Hey Perfume Posse, Hoping all is well in your world. Recently a Dawn Spencer Hurwitz package arrived and inside were some samples of her newest works. A couple of them are already closed. That’s small batch American manufacture right there for you. In all selfish greed I kept those closed ones all for myself but there are a couple of breathtaking ones that you can buy, I thought of giving you guys a heads up because you should have a chance to grab some too.
NEW! DSH Perfumes 2019
Last year in London Dawn was there for the A&O Awards. We finally got to meet. She is as lovely, friendly, sweet and gorgeous as she comes across online and in print. There is something really warm and grounded about her. I know if you met Dawn that you’d fall under her spell too. That disposition seems to have made its way into her fragrances. They are finely crafted and interesting but I think it’s the love that goes into making them that makes the difference, you can feel it.
Vers la Voute Etoilée by DSH Perfumes 2019
Top: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Pimento, Tunisian neroli
Heart: Black petunia, Matthiola bicornis, Star jasmine, Stargazer lily, Ylang-ylang absolute, Rosa centifolia absolute, Cinnamon, Clove, French beeswax, Jasminum grandiflorum, Narcissus absolute
Base: Australian sandalwood, Civet, East Indian patchouli, Green oakmoss, Musk, Myrrh
Straight on the skin it’s beeswax, chilli, some animals and a herbaceous bouquet of flowers. Dawn has been experimenting a lot lately with the curious dichotomy of flowers, their prim beauty and animal sensuality. I think Google doesn’t convey the full nuance of meaning for the title of this fragrance, To the Starry Vault. Vers la Voute Etoilée is a perfectly french fragrance with definite nods to the vintage world yet utterly modern in feeling. In music you’d call the way this smells contrapuntal, the green, high descant of the flowers faced off sharply against the deep, driving, sonorous, fleshiness of the civet, musk and patchouli. Not a loud, bombastic perfume but persistent and alluring.
Gardénia Vitreux by DSH Perfumes 2019
Top: Green pineapple, Leaf green, Aldehydes, Bergamot, Citric notes, Ozone
Heart: Green woods, Gardenia, Jasminum grandiflorum, Iris concrete
Base: Ambergris, Ambrette seed, Australian sandalwood, Hinoki cypress, Leather, Musk, Sandalwood
PINEAPPLE! with a springlike greenery bursting forth from its sweet embrace. Sunshine, long lunches, beachside hotels and relaxation. Funny, I was expecting some thing with gardenia in the name to be quite feral but here Dawn surprises again. This is gardenia smelled through a luxury hotel waterfall in the lobby. Uplifting, clean, spacious and grand. I can easily imagine this being the fragrance of the elite. I don’t know if you ever read Ayn Rand’s 1943 novel The Fountainhead but if there was a scent of Howard Roark’s modernist architecture it would be Gardénia Vitreux. Even though dry down is woods and musk focussed it still manages to be a clear, fresh, windswept depth. If the L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme line really luxed up their product this would be the pinnacle of their attainment.
Which of these sounds more like your taste?
Portia also writes for Australian Perfume Junkies