August in Dullsville

 

Violetnoir emailed me to meet up this weekend (for the first time! yay!) when she was in town, so she, Louise and I started off with a leisurely lunch at the M Café in the Chevy Chase Wall o´ Bling. We followed up with visits to Saks, Bloomies, and NM.

Lunch could not have been more fun, with that instant chatty bonding you get in perfume land – like getting together with some old friends from college. We were chatting away about families, clothes (ask Vi about her shoe addiction!) etc. having a grand old time.

Through the extensive sniffage afterwards, we found a couple interesting things, but more often than not, our comments ran along the line of, “Well, huh, that´s sort of … you know … it´s kind of like … hmmmmm.”

I saved a ton of cards to remind me what I sniffed, and here it is:

Van Cleef & Arpels Feerie – okay, the bottle´s adorable (they pointed out you can use it as a ring holder) and it´s apparently selling like hotcakes to men looking for presents for the ladies. It´s an inoffensive, pretty, musky-green violet that works nicely in the summer heat and isn’t overly sweet. I feel obligated to point out that while it is waaay cute I wouldn’t call it classy-looking — at $150 it’s visually step up from those kitchy Avon bottles (which btw I love) but not a giant step.

David Yurman – the NM website says woods, patchouli, rose, waterlily. Bored the crap out of me, but actually I think it´s perfect for the line – it smells exactly like the jewelry looks, which is expensive and a little blingy without an iota of unwelcome sensuality. The bottle is absolutely gorgeous, one of the best I´ve seen this year.

Alien Eau Luminescente – fresh neroli? White musk? Clean amber? Dominique Ropion couldn’t come up with something more compelling than this?

Waterford Lismore – a watery floral so inoffensive I couldn´t recall its smell 30 seconds later. Looks like the crystal glasses of the same name, and when you’ve used up the entire bottle (hah!) it comes with some sort of neck insert that turns it into a vase.

Lancome Magnifique – smells vaguely like Sensuous (did they crib each other´s notes?) but with some rose in it, and vaguely like, I don´t know, a bunch of other stuff. But it didn´t make me dry-heave, itself an achievement for a Lancome fragrance.

 

Ungaro – the new one, it smells like a high-concept 1987 ad for Frederick´s of Hollywood – according the the SA, blackberry, jasmine, patchouli, and a really trashy amber-musk base hiding something not quite nice, like a bathroom air freshener. (Okay, she didn´t say that last part, and I´m guessing it´s the jasmine rearing its skanky head). It´s a fragrance with the basic, neon-lit message of slut however you say that in Italian. I would have loved to see the brief for this — I imagine something along the lines of, I want it to smell like a cracked-out porn star on a bed of candied caramel, although it probably just said something like appeal to women 14-80 and sell like crazy. Can I tell you how happy this made me, in a sea of timid scents? Way to go with your 80s freak flag, Francis Kurkdjian! I am not sure I´d wear it on a bet, but I´m thinking the gourmand base might make it a big hit in cooler weather (and I cannot believe they are trying to sell this in August in this area.)

YSL L´Homme in the special Jean Nouvel-designed container. Okay, this at least was good for giggles. A base like a bolt, and an inverted bottle like a … I hope I can find a photo online, it´s like a cross between one of those water-filled gimmicky thermometers and a sex toy. It´s got a teeny green YSL logo bobbing around in it like a fishing lure. No, I am not making this up. Fragrance for the man who is compensating for something, or (possibly) just a big fan of Nouvel.

Fascinating by Ferragamo – which I assume given its bottle is a flanker for the original F? If it’s not in fact a reworked F (since I don´t see the original anywhere, and had an interesting discussion with the SA who claimed no memory of any previous fragrance in that rather distinctive bottle.) I can´t think of a fragrance with less of a truth connection between the juice and the name. Oh, wait, unless it´s Notorious. THE PLOT THICKENS: I was just on the Sephora website, and the original F Ferragamo has disappeared – there´s the original photo, but the listed fragrance is now “Fascinating.” Have I lost my mind? There was another fragrance in the dimwit shoe bottle, right? Is this the same juice? It seems a bit more insipid than F, and they were calling it “new,” here´s the blurb: Mandarin Sorbet, Sambac Jasmine, Patchouli. “Style: Chic. Fresh. Young.”

Mark Jacobs Pear splash bottle – none of the three of us could smell it.

Mark Jacobs Daisy EDP – smells pretty much like the EDT. The bottle’s darling – like the Daisy EDT, only this one has an opaque black bottle with gold flowers. For those of you who couldn´t get enough of the EDT.

Tom Ford White Patchouli – fine, I wanted interesting, and this is interesting. It´s got a strong, medicinal note like oud, and it goes through a great peppery stage early on before it turns into something thin and bitter and unpleasant (on Louise´s skin and my card.) YMMV. I can´t decide whether there´s oud mating with patch to give that bitter, apothecary note, but it ain´t pretty.

Angel Men Pure Coffee – this was scrumptious, if not weather-appropriate. The bottle says (if I am deciphering my hideous handwriting correctly) “woody coffee, oriental, musk.” Funny brown rubber bottle with the basic Angel men design. Wear this and find random strangers burying their noses in your neck, moaning with pleasure. You were warned. I certainly hope to be wearing this again in the fall to see if my ardor holds up.

Are you getting irritated with me and my whining, just reading this? I´m irritated at my whining. Sometimes, your fondest wishes have the funniest way of turning around and biting you on the butt. On this blog I´ve mocked various nasty/oddball fragrances, when I wasn´t lamenting the lychee, sneezing at the pink pepper, struggling to find new and different ways to insult subway-killers like Angel. And then you know what happened? I found myself wandering through a bunch of perfumes with two dear friends, with the dawning realization: I am bored to tears by most of these new releases.

I think you could line up much of what is here – from the orange Alien to Feerie to Magnifique to Lismore – and your take-home thought upon smelling them would be: innocuous. I kept pondering: is this a sign of the times? Are we in a mini-era of Safe Perfumes, born to help us out in a scary, Anthraxed, mortgage-defaulting, bank-imploding world? If the most exciting thing about Notorious is the name, what does this tell us?

David Yurman, fragrantica.com; Cicciolina and friend, images.wikio.com; YSL L´Homme image, yslbeautyus.com; ; MJ Daisy, neimanmarcus.com

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Luis Orman
17 years ago

I have a question between 1980 and 1988 there was a men parfum of Avon Fareud, in that time I buy it in Miami,please some body who known about this let me know if they have change the name or maby the company don’t make it any more, I never could find that smell of that parfum any were in europe or the world not even France Thank you.

minette
18 years ago

i used the words “pleasant” and “nice” to describe many of these, and i now realize i should’ve used the word “boring.” it’s more to the point.

and may i say here and now, i hate sensuous. a coworker wears it and it is disgusting. smells like YSL M7 washed with some gawdawful laundry detergent notes. the clean notes are what make me queasy. omg. wood and detergent don’t go together.

Melissa
18 years ago
Reply to  minette

Thank you for saying it! Sprayed it the other day and thought that maybe I just needed to give it another chance. But I had the compelling need to spray 1/2 ml of Red Aoud over it when I got in the car. Hmmmm…. Covered it nicely I will say. No scrubbing needed.

18 years ago

Well it sounds like you had a great time! Jealous!

And you’re looking for “puttana” in regards to your Ungaro review (Italian word for slut, or more accurately, whore). Ahh, it seems my double major is useful sometimes. As it seems I have forgotten a good portion of the language, the curses are the last to go.

Lee
18 years ago

I’m just psyched for the new SLs and that crazily named Parfum d’Empire – Aziyade… You three sounds like you had a ball.

I miss it here.:x

18 years ago
Reply to  Lee

So come back already! Geesh! :d:*

Louise
18 years ago
Reply to  tmp00

Like he said :d/

Masha
18 years ago

So glad I’m not the only one bored to tears! 2005 and 2006 seem like distant, sunny dreams. My word for the year is BLAND. Killingly bland. Dull enough to send a perfumista into a permanent coma. Is it because so many things have been banned? Or because things are being made so cheaply now, there’s nowhere to go but to the land of dull bathroom scents?? Oh woe….

Masha
18 years ago
Reply to  March

It’s been so bland that I nearly went into delirium when I smelled that skanky bit of cumin in Molinard’s Nirmala! I’m glad I bought a bottle of Dzongkha a couple years back, because it reminds me how good it can get (or could get). And I haven’t tried Serge Noir yet….

Admin
18 years ago

Oh, how lame! Okay, I like the Feerie bottle even in person. It is a little kitschy, but I kinda like that. I think that perfume will do pretty well once it hits discounters and a reasonable price per bottle, which it’s a perfectly nice perfume in the $40-60 range.

Yurman is perfect for what it is and what it is meant to be, but it’s really not me.

The rest, haven’t smelled, but I think I need to try that Pure Coffee thing, which I’ve overlooked!

I’m so jealous, sounds like you guys had a blast!

18 years ago
Reply to  March

***enabler alert*** Jimmy Choo, right across from Hermes, easily scoped & shopped during the “flex time” before lunch…

(Said she who will likely be wearing some sort of Earth Shoe equivalent…)

Disteza
18 years ago

Was I the only one who made it to the thing @ AWF? It was good, BTW; the staff was quite jolly by the end, and it was interesting to have the live music and poetry. As I was coming from work and had on no perfume, I decided to spritz myself with the Arabie tester so I could try it in the heat, and you know what? I LOVED IT! I imagine it’s people like me who make the rest of the masses scared to stray beyond the safe perfumes. 😉

Seriously though, I refuse to spend any amount of $$$ on perfumes that are bland, safe, or otherwise undeserving. However, since I’m an nth-level niche snob, my bar for ‘deserving’ is set pretty high.

Robin
18 years ago

The Waterford Lismore is hysterically dull, really, almost insulting given the “luxury” positioning. At least you get the vase, I guess. And so agree on Feerie. Scent is silly, bottle WAY less compelling in person. The only thing I liked this weekend was Infusion d’Homme, and it’s so close to the women’s that I don’t need a bottle.

18 years ago

I wish I could have been there- I sort of wandered through Nordstroms between “Mamma Mia” and “Brideshead” and sniffed a few things, including some Tom Ford thing that didn’t even register.

Of course it was the last day of some sale there and the place was mobbed; I hate crowds, they make me want to bite people.

On a side note it was nice to see that both movies were packed to the gills; real adult movies getting an audience? Yay!:d

Admin
18 years ago
Reply to  tmp00

How was Brideshead? I’m going to see it today. I really, really didn’t like Mamma Mia. Bad casting, too much theater direction for 18-feet-tall people on my movie screen. 🙂

Billy D
18 years ago
Reply to  Patty

What a coincidence–saw both movies this weekend too.

Brideshead is pretty to look at, but so simplified in a cause-and-effect type way. Everything is pretty much laid out for you. And I wasn’t even that impressed with Emma Thompson (whom I love). That being said, Matthew Goode(‘s lips) gives a great performance, and Ben Whishaw is really mesmerizing. An up-and-comer, that one.

Mamma Mia was ridiculous. It should have been called “The Movie Where Everyone Fidgets.” All I can say is at least the cute one was gay. And Amanda Seyfrield is impossibly physically perfect. Like, for real.

18 years ago
Reply to  Billy D

What was it with the lips on that cast- they were the most lip-licious group I’ve seen in a while. Even Bridey (who’s supposed to be really plain) was fabulous looking, or would be if this hair wasn’t starched..

18 years ago
Reply to  Patty

I’m going to be a post whore and tell you to read my blog for my opinion on them. Although I did like both okay enough.

I did want to yell out at one point “Stop with the tilting camera already!” at Mamma Mia..

Rai
18 years ago

Gosh, I must try that Angel Men, that sounds wonderful ~o)

I assumed the Fascinating was a flanker, my SA seemed to think so & she told me its really popular as its floral/fruity but not OTT, no jasmine skank & therefore works for the office. I have a decant – its perfectly pleasant, & I’d wear it if I was given it, but its not a FB purchase.

The similarity between Magnifique & Sensuous – I personally don’t find that. Sensuous is more honey/woody (& smells like rotting fruit on me ;D) & the other more sweet vanilla/rose. But that’s skin chemistry for you ;D I do find there’s more connection between Magnifique & Notorious – not surprising since they are both from Lancome. I do find its a shame that so many of the Lancome frags (whether under their own name or house brands) are somehow becoming more & more blah.

Rai
18 years ago
Reply to  March

Just checked the Ferragamo website – F is still listed as available & has different notes to Fascinating – jasmine, rose & leather. That’s an interesting combination I’m curious to sniff now to get a sense of the leather note, though I wonder how popular it is.

sariah
18 years ago

Of these I’ve only smelled the Angel Pure Coffee – and thank goodness it’s not dull! But, I prefer the original. They are both harsh and loud, which I can live with in the original but the new one is just too much for me.

“But it didn’t make me dry-heave, itself an achievement for a Lancome fragrance” – had me spitting up cereal this morning. At least you had fun meeting with the peeps and writing the post, even if the sniffage was dull.

Catherine
18 years ago

LOL–thank you for that extra nudge, because I didn’t get the sarcasm! I’ve just been hearing how marvelous the bottle is for weeks now. Infomercial!?! Yes! I was thinking of what my sister would say if I actually got my niece the bottle. Her response would have two parts. 1) (in a whisper) You know you could have found something equally as fairy like down at Big Lots. 2) (in a state of horror) You could have gotten *me* Carnal Flower!

Catherine
18 years ago
Reply to  March

Yes, March, that is the part with which I have the most problem. And to be fair to the Feerie creators, caps seem the hardest part of the bottle to do with any grace, if an atomizer is involved. This one….well, it’s so *fussy*…

Still, it’s interesting how violet scents are popping up. I’m interested to smell this and others solely for this reason. I don’t actually like violet in perfume very often, so for education’s sake, I’d like to get a rounder picture of what’s available. If I’m up for sniffing FM’s new violet, then I should be up for sniffing Feerie for the same reason.

Catherine
18 years ago

Well, March, Louise, et violetnoir, it seems you had a bit of a day–both fun and disappointing. Can I say, without getting scolded too much, that I seem to be the only person who very much dislikes the Feerie bottle? I’ll probably never smell the juice, because what if I like it?!? I couldn’t bear to buy a bottle of something so flashy and cute-zy. On the other hand, I know exactly who I could make happy with it–my eleven-year-old niece. She loves anything to do with fairies.

Perhaps if scents like these were pushed during the Chicago sniffa, I will have a go at them. But, even then, there would be other, more compelling things. I’m with Louise–let me have a go at the FM counter. Surely, someday, Une Rose will slay me. Led me into Prada. I need to sniff those new parfums. The last time that a new release got me all excited, it was Mona di Orio’s Amyitis, way back in early spring. The one that’s calling to me this fall is FM’s Dan Tes Bras–violet & incense?! In the doldrums of a muggy August, however, when the only new things are the new spider webs that splay entire windows, I’m not sure what I could suggest. Well, I did get the remaining two of the Roja Dove trilogy–man, that felt great.

Melissa
18 years ago
Reply to  Catherine

Well, I won’t scold you Catherine! Maybe I need to make my sarcasm scream a little bit more loudly. I think combined perfume bottle/ring holders would make great infomercials, don’t you?

18 years ago
Reply to  March

=))

18 years ago
Reply to  Musette

Or try to fit them INTO the bottle???

18 years ago
Reply to  Catherine

Catherine,

If that (and other mainstreamers) are at any of our Event stores I’m sure you can get a sample – they LOVE pushing that stuff. Even if samps aren’t available it’ll be a perfect opportunity to spritz it so you can say ^:)^ or b-( or…:-< Me? I'm bringing lots of sinus spray!!!

March the Apologetic
18 years ago
Reply to  Musette

I’m bringing my migraine meds, and after yesterday it sucks to admit it but I think I’m wearing my sneakers. Sorry. Even just four hours in reasonably comfortable shoes was too much.

moi
18 years ago

Oh gosh. That’s all I need. An addiction to bottles as well as the juice inside. That David Yurman is a work of art. I saw Feerie at the duty free in Detroit last week. Didn’t squirt, though. Brain was massively overloaded. It was all I could do to escape with my beloved Kenzo Flower and not purchase fifty million other bottles.

Billy D
18 years ago

My sentiments exactly on the Tom Ford–it’s a little dissappointing (I was hoping for something more unisex, more outrageous), but it is complex and at least interesting. It’s got a personality, one that makes it difficult for most people to love, much like Black Orchid. I really need to pick up my bottles of Moss Breches, Noir de Noir, and Neroli Portofino before they go up in price, eh?

18 years ago
Reply to  Billy D

Somebody has to explain this Moss Breeches to me…have they truly combined green and skank? 😉

Melissa
18 years ago

No, didn’t make it to AWF. My son came back from the UK yesterday (with the Ambre fragrance from L’Occitane for mom-sweet kid!) and I couldn’t fit everything in. Wanted to make it to AWF also , but too much to do in one day. Hope it went well for them!

Louise
18 years ago
Reply to  March

It’s spooky how empty the store are 8-x

Nava
18 years ago

March,

I wanted to do a department store Sniffa of my own this past weekend – I had dinner with a friend of mine across the street from the swanky Westchester Mall (Neimans, Nordies, etc.) and down the block from Bloomingdales. I wanted to get there early since my friend is no perfumista. Thanks for doing the leg-work for me. The only one of the dulls I’ve smelled is Waterford Lismore on a cent strip in New York Magazine. I had to rip the darn thing out – it was atrocious!

I expected the David Yurman scent to be exactly as you described it, but I am really disappointed in Tom Ford. I love a few of his Private Blends (although not the price tags), but Black Orchid and now White Patchouli don’t sound like they’ll have much longevity.

I don’t think we’re in a “mini-era of Safe Perfumes” for the reasons you stated, rather I think most of these are “safe” as a response to the practice of minimum exposure/maximum profit corporate culture. Fragrance is always the big moneymaker for these couture houses who make their wares to appeal to a very small, exclusive, WEALTHY group of people. If they can make a crapload off the masses buying their perfumes, better safe than sorry, ya know? I’ll raise your whine with my pessimism. /:)

Melissa
18 years ago

Little wonder that most of my fragrances purchases are made on ebay, searching for vintages and non-reformulated classics. Or in a few small stores where the managers know my taste and reach for bottles when I walk in the door. And yes, Louise, I fully agree with the niche comment. Much more excitement there, and no safety, especially for the wallet!

Well, I can’t say that I expected much from the Van Cleef, but I sooo needed a combined ring holder/perfume…

18 years ago
Reply to  March

March,

In running around to perfume counters a lot these past few months, I’ve taken the time to spritz a lot of the new mainstream offerings, something I would’ve never done afore I came onto this blog. There are a few horrors out there but for the most part ‘meh’ is exactly what I would say to describe the juices that are being bandied about. At this point I would welcome and ‘eeek’! or two, just to wake me up!!!

The day, however, sounds like it was absolutely delightful!!! What made Louise’s lips so gorgeous, other than that they were on Louise?

xo

Louise
18 years ago
Reply to  Musette

Awwww, smooch :”>

The lipstick is a Guerlain Kiss-Kiss in Brun Jazzy-with a clinique bronzy gloss…I feel fall coming!

rosarita
18 years ago

Well, boring perfume aside, sounds like y’all had a good time 🙂 The descriptions I’ve read of Angel Men Pure Coffee are mouth watering; how does it compare with Bond 9 New Haarlem, which is my favorite coffee scent so far?

Louise
18 years ago

Oh, we had such a great time!

But surely, if I wasn’t with two such wonderful women, I would have become incredibly depressed by the scents. You said “safe”, I say sad 🙁

And when you say “safe” I can only think what I would like to use to cover that YSL thingy

I feel pretty snobbish, but I am almost completely now pushed over the niche edge…and glad I can remain excited about the new SLs, Parfum d’Empires, and a nichy surprise or two for the fall.

So grand to meet you, Violetnoir! And thanks to both you gals for encouraging my lippie purchases…:x

18 years ago

Huh. How ’bout that? The Angel Men Coffee is the only one those I’ve liked enough to purchase.

I like how you didn’t even list the notes for that YSL men’s thing 🙂 Because I’m sure how it smells is way beside the point with that one!

Do you think Van Cleef & Arpels would just sell the empty bottle for that Feerie? I don’t want to waste that much money, but I sure do like the bottle :d

18 years ago

I guess someone has to cite Freud–and I guess it’s going to be me–by noting that sometimes a bottle is just a bottle. I could name a dozen taller-than-they-are-wide fragrance bottles: Yohji Homme, Catalyst for Men, Pierre Cardin, all the Perry Ellis 360 scents, CSP’s travel sprays, Aquolina Blue Sugar….

I personally love the Nouvel bottle for L’Homme, including a feature you missed: the spray tube is of the exact same refractive index as the juice, so it’s completely invisible. Nice touch! I think the bottle is terrific, and in fact I love everything about L’Homme except, unfortunately, the scent.