Guerlain Iris Torrefie is the newest entry from the La Matiere line in 2020, created by Delphine Jelk, inspired by the cafes of Paris. Notes of cardamom, bergamot, coffee, iris, ambrette, vanilla, amber, tea and leather.
Those of you hoping for a redone Guerlain Iris Ganache, pump the brakes, this isn’t it. I’m still hoping too, although I sort think there are only ten of us.
I’m trying to place this in the pantheon of iris scents – it’s less gourmand than I thought it would be, which isn’t a bad thing at all. It’s got a more tea-infused open, with the iris being more of the rooty side of iris. I get some coffee on the open, and that sticks around for a while, and I really like this part. There is zero sweet, it is just a nice, dry iris. I keep trying to plop it over in Hermes Hiris, maybe Dior Homme? That’s not it really either. Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, but it’s not that cold and not that rooty, but it does have that charming little spice note in the drydown, below the iris.
It’s like in between the iris things, which is excellent because I don’t think I have anything like it.
It surprised me, being placed in the Matiere line. I think of Matieres as being more gourmand, more vanilla, but in the drydown, some of the vanilla does assert itself, taking it a little bit in that direction, but I wouldn’t place this at all as a gourmand.
Overall, I really did like it, maybe love it. It is quieter and needs more time to develop, and I haven’t yet decided if it’s love.
So if you try Guerlain Iris Torrefie, make sure to set aside your more gourmet Iris Ganache expectations – for good or ill. They just won’t serve you well. This is something else. A slighty rooty lightly spiced coffee/tea served with milk iris.
Winners of the Guerlain Black Perfecto – Troy, Queen Cupcake and Sarah Patton. Just click on the Drop Us a Note at the top, send me your mailing address and remind me what you won, and I’ll get it out to you.
Will be giving out two samples of Guerlain Iris Torrefie. Just drop a comment to be entered in the drawing! Favorite La Matiere, or do you hate them/find them not for you at all/love them, but yet to find a fave?