March did most — all of the legwork on this, and she’s done most of getting this post together because she knows how slammed I’ve been. I am grateful to my dear friend for giving me the research and her comments, it will speed this post up a bit!
From the Abinoam press release:
The brand’s concept is inspired by the eternal inner-struggle between darkness and light. The name Abinoam is an oblique reference meaning “father of kindness” from the Book of Judges. “The meaning of the name is beautiful”, says Kareema, “but when you see it in print or just say it, the word projects a dark, mysterious aura. This one word, I felt, exemplified the spirit of the fragrance”. Kareema took this a step further during the blending process. “Each fragrance was carefully orchestrated so that as the notes dried down, the fragrance became darker and more sensual”. The common theme tying the perfumes together is the use of notes that have been historically used as aphrodisiacs.
Yeah, yeah, light, dark, yin/yang, we get it, this is artsy niche stuff that has a theme and a purpose besides just smelling good.
“Corazn- Intoxicating and seductive, Spicy Kenyan Pink Pepper tempered by Moroccan Jasmine, Floral and Woody Accords all gently caressed into submission by Green Tea and Amber.”
From March: Corazon is absolutely wonderful, with the peppery opening closely followed by the jasmine, uh, caressing the green tea into submission (bleagh — who writes this stuff?!?!). Really, though, the Dance of the Green Tea and Jasmine is a new, different, strange thing that I can’t stop sniffing.
From Patty: I agree. This is a subtle little thing in all its tarting around with the green tea and jasmine. I wore it all day and I’d keep catching whiffs of this really nice scent that was a very different blend. I don’t smell the amber so much, it tends to lie down and behave, which is a good thing for me. This one has some nice lasting power, still going, though fainter, from 6a to 9p tonight. A winner in this line, definitely.
“Desejo- A carnal interpretation of Pomegranate; the beguiling symbol of fertility. Top notes of Pomegranate, Cassis and Peach flow seamlessly into Violet, Ylang Ylang, and Ghanan Cacao before settling on a bed of Bulgarian Blond Tobacco, Vanilla and Amber.”
From March: The Desejo… well, I will say up front — I am not a fruit-salad girl, and a fragrance based around pomegranate, peach and cassis was not designed to seduce me. I find it extremely fruity and overly sweet, and I don’t think the greeen-vanillic ylang tang is improving matters.
From Patty: Now, I dig this one, no big surprise since I like fruity florals. Love the pomegranate right up front, pomegranate and me go together like Kelly Bundy and stupid – except when it is in that nasty cobwebby pomegranate thing from Jo Malone – and it does go on a little sweet, and then the vanilla kicks in. This feels like my vacation in the Turks and Caicos — slow, lazy, rich, a little sweet, but in a way that feels good, not little girly. I’ve had more trouble with this in the drydown. Not that I dislike it, but just in figuring out what is working and what isn’t. If you don’t like fruity florals, this one is not going to change your mind a bit, but if you are fond of them, this is one you will love. It turns into a very subtle thing. Hard to describe.
“Cobice- Luxurious exotic notes of Indonesian Patchouli and Leather Accords juxtaposed with the sweetness of Green Apple and Bamboo Flowers.”
From Patty: The notes in this just screamed MISTAKE!!! Who in the hell throws green apple, leather and patch together? It was with great trepidation that I put it on, held my breath and got ready with the lysol. Holy Moly, this is some great juice. I love apple in a perfume done well, and the bamboo and leather and patchouli just hold it together nicely so it doesn’t go over the top. As the apple tart-sweet top notes fade fairly quickly, this turns into a great scent, the sweetness lessening into a – don’t laugh – slightly fruity leather, and I mean that in a really good way. It’s just not like anything else I’ve smelled. I’ve only got a sample of this, but this is going to require a bottle just to be sure, it needs spritzing.
“Beleza- A warm, sexy Oriental fragrance. Sandalwood from Mysore and Musk form the scenery in which delicate Orchid flowers and the bouquet of Tahitian Vanilla Bean dance together in a beautiful ballet.”
From Patty: Now, this is the one I like the least, and in this grouping, that’s not putting it into a scent that I don’t like since I’ve quite liked all four, loved a couple of them – but mostly because I’m not a big sandalwood fan. As sandalwoods go, it’s a good blend, and I’d certainly wear it, though just these particular notes aren’t ones that appeal to me on first read, and the top notes don’t do it for me, but the drydown is lovely. The Vanilla Bean peeps through mildly and pretty much brings this together.
Surprise! – the press release on the deepening and getting richer part is true. All four of these scents go through a lot of changes and turn into four very wearable and very different scents.
The line is available from La Creme and the always awesome Autumn. It runs $105 for 50ml. So not an inexpensive line at all, but in line with the other high end niche perfumes. And the bottles with the little atomizers are adorable and really work pretty well. If you’re on the fence and love the bottle, go buy one!