It’s dark as pea soup as I write. Almost autumn, but in my mind not till Monday evening after sundown.
Next door, in my neighbour who lost her husband last autumn’s garden, for two days running I’ve seen big cats – once napping, once sitting and taking in its surroundings. No wonder the birds have left.
A few more sightings and I’ll think we’re being protected from something in our small back area of four gardens. Like in the Inspector McLean books where the protagonist is looked after by a huge coven of magical cats.
Anyway, I got a sample of Andy Tauer’s new iteration of the glorious (his second one after Maroc pour Elle) fragrance l’Air du Desert Marocain which is celebrating (if a perfume can do that – I guess of course it can) its 20th anniversary.
This new LDDM has Noir tacked on to the name. So, I’m sort of doing a side by side, but since I don’t currently own a bottle of LDDM this is from memory.
LDDM, like a number of other things, sits on the shadow list of things I eventually will need to own or own again. This is in contrast to the key list which usually holds only one or two names.
LDDM. Released in 2005, LDDM and Maroc were done to be sold in a friend’s shop. LDDM catapulted Andy Tauer into an indy perfume legend. Notes include coriander, cumin, petitgrain, lavender, jasmine, geranium, birch (I think birch tar), labdanum, ambergris, vetiver, cedar, patchouli and oakmoss. I love this and I love it on me. Beyond anything else, it is dry – this incredible dry rendering of nighttime in an arid environment. It starts on me incensy, wanders through herbal, and finishes as a wonderful ambery peppery patchouli soup.
It’s what launched the idea of the Taurade – and I know some people find that base unwearable. But, on me it works very well.
But on to the Noir iteration. Any time I hear Noir I get really hopeful but much of the time the label doesn’t suit the juice – ie, you get something that is more sigh than dark.
Notes for LDDM Noir include bergamot, lemon, petitgrain, spices, labdanum, leather (birch tar?), jasmine, ambergris, oakmoss, cedar vetiver and patchouli.
Yes, this is similar to LDDM but it is not the same.
On me, it works less well vs the original. It is plusher, much less dry. The lemon and bergamot dominate the top vs the incensy dryness I mentioned above in LDDM.
As it unfurls it has something fresh, which I found perplexing. It is plusher than the original LDDM and the leather (birch tar? a different chemical to mimic a leather smell?) is rather muted. More a gentleman than a Bedouin. I actually find the middle development sort of perplexing. Why are you so bloomy and full?
If you’ve seen The English Patient film, LDDM is Ralph Fiennes vs Colin Firth as Noir.
The drydown is sweet amber. Very sweet, in fact, on me.
Alas, in the end it does not feel noir on me.
As ever with these types of things, I am looking forward to reading others’ impressions. I am pleased Andy Tauer marked the release of LDDM as it’s a giant of a perfume. I know some people prefer Lonestar Memories, but there wouldn’t be a Lonestar with LDDM.
This is the regular shape for Tauer Perfumes bottles. I couldn’t find a pic showing Noir that I was happy stealing. In any case, it is dark blue, like LDDM, but there is a sort of late sunset-ish whoosh on the left shoulder. As ever, it’s lovely.
So, thoughts and comments please.
Pics: pexels, mine
I liked LsDM enough to buy a bottle when it came out but didn’t replace it when I ran out. I think I fell harder for LM, But Andy is a genius and I have fallen for many of his. I haven’t tried this yet.
If you like LDDM this is worth a sniff. It’s a different riff.
I tried LDDM when it first came out. I liked it but not enough to want a bottle. The others that I tried were, “meh” and there was one I hated enough to seal and throw in the trash, so Tauer Perfumes and I have parted ways.
Do you remember the one you hated? Always curious about such reactions.
Golistan. I can’t forget it. I should love it. I love ylang ylang, white flowers, roses, and everything else in it, but when I opened the vial, this horrible stench came out. Yes, I checked more than once. I’m pretty sure I got the sample from Luckyscent so it should have been fine. All I can think of is some synthetic or synthetic combination had this effect on me. I’m good with most synthetics, though there are a few I avoid.
LDDM is such a stunner. I adore it. Dry, dry, dry, which I think I appreciated even more at the time as a contrast to Lutens’ market fruits? (which I also love.) The Tauer-ade works well on me, although I don’t mesh with every single one of his fragrances. The man’s a creative genius. I also appreciate the scents’ longevity (which I guess is a mixed blessing if it’s something you don’t like).
Definitely dry. It’s quite a trick. I like that Andy Tauer has always gone his own way.
I did get a spray sample of this from Luckyscent and it arrived on Saturday. Today, I will give it a good. I do have a few bottles of Andy Tauer’s work. The one I love the most but sadly discontinued is Noontide Petals.
Be very interested to hear what you think. Noontime Petals seemed like Tauer veering off a usual path.
The Tauer I remember trying was Rose de Kandahar, which was nice. I don’t think I’ve tried either version of LDDM. It sounds very distinctive and special. So disappointing when that uniqueness gets altered or reformulated.
I liked RdK and the back story. I don’t mind that Tauer did a different riff on LDDM. But it’s not for me.
Tauer is not the house for me. LDDM just didn’t resonate, just way too much. Maroc pour Elle I found pretty, until the base. That made me feel uneasy.
LDDM Noir doesn’t sound for me either. Sweet Tauerade? Ugh!
Maybe Andy Tauer is chasing the millennial crowd who have been exposed to these sweet woodies since discovering fragrance
I remember buying sample of both soon after they were released. Le Maroc didn’t do it for me but LDDM sure did. I don’t think Andy Tauer chases anything. He does what he’s interested in and releases what he thinks is both good and will find an audience.