So. I’ve returned from my trip and I’m really tired. Thus, this will be fairly discombobulated. Just FYI. Oh, and the trip is going to feed posts in different ways for around the next month.
First, it was a great trip mostly. The weather was … difficult. The first week was ludicrously hot; the second, literally over 10 degrees (Celsius) cooler with intermittent rain. I did not pack for this swing (though thankfully I had brought an umbrella) and ended up at H&M in Mannheim, Germany, coming out with a sweater, a turtle neck and two pairs of leggings to go under dresses. It looked better than it sounds.
I have hotel recommendations for Berlin and Paris — if anyone is interested. These are 4 star and not cheap but really nice, central and great places to return to in the middle of and after long days.
I have one lovely, amusing perfume story which will take up next week and the week after.
Things that didn’t happen: 1) the night before I left, just as I was falling asleep, my brain went ‘I don’t want to go to Knize’. So, I didn’t. It was 33 (91F) degrees in Vienna anyway and way too touristy. Vienna was a three hour stopover where I had a great lunch but it was really really way too hot. 2) the Lutens boutique was closed when I visited the Palais Royale in Paris. That was fine. See the nice pic of belle jars in a wagon wheel formation.
The PR is a wonderful place, particularly as Mother Nature decided it should be sunny and reasonably warm. It’s great for a wander, a rest and a good cup of coffee or tea (pic).
So, clearly, the perfume story relates to another house. No, I’m not going to reveal till next week.
Otherwise, a few vague thoughts.
I stayed with friends in Prague. It has to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. It is also way over-touristed. Way. Somewhere to go out of season. Winter is said to be magical. This is the clock in the historic centre which attracts way too many people.
And, I had dinner with friends in Paris. In a city of gorgeous food we ended up with mediocre Indian. Still, it was good to catch up. I hadn’t been in Paris for over 10 years – more like close to 20. Last visit, we stayed in the Marais and it was still a neighbourhood, where normal people lived. It is now tourist central. That was a shock.
Yes, I know, I was a tourist everywhere I visited. But the number of visitors in various places was shocking. I now fully understand why locals in some places are saying visitor numbers should be limited.
Anyway, this was the first real travel I’ve done since 2019 and it made me appreciate the concept of a ‘change is as good as a rest’ even more. I will not wait as long for next outing.
Finally, a thought about ‘souvenirs’. I came home with some really nice things (most of which I’ll discuss here in future posts). But, it is clear that most things to be bought ‘elsewhere’ can now be found at home. This made me slightly sad. Truly small, interesting, independent producers are out there but you really really have look for them.
Pics: Mine
Cinnamon –
Glad you had a (mostly) lovely vacation! That heat, though… oooof! I rarely travel during Summer but absolutely love going somewhere Not Here in late Autumn/early Winter. A friend is supposedly coming back to Chicago in Autumn (from Palm Springs) so he can wear a jacket! LOL!
I thought early September would be sane in Europe. Clearly, I was mistaken. Central Europe is seeing floods. Ironically, I came home to lovely weather.
I looked at the weather when you were heading out and whoa it was hot. Reminded me of summers working in downtown DC, surrounded by tourists who looked ready to drop dead on the spot from the heat and humidity. I’m glad I did some traveling when I was younger and things were a bit less crowded. I for one am grateful that I can now often get A Thing without going to its home country to purchase (perfume, skincare, shoes etc.) Then I can focus on the food while I’m there 😀
It actually wasn’t hugely humid anywhere. Just really really hot. Ah, food. The things I enjoyed most food wise were breakfasts. Ate these enormous, varied … pretzel rolls in Germany, croissants in Paris, loads of different cheeses, fruit salads, cinnamon buns. Plus great ice creams (not for breakfast).
Cinnamon,
I’m glad your made it home safely. Sorry for your weather extremes. That’s rough. I was very interested in all you had to share because we’re planning our own European trip this fall in November. I expect it to be chilly with some rain. I’m looking forward to more stories about your adventures as the weeks go by.
Layers would be my thinking. Will you be places besides Paris (am I correct in thinking you will be visiting Paris?)?
Yes, Paris, Riems, several German stops along the Rhine, and then Zurich.
Would love to hear theParis hotel recs!
Hi, hotel in Paris was Hotel Square Louvois in the second arrondissement. It’s just off a nice square with a pretty fountain. Very central for walking, shopping, museums, food. And, it has a small swimming pool in the basement.
Would love to get the Paris hotel recs!
I’m glad you had fun but sorry the weather didn’t cooperate more.
I hear you on the tourists. There are places around my area that I simply won’t go to on a weekend because they become impossible to navigate. (Even weird ones like the Grove shopping mall- don’t they have Barnes & Noble and the Gap on the moon by now? Surely you have a mall at home) but as long as they’re buying something it’s okay. I’ve seen the Hollywood sign and can go to Rodeo on a Tuesday.
I know I am part of the tourist hordes but this idea of all go to the exact same place just boggles the mind.
I’m so glad that your trip was a success. I agree that doing something different is a marvelous way to refresh yourself and become reinvigorated. It’s sad though that there are too many tourists in most places. It’s no fun being part of a herd. I am looking forward to your next posts!
I did read somewhere that the huge numbers of travellers was a post opening up after covid thing. we’ll see if that recedes a bit. fingers crossed.
Welcome home Cinnamon,
Yes, the globalisation of stuff has changed the way I shop overseas. Why buy my favourite Fortnum & Mason or Whittard teabags to bring home as gifts when they are available in department stores. Nothing special about having Calvin Klein undies when our local TKMaxx has them for next to nothing and once upon a time wearing Gucci loafers meant you’d been to Italy.
Bummer about Serge Lutens being shut, so weird. Did you happen to go to the store down the street?
Portia xx
I did find some ‘special’ things. But, I guess it’s part of the globalisation of everything. As to Uncle Serge, I didn’t visit the other shop — did pass it earlier on the way to some place else. And you can get the export bottles at Sephora. I really did love the Palais Royale though — interestingly, it wasn’t terribly overrun and touristy. Lots of parents with kids playing tag etc on the black and white stellae. A really great place to while away an hour.
I look forward to reading in more detail about your exploits.
The perfume story is fun. At least I think so. And did a bit of other scented damage which will make its way in to post…