After reading Angela’s review on Now Smell This of the new Vero Profumo Rubj EdP version, I knew I had to sniff it right away. Cumin-haters: you can stop reading right here.
Vero Profumo fans are wild about the intense, brooding, funky-vetiver Onda. The original Vero Profumo Rubj extrait was much more my thing. It smells mostly to me of ripe orange blossom and jasmine, and/but for whatever reason it failed to grab me enough that I
felt I needed to own it. The new Vero Profumo Rubj EDP has a different, lengthier list of notes, cribbed from LuckyScent: bergamot, mandarin, neroli, passion fruit, cumin, orange flower absolute, tuberose, basil, cedar, oakmoss, musk.
LuckyScent articulates the change in the fragrance as a “narcotic white floral blend, but in this version, the indoles have been turned down and the civet removed,” and they go on to discuss the chypre structure. That’s all true – this is much less indolic, because now the drama centers around cumin. And when I say “centers around cumin,” I mean Rubj EdP showcases cumin the same way the dancing hippos in Fantasia tend to take up a little space on the stage. The new Rubj is definitely for hardcore cumin freaks, and most likely hell for everyone else. Think: cumin, juicy orange (not just blossom); and a slightly bitter-mossy base that keeps it more elegant and complex than either new Femme or Kingdom.
I’m not even going to pretend to be objective here; I love cumin. I love cumin so much that my only complaint about cuddly, cumin-y reformulated Femme is that I wish the cumin lasted longer; when that fades I dab Eau d’Hermes on top of the Femme base to restore the cuminy bits. I end up doing the same thing to Lutens’ Fleurs d’Oranger (heresy!), and now I think Rubj EdP will be my new cuminy addition on top of FdO. The other six (nine?) of you cumin freaks feel free to get on here and name your favorites.
Vero Profumo Rubj Sample sources: private samples; image: Walt Disney’s Fantasia (that’s Rubj on the left and Vétiver Sacré on the right.)