It´s been awhile since I dug around in the candy, hasn´t it?
Amouage Jublilation XXV for Men – can I pause and say I think Jubilation is the greatest name for a fragrance? I believe this was released in honor of Amouage´s 25th anniversary, and it smells suitably opulent. (BTW anyone who hasn´t seen their luxury bottles – they are gorgeous.) Notes are: coriander, frankincense, honey, cinnamon, rose, orchid, immortelle, musk, ambergris, patchouli, cedar, myrrh and oud. People are wild for this thing, and looking at that list it sounds absolutely perfect. I´m going to revisit it for next month´s Posse Scent Club but … I dunno. It just doesn´t blow my skirt up. It smells like really nice, really expensive men´s cologne, but I didn´t sniff it and then do that borderline insane thing where I start thinking about what I could pawn on eBay to get a bottle (I think the little one is $350). There’s something (the patch?) mildly camphorous in the opening I don’t like, and then the sweet and bitter notes fight with each other in a way that gets my back up, then when it eventually dries down it seems sort of … expensively ordinary? Go ahead, tell me why I’m wrong. Tune in for my crow-eating reversal in January!
i Profumi di Firenze Vanigilia del Madagascar – this was recommended as another vanilla to try in my Smoke and Vanilla jag. It opens on a pretty intense vanilla extract-like note, prompting some thoughts of sprinting for the shower, but that blew off fairly quickly and left me with a kinda-floral, sorta-musky vanilla. It´s not bad. It´s nice with Burning Leaves on top of it. I think I´m spending too much time walking around smelling like I´m on fire.
Roja Dove Unspoken – I don´t hang out on MUA or Basenotes; does anyone talk about these? I feel like they went straight to video, so to speak. Also, I saw some photos online, and if I saw the correct photos those bottles are criminally ugly – the “cheap” $200 EDT bottles, that is, not the nice $700 EDP ones… where was I? I´m now on my second atomizer, and I do believe it´s love. Notes are bergamot, neroli, rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, ginger, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, balsams and labdanum. This is a great fragrance. My only issue with it is that it´s complicated enough – like Coco or Mitsouko – that I wouldn´t reach for it as often as my regular daywear, but so what? That almost candied sweetness of rose, jasmine and ginger, supported by a fierce, almost gamey chypre base (the labdanum here is the perfect foil for those honeyed top notes) enthralls me. I don´t really understand the “oakmoss” bit (wasn´t it banned?) but however he did it — good job! My only complaint is that I can smell how stunning this would be in a stronger concentration – for all its ornateness it´s a bit thin – and I think this problem can be solved by throwing in a few hundred more euros for the EDP.
Andy Tauer´s Mandarines ambrees soap – Guess what? We need to get Tauer Perfumery to make an ancillary line of bath products. Seriously. Can you imagine Desert Marocain as a lotion? How about Reverie in a bath gel? Yeah, you see what I´m saying. So, I´m smelling his mandarins ambrees glycerin soap and I am having trouble putting it down long enough to type this. I want to eat it, but first I need to go try it out in a hot bath. I´m going to guess at the smells of the ingredients, and maybe he´ll stop by and tell me how close I am – lemon, lime, geranium, clove, coumarin, lemongrass, citron. It also says Clementine and mandarin oil. If I go to heaven, my soap will smell like this.
Commes des Garcons Champaca Luxe – a perfect example of why I have decided spraying is the way to go. Dab this on and you get … not much, really. Sprayed on it´s a full-bodied scent that bears only some resemblance to my favorite champaca, Ormonde Jayne, which is much more incense-like and has my beloved OJ base. Notes for Luxe are white pepper, angelica, cardamom, champaca, tuberose, white musk, iris wood. Luxe hasn´t displaced OJ in my affections. In fact, like a lot of interesting fragrances, I can´t decide whether I like it. I can see Luxe being a total scrubber on the wrong day. The cardamom, angelica and champaca together are almost feral on me, resembling the deliciously filthy indoles of jasmine. It is not quite a “nice” smell, but it is a compelling one, and I am beginning to find it dangerously appealing.
Jacques Fath Iris Gris – wow. I´m having trouble finding suitable words for this legendary scent. It´s sweeter than I expected (in a good way.) It´s also gentler. It´s that violet sort of iris, rather than the metallic one. It is absolutely smooth; next to it, Iris Silver Mist is as loud and hyper as a high-school cheerleader. Iris. Iris, maybe a touch of rose? Peach and pastry dough, although I´d quibble with the characterization of Iris Gris as “cold.” After this 1ml samp is gone, I will be so sad. I think I need a bigger decant…
burning frankincense: byzantines.net