Tauer Perfumes Golestan

Right, last week, I made noises about a load of samples dropping through the door. And they did. I received three samples from one provider plus a large sample set from a house I am not familiar with. I was planning to write about the first three samples together. But, once I started the Golestan section of the post it became clear that this needed to be standalone. So, that’s where we are today – and the other two will wait till next week.

Year ago, not sure how many, I read or heard about Tauer Le Maroc pour Elle and L’Air du Desert Marocain, his first fragrances made for a local friend’s shop, and set out to get samples. Duly arrived, tried the Le Maroc. Nice. Then probably next day sprayed on LDDM.

One of those ‘oh my’ moments, but a bit of a brain squeeze. I’d spray it on and smell and be drawn in over and over, like I did this for days, trying to figure out what I found so godawful compelling. Because it wasn’t specific notes that stood out. It was that overall smell on me. I gave up after a while and just accepted that I adored it.

I had one of my ‘I am at loose ends, I need some samples’ a number of weeks ago. I had seen something on Golestan and on something else that piqued my interest, so I went looking. I was able to order both at a new-to-me sample site here called Tiny Fragrances. Decent mix of stuff; good CS.

So, the parcel showed up and Golestan was the first thing I tried.

This was released last year (ie, 2022). First couple of samplings, this was a serious conundrum. It doesn’t smell of the notes list on me, at least for the first few hours, and I spent the times I sampled it trying to tease out individual notes without a great deal of luck before mostly giving up and just enjoying the ride. Because it’s a very interesting ride. And I was reminded of the experience I’d had with L’Air du Desert Marocain all those years ago.

The backstory on Golestan is Andy Tauer visiting a section of the Louvre he hadn’t been to before, covering the Persian empires and history. The visit sparked more research, leading to discovery of a palace called Golestan built in the 16th century in Iran, which was also known as the Rose Garden Palace – leading to this perfume.

Edifice of the Sun section of the Golestan Palace

Per the Tauer site, “the perfume of a flower garden”. Notes include ylang, bergamot, lemon zest, tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom, Damask rose, ambergris, vanilla, patchouli, woody notes and cistus incanus (below).

What a list! But on me, this smells of what I ended up, after a bit of head-spinningness, labelling ancient dust (this was before I read the backstory, so I don’t feel I was influenced).

As soon as I got my first whiff off the wrist I went looking for a review from the first Perfumes: The Guide about Guerlain Habit Rouge because I recalled the subheader having something to do with dust (turned out to be ‘sweet dust’) and I wanted to confirm that what I was smelling made some sort of aromachemical sense.  Per Luca Turin, that dust ‘sense’ derives from an orange blossom and oppoponax accord. A rough slightly floral scratchy dust smell. Ok, thank you, that helps. There’s orange blossom in this, but not oppoponax. So, I wondered if the combo that led me to smell dust might be the mentholated aspect of tuberose and/or the ‘wood notes’ or the cistus incantus, which is listed as having a woody herbaceous aroma.

This smells on me like how I would imagine the air around an ancient site smells. But maybe somewhere in Greece with that floral herbaceous smell you get in the hills. As I said above, I have trouble teasing out notes on this – until it starts to dry down. So, for the first few hours I just get that uncanny dust aspect.

Interestingly, on paper, I found it much easier to delineate different notes, getting a fruitier, lighter perfume, with something candied.

In any case, this is gorgeous. It’s long lived on my skin, and only hours into its development do I start to get the Tauer-ade (that amber incensy sweetness). Otherwise, it’s that other-worldly dust which is decidedly not sweet and after a while I think I can discern orange blossom, jasmine and tuberose, but I might be making that up.

Oh, and before I forget, the bottle art is beautiful: a take on Persian flower paintings. I wasn’t hugely taken with the art on the Sundowner bottle (very much liked the fragrance), but this is lovely.

So, this is extrait de parfum, 50ml and around £165 here. On to the ‘want’ list it goes.

Anyone else smelled this? Thoughts?

Pics: Golestan bottle pic with permission of Tauer Perfumes. Others wiki

  • Millicent says:

    Thank you for such a thoughtful review, Cinnamon. I will try this when it crosses my path somewhere, but that Tauer-ade doesn’t work so well for me either.

    A question for you gardeners: I am haunted by a cistus that has leaves that smell wonderful, along with bright pink flowers. For years I took little cuttings from a neighbor’s plant (now gone) and brought them to nurseries, but I was never able to propagate or identify the particular cistus with the fabulous fragrance. Have any of you smelled the leaves of cistus incantus? Might this be my dream cistus?

  • Tom says:

    This may be the thing that actually gets me back to ScentBar (have not been literally in years- not that they’ve done anything; I just kind of stopped going to retail stores during the pandemic and never started up again)

    I love his stuff usually so I’d like to see about this one.

  • Musette says:

    okay – so… this? This is why I so love mah POSSE! This gorgeous, thoughtful, thought-provoking review of a gorgeous, thoughtful fragrance. I love that we can be bazillions of miles away from each other and come together to experience the wonder of scent.
    And this? This perfume sounds like a dream come true! I’m a fan of Andy but not of the Tauerade, overmuch – but what is happening BEFORE the ade comes in sounds like it’s worth its weight in rose petals!

    • Musette says:

      and yes – that bottle is gorgeous!

    • cinnamon says:

      I do love what gets written here but the reviews most of all because there tend to be surprises, good and bad. As I said in comments below most reviews point to a beautiful floral. That just doesn’t happen on me. And I do wonder if that has to do with my low body temp. ‘Normal’ people seem to get specific notes, etc. Anyway, I do think it’s well worth sampling.

  • Dina C. says:

    I haven’t sniffed it but the ancient civilization aspect sounds intriguing. The last Tauer that I sampled was his limited edition(?) Rose of Kandahar. I remember that being beautiful and interesting.

    • cinnamon says:

      In all the other reviews I’ve read people get big floral with great drydown. I do think I’m a skin anomaly due to my low body temp. So, most of the comments were very positive but didn’t smell what I did.

  • March says:

    Oooooh, I would love some ancient dust, I’ll have to try this! And that was not what I was expecting, given the notes.

    • cinnamon says:

      As in my comment above, my body temp might make my skin reaction an anomaly. Still, even on paper this is gorgeous and well worth trying. To me, this was surprising, like the best of Tauer’s perfumes (LDDM, Orris).

    • Musette says:

      March, when I was reading cinnamon’s post I IMMEDIATELY thought of you – this sounds right the heck up your alley, doesn’t it? Here’s hoping!

  • Maya says:

    I was recently joking with someone about how every one of us lives in a slightly different reality. So, Golistan. I can’t even begin to express how much I loathe and hate it. It’s vile.

    • cinnamon says:

      Wow, that’s quite a reaction. Are there other Tauers that work on you or is this simply not your house?

      • Maya says:

        I tried LDDM when it first came out and thought it was very nice but ultimately decided I did not want a full bottle. This is the second Tauer I’ve tried and thought it would be great. Only 3 perfumes have ever caused this kind of reaction in me.

        • Maya says:

          It occurred to me that if Tauer used the relatively new synthetic, akigalawood, that would explain it. Akigalawood has gushing writeups, but on me it is like a resinous, burnt, toxic cloud that overpowers every other note in a perfume and lasts forever. That’s similar to what Golistan smells like to and on me.

  • alityke says:

    Tauer isn’t a house I’ve explored too much LADDM & MPE weren’t for me. LADDM smelt like phenolic barbeque smoke & MPE was just too rosy to me. I never tested further.
    Tiny Fragrances is a fabulous find

    • cinnamon says:

      Tiny Fragrances is good. Weird combo of stuff but it does help to somewhat round out what can be found here. If LDDM didn’t work on you some of the lighter ones might.

  • Tara C says:

    I love and own this one too. Feels like classic Tauer to me and very unique.

  • Brigitte says:

    Haven’t smelled it but I own bottles of LDDM and ACDD and love MPE so I probably should try this.

  • Filomena says:

    I love this fragrance. I think it is one of the best from
    Andy Tauer!

    • cinnamon says:

      It is so variable, isn’t it. For some people, Tauer stuff works beautifully. Others, not so much. And I’m surprised by how different it is on my skin vs paper. I like it much better on my skin.

  • ElizaC says:

    This is now on my list to try. Just wanted to say that the Persian part of the Louve is absolutely amazing! I’ve seen photos (art history major) but nothing could have prepared me for the real-life experience!

    • cinnamon says:

      I haven’t been to the Louvre in years. The last museums I visited in Paris were d’Orsay, Pompidou and Picasso. So, I think I’m really remiss. And indeed Golestan is very worth sampling.