Okay, I finally have the little devils in my hands. I’m not sure why I always rush for the Guerlain new releases so quickly. Hope maybe? Hope that they’ll hit something magical again like Double Vanille or Bois d’Armenie or even – Yes, I know, I’m crazy – another Jicky or Mitsouko.
As far as the bottle size. I look at this two ways, and can’t decide which is worse or better. Though the price is in the neighborhood of the La Matiere line, $200’ish, at least you get 200 mls in the bottle instead of 75. The other way I look at it is that they could have put them in a 75 ml bottle for $100, but more likely is that they would have put them in a 75 ml bottle for $150. Hermes does this crap too. 100 ml bottle is $120. 200 ml bottle is $200. I mean, seriously? Oh, well, they clearly are marching to the beat of their own marketing people with these choices.
Marina reviewed these on Monday. I spritzed New York first, just based on Miss Marina’s thinking it was the most interesting. Notes are narcissus, roses, daffodils, plum blossom, cherry blossom; fir cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla and orange. This is a wearable Winter Delices for me. The florals balance out all of the spices and fir, which are so over the top in Winter Delices, and it renders them soft and warm instead of whacking you in the face with a fir tree and a cinnamon stick. It definitely has a nice smoky leather note that is enchanting and just about right for those of you that like leather, but don’t want to smell like you’re outfitted head to toe in rawhide. I definitely do like this one and will happily wear it on those days I don’t want to be a dominatrix, which is most days, kinda.
Moscou has notes of fir, white musk, mimosa, lilac, incense, rum, saffron, fruits (cranberry, redcurrant, raisins, plum), bergamot, lemon, absinthe, almonds, chocolate, vanilla and tonka bean. Marina thought it was Flowerbomb lite. I sorta get that because it leans sweetish, but they added in a lot of gourmand notes to make this a great floral gourmand, and on my skin it veers way off into a lovely gourmand territory instead of sweet flowers. I seriously do like this one. It’s got the perfect balance of a gourmand – rich enough, but not so sweet that you’re gaining weight smelling it. The saffron, I think, really saves it on all counts. This is my favorite of the three, hands down. Not because I like the notes so much better, but I think they did a great job ot blending them and rendering it a compulsive sniff on my hand. My nose has been glued there since I put it on, it’s just charmingly gourmand.
Tokyo has notes of jasmine, violet, Hinoki cedar and green tea. It’s a great floral woody tea. It’s my least favorite of the three. Not because it ‘s a bad scent, but I just don’t think it’s very memorable. I like it well enough, it’s well executed, and it’s a fairly perfect spring/summer scent or just a scent you’d like to wear to an office or wedding when you don’t want your scent to wear you. I don’t get much jasmine in it, it’s way heavier on the wood and tea. It is fresh without having that “fresh” nasty smell at all. So I do give them props for that. At least Guerlain knows how to make an open, fresh perfume without resorting to the tampax fresh accord that is prevalent in every nook and cranny of the world.
I do have enough in my sample set to do a giveaway of one set of samples to a commenter. So of all the new Guerlains in the last 10 years that they have released, which are your favorites? Or which do you believe to be the most Guerlain-esque, if any, or do you think the whole house has just crumbled into ridiculous?