Montale White Musk & Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline


First, Parfums Raffy is having a 10% off sale.  Use code RAFFY07PP. The sale runs through 10/24/07 and is only valid for internet orders.

Second, my unabated and unrequited crush on Christian Bale continues.  Made “Reign of Fire” watchable.

Montale White Musk, got some of this in the Montale Swedish sale, and I was shocked at how good it is. I did find a bottle of it listed on the Parfums Raffy site, but not seeing it anywhere else.  Does anyone know if they discontinued it?  No listing of notes that I can find, but it is a slightly sweetish, well-behaved musk, closer to Soleil de Capri in feel than to CB’s Musk.  The drydown is a little sweet, a little musky, though the sweet starts drying off and a hint of something oudish comes out the longer it is on.  A very nice musk for those that like their musks to not veer off into raunch.

 Olivier Durbano has launched his third perfume, Black Tourmaline.  Notes of Cardamom, coriander, cumin, frankincense, pepper, smoked wood, oud, leather, precious woods, musk, amber, moss, patchouli.  I wanted to love this since I love the other two jewel perfumes he has done, and there’s part of it that I do love, and I certainly don’t hate it — it has a lot to recommend it. There’s plenty of smoky incense, woods and leather here on the open, but the patchouli is just a little more dominant than I’d like, and it takes the whole composition into too pungent a territory. Yeah, I know, this from the girl that adores SMN Nostalgia and Bvlgari Black, but those two have a drydown that gets tamer, and this one just gets fiercer, which will work well for those of you that are into that sort of thing.  The cumin isn’t too overpowering, but it and musk do give you a bit of a sexual tumble.  Sorta like sex in church with that guy on Rome — you know, that one over there with lots of leather on… the, um, choir boy.  Well, it is Hottie Friday, so there’s plenty of cheesecake for everyone!

While the patch and cumin aren’t a deal-breaker for me, those who aren’t big fans of heavy patch or are sensitive to that note when it is a little heavy in a perfume, like you get in Borneo and Prada, you may not find this to your liking, so tread carefully.  Why I love Borneo as mindlessly as I do is a mystery. If you were fans of the less patchy first two perfumes Durbano did, make sure to sample Black Tourmaline first.  Luckyscent has samples and full bottles.

Lastly, before we get to the winners of the two drawings I had, was I a cruel person to send March some of the Donna Karan Chaos pure parfum? Or was I being a true friend?  y/y?

Winner of the sample grabbag, and you will get a little taste of the Bond Andy Warhol Silver Factory thing – it’s my pennance for all the mean things I’ve done this week – 2scents.  Winner of the Posse Scent Club sample pack is – Tessa.  Congrats to both of you!  Just click on Contact Us over there to the left and send me your address, and I’ll get those in the mail.

I do have one other drawing I haven’t forgotten about, the new Roja Dove scent sample pack. I’m waiting because they sent two of the same bottle, and it was missing one, so we’re waiting for the third bottle.

  • Hermann says:

    When naming his perfuem “Blue Amber” Pierre Montale did probably not expect that Blue Amber did exist. Maybe he considered it an oxymoron and therefore a specially attractive name. Hey, but google it and see what you find: And did you know that Blue Amber really has a different smell than regular amber?

  • Lee says:

    I reckon the Durbano will be dried to Atacama desert standards on my skin…

    And you’re a great friend to March, even if the pleasure also brings suffering. Perhaps you’re just sharing your Catholic heritage a little…

  • Louise says:

    Love your white-and-black theme today. No gray about it, or your feeling about the ‘fumes. I haven’t tried the White Musk, mostly because it sounded plain. Dumn, huh? But I do like a nice musk, and enjoy Montale’s Ginger Musk, though it is cavity-creating sweet. Somehow, though, after scoring 3 big bottles at the Montale sale for under 200 bucks, (2 rose ouds, a free Jasmin Full), I think it’ll be awhile before I can pay retail again. Though ordering directly from the Paris shop is much cheaper, and they are very nice indeed.

    I haven’t had great luck with the other Durbanos, but had high hopes for the Black Tourmaline. But this time, our skins did the same dance. It was fine, interesting and all, but way too dry on me. I don’t know if “pungent” is the word exactly, but rough in any case. I love patchouli, wear many patch scents, but found this one unpleasant. And though I rarely deem a scent to be gender-bound, this one seemed like it might work best on a fellow. Not for me.

    It was a mitzvah to give March the perfume, she’ll love it so!

    • Patty says:

      Well, the white musk is fairly plain! It’s just a straightforward very nice scent. 🙂 Some days I just want things to smell good if I’m going to wear them all day. Ginger musk didn’t work for me, nor did the Musk to Musk. Can’t remember why, I don’t have any anymore.

      I have heard that if you go to the Paris shop, they totally load you up. I’m counting on that. 🙂

      Rough is probably a better word than pungent in the drydown. And guys should have much better luck with it, I would think. I need to test on DH. WHere is he?

      • Louise says:

        You will love the Montale Paris shop! There are certainly a few scents (especially the pure perfume) that don’t usually get sent overseas, but the real treat is the service. I had Pierre (not the senior creator Pierre M.-but did see him), and he is a delight. This won’t matter to your skin-but on any scent you wish, they will add extra perfume extract. I now own an Aoud Ambre that is too strong even for me! Have a blast!

  • Patty says:

    You will likely hear lots of stories about how my very poor French landed us on the train to Morocco or something.

    So why aren’t they sending Chene over? I noticed recently they increased the exports to Luckyscent and Beautyhabit, which is great, but it’s so weird not to send Chene over.

    The worst part about the LEs from the nonexport range, they wind up being more expensive than the bells. Crazy.

  • Judith says:

    For me, as for Elle, Tourmaline was simply something I liked–and then moved on from. I WISH it had been scary on me. I have a sample of the Montale White Musk somewhere that I have never been moved to try–will do so now! And of course, you are a wonderful friend to March (speaking as the person who first sent her Chaos EdP):). In your opinion, is the parfum very different (I assume it’s richer, but are there other diffs?)

    • Patty says:

      Huh. :-\ So puzzling and odd. I would have figured it would have worked much better for you.

      I’m thinking the White Musk will be too sweet on you for a musk, but I could be wrong.

      The Chaos parfum is a little different, mostly richer and feels more full. I put them on side by side last night because I knew someone would ask. 🙂 Unfortunately, they were too close together, and my nose was just toasted. It appears to me there is one shrill’ish note that I find in most of the Karan perfumes, like Black CAshmere, Chaos, etc., that the Chaos parfum seems to just obliterate. That one I can wear, while the other DKs of that variety give me a headache after a while, even though I like them.

  • Renee says:

    Mmmm Chritian IS nice. I think he is doing another Batman movie.. I had a crush on him until Ewan caught my eye. And now I feel the urge to try White Musk, but I have to try the White Oud first. I might as well get samples of both (sigh).

    • Patty says:

      Christian gets bonus points because he is such a great family man, at least it appears that way, and he’s just not Hollywood. And he was so deliciously freaky in American Pscyho.

      • Renee says:

        Christian DOES get bonus points from me as he is supposedly a great horseman, and I train horses for a living. There is just something about a man on a horse…..damn!

  • March says:

    That Black Tourmaline sounds scrumpadillyicious. And I really like one of the other Durbanos, but I can never remember which. Is it Amethyst? Hmmmm.

    I can’t decide whether to kiss you or smack you for the Chaos parfum. If it ruins my appreciation for the EDP, my mellow will be seriously harshed.:)>-

    • Patty says:

      Ireally preferred his first two to this. I’m almost guessing this will be a miss for you, but I could be wrong!

      Oh, geez, now I’m responsible for your mellow harshing? 🙂 Well, they’re pretty much the same… kinda. the parfum is just richer and a little deeper, and on me it was missing one shrill note that bothers me in the edp. I’m guessing your edp enjoyment will continue unabated.

  • Marina says:

    Tourmaline sounds wonderful and a little scary at the same time…

    • Patty says:

      Not that scary, it sounds like, for those that it should work for. Really odd. It was a patch monster on me, but the people I would have guessed would love it found it just okay. Huh.

  • Elle says:

    The notes for Black Tourmaline read almost like a dream wish list for me, but…it has ended up in the fatal “like” category. 🙁 Simply didn’t strike me as being original enough. I’ve reached a point where scents have to absolutely knock me off my feet or I start to yawn and move on.
    I haven’t tried that Montale yet, but I’ve come down w/ a bad case of white musk phobia in recent years, so I’m guessing it probably won’t work for me.
    You are a wonderful friend for having sent March a sample of the Chaos pure parfum. To part w/ even a drop? Supreme sacrifice.

    • Patty says:

      See, I would have figured that would work better for you. Thought it would have worked better for me, the note list was pretty great. But there you go! I do think it would smell pretty great on a guy, or could. Just didn’t have any feminine feel at all to it for me.

  • JuliaForsberg says:

    I think you meant Swiss Montale sale, not Swedish? But how I wish we had Montale here in Sweden;)

    I’m currently on a white musk-kick and understand that I must hunt down a few drops of Montale White Musk. How could I overlook white musk for so long? It was Clair de Musc that woke me up from my ignorance and now there’s no going back

    It was kind of you to send March that sample of Chaos. I love to sniff thing just for educational purposes even if I know I’ll never own a FB of it.

    • Patty says:

      Oops, yes, SWiss. 🙂 I knew when I typed that that it didn’t sound right, but nothing else was showing up in my brain.

      White musk is pretty awesome. Just when you don’t want to run around all skanky, you get the musky smell without all the downside of having people turn their nose up at you and move acorss the room!

  • Maria says:

    Patty, I keep thinking about your upcoming trip to Paris. You must be such a fun person in fragrance heaven (as well as everywhere else, of course). Bring back lots of stories.

    I wanted to make an announcement to my fellow lovers of Serge Lutens Chene in the United States: Although it has already made its way to British shores, there are no plans to send Chene on to the U.S. of A. :(( I confirmed this with Aedes. Robert told me the next SL releasse on this side of the pond isn’t scheduled till spring 2008. :((:((

    So, folks, if you want lots of Chene, you’d better order the 15 ml. size from the Perfumed Court before Patty and Diane leave. Of course I’ve already ordered mine! I’m no saint. :”>

    Patty, you’re a good friend to have sent March that pure parfum of Chaos.

  • Gaia says:

    I love Amethyst and have been looking forward to trying Black Tourmaline, but the P word has me worried (Prada, not necessarily patch). I’ll try it, eventually, but for now it looks like I can take my nose elsewhere.

    • Patty says:

      Yup, I would think so. It may turn out differently on you. Once patch gets a foothold on my skin, it just freaks out. But if you hate Prada, I’d go slowly on this one.

  • Trina says:

    Now I *really* need to try Black Tourmaline! Any frag that evokes Titus Pullo is a-ok in my book! Yum! Being a patch and cumin fan helps too :~D

    • Patty says:

      Well, I think it would mos def work then for you. It’s been on overnight, and some guy on basenotes said his was gone in six hours. I wish! It’s just a veritable patch-fest over there by my elbow.

      I’m just ticked at it, because it should have worked better for me. :-w

  • Joan says:

    The notes for Montale White Musk are Violet leaves, ylang ylang-
    white musk – base of bourbon geranium – Don’t know if it was discontinued – I’ll google around and see if I can find out.

    • Patty says:

      That list sounds about right, thank you! IT does have some tenacity. It’s been on overnight and still smells great this morning, in fact better! 😉