TwOuds and a floral

The next town over is having a food festival, featuring a dinner with tables running down the main street (see pic). If I had known. Sigh. This looks like it will be so much fun. This literally runs hundreds of feet along the High Street down to the quayside.

Last week, Portia wrote about a very pricey oud-rose in a fancy bottle. This popped up while I was struggling with two oud samples I’d gotten plus a tuberose. And it gave the impetus to finish a post that I’d been finding irritating.

I had gotten very excited about naming the post TwOuds to be cute. But then I wasn’t so excited about either of the fragrances. So, I moved on to the last of the samples, a now discontinued tuberose.

So, not the most focused of samplings/posts. Rather, a meander.

I preferred the tuberose to the ouds – but the tuberose is no longer available, whereas the ouds are. Do you see my point about meandering?

Anyway, this is where we’re going this week.

I have been on a hunt for ‘my oud’ for a while. I’ve sampled some I’ve enjoyed, one or two I think are really good, and quite a number that did not work. I like the Band-aid aspect of oud, and I want something that is darker and oudier vs oud and rose, oud and flowers, etc. I expect that when I least expect it I’ll sample ‘the one’. However, so far, I’m not there.

Kerosene R’Oud Elements from 2011. Notes: oud, sandalwood, orange bitters, amber, vanilla, lavender, iris. This opens with a weird, interesting chewy feel that I’d attribute to the orange bitters. I really liked the opening. But then it sweetens to orange soda. The sweet does recede and we’re into a more woody orange. The oud actually smells ‘off’ – ie, it’s not Band-aid but leathery or papery – I couldn’t decide which. And sort of damp. So, maybe wet Band-aid. Not for me.

DS & Durga Notorious Oud from 2019. Notes are saffron, camphor, galbanum, agarwood, Bulgarian rose, lavender, papyrus, civet and Cetalox® (appears to be another name for ambroxan – in any case I see it capitalised and with a trademark symbol). Starts with a great Band-aid note which 10 minutes in turns to burnt (not burning) wood, with something unpleasant and sour in there. After that, I get rubber and menthol, and the drydown is weirdly aquatic/marine. Thoroughly confusing and again not for me. And definitely not notorious.

So, on to the nice but discontinued floral.

I tried l’Histoires de Parfums three tuberose fragrances when they were released and thought they were nice but not astonishing. But when I was looking for a wildcard – ie, just perusing what was stocked and wanted something that simply caught my attention — I included the third, supposedly strongest, one in a sample order, Tuberose 3 Animale.

These (ie, the three tuberoses) were released in 2010 and I recall many perfumistas I knew being quite excited. They were meant to be ascending in headiness from Capricious (young? number 1) to Virginale (number 2; can you do a virginal tuberose?) to witchy (number 3).  Per the notes lists, these all look fairly heady, but my recollection of all of them back 15 years ago is gentleness.

Notes for Animale include tuberose, kumquat, neroli, tuberose, prune, herbs, tuberose, tabacco, immortelle and woody notes (the repetition of tuberose is per Fragrantica, it’s not me being odd).

Strangely for a tuberose – as noted above — this is muted. It opens powdery iris – I am sure it’s iris even though it isn’t included in the notes list – and I don’t get anything fruity.

As it heats up we’re still very powdery but there’s something I can’t quite put my finger on. Something candied. Maybe that’s the kumquat? And a very strange whisper of cigarettes (oy, maybe this is the ubiquitous menthol but usually menthol is cool-weird-minty whereas this is ashy and sour), which I find twitch-making and offputting.

Interestingly, after a few hours, I get bittersweet chocolate which provides a lovely grounding aspect and is my favourite point in the perfume: tuberose and chocolate. Quite velvety.

The drydown threw me for a loop. All I could smell was aldehydes (not on notes list) – everything else had receded – and I’m not thrilled by aldehydes except in the best compositions. So, after thinking three-quarters of this being fine, the end really let things down.

If this were still around, I’d call it a tuberose for people who like the idea of tuberose but are put off by the bigger fragrances: Fracas, Tubereuse Criminelle, Poison and Carnal Flower.

Clearly, this is still available on sample sites – and possibly discounters and eBay. I haven’t checked.

So, basically something of a samples fail here. But still an interesting journey.

Pics: Mine

  • Tom says:

    I kind of agree with Shiva-woman on this one. If I want oud (and I rarely do) I will get the real deal.

    Same with tuberose. When I want it I want it to smack you.

    That table looks so wonderful. What a lovely idea. Of course it’s way to hot practically everyplace in the US to do anything like that right now.

    • cinnamon says:

      Yup, with you. Think I’ll change my oud search ‘parameters’. It is looking hot around the US…

  • March says:

    Oh, that festival dinner looks like so much fun! Maybe next year… I thought Shiva-woman’s comment was interesting about just going for the really good ouds and skipping the mainstream. Good luck finding your oud!

    • cinnamon says:

      I think I’m in with Shiva-woman’s thinking. And now that I know about the annual food festival I can watch for it. That long table thing looks so good.

  • Musette says:

    When it comes to tuberose, the bigger the EVEN BIGGER! (I’d say)

    That street dinner looks absolutely delightful! We were trying to do something like that for Harvest, awhile back – nebber happened. Sigh.

    • cinnamon says:

      Apparently it’s been an annual event for the past 8 years. I guess if you live in the town you’d know but even though I walk there at least twice a week I didn’t. Now know for the future. It did look amazing.

  • Dina C. says:

    I’m sorry this was a samples fail for you, Cinnamon. I enjoyed reading your descriptions. It’s sad when samples are off putting like that. Then you don’t even want to wear them a second time or use them up. That long table was amazing!

    • cinnamon says:

      I think I did all of them at least twice but it’s a bit depressing to wear things that aren’t enjoyable. I wrote about them because I had them. I guess that’s the problem with buying online rather than sniffing in store…

  • alityke says:

    I remember sampling the three tuberoses way back when. As a confirmed Poison & Fracas wearer before the interweb went public, my reaction to 1 & 2 was “meh”.
    Tuberose 3? JHK on a bike? Screaming fires of immortelle! At the time I was swapping lots of stuff with Freddie Albrighton & he adored both Tub3 & SL Chypre Rouge.
    As for the Ouds? Not for me

    • cinnamon says:

      Do you like Dior Eau Noire? I was surprised that the l’Histoires were so … quiet. It seems hard to make tuberose quiet and why would you really want to?

      • alityke says:

        Eau Noire was still too immortelley for me. I love licquorice in all edible forms but not keen in fragrances.

  • Portia says:

    WOW Cinnamon, your wear of Animal is so different to mine. You’ve made m,e want to go find my bottle and douse myself. Will do it later and maybe write a reply post,
    For your oud, try https://grandawood.com.au I think they send to the world.
    Portia xx

    • cinnamon says:

      I think I need to pay more attention to whether something I choose to sample is still available. I recall being very excited about the three tuberoses and then not so much. Thanks for the link. Very interesting. And I hope we hear back from you regarding Animale.

  • Shiva-woman says:

    My two cents: I wouldn’t mess around with many commercial “ouds.” They’re mostly synthetic. After smelling real oud, I’m usually disappointed in drugstore/mall market attempts. The quality and longevity of an oud or real oud blend by someone like Areej Le Doré cannot be overstated and worth every penny. Plus, you can get samples, albeit expensive ones but they’ll last you. The top notes and heart notes will be all over the place, light jasmines, roses, or spices, or fruits and even the type of oud used will make a substantial difference. Drydowns will often feature a long wood-oudy musky note. I have Oud Picante and Russian Oud, both of which will last a few lifetimes. I have a few smaller samples including War and Peace (oh sweet heaven). They lean a little masculine but good lord do I love myself wearing them! I highly recommend finding the real (good) stuff and skipping the synthetics. There are many different and varied combinations of ouds/scents, and nothing with a trademark comes close.

    • cinnamon says:

      I sampled War and Peace — posted about it in 2020. I definitely see your point about there not being a good reason to bother with ‘mainstream’ ouds. The difficult thing about AleD fragrances is that when they are gone, they are gone. But perhaps I really need to re-align my oud search, based on what you say in your comments.