Oct 042015
 October 4, 2015  Posted by on October 4, 2015 22 Responses »
sky line 2

sky lineNow that I’ve discovered that I can wear blue nail polish – light blue, that is, no navy or electric blue, thank you — I’ve been looking around for the best shades for me. And I’ve stumbled on what might be the perfect one. This is a pale, silvery, lavender blue nail color polish that fairly screams spring and summer, and we’re into fall (at least here in the Northern Hemisphere, but you guys in the SH could easily groove on this now). But I’m just so excited to have found a nearly perfect dupe for it that I just had to share. Back in 2012, Chanel launched a wondrously elegant blue nail polish called Sky Line. Unfortunately, I missed it. Although truth be told, back then I would no more have worn blue nail polish than the man in the moon.

But in the past year or so, as my nail polish palate has expanded, I stumbled upon this beauty belatedly and fell into deep, deep want.

However, by that time Sky Line was long gone from stores and was fetching upwards of $60 or more a bottle on ebay. However, I am nothing if not determined, once I get my mind set on something. So after a month or two of poring over Internet nail sites and some heavy experimenting – not to mention some crazy mismatched blue nails along the way — I think I have hit the jackpot.

sky line 2In 2013 or ‘14, Lancome rolled out a bridal collection of nail polishes, and among them was a shade called I Do, Blue. It’s still available, so I got myself a bottle and was so excited. It is a nearly perfect dupe of the Sky Line and is gorgeous on the nail.

But being a bit of a perfectionist, I thought it could be ever-so-slightly improved upon, to give it a wee bit more of a lavender tone. So I played around with layering deeper colors under it.

The most spot-on formula to the Sky Line wound up being one (or even two coats for more oomph) of OPI’s You’re Such a Buda-Pest to make it a bit more lavender leaning, then one coat of I Do Blue on top, then finishing with a glossy top coat. Ah, perfection! This makes me so happy that I think I’ll just wear it year-round.

What about you? What nail colors are you enjoying now? Do you have any dupes that you love?

P.S. The Lancome I Do, Blue polish may be available on the Lancome site or on amazon dot com, but I got mine at belk dot com. It also appears periodically on ebay. OPI’s Buda-pest is available wherever the line is carried.

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