Bois 1920 Come la Luna, Vento di Fiori

boisUnfinished business — first off, anyone with comments/issues since our WordPress upgrade last week, please go comment on the “Blog Quirks” post before this one.  I wasn’t expecting all the random kind words from everyone, and thanks.  We put a lot of effort into this blog, and it’s nice to know it’s appreciated.  For people who are now frantically emailing because you can’t comment at all — we’ve checked in various browsers, and I’m hiring someone to look into it.   Have you updated your browser recently?  Also Firefox seems to work better than IE.  Mac users seem to be having more problems.  And that annoying Wal-Mart ad is not ours, don’t know what’s up with that.  Although they invite you to “roll over for a deeper experience,” and I’m not even going to comment on that except it was my laugh of the day.  Maybe they are targeting the right blog.

Okay, the review.  I don’t even know where half my samples come from anymore, and thanks to whoever gave me the samples of the two new Bois 1920 scents at LuckyScent.  I had no idea what to expect and I was pleasantly surprised.

Bois 1920 Come la Luna – Sicilian mandarin, Sicilian sweet orange, rose wood, pink pepper, coriander, Indonesian patchouli, cedar, amber, incense. The LuckyScent blurb is all about ambery luminosity and comfort with “a seductive thrum,” but the first ten minutes are pretty much all thrum on me. A delightfully sweaty scent that develops into an amber with enough citrus it doesn´t do that nauseating embalmed-fly thing on my skin, which is my general reaction to sweet amber scents like Ambre Narguile. Assuming you rode out the first few minutes in the privacy of your own home, I agree with the Lucky blurb that this would be a work-safe scent that isn´t boring and could carry you into the evening. Also, remember, I am the musk magnifier. I´d put this somewhere between the saucy Courtesan and Party in Manhattan on the skank scale.  Lasted all day.

Bois 1920 Vento di Fiori – Sicilian lemon, cardamom, tarragon, jasmine, galbanum, patchouli, amber, oak moss, musk, Siberian birch. Lucky touts this as a “classic chypre” with some green notes and “the hushed feel of an isolated forest.” A sublime, strange scent that has me pondering vintage samples of things like Ma Griffe or Vent Vert. Herbacous in the extreme at the opening, the tarragon and galbanum combine to form an echo of the distinctly medicinal smell of artemisia. As it dries down it becomes somewhat more classic-feeling in composition while never losing its pungent, attractive oddity. I personally struggle with the leather/galbanum combination of some classic scents like Bandit and Cabochard. I wouldn´t describe this as lighter, exactly, but it´s less challenging, at least for me, and less animalic. I think this would be very much enjoyed by classic-style perfumery fans, particularly those who enjoy green notes. I happened upon a small vial of vintage Ma Griffe just last week, and it´s achingly clear to me, several decades after the creation of many of these scents, what has been lost.

Finally, I wanted to mention that Art with Flowers has Floris Malmaison in stock, which stunned me.  Bill didn’t seem to think it was that big a deal, it showed up in his last shipment.  It shows up periodically online (it’s backordered right now at Luscious, but on another discounter.)  I’m thrilled, especially since I thought someone mentioned it’s been discontinued; I can’t find it on their site, anyway.  So.  Good news for the carnation-loving world.   If you are a fan of carnation, you really need to try Malmaison at some point, it’s probably my favorite, with CdG Carnation and Lorenzo Villoresi Garofano close behind (although you can never really have too much carnation.)  Now if only Floris would stick some Summer Limes in the next shipment…

image, luckyscent

Sara K March 31, 2009

Both of these sound sniffable...hope I can get to them soon!

violetnoir March 31, 2009

Thanks, babe! Please read my comments in the blog quirks post below. Ooh, and I received the new Essies. I love them and plan to have a little painting party tomorrow or Wednesday. And, speaking of luckyscent, did you see the new Strange Beautiful nail polishes on the site? They are, well, strange and beautiful. So much fun. I tested the nougat one and my dear friend, Pearl, tested the butterscotch one. We love them! Hugs, and thanks again for listening to my palavering. You are the best!

Kathryn March 30, 2009

"Spinter"! What an excellent word. With some snow still on the ground and very little green to be seen outside my windows, I'm having a good time playing with some of the green scents you've suggested. Vento di Fiori is lovely. On me, it's a light, bright, springlike green, with that pleasantly persistent lemon note keeping some sun shining through the leaves. MDCI Vepres Siciliennes (aka Riche Orient) has virtually all of the same notes, but they're enveloped in lush fruits and flowers. It's a warmer wind than Vento di Fiori, deeper and more sultry: a green that evokes warm summer evenings. Neither of these perfumes goes straight to the heart of green, the way vintage Vent Vert does, and both are considerably more ladylike than Bandit, with its leather biker jacket. Of them all, Vento di Fiori seems to me the least mood and weather dependent. I can't imagine a time or a place that it wouldn't be really nice to wear. It's not as distinctive as the other three, but sometimes that's a good thing.

perfumeshrine March 30, 2009

Thanks dear Mach for the fine review and the updates on the fate of poor Malmaison. It's a pity that this most unisex of carnations has been deignated the rubbish bin. (and don't get me started on the delicate Oeillet Sauvage which disappeared with no trace...luckily as I was able to stockpile in time). There seems to be a renewed interest in green, sharp scents, which of course pleases me no end ;-) BTW, Ma Griffe has gone through a couple of significant changes, although I actually quite like the intensely perfume-y oakmossy effect of the 80s juice (the older ones seem to be more intent on bergamot, but I deduce that bergaptene levels had to be minimised early on as it was one of the first oils to be pinpointed for sun sensitivity)

March March 30, 2009

What's Rishi Chai? Must investigate. And my feeling about Quartz is, even if it IS d/c'd, which I'm not sure it is, it's been in production so long we all ought to be able to find bottles for quite some time. And thanks for the sales tip!

Shelley March 30, 2009

I am chuckling over my tea here, because I realized that the conclusion I reached on Vento di Fiori was beautiful.skank. Ha! March places it just to the left of Come la Luna? Okey-dokey! I'm dancing all around "amber with citrus," and it is slowly dawning around me that you invoked both sweat and skank. I still want to play, of course. I love me some galbanum, so I am most curious about the Vento di Fiori. And whaddaya know (with an extra nod to Carter), I was just taking Bandit for a ride yesterday. (Along with a few others--one of those days of patchwork scent quilt on my arms, trying out different things.) So now my mind's awhirl with comparisons before I've even huffed. Hey...does anybody else notice the emoticons are now active, if different of face, in the "Recent Comments" sidebar? They used to just appear as their keyboard combinations...

Silvia March 30, 2009

Trying my luck to see if I can post today...

Louise March 30, 2009

Morning all! I think I may know where those LS samps came from ;) Obviously, I dismissed them too quickly and passed them on to a dear friend...must re-try, I thinks. I was amazed by the Malmaison a AWF, too-so surprised that a bottle came home with me ;) Bill looked it up when I mentioned that I thought it was discontinued, and found it on the site he was searching, so I think its death may have been greatly exagerated. I wasn't taking any chances...!

carter March 30, 2009

I couldn't decide whether to add a postscript to my previous post or just do a completely new one, but I was just on Amazon to buy my 3-pack of Rishi Chai (best deal around) and because the question of whether Quartz is currently on the endangered list came up the other day I decided to check into it while I was there. Happy to report that not only is it easy to find, turns out they've got a great deal on it if you don't mind testers -- 3.3 oz. for $19.95 with free shipping! I immediately grabbed up a deuce and if you like Quartz I don't think I've ever seen it for less.

Joe March 30, 2009

I had to have that Vento di Fiori as soon as I read about it on NST and there's a gracious splitter selling some over at ScentSplits, so I received my decant late last week. It's a great, zingy scent, but I'm not really getting any of the 'fiori'. Sorry to say I've never tried Vent Vert for comparison. 'Pungent' is the right word -- you nailed it, March. Very green, and I'm getting a lot of sharpness from that Sicilian lemon, but nothing animalic at all. And anyone either put off or enticed by the words patchouli and amber in the list of notes can just fugeddabout those, IMO. I seriously love this scent, but will someone tell me if I'm completely crazy thinking that there's a similarity to the sharp, zippy citrus of Terre d'Hermes? Seriously, for a minute I thought the splitter had decanted the wrong juice. I'm probably nuts, but I'd love someone to confirm what I'm smelling. Side by side the difference is apparent, but my nose thinks these two are close cousins. I want a sample of the Come la Luna now too. Sounds delicious.

carter March 30, 2009

Vento di Fiori here I come :) So funny that you would mention Bandit in this post, as I have been engaged in a real battle of wills with it for the past few days. There has been a natural inclination on my part lately to bust out with bright and carefree florals, almost as if I believe that I can somehow fool Mother Nature into cooperating. But that bright yellow-and-black box has simply refused to get with the program and insists that attention must be paid. I haven't worn Bandit for months, despite the fact that I usually wear it quite often when it's cold outside, and suddenly, when I least expect it, I can't seem to focus on anything else. And I don't know that I've ever packed Bandit for travel, but on this current trip it's the only fragrance I've brought, which is really weird given how little it cares about playing nicely with others. And yet, it's been perfect -- just the perfect thing, even if not so perfectly well-behaved. In fact, that may be the very reason why I'm enjoying it so much these days; one last rebellious burst of feist before settling down to the sunny attitudes and flower power of Spring.

Janet in CA March 30, 2009

I don't think of myself as a green/chypre kind of woman but I have to say I really love the sample of Vento di Fiori I have. The Luna s nice but not quite it on me. Good luck on the upgrade fixes!

Elle March 30, 2009

I hadn't planned on sampling these two scents, but now I definitely am going to. I'm a big fan of classic green scents, so the Vento di Fiori sounds like it has my name all over it. And you are so right - you can never really have too much carnation. :-) Words to live by. Oh, and I got a sample of Narciso edt. Am absolutely loving it! Would never have expected to. Thanks for that review!