Vero Profumo Rubj EDP – Perfume Review

After reading Angela’s review on Now Smell This of the new Vero Profumo Rubj EdP version, I knew I had to sniff it right away.  Cumin-haters: you can stop reading right here.

Vero Profumo fans are wild about the intense, brooding, funky-vetiver Onda.  The original Vero Profumo Rubj extrait was much more my thing.  It smells mostly to me of ripe orange blossom and jasmine, and/but for whatever reason it failed to grab me enough that I

Vero Profumo Rubj EDP

felt I needed to own it.  The new Vero Profumo Rubj EDP has a different, lengthier list of notes, cribbed from LuckyScent: bergamot, mandarin, neroli, passion fruit, cumin, orange flower absolute, tuberose, basil, cedar, oakmoss, musk.

LuckyScent articulates the change in the fragrance as a “narcotic white floral blend, but in this version, the indoles have been turned down and the civet removed,” and they go on to discuss the chypre structure.  That’s all true – this is much less indolic, because now the drama centers around cumin.  And when I say “centers around cumin,” I mean Rubj EdP showcases cumin the same way the dancing hippos in Fantasia tend to take up a little space on the stage.  The new Rubj is definitely for hardcore cumin freaks, and most likely hell for everyone else.  Think: cumin, juicy orange (not just blossom); and a slightly bitter-mossy base that keeps it more elegant and complex than either new Femme or Kingdom.

I’m not even going to pretend to be objective here; I love cumin. I love cumin so much that my only complaint about cuddly, cumin-y reformulated Femme is that I wish the cumin lasted longer; when that fades I dab Eau d’Hermes on top of the Femme base to restore the cuminy bits.  I end up doing the same thing to Lutens’ Fleurs d’Oranger (heresy!), and now I think Rubj EdP will be my new cuminy addition on top of FdO.  The other six (nine?) of you cumin freaks feel free to get on here and name your favorites.

Vero Profumo Rubj Sample sources: private samples; image: Walt Disney’s Fantasia (that’s Rubj on the left and Vétiver Sacré on the right.)

80 Comments
ElizabethN December 18, 2010

I'm so late to this thread, but I can't resist commenting. I am a cumin ho, too, and Rubj EdP is a dream come true for me - it's the perfect cumin-laced (laden?) orange blossom. DH hates it, but that's just unfortunate.:d One cumin I can't do (I don't get cumin in FdO) is MFK Absolue Pour le Soir. It's not the cumin, but there's something noxious to my nose in there. I'm afraid to retest it, though, because it made me nearly toss my cookies last time I tried it. And now, I can't even wear the cologne Pour le Soir, which I used to love, because of the association. Sigh. And I need to go try El Attarine, I think. Sounds yum.

tango December 9, 2010

Well I'm sorry I missed swapapalooza. :(( But I'm not sorry I missed cumin. That note and my skin chemistry does not work togather at all!

hongkongmom December 9, 2010

To little time to read all< have friend who is reallly ill but I did want to wish Patty a HAPPY BIRTHDYA!!!

Millicent December 9, 2010

All this talk of cumin, and no one's mentioned Diptyque's L'Autre?? It's cumin, full-on cumin, but herbal rather than floral or gourmand or skank or even sweat. There's a sort of clean sharpness to it.

Mals86 December 8, 2010

I have always loved that princely-hatted 'gator, so thanks for that. I'm not much of a vetiver gal, and was intrigued by the description of CdVS as being more tea and hay (ooh). Cumin... I sort of liked the cuminy bit of new Femme, not so much the rest of it, don't know why. Have a sample of El Attarine in my room that I should try. I get cuminy-curried fruit in the top of Rumba, too - Rumba eats my head but I love it especially for that hot-dust and wax thang. I'd have a sniff of Rubj except that it's orange blossom, and like Erin, I don't get on with OB unless some tuberose or something is whuppin' its butt (vintage Chloe anyone?). Am STILL trying to figure out why I do not love Portrait of a Lady, no skin space for El Att right now. And ya'll are FREAKS. In a wonderful way.

Musette December 8, 2010

Okay, I'm back: Diorama: Y'all are ca-raaaazay! Cray-cray-craaazay! There is NO cumin in Diorama. Okay, maybe just a smooch in the drydown - but so little as to be nearly nonexistent. I sprayed it several hours ago, got none at the top or middle....am I missing something? :-? xo >-)

Musette December 8, 2010

I'm commando right now....so I am going to try Diorama again. Somehow I missed the cumin entirely! Will report back. < ):) xo >-)

Disteza December 8, 2010

As the great cumin magnifier, I tend to stay away from those 'fumes that have them as a prominent note. I tried Rubj in the parfum and it smelled quite weirdly of strawberries on me. I wonder if I got the right jus? Anyhow, El Attarine, Arabie, and Safran Troublant are about as cumin-y I can go without destroying the countryside with my sillage.

marina December 8, 2010

Happy Birthday, Patty! March, Rubj in any concentration was headache city for me. And it's not like I am scared of any amount of jasmine. Same goes for Kiki. Don't know why. Onda is the only VK for me so far.

Shelley December 8, 2010

First of all, thorougly enjoyed Rubj and VS dancing in the pic. :) As for VetSac itself...I just got a sample of this last weekend. I can find the vetiver in there, but I'm one of those who used to be vetiver averse, so I might still be extra, erm, sensitive to it. But it really is much more about the hay and the sweet on me. Which means yay for the hay, hmm for the sweet. Am just on my first round with it this morning, so will have to see how this plays over multiple dates. I'd categorize it as having potential. I'd also say it's making me start to wonder what is with all the sweet in the latest L'Artisans? Except for that Al Oud. Holy tomatoes, Batman. I tried that one on skin in the store, thinking "Oh, it's L'Artisan, just how whomping can it be?" Answer: enough. I mean, it wasn't all out oud, and went animal more than bandaid, but there was no doubting its lineage. Whoompa. Not going near Rubj edp, I'm guessing. Too expensive an experiment for a cumin phobe. Unless somebody is hosting a perfume slumber party and wants to spritz me as a practical joke...you know, like putting peanut butter on the dog's tongue, or tape on the cat's paws. Which means, of course, I have no cumin recommendations to share. Except to never, ever turn your back on Kingdom.

Erin T December 8, 2010

As far as the Veros go, I admired Onda, but it was always about the Rubj and Kiki for me. I had largish samples of both parfums, but never bought either in the (adorable!) bottles, because: a)they were so darn expensive; and b) I could never decide which I liked better. I loved Rubj because I thought it was so beauitful even though it was sooooo not me: I normally find orange blossom quite soapy and shrill and in OB compositions I'm always praying for the jasmine to take over. Not so in Rubj. Kiki, OTOH, was right in my wheelhouse: freaky lavenders. I still like Kiki better in parfum, I think, but I can't decide on the Rubj EdP. The EdP is so much more "me" and I find it a high-watt gorgeous variation: but it's so much more like things I normally like that I still kind of like the wonder of the parfum. The EdP is definitely one of my top fragrances of the year, though. I'm surprised that people find the cumin so overwhelming - I know my cumin threshold is very, very high, but I found the passionfruit and the base to be the biggest changes. As for the cumin list, I clearly need to send you a package: you need some more Arabie (if my beloved is growing on you!), a Theo Fennell decant, and any other stinky thing I can find. Wish I had some El Attarine and Heeley Cedre Blanc myself...

FragrantWitch December 8, 2010

I had been unsure about cumin as a note but over the weekend I inherited an unwanted bottle of Kingdom and I have been really loving it! Between Angela's review and now yours, March, I must acquire a sample of the Rubj. Oh Santa....

Angela December 8, 2010

I'm saving up for my bottle of Rubj EdP. Even though I already have Femme and Jub 25, Rubj is different enough--more luminous, somehow, and definitely orangier--that I need it, too. A cumin for every mood!

sweetlife December 8, 2010

I KNEW it! I am slammed right now and shouldn't even be reading your review, M, but just had to stop by and see if I was right about your referring to Rubj the other day. I regret to say that whatever I am anosmic to in the original I still can't smell in the EDP, so it is almost pure-D SWEAT on me. Not the warm spiciness of cumin, but real human warmth. Whoa. You can have mine.

Victoria December 8, 2010

I agree, L’Artisan Coeur de Vétiver Sacré would make a very appealing springtime fragrance. Now, I am much more curious about Rubj! That one seems more up my alley, given my winter mood. xoxo

Suzy Q December 8, 2010

How does Jubilation 25 compare to the current Femme? I recently tried Jub 25 and my first thought was "oh, it's Femme only more expensive." And I actually like Femme better! I'm new to cumin, now that I know I like it, and so I'm enjoying this post and comments very much. Thanks.

maidenbliss December 8, 2010

Birthday Greetings, Patty! I was reading the lone review @ Luckyscent on Rubj EdP yesterday and decided this is a must try. . Come to me, cumin. Jubilation 25 is my favorite. I don't really another vetiver so haven't tried CdVS--since it's not garnering much praise, I'll pass. I just adore the little yellow shoes on Rubj:)

SilviaFunkly December 8, 2010

Love love love Rubj parfum and cumin normally works for me, however I did not like Rubj EDP at all. I think may be it's the passion fruit that disagrees with me, it's odd for me to reject a scent so strongly. Unfortunately (for me) she has added passion fruit to all 3 EDPs. CdVS was a nice tea scent but failed to grab me. But I fall into the camp who was expecting a bolder vetiver statement. Fav cumins: Al Oudh, Kingdom, Jubilation 25, FdO, El Attarine, Rose31, Diorama

Robin December 8, 2010

Femme layered with Eau d'Hermes!! That is just plain mean.

donanicola December 8, 2010

^:)^ Rubj EDP ON TOP of Fd'O? Total Respect. I like cumin but it likes me more and then all I end up smelling is cumin. Two fragrances I love which contain the note - El Attarine, and Theo Fennell Scent I have difficulty wearing because I amp the cumin. Interestingly I am able to wear Francis Kurkdjian Absolue pour le Soir without embarrassment go figure.

Louise December 8, 2010

The CdVS was very pretty, very easily worn, but goes sooo sweet on me on drydown that I dismissed it. Must find my decant-maybe it'll be less sacharine in the winter? Hope so. Now, I like the Rubj in parfum, And had really high hopes for the EdP (including price point...). I love cumin-though I prefer the vintage Femme, I like the modern, and especially a transitional version form the 80's or so-cuminy, fruity, sweaty. Delightful. I love other cumin mixes-including Arabie, and various curry scents. But Rubj edp is just cumin on me. No roundness, no edges, no movement. It's just one dimension of Cumin, and I need more. I'm hoping that the Onda edp works better for me, because I so admire Vero and her work.

Tamara*J December 8, 2010

I am mildly aroused. I need to try this Rubj. I'm a cumin virgin cause it's not my favorite note but I do love Jubilation 25 and Diorama. Will this just blow my nose up? Why do want to try it if that happens...why am I attracted? lol. ;)

tmp00 December 8, 2010

rubj in perfume strength was nice and onda was the must-have. In EDT strength it was the reverse. onda was lovely but rubj was musthavenow... Probably the cumin. I'm a cumin 'ho. Odd since I'm such a pasty WASP.

Catherine December 8, 2010

Hands up! Hands up! I adore cumin, and I imagine it would balance out the sweetness I found in the original Rubj. Perfect! because it is such a great, happy fragrance. A sample I must get! Wonderful review--I love them when they lack all objectivity!

violetnoir December 8, 2010

Happy Birthday to Patty! I love CdeVS! I, also, love Onda! I have bottles of both. I never really tested Rubj though. That's strange. Now that you mention it, I need to test the parfum and the EdP. Hugs!

HemlockSillage December 8, 2010

I guess you can sign me up for the cumin freak club! I rarely register the note consciously, but it certainly is in lots of things I've liked. I love Rubj EdP. I blew through 2 samples in record time, nose glued to wrist. It is so different from the things I generally love. I'm an incense, woods and musk seeker. Mention passion fruit (lychee or cotton candy) and I *run*. Vero Profumo snuck up on me with both Kiki and Rubj. For me the sweetness in Rubj was perfectly balanced against the rasp of what I now identify as cumin. And moss. There is orange blossom/neroli to me. . .and then more big white flowers (read the implied capitalization there), and musk. Rubj filled a gap in my perfume wardrobe I didn't know I was missing. It's so feminine and lovely, I can't imagine why I didn't like that kind of perfume before. I'd flirted with SL's Fleur d'Oranger for two years, but never bought a bottle. Guess I was waiting for this one. Which would you say has *more* cumin? Just wondering! Now I need to find some Femme and Eau d'Hermes, purely to educate my perfume palette :D