It is good from time to time to take stock of perfumes that I have trashed with glee in the past that I now love or at least like a lot — excellent tonic for humility, that.
Chief among them this month is Annick Goutal Eau du Fier, with notes of bitter orange, osmanthus, salt flower, clove, tea, and birch, and extra heavy on the birch, and throw in some creosote and a Kansas Highway after it’s been freshly tarred. Smoke, fire and hot tar, how did I ever hate this? In a review many moons ago, I think I referred to it somewhat a lot pejoratively. I still think it smells like a hot Kansas freshly tarred highway in August, but for me now, that smells pretty great. Sad thing is the distribution on this now amounts to just the Paris Goutal boutique, and I’m not sure how many vats they have sitting in the back or under the counter, but if you’re there, grab one, it sounds like they won’t make anymore, and that’s a darn shame. I intend to stock up when I go in October and to use my newly minted French (Pimsleur French 101, and I suck) to explain to them why they need to start making it again and shipping it to the U.S. It, Duel, Mandragore and Sables are the most interesting of the Goutals, and I far prefer them to the florals they do. This part of the line gives it a great balance and takes it out of just another niche pretty floral perfumer into something much, much more. Perhaps we should all bombard them to make sure they keep the tar and pancake syrup around? Yes, I sure think so too!
Parfums de Nicolai. Most underrated deserving line in existence. Listen, I’ve ignored them too, but after March enjoyed them so much when she was in England and sent me a bottle of the divine Eclipse, I’ve been exploring them slowly and having a blast. Ina at Aromascope admires this line as well. If you’re looking for perfumes that do not follow normal lines, but have lots of quirks and eddies while remaining beautiful and captivating, spend more time with PdN. Maharadjah, notes of lavender, patchouli, sandalwood, cinnamon, clove. Blast of lavender on the open, which quickly dissappears, and then it’s like how red hots make you feel after you pop a bunch in your mouth — getting warmer and then hot and almost unbearable, but it’s the kind of spicy torture you enjoy until it settles down into a warm, enchanting scent. Yeah, yeah, like that. Love this one. Someone please slap me hard when I’m ignoring a line that is this great.
More to come on Nicolai reviews next week, as well as some more biehl reviews. Also, I had a drawing, um… well, quite a while back that I forgot to announce a winner for. It was for a drop of a sample of the Guerlain Pois de Senteur vintage parfum and four samples of the winner’s choice of the Memoire Liquides. And the winner is…. Anne! And because I’m so darn slow with this one, I’ll do a second winner, and that is…. Rosarita! Just hit the Contact Us button over there on the left, let me know which Memoire Liquides you want. You’ll have to check TPC for what’s available, and I don’t have all of them listed, some of them belong to my tpc buddies, so give me more than four choices so I can make sure I can get them to you!
Now, I have an interesting proposition that nobody seems to want to commit to doing yet, so I will. Guerlain is releasing Quand Vient La Pluie this month, and they have a 17-ounce vat of pure parfum for about $2450. The perfumer is Thierry Wasser and Sylvaine Delacourt. Notes of heliotrope, violet, rosemary, sambac jasmine and a skosh of praline (huh? oh, well, I do love Iris Ganache, so I’m trusting them that they made this work). I have no idea what the juice smells like, but since it’s a limited edition, I think it’s probably well worth having some. I can’t ever, ever consume, sell or otherwise dispose of 17 ounces of pure parfum, but this bottle screams for a split. There was one in the works at MUA, but they never quite seemed to come together. I’m willing to get this bottle and bust it up into 1/2 ounce and 1 ounce splits. But you’ll have to do it sniff unseen because there aren’t any samples yet, obviously. It should run about $90 shipped for 1/2 ounce (includes bottle, mailing & paypal fees) and $170 for 1 ounce (includes bottle, mailing and paypal fees). Again, this is the pure parfum. Those are estimates on the prices, but it should be pretty close. If you’re interested, drop a comment or click on the Contact Us Button on the left. Let’s make this happen!
Last thing… I’m awash in samples again, so let’s do a drawing so I can get rid of them. This will be a big grab-bag of tons of samples of things I already have, etc. Profumums, Parfums de Nicolai, Andy Tauer scents, Montales, CBs, and more. Just drop a note in the comments, and I’ll select a winner!
count me in, please!!! * tries to sneak in unnoticed.*
hi,
I would love to be in on the drawing,if it’s not too late. I was out of town.
love reading your words!!
thanks,
rebecca
I love PdN too Patty:)
Would love to be in the grab bag drawing if it’s not too late that is..i’m dreadfully behind in reading:/
thanks,
candice
i need to check out the nicolais – it’s one of those lines that hover at the edge of my awareness – in and out, in and out.
please enter in me in your grab-bag drawing if it’s not too late. thanks!
Hi Patty — please enter me in the drawing for samples. Was intrigued by your review of PdN’s Maharadjah – lavender, patchouli, cinnamon and clove – Oh MY!!!!!! I need to get this one under my nose and SOON!
I also need to hit the “Send” button on my Perfumed Court order, but I keep adding stuff to it and I’m gonna have to do some thinning out,I am afraid . . . . .there’s just so much that I want!!:((
Love me some non floral Goutal’s also – glad to hear about another scent that prominently features tar notes too.
Count me in the for the drawing – thanks Perfume Posse!
I’ve dropped you a yes on the Guerlain split. And please put my name in the draw; it’s gotta work sometime!
My favorite AGs are the odder ones too and often better on DH.
Like Mararadjah and love Maharanih.Sacrebleu does something bloody awful on me.
Love reading your creative blogging! You do it with style.
Would love to be in your drawing, so please add me to your list.
Thanks.
PS If anyone would like to swap any of their samples, Ive got an extra sample collection of Neil Morris.
Have not explore AG line much, but Eau de Fier sounds edgier than their image would suggest! Count me in for the drawing–thanks.
First post, but long time lurker/reader! Great blog, always brightens up my day. Please enter me in the drawing!
I love your blog and I love grab bags! Please enter me.
Donna
Please enter me in the drawing, Patty, if not too late–a grab bag sounds delish! I must try the PdN line; they get so much love whenever mentioned. Thanks!
Sadly, I have yet to find an Annick Goutal fragrance that works for me. I keep hearing how wonderful they are and when I go to try them I am left underwhelmed. I do need to explore some more of the PdN line.
If it’s not too late, I’d love to get in on that drawing! =)
hmm, PdN sounds very interesting. If not’s too late, I’ll get in on that drawing!
Mmmm…that Maharadjah sounds delicious (adding to list). Also, please enter me in the drawing! Thanks!
Hi! Please enter me for the samples! I have learned so much from reading your articles.
Thank you, Devon
I’m always late to these goshdarn drawings, but here I am! Please enter me if the drawing is still open! Thank you…
PDN must be in the wind, I woke up sometime last week craving florals and Number One in particular — just got a sample from Luckyscent today! I too want to re-explore all of her scents. It was buying 3 scents and a candle in Paris 20 minutes before taking a taxi to the airport to go home that introduced me to MUA and perfume blogs several years ago! And I totally agree about AG — after her exciting debut sometime in the 80’s, with Eau de Ciel and Eau de Charlotte which seemed so interesting and fresh and exciting in the midst of normal Neiman’s choices, they have seemed rather pale in the aftermath of our beloved niche-o-mania. But (thanks Dinazad) Eau de Fier is really exciting, and PDN does florals so much better! Be sure to e me for my Paris lists before you go, and enter me in your sample drawing for more PDN’s — happy end of summer!!!
A chance for The Patty Sample Bag is not to be taken lightly — put me in the draw please!
I too prefer non – floral Goutals. Mandragore is very original. I wouldn`t wear it, but I appreciate its complexity and originality.
I can`t wait for reviews of Quand Vient la Pluie! It`s idea was already executed perfectly in the amazing Apres L`ondee, I am so curious what did they create. It must have been a difficult job – working a praline note into rain scent.
Please do include me in the draw. 🙂
Yeah, I’m really anxious to sniff the Pluie too. If done well, it should be an excellent addition. Done not so well…. I don’t want to think about it!
Oh gosh, me too, very exciting!
I love the idea of a grab bag with Montales and Andy Tauer samples… dying to try these.
will put you in, Linda!
I’ve tried a few of the PDNs- maybe two actually- Sacrebleu: I
haven’t made up my mind about but Maharadjah sounds like
something I would adore- must try that one..
and please do include me in the draw!
Maharadjah is all heated up spice, cinnamon and cloves, but then it dries down to a very warm, comforting scent.
Sign me up for your drawing. A grab bag. Wow.
Will do, and I love your screen name!
Please enter me in the drawing as well.
Thanks for a great site!
Will do, Steve, and thank you!
Oooh, thank you so much, I am veeerrry excited to be a winner!!
🙂 And, I lurve the PdN line, I’m trying to sample them all. The ones I’ve tried that work on me – some really don’t – morph all over the place as the day progresses, and I like that a lot.
Congrats, I’m so glad you won!
Patty,
I’m glad that PdN line is getting some ink. I’ve loved all of hers that I have tried: Sacrebleu, Jour de Fete, Vanille Tonka–but I seem to be the lone supporter of my favorite: Number One.
Soft florals over the PdN base (kinda like the Guerlinade base?)
Anyway, since you love white florals, I’m anxious to see your take on it if it is in your future lineup.
CindyN
OOps, please add me to the drawing!
Oh, no, I’m with you on the Number one. Soft florals on spice? Trying to remember. I had too many things on, but it shocked me with how beautiful and different it was. I’ll get around to reviewing it next week.
😮 OMG ……a whole dern BAG of stuff to snort….count me in…..In my dreams,I would order from Luckyscent daily;and my brain won’t even go to Paris (slobber,drool)….thanks!
You’re so funny! I put you in!
I don’t even need to try a perfume again to be humbled. Whenever I “hate” a perfume, it tends resurface in my mind a month later, until it’s all I crave and want. Please enter me in the drawing, thanks!
Oh, yeah, I’ve had one of those moments, too, more than a dozen to 100 times. 🙂
:)Enter me in the drawing too! I’ll be in Paris for a few days in the middle of October on my way home from Italy. A wonderful time of year there!! I’m planning on a spare suit case, bubble wrap and electrical tape!! LOL! I’m going to have to feed my husband “patience” pills!
Hey, we’ll be there around the same time. Wouldn’t it be funny if we ran into each other at Guerlain or Serge? I would laugh myself silly. 🙂
Fier sounds really interesting – sometimes I love that tar thing, sometimes I don’t. DH just tried Lonestar Memories for the first time and instead of Texas plains and smoke, it smelled exactly like a ferry dock: gasoline, creosote and maybe salt. But then, we live in the northwest.
Would love to see that grab-bag! Please put me in the drawing!
You are in the drawing! Tar/smoke/dark tead used to be trickier for me, but it’s not pretty much turning to universal love, for which I’m grateful!!!
Yeah, baby! Just emailed you on the Guerlain split. Hey, I love that praline bit in the Iris Ganache, so this one sounds great to me, too.
PdN…Did you try the Maharinih? Did I send some of that to you, I don’t remember? Hooh-boy…I’m getting senile! 8-| Anyway, we walked by her boutique in the 6th, but it was closed. 🙁 I spied a new fragrance called Secrete Jardin or something like that. Any info you can get on that one when you visit in October is much appreciated. Merci beaucoup, madame!
I still like my AGs on the feminine side, P. But, maple syrup…yuck! Tar…well, maybe…I like those notes in Eau de Fier. Osmanthus! Clove! Tea! Bitter orange! Salt flower (I love a good salty touch in fragrance). Oh my, they all sound right up my alley. But birch? Hmmm…now you’ve got me thinking…
Hugs and love!
Love the Maharanih, too, but the Maharadjah fits me better.
So is the Secrete Jardin at the PdN? Or somewhere else? Details. woman! 🙂
Pls throw my name in the hat for the drawing (she said somewhat shamefacedly ).
Vanilla Tonka totally turned me off PdN. I suppose I should get some samples & re-visit to give them a fair chance.
Alas, I’ve yet to find a Goutal that I like that is long-lasting. It seems to be either one or the other for me and it’s always the fruity ones that last. …sigh…Any one have any suggestions?
I think Vanille-tonka and Sacrebleu would be the most divisive of the PdNs, and maybe Cocobanana. They have the sweeter notes. Most of the others are quite different and probably more universally approachable, though I know with at least the VT and Sacrebleu, those who love it are huge admirers because it really can work brilliantly.
My first post here!
I’m with you on your view of the AGs: The florals don’t do much for me, but I looooove Sables and thought Duel was fab, too, when I sniffed it in the boutique during Sniffa Paris. Fier doesn’t sound like my cup of tea, though. I’ll save it for you tar lovers. 😉
I keep eyeing samps of PdN Maharadjah and Maharahnih–may have to bite the bullet and finally try them now that I’ve read the comments here.
I’m tempted by the Guerlain split–only Iris Ganache hasn’t worked for me from them. Count me in for a 1/2 oz; “life is short, buy the perfume,” right? :d
I’d love to be in on the sample draw, too.
Thanks for great reading!
Hey, welcome, glad you finally commented!
I am so hoping on the Pluie that it will be some kind of cool cross between apres l’ondee and iris ganache, both of which I adore!
Fier is great stuff, and it is a shame it didn’t sell in the US. Do make sure they don’t discontinue it entirely!
I will tweest as many French arms in person as I can!
Yay! you’ve seen the light! I love and adore and crave Eau de Fier, it’s just so wonderful. To my knowledge it was discontinued last year, but brought back as a limited edition this spring (I bought a bottle, of course). There is hope yet. I agree: Sables, Fier, Duel are wonderful. And Eau de Lavande, have you tried that yet? That’s one superb lavender – the warm and sexy side of lavender!
PdN – that woman is one helluva talent, a worthier successor of her grandpa Guerlain than the entire house of Guerlain tends to be these days IMHO (what on earth possesses them? LEs only available in the Paris duty free? – incidentally, the almondy but not too sweet Lights of Champs-Elysées is quite nice – Hellishly exclusive and indecently expensive re-editions? Grrrrr….). I love Vanille Tonka and Maharadjah and the exquisitly elegant New York! Haven’t managed to get my hands on Balkis or Odalisque yet, but that is a matter of time only….
Oh, and please do include me in the draw!
I know, I know, I’m a little slow. Haven’t tried the lavande, and didn’t they have a muguet too?
Agree on Patricia. Guerlain should hire her back and let her run things for a while, I suspect she would start a new Guerlain era that didn’t rely on pulling classics from the old catalogue to be fresh and new, though I do love that they pull the old stuff back out.
The PdNs are a relatively new discovery for me, but I am enjoying them very much. I think what appeals to me the most about them is that they possess dual personalities. On the surface, they are pleasantly likeable fragrances, but once you wear them for a while and come to know them, a quirkiness begins to surface that give them an entire additional layer of character. Being an outwardly ordinary, yet quirky individual myself :d, I’m coming to love several of these fragrances.
And by all means, pretty please enter me in your drawing. I love the rush I get from holding a handful of unsniffed samples, anticipating the hours of pleasure (and occasional horror lol) to come.
That is the perfect description of the PdNs, and I think why they are overlooked. You have to slow down and take some time with them and not just do initial impressions, which may be that, oh, it’s X, and then you move on.
Patty, please enter me in the draw!!!
Eau de Fier … was that never sold Stateside? I could swear I sniffed it at Aedes ages ago. I sniffed something tarry there, think Goutal; tar got up my nose & I moved on. I *think* I want to like tar but then I try & it’s too much for me, as in Le Labo’s Patchouli. Yeesh, the tar in that nearly choked me. I’m a total tar wuss. My idea of ok am’t of tar is the teeny leetle bit I get from Bois d’Argent.
Pretty sure it was sold for a while here, cuz I know Tom at Bergdorf’s said they used to have it, I believe, it’s one of his favorites, but then they said it was discontinued, and then they said just the Paris boutique would have their leftover stock. I’m glad they didn’t just dump it!
Tar/strong tea is tough to make work, but if it does, it’s magic!
Hi Patty!
Please enter me in your draw – I would love some new things to sniff, esp since I pretty much broke the bank in Paris and am now on a strictly controlled fragrance budget (which means no Guerlain split either, alas).
Art with Flowers did carry the PdN line once upon a time, according to Bill, but I must have missed it when it was there. Oh well.
Absolutely! What did you get? I’m not spending anything, after I get this pluie and something else, between now and mid-October so I can just fill up a couple of extra suitcases with things. 🙂
Hi Patty!
Just received GREAT news so I’ll join the Guerlain split for the 1/2 oz. LOVE your blog!
Judith, make sure to e-mail me by clicking on the contact us! I can’t find your e-mail, so I can’t contact you! But I’ll dig some more.
Hi Patty,
Please enter me in the draw. I have really been wanting to test the perfumes I hear so many raves about. Thank You !!
Absolutely, Shauna!
Hi Patty,
Could you please add my name to the grab bag draw. I’m a recent convert to this blog, and I have to say I check it religiously everyday now.
I’m going to ask the owners of Art with Flowers (a store in Tysons Corner, Virginia that carries boutique fragrances) to start carrying the Nicolai line. The Maharadjah sounds really interesting.
On a completely random note, do you have any suggestions for masculine fragrances w/ notes of chocolate (the bitter kind, nothing sweet).
Oh, yeahhhh! and welcome!
You’re in March’s territory, I think she’s a regular at Art with Flowers.
Chocolate men’s. Have you tried Serge’s Borneo 1834? Heavy patch, but it has just a smidge of chocolate, not sweet, in there. It doesn’t work for everyone, but I adore the little monster.
Count me in on the drawing, please!
The Guerlain sounds tempting, but have to decline.
I need to really get to sniffing the PdN line, too. I only have tried New York, which I really enjoy a lot. There are so many that look like they are just fabulous.
Thanks, Patty!
-MD
The New York is really interesting. Have you tried the Carre d’as? It’s a little similar, but with a really interesting play of notes. Masculine, classic, but with some interesting kinks in it.
Enter me! And that is a lot of parfum,
any parfum!
I know! I’m practically salivating thinking of so much parfum in one spot, it’s crazy!
Please enter me in the drawing!!!! Thank you!!!
Will do, Billy!
OH please enter me in the drawing:-)))) Thanks!!!! You have me really wanting to test the Parfums de Nicolai!
Have a wonderful weekend!
Absolutely, and have a great weekend!
Hi there! Now I reeaaaally want to try Eau de Fier. I was already on board with the osmanthus, but now that you say *highway*, it has become essential. Heh.
Oh, and please put me in for the drawing!
Thanks, have a fabulous weekend.
yeah, highway. yum. 😉
Redhots, you say? Well then, count me in on the drawing. And man, 17oz is one hell of a vat. I can’t risk $90 on something I hate right now…but man, I am curious!
I know. Just contemplating the size of that bottle gives me the quivers. I did wind up with a big urn of Bond Chinatown a while back, and it was 32 ounces, I think? That was scary enough!
Hi, Patty…I have to pay a visit to you all at the PC, and check out some PdeNs…I’ve heard nothing but love, but still haven’t tried any. And, please put me in the drawing. I need fresh blood!
Will do, Sybil.
I wonder why so many people love the PdNs, but they get so little attention? So odd.
Good morning!
I would love to be entered in the draw and I thought of a small idea…how about sample sets from specific companies, that is, if you have the time and energy to sort out scents from one line at a time. Not having access to much of the niche market, it would be a great way to start a fragrant journey with a niche line.:)
Have a great day!
Great idea, Parisa! I do the pick your sample packs, but in some cases it might be better to pull some of the best examples of the line.
I’d love some new samples – please put me in the drawing! thanks!
Will do, Carol!