Parfums de Nicolai – Discontinuations

Heya Perfume Posse Peeps, Portia from Australian Perfume Junkies with sad news of the demise as three Parfums de Nicolai suffer discontinuations. They are being put out to pasture due to sad sales figures and have been reported over the last month on BaseNotes, MakeUp Alley (MUA) and Perfume of Life.

Bois De Jasmin UPDATE: Le Temps d’une Fête will be available on demand. Vanille Tonka will remain in the collection. Sacrebleu Eau de Toilette will be removed from the catalog, but the plush Intense version will remain.

Parfums de Nicolai – Discontinuations

Le Temps d’Une Fete 2007

Le Temps d'une Fete Parfums de Nicolai  Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, opoponax
Heart: Narcissus, jasmine
Base: Oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, woody notes

I have long read about Parfums de Nicolai; Le Temps d’Une Fete on The Muse In Wooden Shoes blog, it is one of her favourites, even in its current form which changed slightly through reformulation not so long ago. When I read that they were discontinuing it I ran and panic blind bought 100ml with a 20% coupon I had from Parfum1. PHEW!!!

Boy, the opening green, green, green is warmed through with resinous, sappy, creamy goodness that gives me a real sense of cutting soft stemmed flowers from the garden, but also the smell of freshly cut hedge after the gardener has left and everything looks so neat and perfect that I have wander around and enjoy it. We currently have the prettiest narcissus flowering in the sun/sitting room and for the first time ever I can tell which bits are aiming to replicate them and which other bits are the naughty, indolic, sensual jasmine which may be also being given an extra push by the opening resin and closing patchouli. This is not a strong scent but it is fragrant and so other from anything else I have, I don’t find much correlation between its often compared CHANEL #19 or Guerlain Chamade, which it is sometimes referenced to. I do like some green in my fragrance and there are so many lovely ones, this is in my new fave Top 3 greens alongside Nikki de Saint Phalle and CHANEL No 19. I am sad that I’ve come to Le Temps d’Une Fete so late but now I have 100ml, life is pretty good.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and The Muse In Wooden Shoes

Vanilla Tonka 1997

Vanille Tonka Parfums de Nicolai  Fragrantica

Fragrantica give these featured accords:
Top: Basil, lemon, mandarin oils
Heart: Carnation, orange blossom absolute, pepper oil, cinnamon oil
Base: Incense, vanilla absolutes, Tonka bean

I am not sure of what I was expecting with Parfums de Nicolai; Vanille Tonka, no, that’s a lie. From it’s name I was expecting Vanilla and Tonka, and while both are represented and shown in lovely soft focus swirling through all the other notes it is not what I got. I am not complaining really but why would you call something Vanille Tonka and then put them mainly in the background? Could this basic misnomer be the cause of Vanille Tonka’s unpopularity?

The herbaceous and citrus opening is unusual and makes me smile every time. So unexpected even when you are expecting it. It smells lush and luxe to me. The heart is spiced white flowers, I love the orange blossom in Vanille Tonka, matched with the citrus opening and the spices it becomes flirty and playful and I am not sure if it’s the orange blossom or the arrival of Tonka but the whole fragrance takes a left at sweet, fleshy, human and breathy street. All of a sudden all flirtiness is gone and we are into sensual pleasures. Curled up with a lover on a flokati rug in front of a smokeless fire and eating soft caramels, it’s early evening after a day of go go go and finally you can just relax. Vanille Tonka is as comfortable as MdO’s Vanille, as wearable, welcoming, sensual and interesting but around half the price. I am left with a wash of sweeter smelling me after 4 hours, it is soft but noticeably better than my regular scent.

Further reading: The Non Blonde and A Perfume Blog

Sacrebleu 1993

Sacrebleu Parfums de Nicolai  Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, fruits, red berries
Heart: Carnation, tuberose, jasmine, cinnamon
Base: Olibanum, woody notes, vanilla, patchouli, sandalwood, peru balsam, tonka bean

So Parfums de Nicolai: Sacrebleu will still be available in its Sacrebleu Intense form. We are losing the original. I have been lucky enough to get one of the last bottles of Sacrebleu from Neroli Budapest, whostill have some.

The opening of citrus and fruit is zingy and fun yet already they are couched in a resinous bed that gives a warm and interesting heft to Sacrebleu, surprisingly I get more pepper in Sacrebleu than I can find in Vanille Tonka. As the opening burns off white flowers come on in both prim and sensual, like accidentally sexy. They are joined by some spicy carnation and cinnamon but I can only really tell they are spicy, not what is what. The woodsy sweetness of the base plays elegantly through the heart and weaves through the flowers and sometime the citrus pops its head back in like a recurring theme.

Memories of wandering through Pacific Island resort gardens with jasmine, frangipani and tiare blooming, the dew wet woodchips warming in the morning sun as you stroll towards the breakfast buffet under the thatch roofed, highly polished wood walkways. Sacrebleu is cozy and intimate, perfect for the cool of Sydney winter but i could also imagine it being beautiful in the heat and really blooming. I get around 4 hours before I lose all ability to smell Sacrebleu on myself.

Further reading: Now Smell This, Perfume Posse and Olfactoria’s Travels

 WHERE CAN YOU FIND THEM?

Neroli Budapest still have Sacrebleu and Vanille Tonka
Parfum1, LuckyScent and FishPond (in Australia) still have Vanilla Tonka and Le Temps d’Une Fete
Surrender To Chance has Sacrebleu (Intense), Vanilla Tonka and Le Temps d’Une Fete from around the $4 mark

I hope you have enjoyed wandering through my fragrant musings, if you liked this then trot on over to Australian Perfume Junkies. we love visitors.

Portia xx

All Photos Stolen Fragrantica

44 Comments

  1. Noooo…. not Sacrebleu! Actually, I’m not 100% if the decant I have is the original or the intense. I was under impression it was the original though. Guess I’ll go try to find it! D:

    • I have tried them both, though not side by side, and they are similar enough in effect that as long as ONE is available, I’m not going to freak out. Still, sad news!

  2. Oh, no! Le Temps is so pretty and Vanille Tonka…. well, it’s the closest thing to a holy grail vanilla that I have. And I’m almost out – better get on that, I guess 🙁

    • Hey there Rosarita,
      Vanille Tonka is great! I am sad that they weren’t being purchased enough to keep too.
      Portia xx

  3. yikes, is there any other passion/hobby that inspires such dismay? Just ordered a 30 ml Le Temps d’une Fete backup…hard to believe it’s not a top seller. Portia, with your large bottle purchase, we know where to turn when we require little decants…just kidding, hehe.

    • He He he! You are not the first to habe that thought Caroline. We perfumistas are a funny bunch, aren’t we.
      Portia xx

  4. Discontinuations are so sad…sometimes I feel as if I’ve lost a friend. Thanks for sharing the news.

    • Yep, it can be like that because we wear these babies right on our skin, they are part of us Tiara,
      Portia xx

  5. I hate rumors of reformulation and or discontinuation. I flew into a panic when I read that there was the possibility of no. 5 being reformulated beyond recognition and stocked up. Then when I was thinking of getting Nuda I found out it was going to be discontinued, I am so happy that I did get a bottle unsniffed. But still it is always the bottom line that is going to count.

    • We are so similar Eldarwen22,
      If you knew how much vintage I’ve bought in the last few years, just in case!! You would be horrified. I also bought a bottle of Nuda when I found out.
      Portia xx

  6. *)(T G^&#QHIO (*)#Q&$*() H!!!!!!

    CRAP. Both of my favorite de Nicolais (Le Temps AND Vanille Tonka). FINE, then I’m going to go buy every bottle of LTdF I can fiiiiiiiind. I was wondering… they’d disappeared from the regular website about a month ago, but now it’s official, hmm?

    • #%*§ ss @$&*!!!
      I live in perfume Mordor, and I’m having a hard time writing a comment Portia won’t find offensive.

      • Perfume Mordor!! HILARIOUS!! I would not be offended. I think I used some words not safe for work too.
        Portia xx

    • I thought of you immediately! Vanille Tonka too! So cruel.

    • I knew you’d be cut up Mals86. So sorry for your loss. There are bottles left, you will find them.
      Portia xx

  7. already had threePdNs in my cart for heavens sake, the small ones , thought to use my coupon at parfum1, even that delivery to swedn is ridiculously expensive.. was waiting for my salary to drop in first.Which it hasnt. So now I borrowed money and bought 2 big bottles (last Vanille tonka at Neroli btw.). Hate how discontinuation just takes the better of my judgement. Well at least Ill be stashed up for quite a while..
    Will be pondering if I should have bought the Ltduf instead for life then , Should have found out just how expensive this hobby was before falling down the rabbit hole lol

  8. That is sad… I had not heard these were being discontinued. It seems at least here on the perfume blogs all three of these get a lot of love. Sacrebleu was one of the first niche fragrances I sampled several years ago when I started reading because I saw so many references to it. Too bad that doesn’t translate to wider sales, though.

    • I think one of the problems is how many perfumes we all have, you only have to buy things once or twice. In Mum’s day you’d have maybe 6 perfumes in your life and keep buying bottles of them as they emptied. Then there were the matching soap, moisturisers, bath oils and powder to layer it all. The world is very different now, don’t you think.
      Portia xx

  9. OH no! This is such a gorgeous perfume and my mother’s favorite. I called her as soon as I read your post asking her if I should buy back up bottles [She has a pre-reform bottle and one after Mals reported it as being reformulated). She said, ” The latest version is too watered down. Don’t buy any”. .lol..But I am still sad for me- something this beautiful should exist.

    And I’ve always been curious about Vanille Tonka. Maybe now is the time to bite the bullet.
    *off to search my inbox for parfum1 coupons*

      • Really, the three were on the top of my list. I wouldn’t even know which to buy first. And I still want to use the f word!

        • HA HA HA HA!! Why don’t you buy yourself 3 x 5ml decants from Surrender To Chance.
          You’ll have them and they will be loads less money.
          Portia xx

          • I’ve got decants. I live on decants, I think decants are the best, most democratic little things. But I really wanted FB of these three, and since they are not expensive, I had good hopes on the 30 mls. But I won’t be rushing. If Parfums de Nicolai wants to be the next 4711, they are free. But count me out. I’ll be chez uncle Serge.
            (Still furious. :-P)

  10. Nooooo, Portia — say it isn’t so!! Actually these are not among my fave PdNs, but several pals love them and I just hate this for them.

  11. Dearest Portia (and hosts)
    How very sad. At least two of these are genuinely lovely and I’ve not tried, perhaps never will, the third.
    I do hope the line as a whole is doing a little better.
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

  12. I…am….so…depressed. PDN is one of my favorite lines. I wanted to go to Paris just so I could go to her boutique. I do have to say my Sacrebleu seemed to turn quickly, as did my Kiss Me Tender. While I go thru Kiss Me Tender pretty quickly, the Sacrebleu didn’t quite make it, and it definately smells reformulated but still wearable. My Vanilla Tonka seems to hold up pretty well. It makes you wonder whether the choice between putting out a bad reformulation or discontinuing a perfume is really a choice. I look at old favorites like Annick Goutal, and I think most of the line has been butchered and is unwearable. I love the new Eau Soleil. Wow, there isn’t anything like Sacrebleu or Vanilla Tonka!

    • Hey ImAPirate007,
      How sad that you’ve had some turns. I smelled a VERY bad Je Riviens today and couldn’t believe how nasty it had turned.
      Portia xx

  13. Noooooo…
    I just tried and fell in love with LTd’UF yesterday. The world is too cruel. Oh well, off to look for a parfum1 coupon… But it’s so beautiful! What are they thinking?!

    • Hey Connie, Sadly perfumes are business. thewy have to sell their wares to keep them in production. It is a crying shame though.
      Portia x

  14. Gah! Thanks for the news about LTd’UF, Portia. Just redeemed my Parfum1 coupon to get it as well. Never thought we’d have to say goodbye to that one!! xo

  15. Wow, Le Temps d’une Fete and Sacrebleu. They engendered two of the loveliest review in Perfumes the A-Z Guide. It’s the end of an era. Mwaaaahh!!!

  16. I emailed PdN this morning; hope to get a reply. I’m not panicking though. Some of the discussion on those threads suggests that some of the retail stores my be d/c some of the fragrances, but that does not mean that they will be pulled altogether. And SAs are notoriously poorly informed; we all know that. All three of those perfumes there on the new website, loud and clear. If they were to be d/c, wouldn’t the recent redesign of the website be the time to do it?

    I’d be amazed if Le Temps and Sacrebleu were d/c (no opinion on VT; don’t know it well). They are both classics of the line. Even if Le Temps is too green to suit current tastes, Patricia de Nicolai is not fully about the whims of fashion. Of course even she has to make perfumes that sell, her base market is surely people like us – people who know that true style and quality never date.

    Apparently Number One is the most expensive to make because of its expensive materials. It too bares little relationship to current trends.

    • My fingers are crossed annemariec, though there have been many, many fragrances discontinued or reformulated out of existence before. The current IFRA regs could mean that she didn’t want to sell a product that doesn’t comply or a thousand other reasons. Let’s hope.
      Either way I am still very glad I have made the effort to own them. They are fabulous.
      Portia xx

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