TFPB — Moss Breches and Tobacco Vanille

(images from W Magazine)

Now, I need to say right off the bat that reviewing these Tom Fords is tricky. First, there are 12 of them, which is a lot for the nose to sort through; and second, everyone has an in-built prejudice about Tom Ford… over Black Orchid or just that they think he is a media slut/darling or some other thing.  I don’t really have a strong feeling about Black Orchid or Tom Ford, I just like to see what he will do next… and I sorta wanna be that mannequin *blush*.  Come on, admit it, Tom is totally hot. Not sure what team he plays for, but I don’t really need that info for my fantasies.

My fear for these scents is that people will sniff all 12 quickly and move on, flip off the gorgeous, urbane Tom on the way out and not spend the time you need to with each one. These are well done, each very different from the other, though I did not think that as I started just sniffing the bottles, and worth close inspection, but I recommend a slow review of them for yourselves — try one or two a week or a month or a year.  I’ve been living with them for a few days now, and they grow on me as I try each one and give it the proper time to evaluate.  Now, my best guess is that most people will not find more than one or two they would want to plunk down the cash for a full bottle at the price point they are.  My belief is because I see many of the people who have been trying them gravitating to one or two scents and loving them, and they are completely different from what someone else is choosing.   If they were cheaper, $100 or less for 50 ml, my guess is a lot of people would find several worth having. Do I think they are overpriced? Sure!   Isn’t most perfume? I find the L’artisans, much as I love many of them, to be ridiculously overpriced at now $120 for 100 mls. To Tom’s credit (yeah, first-name basis *rolls eyes*), the ingredients seem to be of excellent quality — they don’t smell cheap in the least.

The 50 ml bottle is $175, which is in the same price range as the Armani Prives. They do have the much larger 250 ml bottle for $450, which is a bargain, get two! — well, relative bargain — and especially so if several people elected to split one (I probably will do a one-time bottle split later on, one at a time, after people have had a chance to try them, but I would do big splits of it only, at least a 1-2 ounces for each split, so about 65 for 1 oz and $130 for 2 oz — so don’t despair!  — hit the contact us button over on the right if you might be interested), though you will all be fighting over possessing the bottle, which is truly gorgeous — hefty, simple, classic — Tom does great bottle.  Lasting power on most of these has been quite good. Now, remember, I think four hours is perfect hang time for a scent, but I try and forget that when I comment on longevity.  The Tobacco Vanille lasted overnight on me, leaving a beautiful skin scent the next day that was enchanting — I can still smell it after 24 hours, just softer and closer to my skin — but I don’t know if that is true for all of them since I pretty much doused myself in all of them the first two days and have recently started showing some restraint and doing two at a time *squirms*.

Moss Breches — there is nothing not to love here unless you hate green notes!  Notes of fresh wood, spice, beeswax absolute, Moroccan clary sage, Hungarian tarragon, Corsican rosemary, labdanum, patchouli, benzoin. This is my favorite in the line so far because it is everyday wearable, but more particularly because I am a Green Note Ho. This feels like a green chypre from decades ago – a grown-up girl smell.  The sage and tarragon lend some zip to it so it doesn’t meander off into boring on the open. As it dries down, more of the labdanum, patch and benzoin show up to give it teeth and depth, and that’s where it captivates me completely. It is green on the open, and then turns into a wonderfully wearable and elegant woody green chypre. ’tis love.

Tobacco Vanille — I pretty much did not expect to like this one at all.  Notes of tobacco leaf, spice notes, tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilla, cocoa, dry fruit, sweetwood sap  I hate The Nazgul (Hermessence Ambre Narguile) with a passion, and some of the notes in this sounded suspiciously like relatives. Are they?  Kinda and kinda not. There are some similarities, especially on the open, but, for me, Tobacco Vanille is a warm, fuzzy lovable Nazgul.  The tobacco, spice and tonka are pronounced and blended beautifully together to hold off the sweet vanilla, fruit and sap notes in the open, keeping them in a great tension between earthy tobacco and sweet fruity vanilla.  I was sniffing through it on tenterhooks, afraid it might go the wrong way, but no! It finds a lovely balance between the gorgeous tobacco and the other notes quickly in the drydown and truly smells like a slightly sweet pipe tobacco.  The most charming thing was how it smelled the next day, softer, warmer, richer. If you have a favorite memory in your life of a beloved that smelled like rich pipe tobacco (my dad did), you will adore this smell. You may adore it even without this memory, but this is a scent I’ll happily curl up with any time, it gives me a wonderful hug.  Men or women should feel perfectly at home in this.

Currently, all of these are available from Bergdorf Goodman in NYC. I recommend the lovely Helga at 212-872-2581. 

  • donanicola says:

    Yes, I thanked Marina for part 2 of her sniffathon which did not induce one iota of lust. I knew I was “saving” money for something else…. lol! Thanks for the reviews, Patty – I shall be along to FF tout suite (I think that’s the phrase – O level french…)

  • Solander says:

    I’m with Lee – Tom is too macho (is he dancing with a RealDoll? Eww…) I like the nerds too, and the effeminate dandies. Machismo is only attractive in butches.

    And the scents sound lovely, especially Moss Breches! I’m partial to the weird name because I’m partial to moss, I just love real moss, the sight and feel and smell of it. Haven’t found the perfect moss perfume yet, sometime’s there’s a nice moss note but it always turns out too dry and powdery in the end…

  • Gina says:

    Love this blog. You guys make me laugh. Ok, Tom Ford, I can see why one would find him hot, but he’s a little too groomed and perfect for me. I like a bit o’ rough and dirty looking. He’s just way too pretty. Which on the gay vs not vote, I’d probably say gay. But hey, maybe he doesn’t like labels and wants to keep his options open.

    I got my samples today and tried both MB and TV. I didn’t go nuts as I sometimes do and cover every bit of exposed skin, I restrained myself and only tried the two. I really like the Moss Breches. The first herby blast of it made me sigh with happiness. I also like the Tobacco Vanille, as I am a fan of Amber Narguile and could definitely smell the simularities at first. It fades to this lovely comforting tobacco scent which I’m really digging. I’m sort of hoping I don’t get the full bottle itch from any of them, but I have a feeling this won’t be the case, as I’m already thinking I’d like these two. Yikes.

    • Gina says:

      Ok, I couldn’t resist…I put on the Japan Noir, too. I LOVE these three and that scares me. I think I should go the decant route first, but those bottles are gorgeous. Maybe just one or two…ahhhh. Must force myself to live with them a while.

  • pitbull friend says:

    Oh, dear hearts! What fun listening to you all riffing off each other! I’m glad you’re going to dole these out gradually, Patty. The pipe tobacco sounds heavenly.

    “Moss Breches” is totally weird because “moss” is “mousse” en francais and “moss” is not a word in French. Anyway, moss that grows in the gap of a tree?

    The amazing things one learns here (besides Patty & March’s lovely but filthy thoughts) — never heard that “had rudes with” before. Will try to work it into conversation soon. Thanks, Lee! –Ellen

    • Judith says:

      Agree about the weird Franglis. But if they’re willing to do “Tobacco Vanille,” they could do anything. I like the suggestion above about the mossy nook, although it leads to all sorts of verboten thoughts. :d

  • Teri says:

    Being one of those tiresome people who always wins at trivia games, ‘breche’ is equivalent to the English word ‘breach’, as in a breach of honor, or breach of contract. Alternate meanings would be a gap, or an entrance, or the breaking of a wave upon the shore. None of which appears to me to be germane to the name of a fragrance, nor to fit particularly well with ‘Green’.

    I’ll leave it up to the rest of you to interpret the hunky Mr. Ford’s intent here.

    But I must say, the fragrance itself sounds pretty great — and if it conjures up visions of Captain Kangaroo’s sidekick, who gives a rip? lol

    • Judith says:

      Yes, I knew that (that’s why I suggested moss gaps or holes). But
      a)–I’m not completely sure it’s French here, because there’s no accent grave over the first “e”–although Chaya suggested it means something similar in German) and
      b) as you note, it makes no sense! 🙂 (none that I understand, anyway).

      So I am still wondering. . . .

      • AHTX says:

        Could it be meant as something along the lines of “nook” or “hidden place?” You know, that little mossy spot by the side of the creek, deep in the woods…

        All logic and grammar aside, of course.

        • Lee says:

          It makes me think, metaphorically, of the mossy nook on a woman, if you know what I mean. Too rude?

  • tmp00 says:

    Tom is hot but for some reason judt doesn’t quite do it for me: there’s something too studied about him. I guess I am going to have to try these, damn you Patty! After I sepnt time publicly congratulating myself over at Marina’s that I could skip her reveiwed sniffs! :((

    • Patty says:

      Yeah, studied bad boy, but he sure looks like fun! At least for the one night, and then you wake up the next morning to find the pictures of his mom on the dresser and a rolodex full of boys’ names, and you realize he is going to take up way too much mirror time and break your heart.

      Hahaha, my lemmings are yours, of course, I’m happy to share! Isn’t L.A. going to get these somewhere? I could have sworn they were on the exclusive list of six places in the world that would have them.:-w

      I think Marina ie soing to be reviewing them next week, it sounds like, so you really ARE in truuuuubbbleee!!!

  • Gaia says:

    I think I know just what you mean. Tom might be willing to indulge me, but I doubt that either one of us would get what we really need out of such an encounter. Better to fantasize about Clooney, instead.

    • Gaia says:

      And that was supposed to be a reply to Lee. I’m so out of it this morning. Insert the appropriate smiley.

    • Patty says:

      Yeah, exactly! Black Orchid and Black Violet are the same as Tom — hot and repulsive at the same time. Velvet Gardenia strikes me that way too, but I’m ambivalent about gardenia anyway, so that computes properly.

    • Judith says:

      I don’t know–since it’s a fantasy in either case, the sexual preferences of the fantasy-object don’t really make a difference, do they? I mean, I have about as much a chance of having a satisfying sexual encounter with Tom Ford as I do with George Clooney, I think.:d So one can dream. . .

  • Gaia says:

    The green sounds nice enough, but the fuzzy baby Nazgul has a good chance of having me swooning. I’m not sure how I feel about Tom. He’s hot and repulsive at the same time. But Black Orchid has grown on me so much that I get actual cravings. Tobacco Vanille might work the same way for my vanilla loving skin.

  • Lee says:

    You tarties, all desperado to get your filthy paws on Tom’s silky drawers. I’m lovin’ it (am I channeling musicals and McDonalds today? wtf…)

    Well, I’ve tried none of them (Angleterre…), Tom doesn’t make me hot at all (too studiedly macho for my effete tastes – I like a nerdy boy), and he’s as bi as I am. Meaning, I had rudes with girls in my youth and either failed to make them happy or spent too long focused on making them happy in one way so I could avoid disappointing them in another. Read that how you wish.

    It’s only been the other sex since 20. Long-term bisexual?:d

    • Patty says:

      I like nerdy boys too, but, um, Tom is a studly nerdy boy.

    • Louise says:

      Rudes? With girls? How impolite!

      So glad that we girls won’t be competing with you for Tom’s attention.

      Verrrry long-term bisexual! (I assume you’re over 21).

      Can’t wait, though , to hear your views on Tom’s products…

      • Lee says:

        I am some distance for 21, yes.

        And yes, folks, I was a teenage male slut (with girls more than boys…).

  • Flor says:

    Tom Ford is so so HOT! I don’t know if he’s gay or straight, but I do know we could be happy together!

    Although I didn’t care for Black Orchid, I have no prejudice against his new scents and can’t wait to try them. Moss Breches sounds like it would suit me perfectly. 🙂

    • Patty says:

      No, no, Tom always says if he goes straight, it will be with me. At least that’s what he says in my head.’

      The Black Violet is the closest to Black Orchid, but not the same, just in feel.

  • judith says:

    Oh, c’mon Patty–it starts with an F. Interesting theory.

  • Judith says:

    Ok–I was very briefly in NY on Friday, and ran to smell the Tom Fords. I think that you are right: sniffing them all at once from the bottles is overwheming and very confusing–but I did immediately find two loves. One is the very popular GreenJeans (what does MB really mean? Is it really moss pants? moss gaps or holes?? what?? I have an image, sorta like Maria’s of a Pan/satyr/woodland creature with a furry green bottom). Everyone in the store liked this best on me (and so I got it), but when I got home I immediately fell in in love with my sample of Oud Wood; despite all attempts from my rational side to talk me down–“you can buy a decant from Patty you know”–I called and bought a bottle of that too (lovely bottles) and they said they will send me samples of all they have. Meanwhile, I tried the Tobacco (the other sample I had) and liked it better than I remembered. It starts out a bit vanillic for me, but then dries down into a lovely pipe tobacco that does, indeed, remind me of my father. But while I loved my father dearly, I don’t know that I want to smell like him; so, not FBW for me (maybe a decant or something, though; it does get better the more one tries it). The other ones that I am particularly eager to try again are the Amber (liked it in the bottle, but it was a bit much on my skin), and the leather (didn’t like it in the bottle–don’t remember why–maybe too sweet–but it seems as if I should like it, so I will try again:). If I don’t get the ones I want, I will come calling (who am I kidding, I will come calling soon in any case:) Got my notepads and have already used them for swaps!:x PS–I don’t want to take business away, but I would encourage anyone who is in NY to try to cadge samples from BG; the SAs are quite generous and the carded samples are decent size sprays.

    • Patty says:

      Oh, I *knew* several of these have your name on them. 🙂 They layer pretty amazingly well too. Damn that Tom!

      • Judith says:

        The three I have (OW, MB, and TV) seem to have some base in common that would, indeed, facilitate layering—a Tom-ade? Did you find that generally true?

        • Patty says:

          Yup, pretty much. I put one on one arm and another on the other, then put both arms in front of my nose, and it creates something else. I don’t like just spritzing them on top of each other, but side by side totally works.

          F’rinstance, I’m not over the moon about the Tuscan Leather for the first few hours, and I’m still deciding, but put next to, say, the Japan Noir, it adds something to the Noir, and the Noir softens and makes it richer.

          I keep thinking the Tuscan Leather must smell like Tom’s leather pants. Did I say that? Yes, yes, I did.

  • March says:

    Got my pkg yesterday!:x I am lurving the Moss Britches — my hand levitated to that and the Violet Noir or whatever it’s called.

    I didn’t think I was a green note ho, but that’s how it’s shaping up. I like them Britches a lot.

    The Violet on me gets a B … for Buttcrack. Lord, what is in that thing? It’s kind of the same assnote as Black Orchid. Not that I’m complaining, precisely.

    Okay, the Tom Ford is Bi news is only fueling some wildly unlikely fantasies that I will do you a favor and not elaborate on further.

    PS Diva ran off with the notepads — will search her room later.

    • Patty says:

      I figured you for loving Mr. Green Jeans.

      Violet Noir? Black Violet or Japan Noir? Black Violet does have a buttcrack thing on it. I keep trying it, going back and forth between hate it/love it/laughter and think Tom is a genius for coming up with something that will cause so much consternation and bitching.

      Well, I was just checking on his leanings only so I could properly situate him in my fantasies… with me and Jack Gylenhaal, I think. Or Christian Bale maybe.

      • March says:

        Black Violet. I think I like it, filthy note and all. I mean, you can’t say you smell it every day, right? I’m wondering if it would layer with something.

        Tom and Harry Potter. There — I’m on the fast track to hell.>:)

  • Elle says:

    Must confess that I have a total crush on Tom. Who cares what he says? He’s just so damn gorgeous. And he *does* claim to be bi. OK…the rational part of my mind doesn’t believe it for one second, but the part that is mesmerized by his looks and style, *totally* buys into it. 🙂 Haven’t cared for any of his perfumes so far (no, not even the ones for EL), but I have deep fears that my name is on at least a few of these. Am also a green scent sl*t and Moss Breches sounds dangerously (to the budget) amazing.

    • Patty says:

      I think he just means more than one guy at a time by “bi.” :-w What a tease.

      Now, I did like Youth Dew Amber Nude and Black Orchid, but I never wore them. The Azuree I like, but, again, never wear.

      There are some of these that I love. I doubt you would like the Purple patchouli or the Black Violet, though I’m still undecided on both of those. Mr. Green Jeans is amazing. I’m proud of our boy Tom on these, and I didn’t think I would be.

  • Louise says:

    Oh, I am very much liking Japan Noir, though I haven’t deciphered the notes well. It’s just…warm and cool and very, oh, sexy-ish (to me-SO is away on business).

    I will go slow on these samples as advised. I sense they will morph on me a lot, and given the price, I want to be very cautious to not fall in love too quick.

    Hmmm…yes, I beleive deeply that Mr. Ford is gay…and that I love him deeply. By the way, I think “gay as stick” may come from the very-less-than-polite usage of the term used for “bundle of sticks” in reference to gay people.

    • Patty says:

      You already got yours too?!?!? The mail service just blows me away. Japan Noir is gorgeous. That’s going to be one of the next ones I do, probably with Bois Rouge, which grew on me — like a wearable Chypre Rouge. The drydown was incredible.

      I think you’ve got it exactly right, be sure. They will either grow on you or not, and at that price point, who wants to be wrong?

      Bundle of sticks? *pondering* In some pejorative way? *pondering more* 😕

      • Tigs says:

        I will definitely stop using it if the phrase has a pejorative meaning! I don’t get the connotation of “bundle of sticks” either – but perhaps it’s best I remain in the dark and just stop using it anyway. My husband picked it up off of somebody else, and I’m sure he doesn’t know what it means or he wouldn’t use it in front of me: I’m passionately defensive of my brother, who will probably marry his partner, maybe at the drag queen bar where he works. (Wonderful place, Canada!)

        • tmp00 says:

          I don’t think it’s perjorative. In “Olde Englishe” a faggot was a bundle of sticks of something.

          I always wonder where “gay as a goose” came from? I don’t find waterfowl especially gay. Flamingoes maybe, but geese? 😕

  • Gail S says:

    Ooooh, another green note ho here! I can hardly wait for my samples to get here! Green Pants sounds wonderful.

    • Patty says:

      Poor Tom, I bet he had no idea that Moss Breches would quickly become Green Britches or Mr. Green Jeans or whatever. But it is lovely, as are many of them. I was surprised at how well done they were given there were so many.

      Your sample should be there soon. I can’t believe March got hers already!

  • Maria B. says:

    Here I have to confess that the name Moss Breches makes me think of a woodland male creature, such as a satyr or even a leprechaun, dancing around in a sylvan glade wearing Moss Breeches. Could be comfortable; I don’t know. You do make the fragrance sound wonderful, Patty.

    I received the Perfume Posse official notepad, and it rocks! It’s a perfect size for my purse. I’m sure that tomorrow I’ll have a chance to whip it out during our special tour of a nursery with our old gardening club–and I do mean old. Wonder what the over-75 crowd will make of the logo.

    • Patty says:

      MB does rock, though I keep finding others to love in there, too.

      Didn’t the notepads turn out pretty great? I’m having a blast with them and contemplating putting other sayings on them later on!

  • Tigs says:

    P, I have it on good authority that Tom Ford, as my husband says, “is as gay as a stick” (I’ve never understood the saying, but I don’t think the DH means it rudely.) Ford is apparently always proclaiming to one and all that he is “bi”, however, so your fantasies can live on!

    And I covet that Moss Breches. Please, birthday, come swiftly and save me from my sampling budget!

    • Patty says:

      Wonder why he does that? He puts of a bi leaning to gay vibe and only minorly dabbling on the other side out of… duress? 🙂 But I don’t care, he’s great eye candy.

      The Moss breches is amazing. Several of them are. As much as I very much liked the Chanels, I find many of these to be better, more diverse. It was just too many at one time, but everyone can rectify that and just ignore 10 of them or more at a time. 🙂