Shopping my Shelves

First, it’s official: the ChiCocoa Scentsation will be Saturday, SEPTEMBER 13 — that’s the date most people can come. Mark your calendars! Okay, on to today’s post —

For someone who does a lot of yapping about my alleged restraint in buying bottles (as opposed to hoarding samples) I´ve had to start rotating my fragrances seasonally in order to find anything. Of course there are things I wear year round, but a certain amount of my scent is pretty much summer/winter only, so it moves in and out of my closet with the bathing suits and wool sweaters.

Fragrance rotation also forces me to dust everything, which is necessary, even if it isn´t fun. Every time I do this, though, I run across fragrances I never wear. I bought them. I liked them enough that I didn´t immediately move them to the swap pile. So why don´t they wind up on my skin? Part of the reason might be I can´t remember what they smell like.

I grabbed three forgotten scents randomly to try and unravel the mystery, with some history …

asja.jpgFendi Asja. I bought this unsniffed because the price was right and I like Fendi Theorema so much. Notes (which give you a sense of its kitchen-sink Oriental complexity): bergamot, peach, apricot, raspberry, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, nutmeg, cinnamon, mimosa, lily of the valley, honey, carnation, orchid, vanilla, sandalwood, cedar, musk, benzoin, balsamic styrax and amber. It´s a sweet, spicy fragrance with a vanilla-woods drydown. Somewhere out there is a review by someone (who? I know you know) that compares a particular fragrance to the smell of warm radiators – that scentless scent of dusty, baked house air. I grew up with radiators and I love that smell. Anyway, they weren´t talking about Asja but they could be – to me it smells something like Cinnabar parfum with a heavy dose of hot radiator accord. It is gorgeous – sensual, but more the warm embrace of Tocade than the leg-humping lasciviousness of Opium. While I love Asja in theory, and find it strangely comforting, it just never seems to be something I reach for. Analyzing this, I want it to be a comfort scent – a blue jeans thing I wear to the grocery store – but the rest of the fragrance is as grown up as a ball gown. The bluejeans/ball gown tension means I never quite feel like it´s the right occasion for Asja. Great bottle. ADDENDUM: wore it over two miserably wet, cold days recently, trying to figure out why I never wear it. It is the PERFECT wear-around-the-house crappy weather comfort scent.

Alexander McQueen Kingdom EDT: Notes of bergamot, neroli, jasmine, ginger, cumin, patchouli, copahu wood, vanilla, myrrh, sandalwood. I smelled the EDP and the EDT on my UK trip and, fab as the famed EDP is, there are limits to how many startling cumin scents I need. The EDT is an entirely different proposition. While the notes I find listed online are the same, the scent is essentially a musky floral summer-weight scent, not a cumin bomb. So why haven´t I been wearing it? Well… that heart-shaped bottle (instead of the wedge-of-alien-fruit EDP flacon) lays flat, it´s big, and it wobbles around on its side. At some point I got nervous/irritated by its sneaky moves and stuck it in a drawer, at which point it ceased to exist. Smelling it again, my first thought was I made a mistake – I went for the safe choice and lost. Having said that, it does not fall into any of the summer stereotypes – it is not a citrusy thing, or fresh, or a fruity-floral. The cumin emerges in the drydown, but even then it is very subdued. It´s a strange scent, a dry floral with some of the salty muskiness of Eau de Merveilles. I have put it on my shelf in plain sight, and look forward to trying it in the summer heat – assuming the summer heat ever gets here – to see if it grows on me.

Paul & Joe Bleu. I swapped away the P&J White eons ago, unable to deal with the hawthorn, but I kept this – it´s an oriental, notes are bergamot, coriander, caraway, cardamom, cumin, ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, magnolia, heliotrope, sandalwood, oud, patchouli, myrrh, vanilla, and musk, created by Pierre Bourdon in 2003. I googled it and can´t find anything, it seems to have fallen off the face of the earth – it´s not even on eBay, and I think they had them by the dozens back in the day at Anthropologie, where I bought it – and cheap, too. And too bad it´s gone, because really, it´s a nice fragrance. Somewhere between the vanillic haze of Shalimar Lite and a honking dose of patchouli to unsweeten things, Bleu does an interesting fifteen-minute lateral shift from feminine powdery florals to masculine woody tobacco, and I would love to smell this on a man. The spices are much more muted than you´d suspect from the list, contributing to the overall richness of the scent rather than calling attention to themselves on an individual basis.

Why don´t I wear this? On me, this registers as Serious Perfume. For those occasions I reach for either Mitsouko or Jicky. But it doesn´t smell like either of those, and it’s not so pervasive. On the other hand, it’s not so long lasting, either, and it gets a bit thin. I’ll try to work it into the rotation.

Anything on your shelf that you like in theory but it´s been languishing for so long you can´t quite remember what it smells like? And how come you aren´t wearing it?

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Natalia
18 years ago

Have two very neglected bottles: Black Cashmere and Tommy Girl. Bought them together years ago at auction for just $30. Loved BC right away, did not care for TG. It was June, so decided to wait for colder weather to wear BC. Subsequently got swayed away by hunting down/trying/wearing other perfumes. But am very glad/borderline happy that I do have a full bottle of BC, believe it or not somehow I imagine bright yellow and lots of sun when I sniff the cap of BC.

Robin
18 years ago

You can still buy direct:

http://www.paul-joe-beaute.com

Admin
18 years ago

I don’t think I have anything in particular orphaned right now, just some in the closet hiding. But I did pull out all my tea scents, it’s just time for them.

Can I just bitch mightily about Bergdorf-Goodman? After sending me the wrong shoes, and me kvetching about it and wanting them to ship it one-day, which is what I paid for originally, those a-holes shipped it two day, which is going to require me to call up and gripe some more. It’s exhausting, I tell ya! I wanted those shoes todAYYYYY!!

Victoria
18 years ago

Ina was the one who introduced me to Fendi Asja parfum, and I must say that it is very beautiful. I do not wear nearly as much of my usual favorites these days, as there is simply no time to wear them, but I manage to sneak it some Asja from time to time. The bottle looks like a Japanese soup bowl, and it is striking!

Elizabeth
18 years ago

I have some good news: They have Bleu and Blanc at Bergdorf Goodman – or at least they did last month when I saw them. I only tried the Blanc, which I find quite similar to L’Eau D’Hiver and Apres L’Ondee. Now I want to try Bleu!

sylvia
18 years ago

paul and joe really has fallen off the face of the earth. recently i became smitten with blanc and remembered that they had it at anthro not 6 months ago. now it doesn’t exist. anywhere! haven’t tried bleu, but if i can lay my hands on it, i will.

sylvia
18 years ago
Reply to  March

crap there’s just the one? im in CA. can’t pop over on my lunch break unfortunately…

Disteza
18 years ago

I’ll plead that my sample binge has also cut into the bottle-wearing, but after looking through I realized that I have at least 4 bottles that I’ve never worn: Bond New Haarlem & Silver Factory, Montale Chocolate Greedy, and CB IHP Pathchouli Empire. Funny thing though: I know my husband has worn all of them except for the Montale! I also have a sad, neglected bottle of Issey Miyake Feu d’Issey that I swear gives me a dirty look every time I pass it over. I love it, but it definitely has that, um, ‘fresh sex’ smell, which is not so good at the office. I’ll have to remind myself to put it on for the next night out.

Kim
18 years ago

Big White Florals! I love them in theory but don’t seem to pick them to wear. Somehow my skin eats the white florals – in parfum, Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia only lasts an hour on me! Plus they never seem right – even in the summer I work inside and it can be colder than in winter! So my Chanel Gardenia edt, which I love, has lasted 5 years. So still searching for a great gardenia or tuberose that I love AND will wear but will take your advice and try to use a decant before springing for a full bottle.

alba
18 years ago

I’ve had a close look at my bottles, and there it is… Tea for Two. Why don’t I wear it if I love it? I don’t know, I just don’t remember it. It’s funny, but I tend to relate perfumes to colours and cloth material, and Tea For Two smells dark grey and woolly, two things I’m not in the mood for.

Catherine
18 years ago

I’m also too new to the massive binges on perfume bottles to comment fully. Do I not wear them because they need summer, or do I not wear them because they’ve gotten lost in the shuffle? I’ll find out over the summer when I stop stampeding the retailers–I try to tell myself that the heat in transport will damage the desired bottles…yeah, let’s see how that’s going to work. :d

But I am *shocked*, just shocked, I tell you, that I’ve not worn a few in so long. Jicky, for instance. I pull it out, sniff it, fall completely under its spell–but then put it away. And Gris Clair–which is the perfect lavender-incense to my nose. Or Chypre Rouge–which is simply perfect. But I typically wear flowers–lots and lots of flowers–so they do not get worn. A couple of weeks ago, I pulled them out and handed them over to my husband. I love the smell of them, and he does, too. So now I get the best of both worlds: I wear my flowers *and* smell the SLs. Problem solved!

I’ve marked the Chicago date in my calendar!! I’m too overjoyed for words!

AngelaS
18 years ago

For “radiator smell” could you be thinking of my review of Rumba? I love that smell, too. Now I’m sorry I swapped away my bottle of Asja! I mostly remember cinnamon bubble gum from it. I did love that bottle, though.

Erin T
18 years ago
Reply to  AngelaS

It is Angela, March. I quoted her in my combined review of Balenciaga’s Rumba and Fendi Asja, so you might have gotten to her review through my ol’ blog.

Erin T
18 years ago
Reply to  March

Sheesh, no worries, girl! I wasn’t suggesting you cribbed off me – and I don’t care about that at all, anyway! – I just put that bit in there to make you certain (the Rumba/Asja connection is the clincher) and give Angela her due. I’m embarrassed I made you feel you had to apologise. :”>

18 years ago

I love Theorema and reading your post makes me want to spring for a bottle of Asja unsniffed.

I’m too much of a newbie to have long-lost frags sitting around. However, one scent I LOVE but can never quite wear out of the house is AG Songes. I often put it on right before I go to sleep; I love falling asleep to jasmine and waking up to vanilla. But it seems too femme-y for jeans somehow, so I always end up reaching for my White Aoud sample (which is getting low) instead. Maybe when sundress weather arrives. . . .

I’m so excited about Chicago!!

Debbie
18 years ago

The Asja sounds interesting; I am putting it on my sample wishlist. And speaking of samples, that is why *all* of my fragrances feel orphaned. I have been swapping and my time has been totally taken up by a million samples. Okay, not a million, but I have tried over 200 recently. About 175 have been reviewed, but I went through plenty before I started doing that. It’s been great–I have discovered some real loves out there–but sad that my FB most-loved fragrances have not been getting their fair usage. I’m not sure what to do about it. Sometimes I have massive private Sniffa days. I wonder if that’s contributed to my allergic reaction to a few fragrances. I’m putting just too much on my skin. Any thoughts?

18 years ago

Oh, Fendi Asja…I haven’t put that on in forever…maybe I’ll fix that the next crappy cool day that comes along. Today is far too nice in my area for it, but I hear that the crap weather arrives again tomorrow. I get a stewed plums in wine smell from it more than dusty radiator. I’ll keep an eye out for that dusty smell though.

Louise
18 years ago
Reply to  March

Remember to wear your rubbers tomorrow 🙂

Francesca
18 years ago

ITA with MarkDavid’s comment on the Asja bottle. Really beautiful design.

I also agree with Sallycantdance on the “in theory” of Zagorsk. I love to sniff it in its little vial, but it makes me think too much of Rasputin for me to actually wear it.

I haven’t been collecting fragrances long enough for any of them to be forgotten somewhere, but I do have this bottle of Baghari EdT . . . It was a freebie at the Sniffa in December. I tried it that night and wasn’t wild for it. Then I tried it again a couple of months later and fell in love with it as its warm and sexy citrus/chypre evolved over the course of the day. And I haven’t worn it since. I don’t know why. I didn’t wear it today because I’m seeing Macbeth tonight and I don’t think it’s right for Macbeth.

And speaking of scents that have fallen off the face of the earth, does anyone remember Norell Red from the early-to-mid seventies? I’ve already discussed this one with March and Tania and now I’m wondering if I am hallucinating it.

Francesca
18 years ago
Reply to  March

Nope, definitely Red by Norell.

I dunno, Coromandel seemed right for the Scottish play. Though some might prefer Secretions Magnifiques with its accord, as you said, March, of bloody knife…

Francesca
18 years ago
Reply to  March

Oh, that’s horrible. I’m sorry. We do get attached to these lovely things.

Kim
18 years ago
Reply to  March

Oh my gosh – that hurts! Those rugosas and old roses are soooo lovely. They become almost like family members!

What to wear to various Shakespeare plays? Would love to read that post…. she begs of the arts/English majors :-\”

Existentialist
18 years ago
Reply to  March

I would be devastated. How awful.

18 years ago
Reply to  March

Oh, March…I am so sorry about the roses. As one who has nurtured clippings and trimmings from grandparent’s gardens, and run in front of demolition crews in order to rescue beautiful old plants, “ah feel your pain.” 🙁

Actually, if I had encountered the well-meaning duo, my face would have probably been @-) .

Ha! Perfumes for Shakespeare! Bring on the Ether de Lilas for Romeo & Juliet! (Here…gone!!) Also fun to consider whether we are wearing the scent as audience member, or if we are dressing a character…

18 years ago
Reply to  Shelley

En Passant! I meant En Passant. Blargh. In the midst of a smelling binge…not taking notes….

moi
18 years ago

I get some radiator out of Djedi, or maybe I’m confusing radiator with damp basement walls? Anyhoo. Asja sounds like just my kind of cup of coffee.

Funny, my Kingdom has also been languishing in a drawer (I have the red, egg-shaped EdP – it behaves nowhere). I just ran over and pulled it out and spritzed a bit on my left wrist and, whah! WHERE are all y’all getting those florals? I get lemony armpit all the way. I likee, though. I was surprised that The Perfume Guide called it dull, heavy, and opaque. On my skin, it’s quite ah interesting composition, with the lemon eventually working its way to the surface where it sparkles and dances and becomes quite easily wearable.

Existentialist
18 years ago
Reply to  March

Is Wet Basement from Demeter? (Joking, but not risking getting the wrong emoticon).

MattS
18 years ago
Reply to  March

New Puppy or Puppy Breath would be the greatest scent to have bottled. I love that smell.

Gail S
18 years ago

Whew, that Asja!!?!! I’m gonna have to rank that one right up there with Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant in terms of sheer un-wearability. Kitchen sink is right, I feel like I’m wearing someone’s entire fragrance wardrobe on my wrist with this one. It’s just too, too much :-&

It’s interesting that your post should be about shopping in your own shelves. We recently cleaned out the “junk” room where we put all my daughters’ stuff that wouldn’t fit in the rest of the house when she moved back home. I found three small boxes of the perfumes she had taken off to school with her (some of which I had been wondering about!). There were a couple of older CSP’s of the non-vanillic variety (Eau des Artes!), the first Max Mara ‘fume, Miami Glow, the milk-bottle Diesel, YSL Vice Versa, and a bunch of others that I can’t think of right now. I’m probably still not going to wear any of them, but it’s nice to know what happened to them :d

The scents that I still am quite fond of but never seem to wear anymore are probably my green, herbal-y perfumes such as Isabella Rossellini Manifesto and Davies Gate Garden Made. Both are a little sweet, a little dry and really quite satisfying on warm spring or summer days. But right now, I am suddenly obsessed with tea scents, specifically Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus Interdite and Stephanie de St-Aignan Un The au Sahara. I can hardly see the rest of the collection for those two. But, given my fickleness, I’m sure that I’ll shift again some day soon and have room for other goodies.

Debbie
18 years ago
Reply to  Gail S

L’Elephant is bad? No!!! I can’t believe it. That is one of the most wonderful smells on me ever. Um, but there was a slight problem. Okay, a serious problem. I am so allergic to it that as soon as two minute drops hit my forearm, hives broke out. I kid you not. I wish we had full disclosure on ‘fumes so that I could try to figure out which ones are allergens for me. You’re probably saying to yourself, “I am NOT surprised it was allergenic.” (grin)

Debbie
18 years ago
Reply to  March

I have other allergies (dogs, ragweed, tree pollen, etc.), so I guess it shouldn’t be surprising. Do you have any other allergies? If not, I guess you just don’t have a reactive immune system. If so, count yourself lucky indeed! I’d use a smiley face, but all I’d get is a clown.

sylvia
18 years ago
Reply to  Debbie

those sound like seasonal allergies to me (except dog). i used to get this thing where my lip would puff up for no apparent reason, because i have no known allergies. then after a few months of it happening about once a week, it just stopped forever. i think it was a stress-related allergic reaction. stress is weird that way. so my rec is to try it again if you like how it smells!

Debbie
18 years ago
Reply to  sylvia

Thank you, Sylvia. I will! I can always swap or sell on ebay, I guess, if it still causes a reaction.

Existentialist
18 years ago
Reply to  March

Have you tried The Menthe by Cote Bastide? It starts as warm, very sweet, minty tea, and dries down to a very pleasant burnt sugar. I know that sounds sickeningly sweet, and I normally hate sweet, but this is so nicely done, and so realistic that it could be from CB I hate Perfume.

18 years ago

Edna! No capes!! I love Edna!

I can’t wear Kingdom. Someone extra’ed me a samp & I couldn’t even tolerate it sprayed on a tissue. I don’t think any of those are my speed. Too floral or too bergamotty or something.

My orphaned ‘fumes, well today I re-tried Josef Statkus b/c I wondered if maybe I might love it again. We’d been on the outs for almost a year. Ya know what? It’s not me. Too cold, too harsh, goes sour & a little dank. Phooey. Must swap. I’d probably love it on someone else.
On the other hand, I recently un-orphaned my Premier Figuere Extreme & we’re very happy together again.

Gina
18 years ago
Reply to  Divalano

do you want to sell the josef statkus? i’ve been wanting a bottle.

MarkDavid
18 years ago

Come on ‘a my house, you smell Bleu on a me! You chose 2 scents that I love and wear (Kingdom and Bleu), and the other that I was just yesterday searching for on eBay b/c it sounds very much like its for me (Asja).

I, too got Bleu at Anthropologie and it was a great price (I have the Blanc as well) but you’re right – they don’t have it anymore. BUT! I did notice it at the Paul and Joe counter in Bergdorfs, so it IS still in this country. I think for any fan of Bourdon (Me!!) or Ellena (Blanc) should seek these out just because the price is so damn perfect – I think $50, correct me if Im wrong.

I don’t get any Cumin from Kingdom, really. Its all floral on me, but then EVERYTHING is all floral on me, not that I’m complaining mind you.

Off the top of my head – Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male is one that I own but probably wore only once since it came out last year. I want to love it, but the opening is not pleasant to my nose and it goes on kind of slanted, I dont know how else to describe it but slanted – crooked, askew, you get the picture. The Orange Blossom in it is kind of mucky, and VERY synthetic and that is probably the culprit.

That Asja bottle alone is worth it, even if you don’t love the scent.

MarkDavid
18 years ago
Reply to  March

Yes I did try Theo Fennell. Many, many times. As a matter of fact, I put on some extrait everytime Im in Henri Bendels. Not b/c I love it, but b/c its so ridiculously overpriced that I feel like its practically an act of shoplifting just to put a dab on your wrists. Its expensive and its free to try – so Try it I have. Its nice, and you’re right – its very little cumin on me, more florals and woods. But absolutely ridiculously priced. Another case of inflation due to packaging. I dont need a sterling silver holder for my bottle of perfume, thank you. This is the same reason I haven’t bought any of the Killians. $100 for a refill, yet they want $225 from you the first time around. Seems ridiculous to me, I mean – we already know how much (at maximum) the juice is worth (because they TOLD us). I don’t need another wooden lockbox. It would be different if the refill was like $175, but its not, its less than half of the initial cost. And that irks me bigtime. Oh boy, I got myself on a tangent. Dammit.

No, I have not tried Courtesan. It sounds like I need to. Is it even sold state-side?

Yes, the Paul and Joe counter is WAAAY in the back by the back set of elevators. Right across from the home fragrances section.

MarkDavid
18 years ago
Reply to  March

I think the Theo Fennel extrait is around $450 and it comes with a sterling silver base that the bottle rests in. Ridiculous. And all of the lids on the products are silver as well – the body lotion, etc. Apparently, Theo is a jeweler? And decided to impart his aesthetic into the world of perfume. (God help us)

Louise
18 years ago

Wow-the task of finding sad unused bottles in my stash seems daunting…

But among my long-time loves, I have been neglecting Opium, Datura Noir and Jasmin de Nuit-guess there’s a theme here, sort of-rich florientals. This week I’ll give them some attention :d/

I am trying to sell off certain “no-no-no” scents, and give away others (Yatagan-hi March!; Pamplelune-Hi Matt!). Most were unsniffed impulses, deserve a better home 8-|

I need to caution myself, though. I am going through many changes in current tastes (love my chypres and green things, avoid patch mostly)but figure that is all subject to change and re-evaluation anytime, fickle woman that I am :”>

MattS
18 years ago

Poor little Boucheron Pour Homme sulks at the back of my scent trunk. I used to wear it all the time, it was a signature scent and, at one point, the only thing I owned that smelled like a grown-up. Blast of citrus with a gradual light powder dry-down, very much the gentlemen and for that reason, it became my weddings, funerals, and job interviews scent. Since I haven’t been to any of these functions lately, it’s sat neglected for a while. I was just thinking the other day that it needed some love.

sallycantdance
18 years ago

Great reviews! I’ve never tried any of these, but not for lack of wanting to purchase them unsniffed. I kept missing the Paul & Joe during is semi-frequent appearances on eBay, and now it has become nearly extinct.

In answer to your question, I am wearing a ”theory”scent right now: Terracotta Voile d’Ete. For whatever reason, the idea of carnation never appeals to me and I go out of my way to avoid it. Tonight, though, VdE smells sweeter and sunnier than I remembered. It’s good enough for a full day out tomorrow, with a pair of ”theory” shoes and a ”theory” lipgloss.

Other theory scents: Barbara Bui, Genie des Bois, Zagorsk, Frapin 1270, Ambre Russe, Kai (reason for not wearing is that it smells jellied to me)…I could go on, but I will spare readers the roster of 50 or so that exist in the cobwebs of my memory and the bedroom closet.

18 years ago

hmmm, March, I notice that they all have cumin and patch in common. That alone could account for the “love it but where can I wear it?” motif.
I have Miller Harris’ Figue Amere, which is neither fig, nor bitter on me. It got a lot of blog praise, and I should like it more. It’s just, ummm, there. On. my. wrist. It doesn’t develop much and in heat it can go sharp on me. But I should like it more. Really. But I don’t.