I´ve been conducting an experiment wherein I wear one – and only one – fragrance for an entire day, to see 1) if I notice anything new in the drydown and 2) what it´s like for the other 99% of folks who aren´t running around wearing six (eight?) different scents at the end of the average day. I had originally planned for this experiment to last a solid week; I lasted three days before falling off the wagon, but the experiment was sound enough that it continues on an occasional basis. This experiment also coincided with that peculiar time of year here, weather-wise, where it feels like fall but is not quite cool enough to be fall (or dig out my heavier fragrances), so I struggle to find scents that please me. But there does seem to be a trend in the type of smell I´m drawn to…
Hermes Hiris – When I was a nascent scent slut, this one shocked me – there is nothing particularly perfume-y about it. I love its chilly metallic élan. An entire day allowed me to enjoy the drydown, which is almost vegetal, a fact I´d not noticed before.
Andy Tauer Orris – I did a full review of this. A powerful, all-day iris, slightly medicinal, on a sandalwood-frankincense base that stuns me with its beauty. The drydown is spectacular, woodsy/incense and still quite present the following morning. I am still thanking the perfume gods that Andy decided to release this for purchase later on this year.
L´Artisan Orchidee Blanche – actually a very iris smell on me (are you noticing the trend here?) But there is something both sharp and sweet that begins to smell annoying after a couple of hours. I cheated on this one and buried it under some Passage d´Enfer.
Parfumerie Generale Iris Taizo – Well… I dumped on the whole vial, and I have to say I was less in love this time, it was very powdery on me except when I really dug my nose in and looked for the orris. I´m fond of the woody base, though. Still a strong “like.”
Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile EDT – Okay, I like it a lot, the opening is sharp and green-ish, but it´s only “iris” on me for maybe the first 20 minutes. After that it´s pretty much all neroli. It turns powdery and then is gone in less than an hour, so lots of re-application. Once my decant is gone, I probably won´t buy more – I want more lasting power.
Dior Homme – the iris part is lovely. If I could just beat the homme part down with a stick, it´d be FBW.
Lancome Cuir – I only had a tiny sample of this, not really enough to do it justice, and I can´t find anything about it, with the exception of Colombina´s review. I´m fascinated by the way it morphs from a rich, ladylike vintage floral into an almost shockingly butch leather. You leather fans should definitely check this one out, if you´re lucky enough to find some… my guess is eBay is your only source.
Miller Harris L´Air de Rien — I just had to stick this one in. Wow. Their website says it is “an exquisite oriental fragrance of amber, vanilla, neroli, oak moss and musks.” I say it is somewhere between a horse stable and the elephant house at the zoo. Strongly reminiscent of the barnyard JAR, Ferme Tes Yeux, that Patty and I smelled – only more so. Ina at Aromascope got some different angles, but at the end of the day it was manure to me. Lasting power is excellent. Unfortunately. I´m not sorry to have smelled it – it was interesting, and there are certainly worse smells than dung – but I cannot imagine wanting to wear this.
Well, that´s it – I´m off to Vienna and Budapest for the next two weeks, for some fun, some food and (I hope) some sniffage. Patty’s driving the perfume bus until then. If you can’t be good while I’m gone, for God’s sake, be smelly.