Let me get this out of the way: Vero Kern is a genius.
I don’t toss that word around a lot, but here it’s deserved. Her original trio of extraits, Kiki, Rubj and the (IMHO) irreplaceable Onda are truly things of beauty. A few years ago she came up with the idea of doing somewhat lighter versions that she asked me to try out and give her feedback on. (I wrote about them here) She wrote: The Eaux need a different structure by pointing out more the top notes and less on the base always by still respecting the original style of the Extraits.
I’ve simplified the whole composition. I also replaced the heavy animal notes by the unique scent of PASSION FRUIT which I love very much and which gives the creations a certain erotic readiness.
I have to admit that I was a bit diffident about the fruit note, but I couldn’t have been more wrong. Each one was in it’s own way a brilliant take on it’s headier, more concentrated sibling. The one that I liked best of the three was Kiki: the addition of the passionfruit to the wonderful lavender, mango and musk of the extrait adds a a giddy fizziness to it that I absolutely adore. The extrait I wrote of as being “an absolute delight from beginning to end“. The erotic readiness of the Eau de Parfum is, if possible even better..
$165 for 50ML (which these days seems like a bargain..) at Luckyscent. Mine came from the perfumer. Those in Europe might want to go directly to her website.
So interesting to learn you were involved with these before they were released – I must have misssed your original article on PST, great read, thanks! I admire Vero for not falling prey to a rapid release rate. Everything in her small collection is stellar. No dreck or “just nice” scents to dilute the good will you feel towards her line. I looooved Kiki in the extrait, and it’s probably my favorite of the three scents, suits me best, though it’s hard to pick it over Rubj. The EdPs were all fabulous and brought something new to the table, but it’s also hard to pick them over the extraits. Besides, the parfum bottles are among my very favorite in the industry – the shape and colour of the glass and the hot colours of the labels, just perfect. I did love the full-on sexiness of the Rubj EdP – a cumin-lover, me – so even though I love the extrait of that one, too, I think if I had the shekels, I’d get Rubj in EdP and an adorable bottle of Kiki in the pure parfum. Hard to choose, though…
I wasn’t really that involved. They were already 100% there I think.
I read this earlier this morning and then spent all day convinced it must be Friday. 🙂 When I wear Onda, (Decants. Another liquor store robbery worthy bottle…) I always think it feels like wearing a piece of art. I love it, admire it, study it. I am very much a Rubj fan as well. Looking forward to trying these new takes.
“Another liquor store robbery worthy bottle”
I LOVE that..
Hmmmm…. you’re making me want to try this. I loved her Rubj EDP (with the sweat) so very very much.
Oh yeah, baby..
Hey, Tom! I really like the Kiki and its creme brulee effect on lavender, but the cumin in Rubj was just too much for me. I keep forgetting about the Onda — must try soon. Thanks for putting it back on my radar!
I like cumin, so that was welcome for me..
Thank you for the reminder that I really need to get off my derriere and try Onda and Kiki. Rubj was a bit of a life-changer for me. Upon first trying it, I shouted out delightedly “This is NASTY!” (which as you fellow perfumistas and perfumistos know, is a synonym for wonderful).
Rubj is so darn good that I’m almost afraid to try the other two, fearing I might be let down. Silly, I know.
And Tom, how absolutely fabulous to have been a part of the creative process in the development of the EDPs. You should be justifiably proud. I know I would be.
I don’t think you’ll be let down. They’re all total winners.
I agree Vero is a genius and one of the nicest people I’ve run across. And I love all three of her creations in both the extrait and the edp, but Kiki is a favorite on the wearable scale.
I’m still anxiously waiting for something new.
I kind of like that she isn’t on that she hasn’t taken a seat on that “have to introduce anything” train..
Passion fruit? Caramel? From those notes, I would turn my nose up at Kiki EdP. I loathe sweet fruity things. I’m so glad I didn’t. It is amazing. I completely agree with you, it is delightful, beginning to end. All three of Vero Kern’s scents are lovely, and in high rotation in my perfume wardrobe. I own Onda in Edp AND extrait, but confess Rubj and Kiki (both in the EdP) get more daily wear.
My admiration for Ms Kern is like yours. She’s the only perfumer that I’ve written a silly fan letter. How’s that for a confession? I’m so amazed by her work, I eagerly await her next release, whether it takes 3 years or 10, I’ll want to try it.
I love Onda, though it scares me half to death. Rubj is just a marvelous thing of beautiful beauty. I would buy that tomorrow, had I the simoleans.
My sentiments exactly!
Onda is incredible and frightening. I open my bottle and sniff it periodically, just to experience it again. Then I put the bottle back in it’s box, cuz’ I’m too skeered to wear it.
Spritzing myself from a bottle of Rubj, however, is on my bucket list, very close to “moving to Spain and finally becoming fluent in Spanish.”
I completely agree with you!
I have the original Onda (sample) which is just ridiculously beautiful. I never did connect with the original Kiki but it’s probably because I’m not a huge fan of lavender scents. But ‘fizziness’? and ‘erotic readiness’? I dunno…..may have to revisit that!