The first release in the Dior travel fragrance line, Escale à Portofino, came out last year but was in extremely limited release. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the only place you could get it here was Epcot Center at Disney World, and file that under “bizarre distribution decisions.” As Now Smell This notes, it was to remain in extremely limited distribution, in one store in the US, although maybe it was in the Dior boutiques eventually? I wouldn’t know, but there are so many releases I forgot about it in fairly short order.
And then, wonder of hilarious wonders, it did show up in one store — Nordstrom — which means that even if you don’t live near one, you can order it online. It’s quite reasonably priced for an EDT, at 2.5 oz for $65 or 4.2 oz for $85.
I admit I wasn’t on fire to try it; it’s a cologne type, and I’m one of those people… really, how many colognes do you need? They’re a necessity in the humid summer, along with my tea standbys, but I think Robin’s recent post on the Sisley colognes, and the comments thereon, reflect a reality for a lot of us. Those Sisleys cost $165 for 100 ml, and no thanks. Colognes can be lovely and refreshing and all, but they’re almost by definition short lived, and there are a lot of good options out there that don’t cost an arm and a leg. Although yes, okay, I’d like a bottle of the Chanel Les Exclusifs cologne — but I won’t be buying one.
Escale à Portofino’s notes are Calabrian bergamot, Italian citron, Sicilian petitgrain, bitter almond, orange blossom, juniper berry, cold spices (no, I have no idea what that means), cypress, cedar, white musk, caraway and galbanum.
First off, it wears more like the EDT it actually is, and less like a traditional cologne — it’s got presence and decent lasting power, not a scent that needs reapplying after 20 minutes. And I know I hold onto most scents like a limpet, but I got pleasant whiffs of this for the balance of the day; I did three sprays with no ill effects.
It starts off bright and citrusy, as you’d expect from the notes, but pleasantly dry and slightly astringent – it’s got a little bite to it. Then comes that moment when such things tend to break in one of two traditional directions — a “masculine” citrus/musky drydown, or a feminine floral one. Instead, I get an interesting unisex Option C. The orange blossom is mildly indolic but not soapy or powdery or sour, and the almond and caraway are brilliant here, the sharp, nutty/anisic richness a perfect foil for the orange blossom. I wish I could find my darn samples of the Dior Colognes because I’d like to compare the almond notes and effect — Cologne Blanche or Bois d’Argent, I’m not sure which. I never arrived at the point in the Portofino development when I think, eh, and lose interest. Instead I’m served up with something faintly gourmand but at the same time refreshing — almond/caraway sorbet or maybe gelato? I’m afraid to type that here in case it sounds disgusting to you, because it’s not — it’s fun and interesting and eminently wearable without being run of the mill. Orange blossom had worn out its welcome in my house; I think I overdosed, and for awhile its powdery sweetness was nauseating. Escale à Portofino brings back the love, and the trick is, at least on me, a complete lack of powderiness, either from the orange blossom or anything heliotrope-y from the almond. It’s good fun — more substantive than the Prada Iris but with the same kind of unisex joie de vivre.
If you’re a fan of orange blossom, and/or you’re looking for something cologne-ish in smell but that actually has decent lasting power but won’t gag anyone on the subway in July, and/or you’re getting a teensy bit bored with your Prada Iris and you hated the new orange one (it smelled wretched on me, that’s for sure) you might want to look at this. In the meantime, I’m looking forward to Escale à Pondichery, coming next month (although I don’t know where) with notes of black tea, Sambac jasmine, cardamom and sandalwood, also done (like Portofino) by Francois Demachy.
image: Nordstrom
Late to the party here, but I read something somewhere (probably wwd?) that implied that even Dior was surprised by the success of Portofino, and I suppose that accounts for the wider distribution. Hope that means Pondichery will be easier to get! And must go back and try Portofino on skin, it sounds very tempting.
I bought it last summer when it came out in the UK. It was an impulse buy that turned out to be a mistake. On me it was super sweet and it gave me a headache (damn that orange blossom-always the same story). Maybe i overapplied thinking it was just a cologne. I ended up giving it to a friend who loves it. I’d love to find something similar: a cologne with a bith of something extra. Still looking…
you’re stalking me! (or i’m stalking you??) i was at nordstrom’s JUST yesterday to find a last minute mother’s day gift, and i did the same exact thing – i tried on infusion d’orange, didn’t like it (and i too luurve IdI), happened to come across escale portofino at the dior makeup counter, and LOVED IT! and i love it for all those reasons you listed … *sigh*. it’s like you took all my thoughts and wrote them out oh so nicely. 😛
I was not stalking you. It was the SAs, they were stalking both of us! I keed, I keed. It was nice, for a change, to see the mall busy enough that I could be easily ignored. I’m glad you liked Portofino!
Two weeks of resistance is great for me! Normally I kick up an actual dust trail as I rush to the perfume discounters…
I generally try not to buy unsniffed, my track record isn’t so good. Hope yours is better! 😉
March and her limpet family –lol the visual is too much!
Yes, I’m that Daisy (2 daisies? heaven forbid)
and I did order a bottle of Marc Jacobs Daisy–it really seemed somehow negligent to not at least try it!
hey, I caved on the Escale but I put up a worthy struggle…at least a week, maybe two…
I really like MJ Daisy, I bought it for my niece although I don’t own it myself. I hope you like it. Someone said Portofino was at the discounters, but I couldn’t find it anywhere cheaper than Nordstrom, could you?
Yeah, baby! I am with you on all points.
And, I wish that new Escale would hurry up and debut. I have a feeling it will be great!
Hugs!
And hugs back! It’s nice to be lemming something that’s inexpensive and accessible. Really looking forward to Pondichery, those notes sound wonderful.
I was under the impression that Pondichery was to be released next month…perhaps I’ve begun having perfume-hallucinations?
Well, I heard next month too, but where? In every Douglas in Europe, and every Boots, but only available at Caesars Palace in the States? Distribution is maddening. Or *they* could get it next month and we could get it in 2010.
The Dior SA at my local Nordstrom drew a total blank when I mentioned Escale a Pondicherry. She said they usually hear about them six months in advance. *Big sigh* I like Escale a Portofino a lot, although Eau de Rochas is my go-to cologne. But I just know I’ll love the Pondicherry. Great review, thanks!
Thank you, A! To be fair to the SAs, I think they’re totally kept in the dark, and at least for most of them, they’re probably as excited about some new fragrance showing up as a new line of blush or whatever — it’s just another thing to stock on the shelves. Our local SAs often hear from *me* that they’re supposed to be getting something, whether it’s Nordstrom, Sephora or NM.
March, did I get the Sisley #3 or the Escale a Portofino? I have a 10ml decant of the #3, because as much as I like it, I’m offended by their price schedule. I have a bottle of the Escale being shipped as we speak! And I can hardly wait to get my nostils on that Pondichery….
Heh, you caved on the Escale! I saw the discussion on NST… actually, what I meant (and said totally unclearly) is, did you ever try the Marc Jacobs Daisy? Are you the Daisy that was discussing that somewhere recently, that you’d not tried it in spite of your name? Could have been another Daisy…
Hi Divina, the Eau de Sisley #3 is lovely…but $165 for 100ml ?? That’s a tough sell…. in the event that they suddenly decide to have a half-off sale? (a girl can dream, right?) I’d be right there with the credit card out!
I’m still mulling this (see my response above.) I don’t get much lasting power or sillage from the Sisleys, they are very cologne-ish on me. So, yeah, I guess I feel the way you do. But if they lasted and gave me pleasure, I’m hardly one to quibble about price.
I definitely agree on the issue of the price! All I wanted to say was that to my nose they do not fit the mold of the cologne, which I consider more insipid, more lemon/citrus heavy with aromatic undercurrents that are almost barely there.
Daisy, there is hope btw! I saw these at a brick-and-mortar discounter recently for 80 euro. Hopefully they will hit the online discounters soonish too.
Hi March, just a note on the Sisleys (a personal point of view of course): Yes the price point is rather off-putting, but they are not a typical cologne type of frag. I think 1 & especially 3 are attractive due to their chypre tonalities. They are as much cologne types as Philtre d’Amour & Vie de Chateau are..meaning, they are refreshing and just perfect for hot humid weather, but also complex and interesting enough to be considered in their own right.
Divina, I think the Sisleys are a great example of the personal intruding into the (quasi?) professional in perfume blogging. I have a store nearby and I’ve tried them several times and … I don’t know if I’m partly anosmic? I find myself unmoved by them. I didn’t blog on them because they made a big empty space in my head. Now, I’m not suggesting *at all* that the Dior (or anything else I’d happen to like) is in any qualitative way better than the Sisleys — they just leave me cold. And as I’m not qualified to discuss them on their technical/chemical merits, they’ll be left for others to enjoy more than I do.
Effulgence I can easily see showing up in a post. But priapic?? That’d be a hard one….pun intended.
Heh heh, and another filthy Monday here on the Posse. Hey, did you ever go buy some Daisy?
Isn’t that the stuff that sticks to the walls of the tub when you exfoliate?
I thought that was what certain over the top actresses exhibited when accepting their Academy Awards…no, wait; perhaps “effluent”… 😉
Strange – I live in Denmark and we could – for that matter, still can – get this everywhere, or just about.
Whatever – I bought a big bottle last year, and will likely have to get another one before the weather gets too much warmer. This is glorious – fresh, but not too much, green, but not too much, this is, in short, what happiness in hot weather smells like. I love it, love it, love it. And for an eau de toilette, it lasts a very long time on me, and never gets boring.
Oh, so glad to hear you’re enjoying it! And the mysteries of fragrance distribution here and abroad (or here vs. abroad) abound.
I was a big fan of classic Cristalle. Based on that, do you think I’d like the Dior?
I find them completely different. Cristalle is much more of a formal perfume and much, much greener. I’m not saying you *wouldn’t* like the Dior, but it doesn’t really smell anything like Cristalle. The galbanum is pretty subtle.
Wait something that sounds nice, that I can find (I pass a Nordstroms on my commute) and is affordable. Holy cow! Guess looks like someone will be passing her local Nordstoms today.
Hope all is well by you!
Well, yes, every now and again I’m lucky enough to find something to love that doesn’t have to be hand-delivered from Budapest and doesn’t cost $600 not including the travel 🙂
I would love a cologne that actually does what I had hoped the orange Prada Infusion would do. It smelled noxious on me and truth be told, I think it’s unpleasant on most people.
Now, on to the more important topic of the Word of the Day. I’m quite certain that you will find a way to work “priapic” into a post. It’s just a matter of finding the right fragrance. Effulgent? You could do that one in your sleep!
You didn’t like the Prada orange either? It’s dreadful on me… very detergent-y. I got quite fond of the iris. Anyhow, now that Louise has given Escale her blessing perhaps you should try it too!
If I remember correctly, there was a Guerlain boutique at the France pavilion in Epcot. And the Mexican food in “Mexico” was quite tasty. Then again, the last time I was in Epcot I was in my 20s.
I find that utterly bizarre. Who the hell goes to Orlando to buy Guerlain? Particularly in that heat… I did love it as a kid, we went several times, but we only went once as adults and it was horrifying in a quasi-spectacular way (spring break!) Even the kids complained about the lines…
PS It must be my morning stupor but seeing “Mexico” made me giggle.
It is my goal in life to make you giggle. 😀
You would not believe how many people I know from up north who think the sun rises and sets on Disney World. And did you know there is an entire Disney community called “Celebration”? Yeah, like “Mexico”. Living in a place called “Celebration” must be a very “Truman Show” type of existence. If I lived there, I’d be running for the exit door out of the bubble.
Living in a Disney community terrifies me. It was all we could do to survive four days at Rock and Roll Paradise or whatever it was called, although the pool area rocked. They do, at least, understand what it means to cater to people with small children.
Oh yeah, Nava’s right: people love that place. And the one in California, too. I wouldn’t mind going back if I had to attend a conference in Orlando or something, but these people schedule their lives around their Disney vacations. Hey, I don’t get it, but, to use one of my favorite lines, “it’s good that everyone likes something different.”
Gawd. The very thought of DisneyWorld horrifies me. But I did like DisneyLand when I was a kid. And then again when I was old enough to experience the place in a slightly, uh, mind-altered way.
But I can’t imagine who would decree that a perfume be available only there!
The Guerlain boutique was there when I went two years ago and had a much better selection than Saks. There was also a selection of Miller Harris perfumes in the England section and Bulgari perfumes in the Italian section. Everything was tasty the last time I went to Epcot because we went during the food and wine festival, so there were sample vendors everywhere.
That is so interesting. I’d think that would be a total flop, fine perfumes at Epcot, but if they’ve been there this long, what do I know? It must be successful if they’re still doing it.
Pah! They sell cashmere sweaters in “England” and people buy them. The Guerlain boutique has nice SAs and usually has things that are difficult to find.
Celebration? Disney has pretty much divested itself of any financial interest in it – perhaps after the builders started getting sued? 😉
Nava, the folks who think the sun rises and sets on Disney think that because they don’t live here. I’m grousing because I’ve been invaded by relatives this spring all wanting me to give them escorted tours of the Disney theme parks. Grumble.
Back on topic, how is it possible that Portofino lasts on Louise, but is gone from my skin in less than 30 minutes? Grumble.
Okay, now you’re making me giggle again. Dammit, what IS it about seeing the countries’ name in quotes that strikes me as so hilarious? Just seeing “England” got me guffawing again.
You’re not the only one who it didn’t last on. The Nordstrom SA sprayed it all over my arm and I couldn’t smell it even with my nose right at my arm by the time I was playing in Sephora within 30 minutees.
Oh, that’s terrible. Well, another thing you won’t have to buy!
Did somebody say discounter? Hmmm…needing something that I can actually find, other than Eau de Patou, which I love, but is like searching for hen’s teeth to find.
Now see, I say that, but really don’t know how hard hen’s teeth are to find. Limpets, on the other hand, I can ken how hard they cling…my little widget tells me so.
P.S. Bad news…the Ad Which Shall Not Be Named is now appearing, even when I’ve clicked through to the comments/article only…
Hey, conduct an experiment for me, willya? Change your display (that’s not the right name) from Arsenic and Old Lace to Cherry Girls and see if it goes away. It’s the box on the left column right above the Total Beauty Ad.
Well, though it’s NPSFW, I tried it…no issues on one try…but not sure what to make of that. 1) it doesn’t come up every time I sign on, and 2) I am using a Mac. FWIW.
Heh. Cherry girls is less porny than the other one. We’re such dimbulbs it never crossed our minds, the whole NSFW issue!
Hens and all other birds have gizzards, so they don’t need teeth. And I am not entirely if limpets have teeth or not…..
I remember reading that snails have teeth and the thought gives me nightmares. Refuse to find out about limpets.
How can you not love this blog??? 🙂
I’ve sprayed the Portofino on myself at Nordstrom at least 6 times in the past few weeks (OK, you know where I hang out….), and am almost ready to spring for a bottle. The only holdback is that the juice goes quite sweet on me…must be the almond. I’ll grab some C.Blanche for our next visit, and you can compare. Oh, and I think that the two might layer really well.
It’s got decent lasting power even on my naughty skin, and is really just an “easy” scent.
Off to the discounters I go 😉
I really like that Cologne Blanche…thinking maybe my little decant won’t do, eh?
Oh, no, it goes sweet on you? Phooey. Now that I’ve been tipped off about the discounters, I’m tempted to pony up. Also… have you seen Gail recently? I haven’t seen her in weeks. It crossed my mind yesterday, I wonder if she left? That would be sad.
I’d love to try the Blanche!
This sounds pretty darn nice, and it’s nice that it finally showed up in stores. Count me among those looking forward to Pondichery. Hopefully we’ll be able to get our hands on it before summer is over.
Ya, watch it show up in October. (eyeroll emoticon) Are you our orange blossom dude? I can’t remember. It might be Mark David. Anyhoodle, if you’re in Nordstrom any time soon I’d love to hear your opinion.
You must be thinking of another dude, although I recently have been warming up to orange blossom a lot. As long as the sweetness is cut with some citrus zest, I enjoy it. I really dig that new Varvatos Artisan, and I also recently discovered the wonders of a sample of MPG Jardin du Neroli.
I think I’ll be cruising through Nordstrom soon to try this out, but I’m already plotting acquiring a decant.
Clearly my medication needs adjusting, I just had a fresh burst of hilarity at the thought of cruising Nordstrom. Anyway, I cannot decide about the Varvatos Artisan. Some days I think it’s excellent, and some days it just seems juvenile and too sweet. One of these days the SA in the men’s dept there is going to take the bottle away from me and smack me upside the head with it.
Okay,
1) a limpet?
2) I am going to die because of your red lippies post, which made me go to Sephora today to check out Dior Rouge Premier and spend an hour sampling every other red lipstick in the store while I was at it. NYC lipstick testers during a swine flu epidemic…my husband went positively Ricky Ricardo on me when I happened to stroll up clutching a tube of NARS with telltale splotches of crimson wax all over my face.
3) If it doesn’t last for 6-8 hours, I’m deaf and blind. For dumb, see #2 above.
4) I live to gag people on the subway in July. I am pissed off that I am on the subway myself in July and not on Martha’s Vineyard, and dammit, you are all going to suffer right along with me.
5) a limpet?
What have you got against limpets, eh? I love that word. Limpet. Been trying to figure out how to stick it to a post for ages. Look for priapic and effulgent in upcoming posts…
hah, the lipstick insanity continues! I know, I know… I spray the testers with alcohol cleaner and make the sign of the cross over them. The eye-area testers I won’t go near anymore.
But you don’t gag yourself? The idea of being trapped underground wearing Addict in July terrifies me.
Gastropod just didn’t have the same ring to it.
You didn’t want just any gastropod…you wanted the tenacity of a limpet.
My children are like limpets as well.
My classroom’s eyes are like limpet pools…
Limpets are Incredible! Especially if they’re Mr Limpet! I’m stuck on citrus and vetiver for summer – the standbys are Agraria Bitter Orange (I swear it smells exactly like iced Constant Comment tea, with orange/lemon slices atop – yum!), JCE’s Cologne Bigarade (the thin one) and Vetyver and/or 4711…. this one sounds like it might be a bit complicated for those hot days – but one never knows, do one? Will spritz next time I’m at Nordstrom.
xo>-)
Vetyver… which vetiver? Was that Dior? Dang, I can’t remember. R&G? Jo Malone?
I love me some 4711, just picked up another one of those jumbotron bottles, good for what ails ya.
Have you tried the Turtle Vetiver by Les Nez? Intense vetiver. The subway in July vetiver.
Guerlain Vetiver is my fave (I need to stop throwing that ‘y’ in there, I guess – I get confused….). As with Mistress Shelley, it is one of my go-to scents for headache (luckily I don’t suffer from migraines very often, though if I did this would def be a balm to my wounded psyche).
But while we’re on a ‘cologne’ subject, I’m thinking Bois d’Orage would make a great extreme-heat scent. I spritzed my li’l samp yesterday and it brought forth all that’s needed for a sweltering August day…..there’s something else that smells like it that I used to wear in the extreme heat – I’ll have to go back and read the reviews….could it have been Eau de Guerlain? Or was it the Napoleon one – Imperiale? One of those is hovering on the friges of my consciousness….
xo>-)
Okay, you win! What, I don’t know, but you win.
Limpets are Luurvely, I’ve got no prob with limpets. You go girl with the limpets.
I just wasn’t thinking in terms of death and disease — the minute I step over the Sephora threshold my brain takes a vacation. The funny thing is that I tried on every dang red in the store and left with NARS Funny Face, which is the most wonderful, kaleidescopic, holographic hot blue-pink. So gorgeous! Probably waaaay to young for me, but I don’t give a shit 😉
On the subway in July I would rather be strangled by Tubereouse Criminelle than eau de armpit x 100. The best defense is a good offense, and if I’m smelling ME, I am not smelling THEM. Plus the hostility thing.
Um … what hostility thing? I’d not detected it. I wonder if you could use TC or MKK to clear yourself some personal space on the train? Not likely in NY, I guess.
Maybe if I wear your frontal lobe on my head….naah, not even then 😉
Yay! It’s so nice to have some good news for a change, M., especially after Robin’s sad Cristalle review. Looks like they’ve managed to pull off a pretty good fake bergamot for this one, eh? And to have come up with something for the base besides oakmoss or…nothing at all. I look forward to trying it and the Pondicherry.
And–it doesn’t surprise me that it’s at the discounters already. I bet whomever was carrying it before already unloaded their old stock onto the gray market. Nice to know, though!
I’m not up on the chemistry components. It certainly smells nice, and if Louise down there is contemplating it, I can’t be the only person it lasts on. And yes, I’ve been in a bit of a new-fragrance dry spell, so this one really pleased me!
Guess what? I saw this at a couple of discounters already. Weird. It is great and unusual, without being weird.
I said weird twice. sorry.
have a great day
Thanks for the tip, and I think “great and unusual without being weird” is an excellent description. And don’t worry about word usage, it’s rare that I reread a post without cringing at something. 🙂
Available at Nordstrom? OK, that means I need to revisit my sample and give it more sniffing time. I think I was reticent to give it too much thought since it seemed so hard to track down. But the Pondichery? That one sounds so impossibly good on paper, I can’t imagine I won’t adore it. Will be crushed if it turns out to be drek. Seriously, crushed.
I enjoyed it much more than I’d expected. If your sample’s big enough, this is one of those spray-with-abandon scents, I think. If it’s shown up on the discounters as others have said, maybe I need some?