A Little Bit of Houbigant

Yet another storm, Ingrid, moved through our area last week. Gale force winds for hours. Now, rain. We’re due rain for at least two weeks. I’ve got an orthodontic appointment early evening when the worst of today’s rain is due.

I was going to do Kurkdijian Baccarat Rouge 540 today. Portia has written about this, as have Patty and March. So, I thought I’d get on the bandwagon. That is until I put it on. Someone in the comments on Fragrantica said this smelled like caramel candy in a dental office. I read this after I put it on and indeed that was it on me. The dog came over at one point, smelled me and walked away. So, that’s all you’re getting from me on this. Utter and complete fail.

The next thing I pulled from this set of samples was Figuier Noir from Houbigant. And that sent me off looking for a couple more Houbigant samples to round things out.

So, a handful of Houbigant today. A really old house, from the 1700s. Quelque Fleurs had a big moment on the Makeup Alley fragrance board ages ago. I’m not going to do the history. Here’s a link to wiki on this house: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Houbigant_Parfum

I recall being able to get it from the drug store ages ago or maybe it was secreted in a corner of the local smaller department store when I was in my teens.

Anyway, I popped the Figuier Noir (2022) into the cart because … it’s fig.

This is quite nice. It’s not Noir as in dark but rather specifically black fig. A gentled down Diptyque Philosykos without the coconut. More leaf, wood and fruit. It’s very wearable (fig leaves, cardamon, cloves, black pepper, black fig, iris, jasmine, cedar, patchouli and candied fig). If you like fig fragrances this is definitely worth a look. And the more I sample, the more I like this.

Next up is Quelques Fleurs l’Original Extrait (1913). Boy oh boy is this pretty. If you are a lover of white florals definitely worth a look. It’s the proverbial kitchen sink notes list: bergamot, galbanum, tarragon, lemon, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the valley, violet, rose, ylang, carnation, orange blossom, clove, oakmoss, cedar, musk, orris, sandalwood, civet and tonka bean. I initially get lily of the valley and carnation and ylang. I don’t know why I never sampled this way back when it could be gotten at the local drug store. This is ‘hot’, meaning old style sexy with a good undercurrent of pong.

Finally, Mon Boudoir Privée (1919). I bought this for the name.  Notes: bergamot, pink pepper, Timur pepper, geranium, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, heliotrope, iria, ylang, patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin, Tahitian vanilla, ambergris and musk. Another proper sex bomb perfume. It opens on me vanilla (which doesn’t show up in the list till the drydown), almond (the heliotrope) and pepper. But the vanilla of old-style talcum powder that weirded you out in an older woman’s boudoir when you were a young’un and didn’t know better. Some of Tom’s long-ago actresses must have worn this. The almond is musk-nutty rather than sweet. And there’s this undercurrent of pepper. What an interesting find. NB: And as I was falling asleep hours later I realised I could still smell it and the fragrance had morphed into sugared almonds, but not sickly at all. This is just sex in a bottle.

These generally appear to be available in 100ml sizes and bar the extrait are not stupid pricey (ie, they are below £200; I’ve seen the extrait for between £355 and £395).

I have to say that going down the rabbit hole of a perfume house I’ve long known about but ignored was rewarding in surprising ways.

Pics: wiki parfums, pexels

  • Musette says:

    Wow! Those two BWFs sound right up my alley! I haven’t thought of Houbigant in a million years! Must revisit!

  • Shiva-woman says:

    I’m so relieved about the near-unanimous experience of BR 540. I bought a couple of decants, and thought, “If I was in an unthinking hurry out the door and this was the closest bottle, I might spritz.” It was meh. Not horrible. Not a scrubber. Not memorable. It was kind of sweet and mall-frag generic, musky, synthetic. I think it was APOM that was a stunner. (Angel had this same effect– everyone loved it, and it actually smelled really good on other people, sometimes, but near me, on me, it made me instantly nauseous).

    • cinnamon says:

      I remember there being so much positive noise around BR. I actually like Angel — and thought at times I might buy a bottle but it’s never happened. It became too ubiquitous and then other fun things came along …

  • Maggiecat says:

    BR 540 was a huge disappointment for me – and I love MFK and jasmine and was looking forward to this when it came out. It smells like plastic kiddie pools to me and on me. Just awful….

    Now curious about Houbigants….

    • cinnamon says:

      Plastic kiddie pool… I have to say I was shocked at how bad this was on me. I think the Houbigants are well worth a visit.

  • Tom says:

    I must admit that I really want to try the boudoir one. I have smelled Quelques Fleurs and it’s very pretty but I am afraid that I am never that pretty, so maybe not me.

    I didn’t like Bacarrat Rouge at all. So there.

  • March says:

    Huh. I really need to try these. All of them. I love fig. I feel like I smelled Fleurs back in the day but don’t remember it at all. I’m going to see if I can rustle up some samples. I hope your ortho appt went okay and travel was uneventful!

    • cinnamon says:

      The fig is really nice. I get really cynical about fig perfumes. Philosykos is the gold standard, imho. But this held my interest.

      Teeth are being irritating post new wires but things are moving in the right direction. Travel was ok but this AM flooding everywhere. It’s very quiet outside…

  • Maya says:

    That’s funny – the dog sniffed you and walked away! He and I are on a similar page on MFK perfumes.
    I must admit that I also ignored Houbigant for no reason at all. You caught my attention now. Figuier Noir (2022) definitely has my interest as do the other two. Pretty white flowers sound good and so does sexy! Love the
    l’Original bottle!

    • cinnamon says:

      He usually ignores my perfume or has a sneeze and that’s that—he still wants a pet. But this: he really did turn around and walk away. The Houbigants are very worth sampling.

    • Tom says:

      It’s funny what dogs don’t like. I test these then sit in my office and all the dogs go by and always stop in to say hello and be petted. But that Etat Libra one I last tired was like shark repellent or something. They’d stop at the threshold and retreat. I think it’s the mint.

      I hope it’s the mint..

  • alityke says:

    Mum wore Quelques Fleurs. I have the dregs of her tiny bottle of vintage extrait from the 70’s. I must try the current iterations
    Mon Boudoir Privee sounds phenomenal! Almond & heliotrope scents are a weakness.
    I enjoy eating figs but fig fragrances are not for me.

  • Dina C. says:

    Cinnamon,
    I’m glad you veered away from BR 540 today. It has saffron in it, and I’m not a fan. Saffron just doesn’t agree with my skin or nose. Those Houbigants sound good though! I do enjoy a fig scent. I remember reading years ago that the Quelques Fleurs was Princess Diana’s wedding day scent, or her signature scent. It does sound ultra feminine and pretty for a wedding. Our ice storm has stopped sleeting finally, and today is all about digging a path out. Thank the good Lord, we never lost power or heat!

    • cinnamon says:

      I was sort of surprised at how unpleasant Baccarat was on me. In contrast, the Houbigants were a really pleasant surprise.

  • JillS says:

    Hi, Cinnamon. I smelled Quelques Fleurs and Aperc,u about a decade ago at Bloomies and really liked both. I didn’t buy them because they were expensive, but I wish I did.

    • cinnamon says:

      They are now within the upper tier price-wise to y mind, but not in the really need to think and consider sphere. I will make a note to look at Apercu.

  • Portia says:

    Hey Cinnamon,
    I have an old, beat up bottle of Quelques Fleurs. It’s beautiful and very delightfully old fashioned. Wearing it now feels subversive.
    That fig sounds ultra enticing.
    Portia xx

    • cinnamon says:

      I think Mon Boudoir Privee is the one that made me sit up and really pay attention. And some of the bottles are very well designed.