Wow, did you have as much fun as I did with the dress-your-age and related perfume post on Sunday/Monday? That was some great discussion, eh?
I had another post lined up for today, but after Patty’s excellent, introspective post yesterday I’m just not feeling the snark. Look for it next week, no doubt I’ll be back to my usual self by then. In the meantime, here’s a candy post and one fall lipstick item.
Profumum Fumidus – Essence of distilled scotch, vetiver root, birch bark. I’m stealing the blub from LuckyScent: “Fumidus means smoky, and smoky it is. The smokiness of aged Laphroaig scotch served neat, It is also earthy – the earthiness of rich, freshly tilled land surrounded by uncut forest. Deep and magnetic and commanding, this blend of rich peat, grassy vetiver and brisk birch conjures up a vast estate and its moody young lord making his way through the fog on an unruly stallion…” Hehe, don’t you want to fan your loins now? I kept hearing folks rave about this, and I figured the name means “smoke” or thereabouts, so I got my hands on a sample. Well … it’s really interesting. That’s not damn-with-faint-praise, it’s just not me at all. I have ZERO idea what scotch smells like, although maybe I’ll go down and look in the cabinet, I think the Big Cheese likes a good scotch. The drydown of this is pure vetiver on me, and … I am just not the queen of vetiver, ya know? Not even Chanel Sycomore. And the first bit, with the scotch, is not smoky on me so much as muddy, in the style of the vast majority of Bertrand Duchaufour’s compositions for L’Artisan and Eau d’Italie. I almost scrubbed it. I’m sure any number of you would be thrilled with it.
Calé Fragranze d’Autore Mistero – “With hints of saffron, mint, rhubarb and basmati rice, this is an incredible fragrance. Created by Silvio Levi and Maurizio Cerizza, Mistero features top notes of rum, rhubarb and mint; middle notes of pimento, elemi, saffron and basmati rice; and base notes of oakwood, agarwood, labdanum and musk. It is an EDP and is not available in the United States.” You know I got this for the rice, yes? Well, and the saffron, and the rest of it. This one I just can’t decide on. The top is sharp and a bit bitter and (okay) not my favorite; the saffron has that extra edge to it that reminds me why so many people cut it with rose. Then we get to part B where I get a lot of the basmati rice (squeee!) on top of the woody base, and I alternate between loving it and feeling it’s a little light, maybe I’m somewhat anosmic to the musk? I’m pretty sure I am, I would not describe this as a super-light fragrance. So jury’s out on this one.
Finally, Calé Fragranze d´Autore Preludio d’Oriente “was based on A Thousand and One Nights, the allure of the Maharajah’s gardens and the love story told by the Taj Mahal. Created by Silvio Levi and Maurizio Cerizza, Preludio d’Oriente features top notes of bergamot, lemon and mandarin; middle notes of artemisia, incense and chamois leather; and base notes of patchouli, sandalwood and agarwood. It is an eau de parfum, edp.” Ding ding ding! And we have a winner! This is predominantly incense on me, and I can never have too many incenses. It reminds me a bit of Heeley Cardinal (the incense part) only more so, the Cardinal was never quite what I wanted it to be, crossed with the raspy drydown of Black Cashmere, only less so – BC can kill me on the wrong day, and like Chaos, man, it is persistent. The leather and artemisia add some interest and keep it from being a basic woody incense. I kept thinking the citrusy top would leave but it stuck around for a couple hours, not that I’m complaining. I’m glad I have this to add to my winter lineup.
Finally, in lipstick news (it’s been awhile, hasn’t it) – I don’t know if you remember but I was obsessed with the Dahlia lipstick as part of the Dolce & Gabbana makeup line after I saw the spread in Vogue where they used it (image at top, I’m sorry I can’t find a page with a close-up of the lips — while they’re clothed). I think you can get D&G only in two places in the US – Saks NYC and … somewhere else (?) The Dahlia color sold out right away but they got it back in. I went there a couple months ago to check it out.* It’s not that dark, purply goth lippie that everyone’s showing this fall, you know what I’m talking about, and I am too pale and too old for that business, I look like Cruella de Vil in those shades. Dahlia is a lot of effect on me, only less eggplant. I am now recollecting that there are two Dahlias, and/or possibly two of most colors, depending on whether you get the gloss or the cream formula, or some sort of variation like that…. Yep, browsing Saks online you can get the shine (#80) or the cream (#160), I got the cream. My guess is on someone with warmer and more olive skin, it would work great but register as more of a wearable pink, and here is a link to the Gaia the non-blonde’s post on Dahlia, I think I’m right (she calls it a red-based rose.) On me it’s a delicious, slightly transgressive dark-toned non-red that strays as close as I can get to the goth line without looking stupid. I’d have named it something like Berry Noir. It’s a cool color and I don’t have anything else like it. Here’s another Dahlia link with application tips by Pat McGrath, they call it an “intense merlot” which I think is an apt description.
*And now I’m going to tell a story on myself – I was sure I’d bought a different, lighter color, Dahlia having proven to be too dark. I even blogged about it. I guess I need reading glasses, I’ve checked carefully and my tube is definitely Dahlia! I swear the one I tried in Saks was too dark, I’m wondering whether the Dahlia Shine formula actually registers as darker on the lips? (Which makes no sense at all.) Maybe I’m just a dope and picked up the wrong tube on the display, or it was in the wrong slot, which is perfectly plausible. Anyone with insights? In the meantime, Dahlia’s shaping up to be a color that works on warm and cool skin tones, if Gaia and I are both wearing it, although based on her arm swatch it looks like it would be a much more subtle color on her.
Oh, also — here’s a link to French Essence, a great blog on things French, with lots of fetching illustrations, which I wanted when I was trying to contemplate French style. Thanks to Angela (and Carter) for recommending it.