Those of you who have read my thoughts on Vero Profumo Onda know I’m a fan of this perfume, perfumer and line. Onda’s rich strange nod to Guerlain’s Djedi, while not being just a copy of that perfume – a new slant on how you get to Mars from Pluto – is brilliant. She currently has two other scents out, Vero Profumo Rubj and Kiki, and they could not be more different in feel than Onda. Often I find perfumers tend to use the same notes or types of notes over and over because their feel for those notes or type of perfume is where they are most skilled. When a perfumer works with completely different notes on a type of perfume and does a beautiful job with each sketch, you can just color me impressed. Vero Kern is definitely that perfumer.
Vero Profumo Rubj is described as a rendezvous in Sheikh Nefzaoui´s “Perfumed garden, Opulent & beguiling.” Notes include Moroccan sweet orange blossom, Egyptian jasmine, and musk. This goes on very, very orangey floral, and just about when you are thinking it’s only another sweet, almost fruity floral perfume, the interesting take on it shows up. I know there are other notes in there, and I hope she chimes in and tells us what they are – I wish I had asked before. As the orange blossom and jasmine start to head off down the path to opulent floralland, it gets snatched to the ground and pummeled with a good dose of earthiness. I know there’s some musk that helps with the earthy feel and grounding, but something(s) else are at play that I can’t name as easily. So while the notes sound like a simple white floral, there is a lot more going on with this that keeps me snuffling around it in the drydown. This turns out to be my least favorite of the three – I do like it very much, just not as well as the other two. An unusual slant on the rich white floral. The drydown on me doesn’t last overmuch after an overnight, I take back the not lasting, it was just sleeping. It stays an elegant white floral for hours and is just lovely. I’m not sure this reacts on my skin like it might on someone else’s midway through. I’ll be interested to hear from others who have tried it.
Vero Profumo Kiki – “an homage to the city of Paris and is meant to please confirmed individualists with French chic.” Kiki’s notes include Lavender, powdery caramel, musk, and exotic fruits. Reading those notes almost gave me hives. Lavender… caramel…?! musk…!?!? fruit???!!!! What fresh hell… And how can a perfumer who created the freakishly beautiful Onda do something that sounds as if Lavender sprigs will be buried in my candied apple? Saying this a fruity perfume is just unso. It is lavender, it is fruit, it is candy, with musk rolling around at the bottom of that odd little sack. Have I mentioned that I don’t really like lavender notes in perfume? Or caramel unless it is part of a Banana Caramel pie (ask for the recipe if you must know)? Or that fruit notes normally don’t excite me? My best description: one of those weird desserts that they roll out to your table that your dining companion insisted on. You are sitting there with your nose turned up at the very idea that you would like this, you like none of these things separately and together is just revolting – they don’t even belong in the same bowl – but as you dig in, you find yourself realizing that lavender and caramel are a lovely contrast and why didn’t someone tell you how perfect they were together? There is a facet to Kiki that smells similar to what you always think of as a candied fruit perfume, so it seems familiar, but the lavender is so expertly woven through that it never seems too sweet, and it distracts the nose, then it just trills off into some new area that is just lovely and fresh and completely charming as the musk adds a sensuous, deep sensuousness to it. In the hands of a skilled perfumer, magic truly happens – the unthinkably perverse turns into cuddly nose porn.
I’m certain as the day is long that Vero Profumo Kiki will absolutely not appeal to everyone, but I think those of you that are like me and rolled your eyes at the notes should give it a chance. This one is in regular rotation on me since I sniffed it. It fills me with happiness to wear it, and I would like all those folks out there making a fruity perfume to just sniff this so they can see what a fresh approach on an old standard should smell like.
These are available at the Vero Profumo website, $145 for 7.5 ml and $230 for 15 ml, pure parfums only. She does have a nice size sample set of all three perfumes $20.
Time for a drawing! Samples of all three of the Vero Profumo perfumes. Just drop a note in comments if you would like your name put in the drawing!