February Posse Scent Club – Part II

Hopefully our little DNS problems have resolved and all of ya’ll are back now, yes?  Best description of the week about a scent comes from my nephew:  “Smells like vanilla ice cream and Harleys.”  If you can guess which scent it is he’s talking about, drop  your guess in comments.  First person to get it right will get…. hmmm, samples all three varieties of Chanel No. 22 I’m reviewing today, a sample of Rousse, Isabela Capeto, and some other grabbag samples I’ve got laying around, like some carded Tom Ford Private Blend samples,  and Neil Morris Vault samples I have laying around and whatever else I feel like throwing in.

 I’ve reviewed Serge Lutens Rousse in the past, though finding that review is proving to be a little trickier than I thought.  Love this fragrance on me – Lee and I are of one mind on this stunner –  though I know lots of people don’t feel the same way… cretins. Notes of mandarin, cinnamon, cloves, spices, floral & aromatic notes, fruit, cinnamon wood, precious woods, amber, musk and vanilla make up the perfume.  The open on me is all cinnamon stick goodness, like one of those Jolly Rancher Fire Stix, then settling into a joyous cavalcade of softer cinnamon, cinnamon bark and woods.  I know this has very mixed reviews, but given others of Serge’s scents, this one seemed like a good addition to his line, preserving the woody notes we find in many of his scents, but adding a much more eye-popping note on the open that gets your attention and keeps it warmed up.   It is probably one of my two favorites of the export line from Serge.

 Chanel No. 22 was introduced in 1922, a year after 5.  Notes are orange blossom, peach, citrus, orchid, rose, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla.  This is my favorite Chanel, hands down, no question, no room for quarrelling.  There is a softness in it that is exquisitely tender, while the aldehydes bubble around it like smitten teenage boys – for some reason I think of a cross between Scarlett and Miss Ellen in Gone With the Wind, feminine in ways that we’ve forgotten how to be feminine, the sorrow and disappointment of life put to one side so you can really live and love with no excuses.  For this scent,  after reading some rough-n-tumble fragrance “discussion” in various places about versions, I decided to compare the pre-Les Exclusifs version with the new Les Exclusifs and the vintage parfum.  Between the pre-LE and the post-LE version, the pre-LE is much richer, it seems fuller, especially on the open. As they dry down, I detect less of a difference, perhaps more incense in the pre-LE, but the minor emphasis on some others notes seems to be a little changed up.  For me, it’s not enough to make purists pay a bazillion bucks for the pre-LE version, but I’m sure 30-40 of you stand ready to tell me how dunderheaded I am not to notice the subtle shift in notes from one to the other and that the incense is…. blah, blah… yes, I’m an idjit sometimes, but my nose thinks both version are gorgeous and within a fly’s wing of being the same.  

The parfum version of 22, however, is worth finding, if you are a big 22 fan.  I believe they don’t make it anymore – of course –  so be prepared to pay top dollar on eBay to get it, which is where I got mine.  The aldehydes seem tamped down in the parfum, and all of the floral notes seem imbued with a surreal light that focuses on each note and lifts it, making it more of a prayer of gratitude than a perfume. If this were readily available, I would spritz it wildly and go dancing naked in the streets, it’s just unfathomable bliss.  Sorry, I try to squelch my raptorous praise for things, and especially for perfumes that are rarer than Virgins at Denver East High School, but… it makes me want to shout “This is freaking gorgeous!!!” from the rooftops.

 22, both of the edt versions, have tremendous sillage, while the parfum sticks close to you.  But you could not go wrong with any one of the three. This is truly the treasure, in my opinion, of the Chanel line, bar none.

92 Comments

  1. All hope is not entirely lost. Chanel 22 parfum is still available at the Paris boutique, or at least it was as of last year when I got mine. Truly, it’s worth every penny to own and I totally agree with you that it’s the tip top treasure of the entire line (with apologies to all their other fabulous fragrances).

    • Really? I only remember Bois des Iles and Cuir de Russie parfum there, as well as 5 and Coco, but I bet it was there and I just didn’t look for it.

      Awesome news!!!

  2. I was thinking Bulgari Black also, but since someone else guessed that — Dzing?

  3. Well, I am one of those cretins re: Rousse. But hopefully my love of Chanel No 22 makes up for it. I have been able to find the perfume strength of No 22 in Canada and I love both – I get more incense and aldehydes from the edt – it almost seems to sparkle on my skin! But the parfum is sooo smooth and yet so floral and fresh at the same time – sigh.

    Managed to smell Dior Homme this evening – yum! Not too much sweetness on my skin – would definitely wear this myself. Love that iris and spice much better on my skin than Iris Gack – oh sorry, Ganache. I lucked out recently and bought some Feminite du Bois (again in Canada) and Capeto smells almost the same on my skin. So I don’t have a burning desire to get something similar.

    (was your nephew referring to SL’s Un Bois Vanille – that sure is how I would describe it!)

    • I gotta know, where did you get your 22 parfum in Canada? If I knew I could secure a steady supply, I’d be a lot freer with the bit I have. 🙂

      • Patty, take a look at BeautifulPerfumes.com. I entered 22 in the search and it comes up. The picture shows Chanel 19 but if you add it to cart, it shows as 22.

      • at enchante perfumes https://eperfumes.ca/home.php
        I phone them and they ship it – I get it sent to an address in Canada but their site says they ship to the USA. They only had the small glass stopper bottles – may be pre-les exclusives stock but still…..

  4. Beautiful descriptions, Patty, so many good lines, such as: “There is a softness in it that is exquisitely tender, while the aldehydes bubble around it like smitten teenage boys.” Chanel 22 is so sophisticated and feminine and lovely. I didn’t appreciate it adequately the first time I tried it on; I’m glad I didn’t quit there. No. 19 is still my absolute favorite Chanel–more Me. But 22 is wonderful. BTW, I get no sillage from 22.

    I like the cinnamon opening of Rousse a lot. After that, it goes a bit weak on me, though it’s still very pleasant. I prefer Ava Luxe Kretek because the spice, especially clove, stays stronger. And I like Mandarine-Mandarin better in that sort of SL category (loosely speaking). Still, Rousse is very nice.

    • She has shut down her site? I am craving some of Kretek based on your description, and TPC doesn’t have it in stock. :((

    • 22 is deceptive. When you first spritz it, it’s like, sure, it’s beautiful. It’s like a work of art that you take for granted because it is so beautifully done. It’s on my short list of 10 perfumes I’d take to Mars if the planet were exploding.

  5. I own both of these and absolutely love them. I have a bottle of 22 EDT, not the Exclusifs Vat, but a 3.4 oz bottle. I dont wear it very often, but when I do, I get tons of sillage and tons of compliments. Im not always in the mood for it, however when the time is right and I do reach for it – I find myself not wanting to wear anything else ever again. Its hard for me to pick a favorite Chanel. I think 22 is the best Aldehyde fragrance and I know Neil Morris agrees as we’ve had this discussion before. Actually, we just had this discussion again a few hours ago on the phone. I really love No. 5, No. 19, and 28 La Pausa, though. I wear the 3 of them very often. No. 22, not so much.

    I always said that Rousse was released at a stupid time of year, last spring. I got a bottle but it wasn’t really until the fall that I finally felt like wearing it. I adore it, I wish it lasted a bit longer, though. It got its work-out over the autumn months and Christmas – It was perfection.

    • i completely agree, what was SL thinking when they released rousse in spring?!
      i´ll never understand that – it didn´t work for me at all back then but i´m planning to re-test as soon as possible (before it´ll be spring again!)

    • How cool that Neil agrees! It’s not an every day one for me, but it is a stunner and elegant without being offputting.

  6. I think I know the perfume you’re talking about, but I don’t want to give it away. I’ll be wearing the patch that keeps me schtum for 24 hours – kinda like nicotine replacement therapy, but this halts blabbermouth tendencies instead of smoking cravings.

    Like Maria, love the teenage boy line – perfection in description!

  7. Sweet merciful heavens…the Posse is back. The last day or so was like running out of valium.:((

    Well, my first impulse in answer to your nephew’s cologne quote was Bvlgari Black, which I just ordered a full bottle of this week. God help me, I need to stop, but when I see a bottle of something for less than $100, it seems like a steal, whether I need it or not. Hmmm…I’ll guess Fahrenheit, maybe. I’ll go with the gasoline note and maybe relate it to motorcycles.

    I was so excited reading your review of Rousse, thinking I had a vial of it in my unsniffed samples bag. Rushed to sniff it and it was Louve. And then was not so excited anymore.

    Glad you guys are in full effect once again. <:-p

    • We’re glad to be back too! I didn’t ever really go, but a lot of other people did! 🙂

      Bvlgari Black is a marvel. And that you can pick it up for a song is perfection!

  8. Well, durn it…I think Nattygold got it…Le Labo 24. Lee, I suppose that “patch” yer wearing was a not-well-veiled hint 😉

    Rousse is a complete flop on me. Ask March-it’s a vague cinnamon on me…and gone. The only SL that my skin eats. Weird damn skin. I do love cinnamon and clove-and am with Maria on how nice Kretek is.

    I am just coming to love the 22, being an aldehyde wimp. But I need to up the concentration-I’ve only tested the EDT-quite lovely, but I think the parfum is called for here. On the hunt, now…:d/

    • maybe rousse just doesn’t work well in the delmarva area? 🙂

      I think the 22 parfum would work well for you. It is richer, less aldehydic. Really, really love this one.

  9. I’m thinking Hyacinths and a Mechanic…to a kid it would smell like ice cream…
    what do I know?
    You have really made me want to try 22 again. The aldehydic nature of Chanels has always put me off, but Bois des Isles has brought me into the fold. Perhaps I can pick up the parfum in Italy this summer…*wink*

    • 22 is so worth the visit. I think if a person likes the idea of 5, but it’s just too blowsy with all the aldehyes, they would love 22.

  10. Took me a while to get to reading your review because I was so mesmerized by that photo. Absolutely gorgeous!
    Have to say I much prefer No. 22 in parfum form. Beautiful stuff. Although, must say that I do get a vague sense when wearing it that it speaks to me in a polite whisper and requests that I limit my normally liberal use of the f word (and others).
    I love Rousse unconditionally. Pure delicious comfort. Also enjoy layering it w/ scents like Padparascha.
    My guesses for the scent your nephew sniffed have all been mentioned, so I shall sit back patiently and wait to find out which the actual one was. 🙂

    • I have a thing about light coming through windows in photography. There’s just something about light reaching the dark places that goes completely to the nature of life.

      Yes, 22 does whisper on one shoulder to behave, but keeps giggling as F-bombs fly. 🙂

  11. I thought Patch 24 too but because I overslept have to go with my runner up guesses: Datura Noir or Lonestar Menories.

    Wow, w/Rousse Louise gets vague cinnamon? Amazing, that chemistry thing. Love Rousse. Also love Elle’s layering idea! Tried C22 and I am not grown-up enough to appreciate this yet. Have great weekends everyone! :)>-

    • 22 is a great layering scent. It was lollygagging around near Rousse, and the combo we pretty intoxicating.

  12. Rousse is just a nice, well-rounded, soft cinnamon on me. No nuances at all. 🙁

    When will next month’s posse scents be announced? I thought they’d be in this post.

  13. I’m guessing either Spriteuese Double Vanille or Le Labo Vanille 44. (????)

    Rousse…..needs more testing. I really wanted to like it after it got a rash of positive reviews last year, but I tried it and was not blown away. Smelled a little like coca cola on me, or maybe more Dr. Pepper? Very fizzy, but not rich at all.

    Chanel 22 is certainly gorgeous. Whenever I smell it, I think of it as the perfect “bridal” scent, a little
    “special-occasion-y” but still beautiful. I like the LE version for it’s lightness, but how is the lasting power? Does it compare to the pre-LE EDT?

    • 22 bridally? Well, yeah, I think so. I know when I put it on, I think I should probably get out of my sweats or peejays for the day. 🙂

      I think the edts last pretty good on the Chanel, but remember that I don’t require all day lasting power. If I get a good 3-4 hours, I’m golden.

  14. I have a circa 1980 bottle of No. 22 Parfum that I received from Mom after she stopped wearing perfume. It was her signature scent for most of my childhood. As a result, I find it tough to wear myself – too many memories.

    I liked Rousse – essentially a cinnamon stick in a bottle on me. But it wasn’t anything that made my credit card levitate.

    • It is so strange how there are so many different takes on Rousse.

      That’s a lovely memory about 22, but I can see how difficult it would be to wear.

  15. Well, Rousse …. hey, how ’bout that 22!!! And thanks for the report on the different versions. 22 (the new one with more incense) is just the bomb. It’s funny how your tastes change, though, five years ago you couldn’t have given me a bottle of that stuff.

    Hey, the DNS thing — can you splain to me in really simple terms, using short, easy to understand words, whut happen? Like, is it a virus? Is it, like, the internet version of having your phone line down? How come some people (e.g., you) could get on when others couldn’t? I know the same thing happened to NST awhile back, and I am just curious. BTW if there are no words short and simple enough for me, you can skip this part. /:)

    • I’m going to confuse you further, March, because I’ve gotten fuzzy on this since my last networking class but:
      DNS is domain name system. What you see as perfumeposse.com is actually a headache inducing string of #s, IP addresses, that servers & switches & hubs can read on the net.
      When someone sends a request to visit a site via a browser a query goes out over the net, thru gazillion servers who have tables showing where various networks exist. Those tables get updated periodically. When the DNS changes, those table send the request to the wrong place, the wrong server, where you site is not being served up from. Until they refresh their tables, usually 48 hrs, your site can’t be found. Some parts of the Internet update before other parts & that’s why some people can find you before others.

      Note to any techies reading this: yes, I know I’ve gotten the letter of the law a bit wonkie but I assure you the spirit is correct. For the most part.

      • And seeing as I can only get here thru anonymouse.org – again!, I’m guessing I’m on a wonky route, or some weird cul-de-sac…

        • You also might want to refresh your browser &/or go into your preferences & totally dump the cached memory. Or, try signing on with a different browser (like Firefox instead of IE) that you weren’t using while the site was actually down. Your browser could be throwing an old page back at you.

          Er, if you’ve done this already & are rolling your eyes at me, nevermind 😉

      • Thanks so much! That …. actually makes sense. I was very happy to hear it was something that could be fixed.

    • I thought the old one had more incense? Well, the two I tried, I can’t tell much difference, but maybe I need an older vintage.

      DNS stuff is a mystery, but D got it about as accurate as you can. Our hosting company was having trouble with the DNS servers they normally used, so they had to change to new ones. Once I reset our DNS servers to the new ones, then the change has to filter through the internet universe, which takes some time to resolve.

  16. Black Cashmere perhaps?
    It doesn’t smell like that to me really…but maybe to a little boy??
    🙂

  17. My saying that I am new will become redundant after you read the rest. Not so much new to the love of perfume but to the full appreciation of what I’m sniffing. In the past if I put it on and thought “oh my God I should have ducked” I would wash it off. Now I wait, sometimes I still wash it off but not always for the same reason. I’ve avoided Chanel since my vintage collection didn’t make it here from london but have a small bottle of Chanel 22. I was thrilled to finally “get to play”. Now, I will wear my ignorance on my sleeve. I smell something sharp (aldehydes, yes?) and the barest whiff of sweetness, that’s it:(( Embarassing but true.

    • Well, how old is your bottle? Trust your nose, what you’re smelling is probably exactly it. It may be some anosmia to some notes or just what it feels like to you!

      • The bottle has definately been around for awhile. As it goes, it really did wear quite lovely, as the morning bled into afternoon. Couldn’t describe it in the beautiful way that you did, but I like it very much.

  18. Patty, Which pre-exclusif version did you try? Up until a year ago, most department stores still carried the 1.7 oz refill sprays and the more modern 3.4 oz all-in-one sprays. I have concluded that the 1.7 oz refill sprays were an older formulation. The packaging give the definitive clue, with only alcohol, parfum and water listed as ingredients. The refillable cannisters have been unavailable for quite some time as well.

    • Okay, I’ll check out the 1.7 refillables. This was the 3.4 all-in-one that I have, which I thought the change didn’t happen until it went pre-exclusifs?

    • Chanel22 is completely correct on this. I wore #22 almost daily for many years, starting in my late teens, and was lucky enough to start hording it almost at once. The 1.7 oz EDT is SO much richer than either the 3.4 oz pre-LE version or the LE EDT, the difference is like a EDP vs an EDT. The 1.7 oz has (on me) more incense, and is a decidedly more sophisticated fragrance, which is ironic, given who I was when I started wearing it. The 3.4 oz pre-LE and LE versions are much more similar to one another to my nose, but both are so different from the 1.7 oz EDT that an old friend I hadn’t seen since starting to wear the 3.4 oz EDT didn’t believe that they were the same fragrance.

  19. The answer is Le Labo Patchouli 24, and my nephew is like 31 years old and has three girls in school. 🙂 He says it is the biggest chick magnet (he’s single now) and whenever he goes out, the women come up and sniff him and tell him he smells goooooood.

    Nattygold is the winner, congrats!

  20. So glad you site is accessible again. The withdrawal symptoms are terrible when you can’t get your daily Posse fix!

    I’m so madly in love with Chanel No. 22 that, after going through two decent-sized decants of it, I finally ordered a bottle from the Chanel boutique in Boston. It’s such an elegant, dry champagne of a scent on me. The aldehydes sparkle, the incense keeps the white florals from being too sweet. It’s perfection.

  21. i need to re-test rousse, it didn´t smell bad on me or anything, but i didn´t feel like wearing cinnamon in spring 8-|

    i WANT a bottle of the pre-LE version of n° 22 :(( i´m so angry that i didn´t purchased it before they re-released it >:p the new version has much less incense (even if others say the opposite!) on me, it was so much better & now it´s gone or costs $$$ on ebay.
    & please, don´t mention the pure perfume – i want that one as well, but it´s discontinued here & everybody says something else about it being available in paris or not. that drives me mad!

    • You should call Paris Chanel, but make sure it is the Rue Cambon shop, they would be the only ones with the parfum, my best guess.

  22. Hi Patty! Great reference to Gone With the Wind, but did you mean Miss Melanie or Scarlett’s sister Sue Ellen? Only caught this cause I watched the video recently. 🙂

    As to the vanilla and Harley notes – no idea! I’m still a newbie and haven’t ventured very far into the land of niche fragrances yet. I’m guessing it’s one of those!

    I wore Chanel no. 22 years ago (as well as No. 5 and Cristalle). As I remember, 22 was fairly soft and unobtrusive, yet provocative. I can’t wear No. 5 any longer. Smells great on others, but on me it’s much too stomach turning. Cristalle is a crisp, clean scent that I’m not really into these days. My current Chanel favs are Coco Mademoiselle and Allure.

    As for Serge Lutens, have never tried any of his scents! I need to get on Perfumed Court and order some samples!!!

    🙂

    • Actually, the reference was to Miss Ellen, Scarlett’s mother, who was all breeding and gentility, but incredibly kind, too.

      I do think 22 is made for people who admire 5, but just can’t wear it, but do agree with you on Coco M and Allure. The older I get, the more I appreciate the Chanel scents. They just ooze charm.

  23. I was gonna say Micallef Note Vanillee because I tried it for the first time last night & it made me swoon. I would have been wrong so it’s probably just fine that I was still sleeping.

    I do need to try Rousse. I originally wrote it off because some of SL’s sweeter concoctions (Chypre Rouge, Daim Blonde) are horrendous on my sweet magnifying skin. But since I’ve recently decided I love cinnamon as a note I’ll give it a go … so long as I can get around to it before the weather warms. I agree w Malena, cinnamon in spring sounds all wrong to me, too.

    • Note Vanillee suprisingly turned into a love of mine. And it goes together great with Lann-ael if you are all into sweet for the day.

      Cinnamon is wrong for spring, totally agree, but perfection in winter!

  24. Am I the only one that finds the drydown of Rousse extremely *buttery*? Boozy cinnamon to start and then the pastry sets in. I’m one of those people who liked this one from the start – and loved MM, and thought Chypre Rouge was okay, so I was caught totally unawares by Louve, which I *hated*.

    • I too get pastry qualities from it – think it made me think of apple pie a little when I first sniffed it, alongside that strange waxy distancing thing that some SLs have.

    • I knew Lee got the pastry. I get it just a smidge, not enough that I even think about it unless I really concentrate. The cinnamon amps up really nicely on my skin and makes everything else sit in the back row.

  25. Yay! Feeling the love for 22. It is freakin’ gorgeous, alright. I have the edt from a couple years ago, and really want a bottle of the parfum, but I just went crazy at Valentine’s day and bought myself a half-ounce of Cuir de Russie parfum, so no more Chanels for me for a whiiiiile. :”>

  26. Hooray, you guys are back! You can scream, “I’m back, baby!” I would scream, “I’m BLACK, baby!” Ha, ha…just a little Friday-lite humor. :d

    Geez, you make me want to try No. 22 again, Patty. I must have been missing something. Guess I am the dunderhead, lol!

    Hugs and love!

      • I love Cristalle, Coco (am wearing it today), Coco Mlle, Bois des Iles, No. 18, and 31 Rue Cambon (wish it was in parfum). Maybe No. 22 has too many aldehydes, or is too powdery for me?? I am not a big powder fan…

        Hugs!

  27. LOVE LOVE LOVE Rousse. It WILL be my next Serge Lutens full bottle. Can’t wait. 🙂

  28. Have just tried and absolutely fallen for no. 22. I’m trying to proceed with caution though and go back for another spraying/sniffing. The incense is just so delicious.

    • A great plan. Nothing is worse than thinking you are in love, purchasing, then repenting through several ounces of perfume because it’s not really love.

  29. I love No. 22, and I’ve only tried the Les Exclusifs version. I wonder if a FB would be too much to ask for as a birthday present…and I wish I could try the parfum. I imagine that I’ll come back extremely broke if I ever get to Paris again.

  30. i’m guessing dzing! or bulgari black or saffran troublant.

    i love no. 22, and was lucky enough to find an old parfum half full in an antiques store in florida, and an edt – the last one! – in a sephora there. i think you’re right – this is the treasure. the incense and the white rose set it apart and make it a little other-worldly. i also love no. 5, but they feel so different to me.

    and i finally got to try rousse – and i adore it. it is yummy all the way through – the dry down has the most delicious vanilla-y smell – i wasn’t expecting that. so far it’s at the top of my list to buy after lent.

    totally off-topic, but also got to try fresh cannabis rose yesterday, and it was very, very good. started jammy, then went bright and sunny, then the patchouli kicked in. it was good all the way through. i detested cannabis santal, so this was a nice surprise. actually, few things have smelled worse on me than cannabis santal…

    • It was Le Labo Patchouli 24. 🙂

      Intersting about the cannabis rose. I never got around to the cannabis, just not a smell I really cared for to begin with, but I was wondering if the combination might not be better.

  31. You had me at “cinnamon.” So there goes Rousse, right on the Must Sniff list. I’ve never met a Chanel I’ve really liked, although I can appreciate their compositions. But if I can get hold of 22 in perfume, I’ll give it a go. Your excellent writing simply demands it!

  32. This will completely reveal my newbie status, but all I got from no. 22 was powder- is that the aldehyde?? It does remind me of my grandmother; I’ll have to ask my grandfather what perfume she wore. With all the love 22 got today, I’ll have to give it another try.

    I love cinnamon, and was really excited to try the Rousse. Unfortunately, I’m with Louise, I get a little cinnamon on the opening, and then…nada. I’ve wore it twice in the last two weeks, and it was the same both times. It was below freezing both days, so I think I will try it again in the early fall and see if some warmth in the air makes it stick around a little longer. Anyone have other cinnamon loves I should try?

    Now I’ve had to add Le Labo 24 in my TPC Wish List (it grows daily). I took advantage of the generous offer on Le Labo Vanille 44 in January and it made me jump up and down in delight (literally!)

    BTW, I got my Posse-mail today! So glad it’s all straightened out. 🙂

    • A nice cinnamon plus wood to try is Parfumerie Generale Une Crime Exotique.

      • I have a large decant; I love it! My DH calls it “the Gingerbread House” perfume. I was first introduced to niche scents and the wonderful world of samples on Luckyscent a few months back. Une Crime Exotique was in the first batch of samples I ordered from them, along with Aomassai (which I also love). I spent most of the fall wearing one or the other. 🙂

    • LOL! Another newbie, such as myself, trying to suss out No.22! Luv that I have company.

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