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Patty White launched Perfume Posse in 2005, and we've been yapping on and on about perfume endlessly since.

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Sep 182014
 
 September 18, 2014  Posted by on September 18, 2014 6 Responses »
Sanguine Keiko Mecheri Fragrantica

Hiya Perfume Posse,

Rarely do I go looking for a new citrus fragrance. There are three I really love here in my collection already: Escale a Portofino by DIOR, Estratto di Colonia by Pineider and Liberte by Cacharel. There are others but these three are my most reached for my a mile. Recently though Surrender To Chance was doing their Fabulous Friday and I grabbed a few 5ml decants of things I would usually not try because they were so reasonable priced and I thought why not, I do like the Keiko Mecheri aesthetic. So here is one that I quickly fell for….

Sanguine by Keiko Mecheri 2000

Sanguine Keiko Mecheri FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Musk, Amalfi lemon, blood orange, petitgrain, orange

Sanguine: 1. Adj. optimistic or positive, especially in an apparently bad or difficult situation.
                   2. N. a blood-red colour

What a great word, featuring both a positive, optimistic state of mind and the colour of blood red. Sanguine is exactly as it is named. Sweet, fresh and joyously citrus that is almost exactly a blood red orange. A literal impression that is even more wonderful because it lasts so well for me, keeping the fun citrus bounce right through its life, merely hitting pithy (the musks) as a later stage but never losing sight of its beautiful late summer fizz.

Sanguine Keiko Mecheri Blood_Orange DoctorTonyStarkWho DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

After the opening fireworks peter out a little Sanguine gets a lovely tart bite to it that may be the Amalfi lemon but is probably the petitgrain. Here is where my mouth waters, yes in real and factual reporting my mouth did water and suddenly all I wanted was some citrus in my day. Fortunately there was some bought in the bottle fresh squeezed orange juice which slaked my need. The scent is so real that I was smiling broadly like a fool as I grabbed the juice. I love this green tangy bite that evolves through the heart, it keeps me interested. Then the furry, pithy musks stroll in and while maintaining lovely citrus fruit and leaves brings Sanguine to a close, surprisingly long scent life though softer in the last couple of hours.

Sanguine Keiko Mecheri blood-orange-beet-and-fennel-salad BonAppetit(blood-orange-beet-and-fennel-salad) Photo Stolen Bon Appetit

Here is an excellent fragrance that I find quite intoxicating. Sanguine is not a universally loved fragrance, the few reviews I could find were only very mildly enthusiastic to outright mean. Not as in your face as FM Bigarade Concentree, nor as effortlessly pretty as Escale a Portofino by Dior but somewhere else. Here the story seems 100% citrus, fun, light and frivolous. I could easily imagine it as a go-to day spritz or a great after workout shower frag that would reflect the happy jump in my step from doing something good for myself compounded by the endorphins. Excellent work choice, fragrant but not perfumey. You will smell wonderful and fresh all day at work.

Sanguine Keiko Mecheri California Orange groves Don Graham FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Sweet Diva and Perfumes: The Guide
LuckyScent has $115/75ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

If you thought this was fun, come on over to Australian Perfume Junkies and join in the conversation over there too. We love visitors, say G’Day while you’re there.

Portia xx

Sep 162014
 
 September 16, 2014  Posted by on September 16, 2014 45 Responses »
Sunshine Boxf2 copy

We are having the scariest Autumn.  It’s freezing, with constant rain…and it’s not even October!  I haven’t seen sunshine in ages…and was in despair…until it showed up in my mailbox!  Remember how I was talking about gratitude and appreciation for …well, for nearly everything – and certainly everything to do with my journey through the world of Perfume!  This is one of those ‘things’.

I wrote the backstory on the Midnight Flower Collection by Amouage awhile back  – if you are not familiar with how it came to be, I urge you to give it a quick read.  It is, in essence, a Love Story – and like so many love stories, begins, ends..and begins again, weaving Love and Loss  and Love Again, together in a darkling tapestry that shades to brightest gold.

Christopher Chong’s latest perfume offering, Sunshine, is that brightest gold!  It’s the summer sunlight as you emerge from a shaded canopy in a primeval forest, where darkness really does have its own backstory.  You can sense the spirits of Nature that have gone before but there is also a thread of new life that is woven within that forest and once you come out of the canopy the brilliance of the sun affirms that life.  Sunshine weaves all of those feelings into its composition – this is no sparkly little citrus, with a frilly sort of charm.  It’s a grounded, warm scent, with a core of burnished brightness – and I know I sound a little twee?  But it’s true!  That is exactly how it feels!  I don’t know if Amouage could even create a little sparkler – and there’s certainly no need for them to try.  Plenty of lovely little fizzy citruses out there.  This one is heftier, as if it had an actual piece of the burning sun at its core.

I am an unabashed Amouage Lover, as you know, and I consider it a Very Good Thing that there are a couple of the line that I do not love (remember Honour, with the kid wielding the axe?)…because then, when I ‘do’ fall madly in love, as I have here, I can legitimately shout from my metaphorical rooftop.  I can say, in all sincerity, that I adore this.  ‘Sunshine’  is one of the most complex of beautiful, ‘happy’ scents.  It’s a celebration of happiness! but with a nod to what you have to sometimes experience in order to achieve that happiness.  Wearing this, I think of all the beloveds that all of us have lost in our lifetimes, all those who have cherished us and, in turn, have been cherished by us.

 

Sunshine Boxf2 copy (2)

isn’t this gorgeous?!

Here’s the PR from Amouage:

International luxury fragrance brand, Amouage, has launched ‘Sunshine’ for Woman exclusively at its 17 standalone stores across Oman, United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Kuwait, Malaysia, United Kingdom and Italy. Created under the guidance of Christopher Chong, Amouage Creative Director, the exuberant, white floral Eau de Parfum is an extension of the ‘Midnight Flower’ Collection that comprises of ‘Hope’, ‘Love’, ‘Happy’ and recently introduced ‘Smile’ candles and complementary room sprays. 
Youthful top notes of Almond, Blackcurrant Liqueur and Davana open to an intense bouquet of Osmanthus, Jasmine, Vanilla and Magnolia in the heart. Notes boldly culminate in the magical, earthy base of Cade, Patchouli, Papyrus and Tobacco Blond.
The bright and joyful fragrance is presented in Amouage’s iconic glass crystal bottle in a brazen, iridescent sunshine hue. The refreshingly white cap is accented with a golden Swarovski crystal to resemble a shining overhead sun at high noon. The bottle is housed in a cool azure, mosaic box with gold foil illustrations of swirling flares in rhapsody around the Amouage insignia. With removable inserts, the boxes are designed to be reused to safe keep ornaments and mementos.
Alas.  Alas.  If you do not live or have friends in any of the locations mentioned in the PR, you are going to have to travel – or wait.  It’s not here and it’s nobody’s fault but ours, USA!  Why..oh, WHY don’t we have a standalone Amouage boutique?  WHYYYY?  I ask you?  Well…why is irrelevant.  It is thus and so we shall have to wait until February!  In the meantime, Russia and the Amouage standalones will have it.  So!  Make New Friends!  ???? ??w ???????! (here’s hoping the conversion worked and I didn’t just Make an entire continent of Enemies!)
For candle lovers, there’s Smile, the fourth installment in the Midnight Flower Collection.   The original Posse post was all about Christopher’s creation of these candles.  This candle is playful, energetic, peaceful and uplifting – that’s a heavy load for one little candle to carry – but it does so with aplomb.  It’s a pretty, pretty scent  (I love the Hawthorne note!!!) in a gorgeous package – I don’t think there is anything prettier than deep pink and bright gold!
smile candle“Smile is the next stage in the healing process when a person can begin to let go and learn to hold onto the truly joyful moments their loved one left them with,” says Christopher Chong. “To reflect this stage, I incorporated playful ingredients like Raspberry and Almond in the top notes and Madeleine, Biscuit and Hawthorn in the heart. Vanilla and Musk in the base softens the fragrance for closure.”
‘Smile’ is available in all stores 6 October 2014.
I don’t know if one can ever really gain closure, when one loses a beloved.  But I do know you can close chapters in the passage – and the journey does smooth out a bit, after Time has taken you on its travels – and you can emerge into the sunshine – and you can, once again, Smile. And at the end of it all, that’s pretty much what I hope for.
I can’t share Smile – but I can share ‘Sunshine’.  Drop me a note in comments and tell me a love story – I’m missing Bruno during these random.org draws.  But I soldier on.  I’ll spin the button and pick a winner and someone will get to sample the Gorgeous!.
Sep 152014
 
 September 15, 2014  Posted by on September 15, 2014 34 Responses »
Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt perfume review

Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt is the newest 2014 release for the regular Jo Malone line.  Not a limited, not part of the rain series or garden series or intenses or whatever.  Yeah!  Yeah because it’s one I really like for exactly what it is. More on that in a second.

Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt perfume review

First, winners of the Arquiste The Architect’s Club samples – mikasminion, flowergirlbee!, Laurels and Lemoncake.  Click on the Drop Us a Note at the top of the blog, send me your address, remind me what you’ve won. I’ll reply quickly to let you know I got the e-mail and it didn’t get stuffed in the overclogged arteries of my junk mail, then I’ll get it sent out to you. Enjoy!  It’s becoming one of my favorite fall scents – and oops, I think I blew the miss on that last week.

Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt is just that.  Herby salty woods. It’s like a crisp cold ocean breeze whistling past my nose, and it reminds me of all the things I used to love about Jo Malone.  Her unusual use of two notes together as the complete perfume – ginger and nutmeg,  coffee and vetiver.  Not maybe unusual, but they always seemed not quite complete or not complete, but they always felt pretty perfect to me.

Wood Sage & Sea Salt isn’t some brand new entry into the perfume market that’s going to blow your socks off, but if you like salty scents – yes! – then this is one you should try.  It’s easy to wear, feels like it would work for any time of the year, unisex, and did I mention a pleasure to wear with all these happy feelings just radiating from it?  Yeah, that too. It’s the intangible that I like, and it feels more Jo Malone’ish than many of the releases of the past few years have been.  Notes listed are ambrette seeds, sea salt, sage, grapefruit and red algae.

What I was hoping would show up today didn’t.  You guys remember hearing about that other Serge Lutens release, L’Incendiaire?  Well, yeah, when I got the rest of the deets on it, I about had a heart attack.  Serge has turned into a moderately priced line a lot of the time, especially when you can snag the export bottles at Beauty Encounter (link on the right if you want to go shopping) for less than $100 and sometimes with a discount I’ve gotten Chergui for like $66.  The bell jars at Barney’s are not a bargain, they are cheaper in Europe, but you do have the price of the ticket and the extra shopping while there.  Serge Lutens L”incendiare is a 50 ml bottle for …

$600.

Your crimes are mine, and I take them with me to the guillotine, where the executioner is waiting to cut the ruffian’s – my – story short. But my destiny is entirely in your hands!

I’ll just leave you with that while I’m waiting for my bottle to show up. Yeah, I have to because we need to get it for STC.  If not, I would have had to think about that for a long time and make sure it was true, true love, before I’d ever – and maybe not ever – spring for a bottle.  Ugh.  I’ll let you know once I get it and sniff it. I hope it’s not love, but I sorta hope it is because — I don’t know why, but I always hope the stratospheric price tag perfumes move me in a way nothing else does or why should it be so much?

Favorite Jo Malone or just your double-take and shocked mutterings about the Serge Lutens L’Incendiaire price to be entered in a drawing for a sample of the Jo Malone. I’ll give away three of them.

Sep 142014
 
 September 14, 2014  Posted by on September 14, 2014 26 Responses »
Reveal Mainstream

Reveal MainstreamWhile visiting my mother-in-law over Labor Day weekend, I popped into the local mall (Macy’s and Dillard’s, etc.) and poked around. Not much piqued my interest, but I did try a couple of things.

First, the new(ish) Michael Kors trio:

The Sexy Amber was fairly predictable, but I like amber in most guises and this one was pleasant enough, but not 90-plus bucks pleasant, if you know what I mean.

By the same token, I expected to enjoy the Glam Jasmine, and although pretty, it was a bit too synthetic-y for my taste. Someone on Fragrantica mentioned a similarity to Marc Jacobs’ Blush, and I definitely could see that. Like the Sexy Amber, if someone gave me a bottle, I’d not quibble, but I still would rather spend the extra bucks and have one of Serge Lutens’ offerings or something else a bit more unique.

There was also a bottle on the display with the main three, called Sexy Rio di Janeiro (a Macy’s exclusive it turns out). I thought that one might be the most adventurous, but it turned out to be so fleeting that I didn’t wind up making any notes on it at all.

After sniffing it on the blotter, I blew off the Sporty Citrus altogether for any skin time. It did not stand out in the least to me and easily could have been one of a number of similar scents already on the market.

A bit later on, I spotted the pillowy, cube-ish Calvin Klein Reveal bottle, divided diagonally into half glass and half metal. (As I looked at it, I kept thinking: Didn’t I have a pair of earrings from the ‘80s that looked like this?) They’re calling Reveal a “solar oriental,” so I was unsure what to think. It turned out to be a slightly salty amber musk, back-heavy on the vanilla, with the tiniest thread of something marine running loosely through it. It reminded me of a scent that I couldn’t quite put my finger on; and although it didn’t thrill me, I could see Reveal working nicely on a brisk fall or winter day as a cozy wrap of warmth. A soft, warm and creamy skin scent and unlikely to offend anyone. And I think it could be good on the guys as well. Hey, at least it’s not another fruity-floral concoction.

Then as I was heading for the door, I passed the Estee Lauder counter. No skin territory left, but the SA kindly gave me a sample of the new Modern Muse Chic. On the blotter, I thought I sniffed a touch of citrus infusing the original. But when I got home and tried it on skin, all I got was what seemed like a slightly altered version of Narciso Rodriguez for Her. Not a bad thing, mind you, but not what I was hoping for.

So Reveal wound up being the best of the bunch for me (meaning, I would enjoy a sample or three, but no more).

What about you? Have you found love (or even like) with anything out in the mainstream lately?

smell bent five

smell bent five

It’s hard to credit since I feel about five years old myself, but smell bent has turned five. You all know that I think they’re great, delivering brilliant scents at price points that those of us in the Hoi Polloi can actually afford. Five is one of those scents. It’s The rest, please…

DSH Perfumes: Sienna by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

DSH Perfumes: Sienna by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Hey there Perfume Posse, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes is a very special Indie Perfumer. You may have noticed I do love the Independents. They have more scope, less restrictions, are free to dream and express their fragrant selves to the limits of their potential. While I’m sure they The rest, please…