The Candy on My Desk

Housekeeping details – in the move to the new blog host on May 1-ish, we lost about 30 hours of blog posting, including Patty’s Winners post with all the great haircolor comments on there (which bums me out), and the tail end of the Dune comments and my responses.  I haven’t given up entirely, but my guess is we aren’t getting that stuff back, and I’m sorry. Patty’s trying to fix her inability to comment.  Finally, my comment notification in my inbox seems a bit spotty.  Okay, on to today’s post…


It’s a testament both to the avalanche of new releases and the amount of samples I get that I have things like Donna Karan Iris sitting around here somewhere, still unsniffed, two (?) months after receiving it.  It’s been awhile since I’ve done one of my half-assed, poorly-researched, utterly biased candy samples posts (unlike my scrupulously prepared, impartial regular posts.)  So here’s a review of everything on my desk today, with my stream-of-consciousness analysis.

Ego Facto Prends Garde a Toi – which is French for, I pee on your hand and then as if that weren’t nasty enough I morph into a green floral with a wallop of Patty’s patented Tampax-fresh accord, although they’re calling it “mineral.”  Green notes, jasmine, lily of the valley, lily, hyacinth, nettle, woody notes, warm sand accord and kill.me.now.  Oh, look — up there in the sky — it’s Mister Yuck!  Welcome back, my friend!

Lelong Pour Femme – why can’t every woman smell like this?  Why why why? Heck, everyone – every man, woman, dog.  When I opened up the mailer I thought, something wonderful’s in here.  This, my friends, is perfume!   A heady floriental, notes are mandarin, bergamot, magnolia, lilac, fig, jasmine rose, tuberose, ylang ylang, iris, orchids, sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss, musk.  So – all your suspicions that I am a lover of heinous old-lady fragrances have been confirmed.  Here’s a link to Musette’s review. UPDATE:  And a link to Posse commenter Donna’s review, I’d forgotten about this!

ANOTHER UPDATE:  I’m not sure I’m being fair to Lelong by calling it “old lady,” it’s a zaftig, femme-retro thang (with a big rack sillage, warm and sexy.)  Here’s a perfect, direct crib from mals’ comment below:   “Wonder what I´m NOT getting out of LPF, that I don´t perceive it as “old lady”? I mean, I get a big retro vibe – it seems very much to me like an orchid satin prom dress, complete with wrist corsage and halter top and dyed-to-match shoes. Immediate spray-on Femininity. I know a number of people find it on the vampy side, too, but I don´t. I perceive it as a smooth, creamy floral, with an innocent sensuality rather than outright sexiness – a generous bosom supported (and guarded from roving hands, maybe) by a really sturdy 50s style bra.”

NOT Lelong Pour Femme? – Anita, honey, I think that’s the same juice.  IMO.  And thanks for sending me two of them, since I like it so much and I’m too cheap to buy a clock-bottle.

Ego Facto Poopoo Pidoo – eh.  Notes are citrus, orange blossom, rice powder, amber, woods, musk, and it’s done by Dominique Ropion.   I thought it would be more like KenzoAmour but it’s waaay powdery and a little sweet, sort of a cross between Kenzo Flower and Lostmarc’h Lann-Ael.  Kind of fun, but not for me.

Piguet Visa (vintage) —  I am on record as saying I like the new version, a fruity number done by Aurelien Guichard, although I know it’s a major disappointment to vintage perfumistas – sort of like if they reissued Bandit and it smelled like Kelly Caleche.  Now that I’ve smelled the vintage, I understand what they’re weeping over.  Honestly, though, can you even make something like this legally anymore?   That base!!!   I wonder how many animals are in there … damn. That’s giving my vintage Femme a run for its money, skank-wise.  So intensely out of fashion I can’t really blame Piguet.   I do remember a quote from them saying they were a perfume company and not a museum, and I still like their new versions.  Baghari is great.  Also this reminds me I need to get ahold of some of Futur, I loved it at Sniffa last fall and then … I never smelled it again.

Come on, where’s my Donna Karan Iris? I thought it was on the desk….  yeesh, Soulgasm?  Robin, you wench, you gave me this, didn’t you?   Didn’t you?!?!  Gah.  Along with those Durgas; why can’t I find those, eh?  Did you smell this Soulgasm thing?  Notes: succulent peach, Anjou pear, South African freesia, ripe black currant, wild, night-blooming jasmine, delicate Eurasian lily, multi-faceted woodberry, clean musk, warm amber, sweet French vanilla.  Room-clearing.  JM&J … I can’t believe I sprayed this on, what a dumbass I am.  Well, it was on my desk … extremely fruital.  It’s like … it’s like the clearance rack at Claire’s threw up on me.  Like liquid Lifesavers, only sweeter.  It’s like blowing Pixy Stix up my nose, and not in a good way.   Mr. Yuck, please, save me!

Chloe Eau de Fleurs Capucine —  They released these in a three-set of eaux a few months ago.  I tried Neroli at Saks and found it too herbal, and the lavender didn’t interest me.  Capucine, though … hmm.  Notes for Capucine are bergamot, lemon, neroli, galbanum, sage, juniper berry, rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, ambroxan and musk.  Wow. That’s actually pretty cool, did anyone try this?  It’s intensely green, almost bitter – like an herbal-green rather than a grassy one.   I swear to God it reminds me so much of some man-cologne from my youth – Brut, maybe?  No, something green, Mennen aftershave?   Something my dad would have worn?  No, wait!  Wait, I swear, it’s Claiborne for Men!   (Notes for Claiborne are bergamot, lavender, lemon, cyclamen, juniper, rose, carnation, cedar, patch, musk, leather, moss, amber.)  Is it even possible?  I wonder.  Anyhow, of the set, worth trying.

Roger & Gallet Amande Persane – let’s end on a high note.  While this (sadly) isn’t sitting on my desk, I wish it were.  I tried it in Paris, where it had just come out.  Notes are bergamot, mandarin orange, bitter almond, iris absolute, tonka, atlas cedar.  I am already something of a R&G fangirl; they are stocked at a funny old grocery/pharmacy near me, and I am particularly partial to Gingembre spray and the Extra-Vieille and Cedrat soaps.  Amande Persane was a warm, uncomplicated charmer, with the lightly citrusy topnotes giving way very quickly to the heart of the fragrance, an almondy musk in which the iris displays its softer, more powder/wood side, although I wouldn’t describe the fragrance as powdery.  It’s surprisingly unsweet and a bit woody in the drydown.   It’s more purely nutty than cherry-almond (Rahat, Hypnotic Poison) and it doesn’t go Play-Doh/super-powder either (Jour de Fete, POTL.)  Also, for something that is relatively light and simple, it lasted about fifteen hours on my skin.  I’m looking forward to it showing up in the US.

Samples sources: all, private collection from friends, except I’m sort of wondering about the motivations of the “friend” who sent me Soulgasm…. (insert winking emoticon here)

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16 years ago

LOL!! Love the stream of consciousness posts
😡

That Soul Wrenching Fruitobubblegummy Orgasmic thing had been a sample I got through a promotion as well and I couldn’t believe the advertorial was so at odds with what I was smelling. They were aiming at a completely different imagery than the death by fruit scent! Suffice to say that I smell no Anjou pear or anything, just a potent mix of Fructis aromachemicals radiating off a petri dish. Niiiiiiice……:((

mary
16 years ago
Reply to  March

Hey, the Soulgasm name comes from a music festival:”Soulgasm caters to NYC’s elite dancers and party people in a non-judgmental, sexually open and racially mixed environment. “It’s always been about the music and a place to have fun without the worries that big clubs bring,” says Co-Founder and Resident DJ ‘The Wizard’ Brian Coxx. Coxx has been known to break records on the underground level to major labels such as his own release last year, ‘Soulgasm Sessions-Vol. 1’ on Strictly Rhythm and more recently “Gone”, featuring NYC native, Yasmeen. He will also be starting his own label in Spring 2010, called, ‘Soulgasm Music’.” So—now we know!:d

Sharon VA
16 years ago

I’m pretty sure I need to own Soulgasm. Opportunities like this just don’t come along everyday! Also, I work at a public library and there are times when having a spray-on repellent would come in handy.

Angela
16 years ago

I remember that Amande Persane! It was so nice. I’ll be waiting for it to show up here, too. Maybe it will make it before the cold weather kicks in again–it would be perfect for fall.

Flora
16 years ago
Reply to  March

You’re coming to Portland this summer? Cool!

They have several of the Lelong perfumes at The Perfume House, including Pour Femme. Just sayin’…..did I mention the full Montale line is there too?

16 years ago

ps. March, with you on the Capuchin (didn’t I send you that one, too? If not, I gave it to Shelley). The other two were vastly uninteresting. Capuchin is exactly as you described, though I don’t think I will spring for a bottle until it’s at discount.

xoxo >-)

16 years ago
Reply to  Musette

Not me. As far as I’m concerned, that’s either a monkey or one of those B&W variety show guests that had an accent. ;;)

16 years ago
Reply to  Shelley

I dunno darlin’ you might really like this. It’s interesting.

xoxo >-)

k-scott
16 years ago

Nice March, I love the odds and ends reviews! Thanks for the tip on the R&G Amande Persane, sounds cool- I’ll keep my eyes peeled for it to show up in the US. I still haven’t tried Poopoo Pidou, but god I want to like it just for the name- POOPOO PIDOU!!! Just typing it tickles my funny bone.

And speaking of hilarious, your idea for an AmEx frag is genius- when you go to use it you can’t. Ha! It would be like statement art. So, did you buy a new perfume yesterday (like you mentioned in your post)? What did you get? Inquiring minds want to know… 😉

maidenbliss
16 years ago

The more I read the more I want it. Musette, Donna, Mals, March, enablers all. A real sturdy 50’s style
bra, big-boned and sensual also yank my retro chain:x
This calls for evening wear in feather/rhinestone encrusted mules, a satin vintage gown, reposing on a chaise lounge, cigarette holder held just so, smokin’ up the boudoir…’Why don’t you come up and see me sometime, big boy’ ala Mae West. Which is also the name of my street.

16 years ago
Reply to  maidenbliss

You live on Mae West Street? 😮

^:)^

Lelong is actually just……beautiful. It is BIG but it doesn’t have to be – you can……

okay, wait. I was just about to deliver a whopping lie! =))

It’s effin’ HUGE!

But it’s not obnoxious.

and one can easily wear it daytime, just carefully.

xo >-)

maidenbliss
16 years ago
Reply to  Musette

Can ya believe it? Every time I give out my address people feel the need to make a comment
or two or three….where’s the sexy-face emoticon?
What was the whopping lie:((? I want to know!!
SOTD is TDC De Charmes Et Feuilles- aren’t you the one blabbering about it several times?
I so totally love it!! I’m feeling sprightly:x
So, is there an approximate twin of LeLong or does she stand in a class
by herself? Hopefully without a dunce hat in back of room=)) for being naughty!

16 years ago
Reply to  maidenbliss

Oh, the whopping lie was me about to tell you she doesn’t have to be Big.

It is Big. But Beee yooo ti ful.

I wore it today. Charmed me.

Yay! on Charmes and Leaves! It’s pouring today and freezing cold so def no on the CyF – but I LUUUURve that stuff.

I would think the closest I could get to Lelong is…

😕 probably Fracas, another fave of my big-assed self!

xoxoxo >-)

Flora
16 years ago
Reply to  Musette

Wearing it RIGHT NOW – AT THE OFFICE!:d:d:o

Nothing else quite like it that I know in the modern perfume world, which is why I adore it so. I am a “vintage” model myself, and I could never have pulled it off in my twenties. One of the advantages of growing older is finding perfumes that were MADE for women, not ingenues.

16 years ago
Reply to  Flora

Wow, LLPF at the OFFICE?!? 😮 You are a brave woman. I feel silly wearing it there (as I actually did the first time I tested it).

But it really is gawgeous. And, honestly, not all that huge on me. But then I’m a cautious applier.

16 years ago
Reply to  March

oh hush. It ain’t all that. It’s actually kinda warm and bosomy and charming.

Yeah, like the 8-x lovechild of Mae West and Jane Russell

I LOVE it!

xo >-)

Flora
16 years ago
Reply to  March

Hmm, I knew there was a reason my co-workers were staring at me today….:”>

16 years ago

Thanks for the candy review!

Poopoo Pidou did not grab me either, but then I don’t care much for those rice steam/wood pudding scents like Amour or HdP Blanc Violette.

Wonder what I’m NOT getting out of LPF, that I don’t perceive it as “old lady”? I mean, I get a big retro vibe – it seems very much to me like an orchid satin prom dress, complete with wrist corsage and halter top and dyed-to-match shoes. Immediate spray-on Femininity. I know a number of people find it on the vampy side, too, but I don’t. I perceive it as a smooth, creamy floral, with an innocent sensuality rather than outright sexiness – a generous bosom supported (and guarded from roving hands, maybe) by a really sturdy 50s style bra.

16 years ago

Okay, I have to ‘fess up. But first, in order to bolster my wavering self, I’m going to mention that I’ve got a generous hit of that vintage Visa, and I, too, find it all that.

The Lelong, however, not so much. But I just tried it once, and it was during one of those marathon sniffing sessions. Of which I’ve had no more than you can count on one hand, and which I intend to keep that way, since I’m pretty sure they come to no end for my sniffer nor for my migraineur tendencies. It was a hit Directly from THE Bottle of Musette, though, so there’s no doubt that I was smelling the right stuff. Just whether or not I was sniffing right. I’m a fan of some “old lady” scents – Norell, for example – so it can’t just be that. It’s got to be the direction of old lady…which I can’t conjure at the moment, because I just remember that my nose and brain said “um, don’t think so,” so I moved on.

Poor Musette. I’m not sure if she wanted to knock sense into me, or just shake her head in disbelief. #-o
🙂 >:d<

16 years ago
Reply to  March

I’m way open on chypres, quite tentative on aldehydes. Maybe I made the mistake of a careful half-spritz…sometimes that kills the Big Stuff. Kinda like driving a 12-cylinder around the neighborhood, but never taking it out on the open road. I like broads. And some Big Broads. :d I think, especially after seeing some of the chatter here, I just need to go back with my arms wide open, and see what happens.

16 years ago
Reply to  March

I wuz just gonna say that.

On Shelley’s Preferences: 😕

One >-) opinion:

Definitely NOT the big flower bombs. Greener or incensy-ier. Incensier? Hee!

Definitely closer to the bone.

Me? Go Big or Go Home. At least with the Lelongs & Fracas of the perfume world.

xoxo >-)

16 years ago
Reply to  March

Btw – that wasn’t a snipe at Shelley – not at all. I think she (you, Shelley) wears close-in frags very well. Me, not so much. Sort of like a teensy brooch on Jane Russell.

xo >-)

16 years ago
Reply to  March

And each of you swing divinely. 🙂

Robin
16 years ago

Well I didn’t think you would actually spray the Soulgasm ON YOUR PERSON, LOL…is that hideous or what?

mary
16 years ago
Reply to  March

After reading you and Octavian on Soulgasm, I actually want to smell it–it sounds like big hot mess of a perfume. With that name, I have to think the perfumers intentionally made something big and loud with lots of olfactory reverb. I wonder if it will find its audience. I saw an ad somewhere–I’m wondering where it’s going to be marketed, and the price point on it. Octavian took the opportunity in his comments to tee off on the Boadacea line, which I haven’t smelled, but which I have been wanting to try. What do you think of those, March? I will search the Posse on those, next coffee time–cheers! ~o)

mary
16 years ago
Reply to  March

Thanks, March–that news bit about the First Lady buying two of the Boadiceas caught my eye–I am so suggestible. And I guess the number of fragrances in the line is the reason why I don’t just break down and order some samples– it’s all too much. I will look up the notes on Wode, on yhour recommendation. For Soulgasm– I read a comment on of the blogs from someone who thought it was actually a “Bruno” type joke on the perfume industry. Now I really have to smell it. :-ss

16 years ago
Reply to  March

Bwah ahahahahaha the Soulgasm. Really. You actually did it? I got it in my Sniffa bag & seriously, all the other perfumes ran to the other side of the bag, they wouldn’t be seen near it. You really do suffer for your art, don’t you? 😉

Melissa
16 years ago

I love your sample posts. There’s something refreshing about these quick hit reviews. No time to pretty things up too much!

So, with the exception of Visa the Magnificent, I haven’t spent any time with the above list. I had a sample of Soulgasm that magically disappeared, unopened. And I think that I did a quick sniff of Poopoo Pidoo, but I don’t really recall. Maybe it was the name that interfered with the formation of a scent memory? Mild traumatic reaction at the thought of having to tell people what I was wearing? @-)

Reply to  March

The French way of writing Marilyn’s “boo-boop-ee-doop” in “I wanna be loved by you” is “pou-pou-pi-dou”. I guess this was a compromise. Pierre Aulas, who head Ego Facto, actually speaks pretty good English but I’m sure he didn’t catch the connotation, which is a pity. It’s a lovely fragrance.

Ann N.
16 years ago

Hi March, thanks for the informative post on odds ‘n ends. Although I’m not a Fracas or Bandit fangirl, I find myself liking Baghari, Futur and Visa, in their modern iterations. I don’t do animalic well at all in most cases, so I will have to remain blissfully ignorant of some of the vintage versions. You’ve now got me itching to try the Lelong.
BTW, most of the Cartiers are winging their way to you as we speak and ought to be in your hot little hands today or tomorrow. Hope you had a marvelous Mother’s Day!!

16 years ago

With you on Roger& Gallet. I have their bodylotions. Lovely smell, lovely texture and great for your skin.

karin
16 years ago
Reply to  March

I’m the same way – don’t like scented lotions. I typically use Cetaphil Body Cream (which is great BTW), but am looking for something different, more natural but scentless. Will have to check out Trader Joe’s. March, what’s the name of it (if you don’t mind posting)?

karin
16 years ago
Reply to  March

Thanks, March! I’ll check it out…

carter
16 years ago
Reply to  March

I highly recommend Penhaligon’s Bluebell bath oil:d

16 years ago
Reply to  carter

…and she’s back. 😉

Fiordiligi
16 years ago

Thank you for the giggles! Now, for me, it’s got to be the Lelong – must try – and I do need to sniff the vintage Visa too, because I’m another vintage person (in both senses).

You know, it’s no wonder I’m not really interested in most new releases when they are almost all so predictably unpleasant. Isn’t it sad? I loved the comment about an explosion at Clare’s. What a great description!

I have some of the vintage Visa and it’s full of an old base called Animalis: now you know why. I can also understand why it wasn’t re-edited as is, apart from the problem of the availability of raw mats: it’s actually not very easy to wear, not because of the skankiness but because it’s clearly from another era, as you say. Still, I’m happy to have it.

Melissa
16 years ago

Animalis? Too funny. You’re right about it not being easy to wear. It’s a stunner, but it’s challenging.

16 years ago
Reply to  March

Baghari. 😡

xo >-)

Fracas!!! ^:)^ (I have a buncho older (80s) bottles of Fracas so I don’t know what constitutes ‘old’ v. reform. I haven’t bought new F since the 80s! Love what I have, though, whatever iteration it is.

xoxo >-)

Reply to  March

I met Joe Garces when he was in Paris. He’s very passionate about fragrance. Baghari does have aldehydes but what Aurélien Guichard has done is use intensely powdered-sugar notes to create the same type of brightness and effervescence without the connotations of aldehydes.
Of course, the new Bandit pales next to the vintage which has got real animal materials in it, and much better jasmine, but it’s quite good. I don’t find the Fracas to be hugely different. Futur, which they tried to reproduce faithfully, feels thinner and screechier. Visa and Baghari don’t even attempt to reproduce the originals.

Flora
16 years ago

Oh wow, that sounds decadent! In a good way of course!

carter
16 years ago

Vintage Whore (aka Old Hooker) that I yam, I cannot believe that I’ve never smelled Visa, and now I’m kicking myself for passing on a recent split offer of one and the samel-). I think that somewhere in the back of my mind I am afraid (no, I am convinced) that one sniff of Visa will end in tragedy, vis-a-vis my Visa.

Now let us pray[-o< that some diabolical genius perfumer>:):-b doesn’t and insult to imaginary insult by creating a masterpiece of equal brilliance and calling it “Mastercard.” Ca-ching $-)#-o:-<

Melissa
16 years ago
Reply to  carter

=))

No more scents named after credit cards! A little too close to home. @-)

16 years ago
Reply to  March

=))

Flora
16 years ago

I have been cheerleading for Lelong pour Femme for ages, ever since I found it at my local shop, the only brick-and-mortar store I know of that carries it. Yeah, it pretty fabulous, isn’t it? This time, the old “they don’t make ’em like they used to” isn’t true- it feels very retro in the best possible way. Why Lelong does not promote this gem more aggressively is one of life’s great mysteries.

Holy crap, did someone actually NAME a perfume Soulgasm??!?! It apparently smells about as bad as the name sounds, thanks for the warning.

I hope you had a wonderful Mother’s Day!

16 years ago
Reply to  March

Donna was the generous genius who introduced me to Lelong! She sent me a little samp of the PERFUME! which is so incredible it makes me weep.

I am forever in her debt.

You can get the edp pretty inexpensive and if you couple it with the body CREAM (not the lotion) you get a fair approximation of the perfume. I got both on the eeeB.

Funny you should mention Lelong today – I am back in hospital mode with my pop and had a 500mile turnaround drive yesterday. 🙁 I’m almost too tired to speak and I still have to go back down to P today to check on my pop, of course. Mitsouko ain’t the thing, as I will probably start stabbing people with syringes…and aldehydes are just too knifey for a chilly spring day like today. Lelong was my choice for getting through the day and seducing everyone (men and women alike) with my fantabulous scent, so I can get what I need to get done!

On that stupid perfume bottle – I beeyotched about that in my review. I would actually lay down serious simoleans for the perfume – if I didn’t feel like I was paying for that stupid clock! :-w

Glad I sent you two of the samps – that was a weird thing, kinda like me finding cumin in Ald44 – sometimes my nose just ….. /:)

y’know?

xoxoxo>-)

Flora
16 years ago
Reply to  March

LOL, Octavian does not hide his feelings very well either! :d

The EDP bottle of the Lelong only has a simulacrum of a clock – on the Parfum bottle, it’s functional. Plus with the EDP you get those fabulous leopard-print buffalo horns, or whatever they are supposed to be. Trust me, it’s the most funnnest botle cap EVAH!

16 years ago
Reply to  Flora

LeLong Pour Femme is faaaaaabulous. Retro fabulous, but still. I imagine I’ll be wearing it frequently, particularly on Date Nights. (Thanks again for the sample, D.)

Flora
16 years ago
Reply to  mals86

My work here is done then. :d

mary
16 years ago

Happy Mother’s Day, March! Thanks for reviewing the odds and ends on your desk. Oy, the TF accord. I decided this am to use up my Parfum Sacre sample for Mother’s Day. I love reading about Rogers and Gallet– used to find their soaps at Cost Plus on SF . . .