I haven’t sniffed a new perfume so far this year, I realised yesterday in talking to a dear friend on the phone. That’s a quarter way through the year with very little drive or urge to try stuff out. There might be a number of reasons for this – the new aquatic/watery mode hasn’t really sold itself to me and therefore Vanille Galante / Un Matin d’Orage et al, doing little to ring my bell and tickle my feathers, can bloody well wait until I can be bothered; same story for limpid lightweight fruity florals such us ‘night wrapped in cellophane, with a sprinkle of formication’ (at least the copy had me imagining a couple of bugs checking each other out on my flesh, I don’t know about you); there’s so much other stuff that interests me I sometimes find it hard to make room; perhaps the economic situation has made me feel my fumania is a frivolity and not worthy of as much room as I used to give it.
But these speculative reasons don’t answer why I’ve no real drive to sniff out Oud 27 for example, or one or two other launches that should be singing a siren song to me and making me feverish and foamy as I fail to resist their allure. I’m funny that way.
And that isn’t to say I’ve entirely lost interest: I’ve just recently bought a perfume – a blind buy of Korres supposedly natural (and oh how I doubt it) Saffron/ Amber/Agarwood/ Cardamom number that was a steal at close to 20 euros. My first blind buy in a couple of years. I’ll let you know how it works out. And the copy for the May launched Editions de Parfum, Geranium pour Monsieur, has me jumping with glee. Dans tes Bras left me cold and a little headachy – that salty perfumed richness seemed too overplayed, an awkward mix of classical inspiration and modern aesthetics. But, as someone who grows and loves scented Pelargoniums (and it’s perlargoniums we’re talking about here, not geraniums – which is an entirely different genus, botany bods), likes minty freshness with a touch of aniseedy fennel-like edges (anethol, I believe), and adore a benzoin and incense rich drydown, this sounds oh so dreamy. I read somewhere – probably the Sorcery of Scent? – that the inspiration comes from fancy soap and clean sophistication with a desire for freshness and molecular level precision. Or something. I’m like so totally psyched.
So I hope, in two weeks’ time, I’ll write an actual review. We’ll see. Will it be written in ponderous convoluted post-structuralist style:
‘The exacting harmony of the initial accord posits a complex question. In making us traverse territories and meet an ineffably more refined version of ourselves behind the mirror, are we wearing this perfume or has it sprayed us on its radically, yet inchoately, mutable self, in recognition of its evanescent yet lasting presence? Yadda ya’
or chemical precision:
‘The benzyl salicylate drives the engine of this fragrance, the gear changes from mid to basenotes made seamless heliotropin and celestolide’
or mua snark:
“Smells like an old lady ready for death. I don’t mean to be nasty, but it totally does”
or some other style? You tell me. I’m not sure it could ever be any.
And to end on fluff, here’s the lovely Rodrigo, vlogger Katie Puckrick’s loyal assistant.
And here’s a younger Katie Puckrick, attempting to interview a shambolic Oliver Reed, in the early 90s. Must’ve been, erm, fun. This is worse than Shatner’s Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds.(The Word must be one of the worst ‘so bad you have to watch it’ tv programmes ever transmitted in the UK. Here it’s close to tragedy. Good to see Katie doing better now).
Karen Black needs to appear to shove him out of frame.
Wild Thing, you mooooooove me.
Oliver. Bless his soul. And his belly. And his ‘stache. And the wicked little gleam in his eye that makes you wonder if the joke isn’t on us!
Shake it!shake it! (not you, Oliver! Lord, PLEASE don’t shake it!)
I’m too tired to sniff right now. All I smell is the sweet smell of sleep.
xoxoxo>-)
OMG. Oliver clearly needs a chapter of his own in a book on how *not* to age gracefully.
Very little new has thrilled me recently. The only ones that have literally horrified me have been Emotionelle and SL’s cellophane (dryer sheets from hell). I had very high hopes for Le Labo’s Aoud and I don’t at all dislike it, but I simply don’t adore it. On me it’s basically a dusty attic cedar closet in an abandoned home – a rather interesting scent, but not something I have any need to own. I’m w/ Louise, however, in quite liking the new Rosine. I don’t love much from that line, so it took me by surprise. Has a fantastic tea note as it dries down. I’ve also fallen very hard for an older scent – Profumum Fumidus – that I remember sampling and not caring much for last year, but I suddenly find myself wanting to mainline the stuff. Urban diesel pollution and birch tar. YUM! Heavenly childhood memories. Also am swooning over Weil’s vintage Secret of Venus, which I’ve only just discovered. Delicious!
That new FM geranium does indeed sound good. And I look forward to hearing how the Korres worked out for you.
He sure does, doesn’t he. Sad, really.
Oud 27 sounds interesting enough, but y’know a description like that, as poetic as you make it, doesn’t make me want to sniff it. Happy to imagine really and move on.
Must smell that Rosine, and now you say it, the Fumidus. Who doesn’t want to enjoy THAT?
I just received a sample of PdN Cedrat and I think it’s terrific for spring…this drydown is goooood. I’m just saying. Try it, Lee, if you haven’t already, maybe it will make you happy 🙂
Yep, that or the intense are on my ‘to buy’ list when I’m at the Nicolai store next (need to stock up on my summer burner oils… Whole post in that sometime).
This is me down on my knees begging you to do a full post on all things PdN. I will be your best friend forever.
How the hecky peck can I resist that? I’ve posted on her before I believe (am a big fan, as March’ll testify), but she does deserve more for sure. Love her catalytic burner scents (like Lampe Berger, but 10 times the class)…
You had me at ‘hecky peck’, baby! Ering intro’d me to PdN Maharanih and I’ve not looked back since.
Do a PdN retrospective. Peeeeze?
xo>-)
Uh, that’s supposed to be ‘Erin’. ’twas I who was erring!
xo>-)
Can’t say I’m sorry that the new releases so far have been mostly ‘meh’–frees up those $$$ for all the old ones I’ve yet to sniff! That’s right, vintage Caron, your time has come! Anyhow, I’ve been spoiling myself silly on high-end oud, so sadly I don’t think there’s any going back to the Le Labo/Montale-esque ‘average’ ones (uh oh, I think I just tripped headfirst into the oud snob pool). 😉 But, if anyone was keen to try out the Le Labo ouevre, Luckyscent still has the sampler set for a very reasonable $25.
I wanna trip into that pool. How’s the water? Rich and heady, is my betting.
After visiting the arabian oud shop, I’m with you on the Montale stuff. Not that I was ever that keen…
Personally, I prefer honesty wrapped in wit. Like, “I’m very proud of my advanced education, but right now I am tempted to rip my diplomas down off the wall, perforate them and use them as toilet paper.” Shall I contact Bartlett’s and inquire if they would like this little gem for their collection? 😀
You go ahead. I’d rather Dorothy Parker over Derrida, any day.
Thanks for the morning laughs. I will always associate Oliver Reed with Bill Sikes from Oliver! so seeing him in this video was especially funny.
Like many others, I haven’t found many new releases (other than Vanille Galante and Rose Praline) that truly excite me, but I don’t mind re-exploring older ones. Changes in temperature often create cravings for notes that surprise me, given my general preference for classic floral aldehydes, chypres and orientals. Recently, I seem to neeeed tuberose, orange blossom and rose. Like Joe, I appreciate the Malle travel size atomizers, and I left Sniffa with Une Rose and Carnal Flower, along with a couple of other florals.
As for your reviews? Whatever you choose is fine with me.
You’re the floral fox!
Happy holidays!
My vote for mua snark! 🙂
I’m not a melon/aquatic fan either, so I’m going back a few years and revisiting scents that I missed in the deluge of new releases. Much easier on the wallet also.
I am going to investigate your choices @ basenotes…
Hey, there’s an avatar photo of you I think behind the word press curtain… Is that you, Senor Guapo?
Wild Thing, I think I love you.
Rodrigo is hot, too. Oh, that decrepit-rude Oliver: “shaddup, I’ve not finished”
I’m not shocked you’ve smelled nothing new this year-many of us become less avid perfumistas as the weather warms, ‘specially if we love those deep, incense-y, spicy numbers so much. I have been finding that I skip some days of perfuming altogether lately, though rarely. I am also waiting for really hot weather to justify dousing myself in YSL Y and M&B Green, Green, etc. Interseasonal times, now.
A more “serious” issue is the dearth of interesting new releases. I’m in recovery from last weekend’s Sniffa, and while I had a blast, there was nothing in the new stuff to move me. Dans tes Bras (not entirely new) was just violet, which hates me. Un Matin d’Orage was pretty. Just. Oud 27 was a big disappointment-plain ole wood, not enough (any) oud to please me, crap dry down.
The new Piguet Futur was sharp and nasty on the chest of the lovely man acting as tester.
I do like Vanille Galante-it plays a lovely game of hide-and-seek on my skin, coming back with a cheery lily/jasmind note. I am eager for Andy’s Rose Chypree-it is magnificent. And one more newbie for me-Rosine’s Rose Praline is a delightful surprise (thanks, Melissa!)-a touch gourmand, but bright and clear with fresh rose and tea predominating.
Now dear, for you next Gen-u-ine review-surprise us. We MUA-ers will not take offense at your teases, the chemical analysis fans will appreciate you insight and the Prix D’Eau Faux fans won’t recognize the mockery. But I do love me a “straight”-up Lee review-of most anything 😉
Totally agree about the Rose Praline. A nice surprise wasn’t it?
Where’s my rose emoticon when I really need it?
OK, I was totally thinking about ordering Rose Praline unsniffed from Aedes. You two have officially sent me over the edge.
Go, nava!
Like March, I wonder what my ‘style’ is sometimes…
I remember watching that interview when it originally aired and thinking – he’ll soon be dead. Sad, really sad. What an old fool he made himself. Absurdist parody.
You my wild thing, hunnee.
Like you, I am horrified by the watery/aquatic trend, but I’m also a bit scared of any perfume including mint which automatically makes me think it’s a dental hygiene product of some kind. However, I dare say I will pop into Liberty’s to have a sniff (and why would you tihnk it has anything to do with that divine Frenchman at the Malle enclave?)
As for writing styles, anything overly pretentious just cracks me up. You definitely have a talent for aping the more ludicrous examples of the genre – thank you for the giggles and Happy Easter.
It is a dental hygiene risk, to be sure, but for some reason I’m craving a decent, high end, ‘fresh’ scent right now. Just not aquatic – shudder.
I’ve not met Monsieur Délicieux; it’s been an incredibly attractive woman I’ve seen, twice now. I will investigate on my next trip…
I’ll avoid the pretentious waffle – I can never be bothered to read it myself. I like a bit of precision in language.
Lee, fab-u-lous, can we have some more takeoffs on perfume writing styles please? Puh-leez?
“smells like an old lady ready for death” rotfl; such sweet girls over there.
The snark for me is in the ‘I don’t mean to be nasty’: that blatant contradiction of the words on the screen. Too funny, and something of a mua classic (granted, not the loyal perfume squad who are, by and large, lovely ladies).
My personal fave of late is “With all due respect…”
Along with ‘it’s my truth’ and other such mumbojumboisms, this makes me want to slice faces…
I have been rendered speechless. And that’s saying something.
Not for too long, I hope-I need to have you make me laugh 🙂
Because you’re too busy swooning at Oli Reed’s magnificence or his mention of Glenda Jackson’s nipples. Us Brits: we damn classy.
I can’t be certain, but I believe it was when he stood up that I was struck blind, deaf, and dumb. It’s better now, but I’m afraid to go to sleep tonight.
Be comforted in knowing he’s a long way away.
Okay. Whew. But what about the hedgehogs?
I don’t know where this comment’ll go given the nesting message, but the hedgehogs are now spring frolicking…
Wowee! I didn’t know the new FM had a name (and I didn’t expect it to be such a pedestrian one at that), but I’ve been excited about it since reading a blurb on Perfumeshrine last month. However, these Malles are really busting my b…… udget! Loved Dans tes Bras, actually. I’m glad they make those 10ml sets, which end up being pretty darn affordable (and the perfect amount of juice from 10ml-30ml).
I have to admit I like anise and mint in the right compositions, but their inclusion in this has me a bit worried. Geranium — much as I love it — can be very sharp and astringent as is, and I fear any mentholated/herbaceous notes might push it too far in that direction. Maybe I just prefer compositions that veer more toward “Geranium pour Madame”? Still, I have no doubt that Malle & Ropion have produced a work of the highest quality that won’t disappoint regardless of whether it’s up my alley.
Regarding review style, I’ll vote for mua-style snark, but with more intellect. No ponderous convolutedness, please! Also, I just discovered Puckrick two weeks ago and after OD-ing on about 5 episodes in one sitting, haven’t watched her since. I like her in concept, but otherwise I’m a bit ambivalent.
And do let us know about the Korres; that name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, does it?
I reckon Ropion will avoid the sharp and astringent. And ponderous convolutedness (aka ‘my postgraduate studies’) makes me want to eat my own entrails.