That’s right…. ME!!!! I am so jacked, I can’t even concentrate enough to do a review. A friend and I are going late October into early November. Not the best time for weather, but I far prefer bundling up and walking than wanting to walk naked, which with my aged, menopausal gams and abs is never a good idea. But the ticket is bought, we have the hotel or my uncle’s apartment, not sure which, and we are ready to go.
So for all readers who have been there before, tell me the top five things I have to sniff/do/see. I’ve got the list of all the stuff that we know I have to do, like:
- Guerlain
- Worship at the altar of Caron
- Printemps
- Serge
- Malle
- Sephora
- bon marche
- Parfumerie Generale
- de rosine
- the perfume museum, if we can get in
Feel free to add to this list, it’s not comprehensive, just right off the top of my head. I’ll also make sure to go to the Louvre, Notre Dame, Chartres (I know it’s out a ways, but I need to go), Arc, no Eiffel Tower elevator ride, very afraid of heights. What else do I need to make sure I do, either sniffing or just sight-seeing? We have about ten days to fill, and I’m already certain it won’t be enough.
Okay, I think I did a quick review on Sarrasins before, but now I get to spritz with abandon and not horde two drops and try and parcel them out to my friends like drunks parceling whiskey at the monastery. It’s dirty in all the best ways. It’s all jasminey, slightly camphorous on the top, but there’s a definitely feral, musky undercurrent in it. The longer I had it on, and it lasted overnight, the more musky and skanky it got, leaving just faint whiffs of some wild indiscretion with someone I’ll never see again. Warren sniffed it for me, after I put it under his nose and said, “It’s a dirty bitch, isn’t it?” — love that my husband actually knows what I’m talking about when I say things like that. He sniffs, pulls back, says no, then sniffs again, closer to the skin and said, “What a slut!” Exactly. Not sure it’s for everyone, but it’s now my favorite jasmine, right up there with Montale Jasmin Full.
So in celebration of my impending trip (yes, it’s my first time to Paris, wheee!!!), let’s give away two no, three samples of Serge Lutens Sarrasins in gleeful anticipation when I can get frowned at for wearing my Hollister sweat pants into that snooty little shop in the Palais Royale. So just drop a comment (please don’t e-mail me instead, those entries don’t count) in the comments below, and you’ll be entered!
I check out your site for the first time & find you are heading off to one of my favorite cities. For some ideas on what to do while in Paris check out my friend Cara Black’s site at carablack.com . If you love Paris as much as I love parfum you might want to try one of her gloriously French murder mysteries as well; great reading for the plane. While you are indulging in wine, parfum & the heady atmosphere, I would love to be entranced by Sarrasins; please enter my in the drawing.
paris is awesome, a fragrance lover’s dream! be sure to go to monoprix, tati, the diptyque store is beautiful and you get to smell and try everything…the porte de clignancourt market is great too, but haggle haggle haggle! centre georges pompidou is a cool hangout, great for people watching. typical mall (but so parisian) is Les Halles, has its own stop on the metro. best restaurant deal ever: la cuillere en bois 108 rue des entrepreneurs, metro stop:commerce. a prix-fixe menu with homemade quiche, crepes, wine or cider included, homemade chocolate sauce–need i say more? tel: 01 45 31 62 01. any questions, email me! please enter me in the drawing, i am hopelessly outdated and uncool as far as my boutique fragrances go! lol bon voyage!
congratulations!!!!! Oh paris is sosososososo beautiful. if you so happen to need a lift out that fragrant haze that is paris, do pass by centre de georges pompidou, and the chanel flagship store, and oh yes, their world-famous flea market on the outskirts of paris. also, there’s versailles to visit, and consequently, ISIPCA and Osmetheque. do also visit the pantheon where rousseau’s crypt is.
PErfume places: fragonard and molinard are everywhere.
and did someone say jasmin? throw me in the tub! wheeeee!!!!!:@):@)
Would love to have a sample. P;ease enter me in your drawing. So jealous, in a good way…Hve Fun!
Patty, I’m so happy for you!!! I can’t wait to hear all about your trip. You’ll be living my dream come true!!
Please enter me too!
enter me pretty please!
Wow. Congrats! Please enter me in the drawing. Thank you, Devon
Congratulations!
Rodin museum, absolutely. An afternoon tea at Hotel Crillon to soothe aching feet and fatigued nose. Aperitive and Hotel Costes and dinner at Café de l’Homme, across the Seine from Eiffel tower, hence the view of the lit tower will be great. Downside, the place is noisy, but book in advance and enjoy the view.
Please add me to the draw as well.
I’m so excited for you Patty! Not sure how long you’re planning to go for, but make sure to slow down and pace yourself. There’s so much to see that it’s tempting to run around like crazy and wear yourself out. I second the recommendations above to try visiting smaller museums (Musee d’Orsay is lovely, have heard great things about the Rodin Museum too). The Louvre is overwhelming, so its best to pick a small section that sounds interesting rather than the wings with all the art biggies. The Decorative Arts wing was much quieter, and buried somewhere in there is a costume and fashion section (which sadly I missed somehow).
Do the Opera House if you can (right near Galleries Lafayette). It’s totally nutty in its over-the-top decor. They will let you into the little boxes to view the elaborate theatre. It gets your imagination going… wondering what intrigues went on, who swept by in their jewels & taffetta gowns etc.
Daytrips: Sadly Monet’s house & garden in Giverny will probably be closed for the season by the time you get there, but there is of course Chartres, Rouen, Versailles, Fontainbleu etc.
I recommend taking a boat cruise on the Seine. Batobus was reasonable, and you can hop on and off all day. I found cruising around a relaxing change of pace, and the river quays are beautiful.
Be sure to pack a raincoat & a sturdy umbrella, the weather in Paris turns on a dime, and when it rains, it REALLY rains (as in deluge!).
I’m so looking forward to reading your account when your return! And if its not too late, please enter me in the Sarrasins draw!:d
You’re more than covered scent-wise, and I second the recommendation to extensively shop the Gallerie and use the discount. Saved me a moolah and a half.
My suggestion is: Eat cake. I’m the queen of healthy eating, but in Paris with all those amazing pastry shops and bakeries, one must indulge. And macaroons! Not the coconutty thing we bake here, just amazing, airy sweetness. Have fun!
🙂 Ohhhhhh Paris …. how wonderful for you P.!
I’ve never been to Europe at all, so hope that you have a divine time.
Please could you put my name into the draw for the scent, if I’m not too late?
Thanks and BON VOYAGE!!<:-p
Patty,
Have a great, wonderful, lovely, supercalifragi*** time. I love the Jeu de Paume and Tuileries, along with Ile de la Cite, Rive Gauche and just about everything else.
Please enter me in the drawing..
CIndyN
that’s actually my favorite time to visit there – the light is absolutely amazing, and yes, it’s cool enough to walk all over the place without burning up. but then again, i hate the heat and humidity, so factor that in.
please enter me in your drawing.
Have an amazing time! Please enter me in the drawing. Thanks.
Patty- that is soo exciting!!! I can not wait to hear your report once you are back..(patience!!)..
Do enter me in the draw- would love to smell Sarrasins
so many, many great ideas and thoughts, and I think all of you!
I promise, if I can get an internet connection while I’m away, I’ll post regularly.
You guys are the best, and this is why I love you. I go to sleep, wake up and check in and have Paris at my fingertips in all of your comments.
Mwah!!!! xoxoxoxoxo
Well, P, I am late as per usual. At this point, everyone has given you great input. So, I won’t bore you with a re-hash.
But, if there were two (or three) tips that I could give you it would be:
1. Have lunch at the Jules Verne Restaurant in the Eiffel Tower. Yes, it’s totally pricey, but you will never forget it. Book your reservations now. Just google jules verne restaurant paris, and you will get to the website. You can fax your reservation request, and they will respond promptly, I promise!
2. Go up to Belleville in the 20th arrondisment. This is where Edith Piaf was born and where she sang on its street corners. There is a park up in Belleville, Parc de Belleville off Rue des Couronnes, that is the highest point in Paris…yes, higher than Montmartre. The view is absolutely spectacular. Take Rue de Couronnes down to Boulevard de Belleville. Every Tuesday (and I think Saturday, but could be wrong) there is an open air market right down the middle of the boulevard. They sell everything, maybe even the kitchen sink. It’s a wonderful way to see a different side of Paris, as the neighborhood is a great mix of people from all over the world.
Continue down Boulevard de Belleville. It will turn into Menilmontant Avenue which takes you to the cemetery Pere Lachaise. Many famous people are buried there including Mme. Piaf, Chopin (beautiful grave!), Jim Morrison and Oscar Wilde (you have to see his tomb to believe it!).
3. Eat at Chez Francis, where Avenues Montaigne and Georges V meet for a spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower. Also, Publicis on the Champs Elysees is a great place to eat, drink and watch the sun set over the Arc de Triomphe. When you see that sun set, you will then understand the meaning of “L’Huere Bleue”! They even sell Serge Lutens fragrances in their famous “drugstore”!
Okay, I have taken up way-ay too much of your time, darling. I wish you the best time ever in the City of Light!
Oh, and yes please…enter me in the drawing. And when you go to Lutens, just look for a young man. I think his name is Marco, and he is the furthest thing from snooty! Also, Naomi or Francois at the Guerlain flagship store. Both of these ladies are extremely gracious, helpful and knowledgable.
Hugs and love!
What a fabulous trip! I’ll bet you’re bouncing around instead of walking in anticipation.
I’ve only been in Paris once, and alas, it was only to change plans on my way to Zagreb. To be so close to nirvana and yet not enter the gates was rough, indeed. But now that the offspring are educated….hmmmm…a future trip might just be doable.:d
What a bounty of marvelous suggestions you’ve gotten today! If you take advantage of them all, you’ll have to stay an additional month and you’ll come home with at least 25 extra pounds! lol But if you don’t finish everything on the list, it’s a great excuse to go back..soon.
Have a marvelous time. And if I may be entered in the drawing, I’d love to participate.
To borrow a phrase from Homer Simpson…”Doh!”
That was meant to be ‘planes’ I was changing, not ‘plans’. #-o
New reader here…I’ve been enjoying your blog for a few weeks or so.
I’m so excited for you for your trip to Paris.
P.S. I’m a newbie to perfume but I have some vintage Joy and am in love with Le Maroc Pour Elle…so I can’t wait to explore more jasmine scents.
Congrats on your trip (and please enter me in the drawing).
Chartres is beautiful, and I thought the cathederal was lovelier than Norte Dame. We took the train from Paris for a nice day away from the city. My trip 4 years ago was BP (Before Perfume), so I have no advice in that regard. I know you’ll have a wonderful time!
Oh, Patty, how utterly stupendous. All I can do is add my warmest wishes to everyone else’s, and to second two suggestions that have been made only once each by others, since you’ve got such a splendidly well-informed set of recommendations already. Do just spend some time strolling around the Left Bank. Wander down the windy side streets, eat street food, just bask in Being in Paris. And Pere Lachaise is a must, too.
Once upon a time, I loved the original Gault-Millau guide to Paris. I don’t know if it’s worth the investment now that they’ve expanded and formalized a much bigger line of guides.
My only possible mite to contribute: If you have any interest in wine, do visit De Vinis Illustribus
(I don’t think the whole site is available in English, but at least this page is). You can fit it into a Left Bank ramble :).
What’s special is not so much the existing shop (although I hear that it’s pretty amazing too), but its history. Jean-Baptiste Besse, who had the original shop at this address, was one of the most notable wine figures of the twentieth century. I had the extraordinary good fortune to meet him about ten years before his death, but that’s a story for another time and place. I’m sure there are many such stories available at the existing shop, though!
Paris, Sarrasins giveaway and Patty!
What more does any perfume nut need?
Please enter me in the drawing!!
Ooh…please enter me in the drawing. And go forth and rock Paris!
Sounds lovely! Please enter me in the draw. I would definitely add a trip to Chanel (just because I am a big Chanel perfume fan) and Dior (to smell the perfumes you can’t get in the U.S.A.).
My grandmother (and some extended family) lived in Paris. Growing up in the rural American Southwest Paris was the only big city I knew. I know it as well as my home town and yet there are still tons of things I haven’t experienced yet.
If anything, I would suggest that less is more. Leave some for the next visit (you’ll be hooked) and spend time just soaking up the vibe. Chartres is lovely, but Notre-Dame is equally if not more so (but minus the intact stained glass) and Chartres takes a whole day. On the other hand, Versailles and gardens really is all that, and one visit wont be enough to see it all.
Big museums are big and extraordinary, but many of the small ones are sometimes more memorable because less overwhelming. Someone suggested Musée Cognacq-Jay which is very nice. My favorite is Nissim-Cammondo, a former private mansion full of 18th C French objects/furnishings. The visit is short, amazingly atmospheric, and vividly conveys life from another time, afterward you can stroll in the lovely Parc Monceau.
My last visit there I ate at Le Violon d’Ingres, a side resto for the chef from the Ritz. Massively rich, old-school French comfort food (not too haute, but haute enough). Just steps from Eiffel Tower. Highly recommended.
I second the Musee D’Orsay–the building, a golden age rail station, is as beautiful as the collection. It’s the not the season but Bertillon on the Ile St. Louis makes the most wonderful sorbets & ice creams. I had orange sanguine, thyme, figue et rose…one every day I was there! The water taxi at 10E for a day pass was a deal: transportation to all the major sights and when it gets dark–paris by night tour!
I’ve only been to Paris once, for a couple of days, and I regret that I knew nothing about perfume at the time. Wasted opportunities :(( But I can recommend the Musee D’Orsay, especially if you like Art Deco, and the Rodin Museum (the gardens won’t be in bloom, but I bet it’ll still be wonderful).
Love to try that Sarrasins! Please enter me!
Are you planning on visting some of the “past” greats, such as Edith Piaf at 5, rue Crespin du Gast, 75011 (her musee) or at Père Lachaise?
Musee d’Orsay- a must see if you’re a fan of art from 1800-1920
Rodin Museum and Gardens- the gardens are incredible
Monet’s home at Giverny- probably better in the spring, but absolutely amazing
the little water art fountain outside the Centre Pompidou
and just take a stroll around Rive Gauche and enjoy the little shops, restaurants and cafes.
Also, L’Opera. Incredible artwork on the ceiling by Chagall.
Cograts on the Paris trip – it sounds divine. I am sooo jealous!!
Please toss my name in the Sarrasins sample hat!!!
Lucky, lucky you! If there is an uncle’s apartment, perhaps you’ll never be back 🙂
bundle up, take your umbrella that time of year…bon marche, rodin museum,cafe flore(just to be there),guerlain,musee picasso,and if you are brave, take the bateau moche down the seine for another view…enter me please inthe contest…
Have a great time, Patty! I’ve always loved deep fall weather in Paris–the brisk breeze off the Seine picks up the feet and makes the coffee that much more precious. I have a series of pilgramages that I do whenever I’ve gone to Paris–though I think you’re time is already used up very well. A favorite place for a quiet tea, delicious chocolates, and the best “rustic” desserts is the “Charlotte d’Ile” on the rue de l’Ile de Saint Louis. It was not on the tourist radar the last time I went, but well known to Parisians in the area. There is a museum of fans, operated by one of the few trained fan-makers of the world: Musée de l’éventail on the boulevard de Strasbourg–an absolute delight. If you enjoy eighteenth-century decorative arts, there is also the Musée Cognacq-Jay. If you love the Romantics and George Sand, there is the Musée de la vie Romantique. These three are intimate spaces, and it is possible to go through them all alone. Then, for the experience of seeing something that one can see in only a few places, there is the store “Jardin du Moghol.” It features the textile works and clothing of French designer Brigitte Singh, who has restored the mughal art of hand-block printing in India. I have been to her workshop outside Jaipur when I was researching textile production across India–it truly is special in every way. Her works are often shown in museums these days. Last, a small Paris chapel/convent holds the incorruptible body of St. Catherine Labouré at the Shrine of the Miraculous Medal, Motherhouse of the Daughters of Charity, in the rue de Bac (hidden near to Bon Marché). This is a chapel in which people go to pray, not wander, which has always made this lapsed Catholic fret but constantly drawn her back. Her story is a difficult one to bear reading about (as are so many others), and it underscores the political tension between the republic and the church after the Revolution. Still, it is a miracle of some sort, I think, and a somewhat guarded secret treasure of Paris.
Sorry for the long-winded list. I’d love to be put in the drawing. Have a fabulous time.
Leave the kids at home; they need something to look forward to. Instead take plenty of cash and indulge yourself–you never know when you’ll get back. Enjoy!
*still reliving the humiliation of trying to get someone to wait on me at guerlain in august** ahh, paris. have fun! pls enter me! thx
I think you need to stop by the Etat people and look just for the heck of it.
And light a candle at the Palais for me!
Of course, I’d love to be in the drawing as well.
I am so envious that you are going to Paris. Do you have room for a stowaway? Enjoy every minute! Please enter me in the draw for the SL. Thanks.
I’m on Serge binge so please enter me in the drawing.
Have a wonderful time in Paris – I’m very jealous indeed!
Whoopee!
I think a stroll around the Place des Vosges is VITAL at some point.
…and you can eat those felafel recommended above in this square (the felafels from there are wonderful – one of my fave things in Paris)
Enter me in the drawing, s’il vous plait!
My recommendations:
Pierre Herme for his unusual blends of macarons and the Ispahan (rose, lychee, raspberry):
http://www.pierreherme.com/index.cgi?&cwsid=5142ph551FCE59ph8803516
L’as du Falafel for world-class Mediterranean carryout:
http://travel.nytimes.com/2006/12/31/travel/31bite.html?pagewanted=all
Cacao et Chocolat for Aztec-inspired chocolates:
http://www.cacaoetchocolat.com/commerce/fr/CCFR/FR/accueil.php
Hope you have a WONDERFUL time, and I can’t wait to read your reports (and live vicariously through them)!
Amities,
Marsi
I want to add to my post that you buy from Galeries Lafayette as much as you can. If you show your passport, you get a 10 percent discount on all items. Buying at Palais Royal is definitely worth the experience for non-exports, but if you need anything from the regular line, just get it at GL and save yourself a few Euros.
Thanks,
Marsi
Oh how I wish I could go with you!!! Guerlain will be fantastic, I’m sure. Please try to get into the perfume museum, I would love to hear what you find!
Oh, and please enter me in the drawing!
Congrats!!!!!
Congratulation! You WILL enjoy Paris. Perfume wise -I think-everything is said. A recommendation for dinner: Safe your bucks now, eat cornflakes until October, and then have dinner at the train bleu, gare de lyon. http://www.le-train-bleu.com/
A must.
How wonderful for you! I vividly remember my first sight of Paris, and it was as beautiful as I had imagined – Paris really is “all that” and more. 🙂
With all of the great suggestions you’ve got so far, I can’t add anything new, but I will second a few: Notre Dame (touristy, of course, but you must take the stairs to the top – the view of the city is magical), the Picasso and Rodin museums, the Musee d’Orsay. I would skip the Bateau Mouches. Day-trips to Versailles (Osmotheque!) and Giverny, both easily reached by train. If you like decorative things, I would also consider the musee des Arts decoratifs – very pretty exhibits, furniture and fashion are definitely worth a look. Have a blast!
Until now, I haven’t been that interested in Sarrasins, but you make it sound like a must-try, and since Jasmin Full is my favorite jasmine, too, I would love to be added to the drawing.
Oh have a marvelous time! I think that is a wonderful season to visit. It is not a perfume pilgrimage, but do go to Pierre Herme for a divine pastry. He uses loads of interesting flavors and scents. It isn’t far from le Bon Marche. The Ispahan macaron is the best thing I have ever eaten in my life. Rasberries, rose, and lychee. Yummmmmm. Anyway, I would love to be considered in your drawing for sarrasins! Bon voyage!
How exciting! You must be so thrilled. Please enter me in the drawing, and best of wishes for your trip!
Patty, congrats! I would also like to be entered into the contest for the Sarrasins…please!
I second Jamie and say don’t forget Montale. They are supposed to be very generous with their samples as well.
….and don’t forget Montale!
Please enter me in the drawing – thanx!! \:d/
Hi Patty-
All the suggestions here are just fabulous–I would add the Comme des Garcons shop in the Marche St. Honore (near Colette) because it is such a cool space, and also encourage you to dash in to L’Eclaireur on the rue des Rosiers; the last time I was there they still had a few bottles of the Iunx fragrances left. Have a great time!
And please enter me in the draw!
I am SOOOOO jealous. I want to go back! :(( Everyone else has pretty much covered my suggestions (Sainte Chapelle is just amazing–and it’s near Notre Dame). Please include me in the draw!