Serge Lutens Vitriol d’oeillet translates loosely as “angry carnation”. I suppose one could look at it that way, in the way that one could indeed refer to a chihuahua as “barking fiercely”. I’s a matter of perspective. If you’re a small rodent it might be terrifying; to a doberman it must seem like comic over-reaching.
Coming from a house known for olfactory fireworks that have sent people running, the name seems the latter. Especially since on me the scent is nice. Just nice. It’s carnation all right, starting with a dainty burst of pepper then adding in ylang-ylang. It doesn’t do very much the progression is fairly linear to the slightly woody finish and it’s not there for more than a few hours on my skin. If you’d handed it to me in another bottle I’d never think it was a Lutens at all, certainly not one that’s “a burst of fragrant spikes” that’s “fraught with anger”. Serge Lutens Vitriol d’oeillet the Lutens for people who don’t like Lutens, and I’ll pass.
$140 at Aedes and LuckyScent, shortly to be at Barneys as well. I received my sample from Luckyscent. Serge Lutens Vitriol d’oeillet sample also available at Surrender to Chance