I am having a hard time accepting it is the second week in August.
We’re about to enter another (for here) heatwave. I can’t recall the last summer that was like this. Probably before I moved to this country – or maybe never. Maybe when Henry the VIII had six wives.
Anyway. Watching the economic news has convinced me I won’t be buying any full bottles of perfume for a good while. So, what did I do? I bought some samples. I don’t have a big enough stash to ‘shop my stash’ and a person’s still got to perfume (and so far my trawls of local charity shops have come up empty).
I got the samples from a London shop called Roullier White. It’s one of my go-tos for samples and it offers all kinds of other stuff besides perfume (cleaning products, home accessories, etc) but it still has a reasonably varied and interesting perfume offering.
So, I went through the listings and settled on two (really, I did) fragrances I really felt like trying. Sent off my order and received an email either later than day or the next saying they had X but not Y and would I like to choose something else? Which I then did. And then I got another email saying sorry, our mistake, we do have Y after all. But as a thank you for ordering and showing flexibility (they didn’t say that second thing) we’ll send you four samples in total (ie, I’d given them two alternatives to Y) and you’ll pay for two. How’s that for customer service???
I think I’ve said in the past that I really like Hiram Green as a house. I own a full bottle of Dilettante (beautiful, lush orange blossom thing which was discontinued a couple of years ago – not good) and a 10 or 15 ml (I can’t recall which – and they no longer appear to offer the smaller size – again, not good) of Slowdive (honey and bees wax and hay on me and beloved).
So, first I had a look at the HG stuff to see if there was anything to pique my interest. Low and behold, there was Hyde (the name seems to be a play on animal hide and Mr Hyde, ie, changeable), a leather-centred fragrance. So, popped that in basket. Then, picked number 2 (I’ll write about numbers 2-4 together at a later date, as they are all the same house) and checked Posse to see if it had been reviewed. It appears not. Hmmm… (I did re-read Portia’s post on HG Lustre from 2020, but that’s also now discontinued: http://perfumeposse.com/2020/05/14/lustre-hiram-green/)
Hyde was released in 2018. I don’t know how I missed it but I did. Anyway, as noted above it’s a leather perfume. So, if that’s your jam (as Musette and alityke say) …
Just to say here that I do love birch tar as a note. I find it easier in Le Labo Patchouli 24 though vs, say, Tauer Lonestar, even though I admire that in very small doses and mainly on fabric.
Hyde is heavy duty. Let’s just get that out of the way. You might not think that from the notes list, but, well (as the Mark Baum character in The Big Short says), you’d be wrong. Lemon, bergamot, birch tar, cassie, labdanum, vanilla and oakmoss.
On me, this starts lemon and bergamot fresh which before I had read the notes list read mint/menthol in my head. Don’t know why. That chemistry thing. This phase doesn’t last very long. The fragrance then does this fall off a cliff thing and for about 15 minutes I smell grilled meat. It’s weird (and I want to say unpleasant but it’s not, it’s just weird). But after that first half hour we’re into leather territory and that’s what it does for a good many hours: beautiful tanned leather, sticking your nose into the shoulder of a horse. With hay for good measure. Which appears to be the cassie (according to the Eden Botanicals site, this smells “rich, sweet, warm, green, honey-floral … with pronounced powdery and soft cinnamic-balsamic undertones…”)
Hyde dries down to a leather-vanilla sweetness, which is much better than it sounds, with enough astringency from the oak moss to keep things pleasing. I could still smell it on my wrist following days (ie, I wore it for several every other days).
Longevity is, well, long.
I really admire this. It’s really well done. And I enjoy wearing it when I wear it. It would never make it on to a full bottle list for me simply because it’s a leather that I feel wears me rather than the other way round. I think if I were to add a leather to my list it would be Knize 10, which is lighter and in which the florals are a lot stronger on me.
Interestingly, on my son, Hyde is woodsmoke. That.Is.All. Just really beautiful woodsmoke.
It’s offered in the lovely smoothly rounded heavy Hiram Green bottles (see pic of Dilettante and my small Slowdive bottle). Streamlined and classy. On the HG site, 50ml is €169. In the UK, it’s £135. In the US (I only looked at Lucky Scent), it’s $175. Regarding Australia, the HG site lists The Garden of Spring, which, when I click on the link brings me to someone’s Instagram page…
Have you sampled this? Do you like leather (you can answer that any way you want)?
I’ve wanted to try some of these for a while- you’re sparking my curiosity again..
They are well worth sampling. It’s too bad Dilettante is gone. But definitely Slowdive worth a look and this one as well.
Hey there Cinnamon,
I also reviewed Hyde this month, on A Bottled Rose for our Scent Semantics group adventure.
What a fragrance!!
Sad to read Lustre has gone. I love it’s weird assed beauty.
Can you believe these fragrances are naturals?
Will go have a look at that review. When I was writing the post I couldn’t find a lot of material on Hyde. I find it interesting Green has culled so brutally. I’m sad to see Dilettante gone, though.
I like really soft, refined leather and suede notes like Cuir d’Ange, Bottega Veneta, Cuir de Russie edt, Jolie Madame. This would probably be too strong for me. But your post does remind me that years ago someone gave me a Hiram sample I never tried. I need to dig it out and wear it this week! Thanks cinnamon!
This is refined (as HG scents seem to be) but it is not soft. Rather, very full on. I am thinking I need to check out the remaining ones I’ve never tried (there are only 7 on the website now).
I have a sample of Hyde but haven’t tried it yet. I do love HG scents….currently I have Moonbloom, Voyage, and Slowdive. Love them all!
I have a lot of time for HG. Even if I haven’t liked something it has been well done. And I definitely need to revisit Moonbloom.
So good to know some citrus openings feel mentholated too. Not really a smell, more the feeling of clearing the sinuses, clears the head almost.
Tauer’s LADDM smells of phenolic barbeque to me so they could share the same note.
I love a leather but I’ve started a downsize & shall be sniffing vicariously for a long time to come.
More excrement has hit the fan here, expecting more news tomorrow. We know it isn’t going to be good.
I had another go with it just for the top and it definitely is that mint/mentholated thing even though I now know it’s in theory not. I don’t have a big stash and the only thing I might divest myself of is a bottle of Strange Invisible Perfumes Magazine Street which simply doesn’t live up the sample I had.
I hope things aren’t as bad as you’re anticipating. Sending best wishes.
I’ve enjoyed Hiram Green fragrances, I have a little left of Shangri-La, a FB of Lustre, and sampled Slowdive (love), and sampled Dilettante (why didn’t I get more?). I’ve not tried Hyde, but I’m not a fan of smelling like leather. I can appreciate the scent on others perhaps for a nope for me. I don’t think my skin chemistry does anything for leather or smoke fragrances. I’m impressed with your customer service experience, seems more rare these days and refreshing to hear.
It was a surprise and very pleasing on the CS. I’ve bought from them in the past and things run smoothly but this was above and beyond. I haven’t sampled the Knize in years but I do recall it being dryer and more floral — and that I could wear it comfortably.
Ooooh, I love trying things on other people, they can smell so different! This would probably work my last nerve but it sounds just lovely … on someone else. Also BOO on anyone discontinuing scents, they should make them forever…
I was quite taken aback Dilettante was discontinued. I recall it getting an awful lot of love. I think Hyde needs a chemistry that really dries it out (if you know what I mean) which it appears my son’s does. I wonder why that is because I’m the one with low body temp and he runs hot.
That is excellent customer service! I absolutely ADORE Dilettante but do not own a FB.
Leather. Is. My. JAM! Honeyed, sweet leathers are my faves (I adore Cuir de Lancome and the Uncle Serge with the apricots (lordt – sorry – I’m in another room from the Messy Armoire and can’t muster the energy to get up – sorry). Heavier leathers: Chanel Cuir de Russie but only in parfum. Neil Morris’s Leather Garden is a perennial favorite, with this metallic floral note underpinning the leather.
Uncle Serge with the apricots … well, there are apricots in Rose de Nuit … It’s too bad we can’t get Neil Morris here. There are so many things I’d like to try.
Uncle Serge with the apricots = Daim Blond
THANK YOU!!!! Yes. Daim Blond.
Yes, that. Smooth suede with fruit. Haven’t sampled for a long while. Will have to revisit.
I love Hiram Green’s perfumes and own most of them, but Hyde was just totally unwearable, for the barbecued meat reason. I wish I got woodsmoke and leather but alas I don’t. My 1ml sample is a lifetime supply.
Agree that my sample will do me. A decant would be too much. I haven’t tried this yet on fabric. Might have a go that way.