Eris Parfums Ma Bete and Night Flower

For forty day and forty nights … No, not really. Just overnight for a deluge, like a serious one where the creek is at its banks and the field is saturated. We’re back to wet and grey, though not terribly cold yet. It’s made me wonder if we’re looking at a yet earlier start to the rainy season (last year was mid-October).

I had my annual flu jab yesterday which made me want to get into bed with a book. Just a bit tired and achy.

And I recently discovered that there’s a US series on television based on Tony Hillerman’s Leaphorn and Chee books, Dark Winds. To my huge frustration, this cannot be accessed in the UK. Has anyone in the US watched this?

I had an acupuncture session this past Friday and I think our relationship has run its course. Not acupuncture – just this practitioner. It seems her imagination regarding my treatment has disappeared and we’re doing the same things – no matter what I say — which aren’t having much of an effect. I’m used to having a serious energy whoosh in a session and that isn’t happening anymore – and hasn’t for the past couple.  I will seek out someone else and see what I can see.

And I recently read about a former New Yorker who moved to London, missed ‘proper’ bagels, and ended up starting a bagel shop with NY-style bagels in an area of London called Primrose Hill. My absolute favourite London bagel place closed during the pandemic (and became a Middle Eastern sweet shop) so I immediately slotted the idea of a visit to this new place during my next London trip (hoping for late October or early November). Will report back.

Onward. I thought twice about posting yet again on more Eris perfumes, as Portia did one, then I did, then Tom did, and last week I found myself writing about two more. But, they are good and I think the house is worth paying attention to. There are two more I need to order but that’s going to wait a month or so. So, after this I’m on to different pastures.

Right. So, Ma Bete and Night Flower.

As soon as I sprayed on Ma Bete my brain went into ‘find that scent’ overdrive. This reminded me of something, which I quickly realised was Amoureuse by Parfums Del Rae, a fragrance I very much admired but couldn’t wear. And I think I gave away my bottle. From 2002, Amoureuse was floral fruity. Notes were cardamom, tangerine, lily, jasmine, tuberose, honey, oakmoss and sandalwood. I remember thinking it was gorgeous but it just didn’t quite work on me.

Ma Bete’s notes are aldehydes, Tunisian neroli, Indian nutmeg, Indian cypriol, Honduran styrax, Indian jasmine sambac, Virginia cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli and synthetic animal accord. This starts out spicy neroli which is just lovely.

Once that spicy-fruity aspect gentles we move into full blown pong territory. There is still a bit of the neroli but we’ve fallen down a jasmine-styrax-nutmeg hole. It’s incredibly heady and there’s a whispery rubbery thing happening (the styrax?) – not enough to be unpleasant but just enough to be weird. The nutmeg is spicy-powdery, adding a bit of astringence to the pong which makes it easier for me.

The drydown is spicy-wood, and then becomes very animal pong. It appears to start to disappear but then the pong gives it more longevity. I am not that enamoured of the pong.

The top and middle are what make this. The drydown is more pedestrian than the other development.

This is not as ‘pretty’ as Amoureuse but for me it’s much more wearable until I get to the drydown. And that rubber note is outstanding, as it punts this into beautiful monster territory (leading to the name making sense).

Night Flower’s notes include Italian bergamot, Russian birch tar, Guatemalan cardamom, suede, Indian tuberose, Laotian Cinnamon, Indonesian patchouli, Venezuelan tonka bean and musk.

This opens on me as a gently citrus birch tar which is soft but really nice. Then, the cardamom actually arrives to give things a touch of sweetness. But this isn’t cloying.

As it develops I get a suede ‘feel’ but it still smells of a gentle birch tar plus spicy tuberose which adds a rubbery aspect.

The drydown is floral-rubber-pong, if that makes any sense.

I really like this, but I like the opening most. I love birch tar as a note and this is an interesting take on that: not your usual heavy duty sense of the aspect. This is a more unusual take on things.

And it’s interesting I get rubber from both. Tuberose having an impact?

So, what to think? I don’t need either of these. I’m still fixated on Delta of Venus.

I don’t recall if any of us have said in the various posts but Antoine Lie is the nose for Eris’ fragrances. I really do like what he’s done here.

So, any of this sound up your alley? Are you feeling put upon by your weather? Is there something you’ve discovered recently that isn’t perfume and has gone on to your ‘hhhhmm’ list?

Pics: Pexels and mine

  • March says:

    I’ve seen the first episode of Season 2 but not willing to buy the rest. They film around Santa Fe as well as nearby pueblos, further out in NM and also in AZ. It was gorgeous to look at, and I like the actors a lot. I really need to try some of this line, they sound interesting even if/when they are not “me.” Hoping to get my flu shot and updated COVID vax in the next month.

    • cinnamon says:

      I think I’ve found some episodes of the first series on YouTube but will have to look more carefully. The books by the daughter, Anne, which continue from Tony’s set, are beautifully descriptive of the landscape where NM and AZ abut each other. My covid booster is set for mid-October. The health service here is starting with the over 65s and I think care home residents first. I do think the Eris fragrances are worth a smell.

  • Dina C. says:

    I loved those Tony Hillerman books, so I’ll keep an eye out for Dark Winds. His stuff seems like it would be hard to adapt — so much interior monologue stuff. That’s a bummer about the acupuncture treatments that no longer do their thing. I hope you find a better practitioner. As for these two Eris scents, “pong” scares me off. But I enjoyed your descriptive reviews.

    • cinnamon says:

      I watched one of the previews which made the first series look quite good. Have you read the extension books by his daughter? Indeed, it’s the pong dry down (which I don’t get on Delta of Venus) that in the end nixes these for me.

  • Portia says:

    Ma Bette is high up on my list of wants and I’m very sad to have missed the DC sale at an Aussie store Cinnamon. They were going for peanuts but I was just too slow.
    There is an MS here of Night Flower that I have ready for some grand adventure, more when that finally happens.

    Your reviews are good, evocative in so few words, I feel like I’m there with you and we are having a chat as we sniff.
    Portia xx

    • cinnamon says:

      Hmmm, interesting a place DC’d them. I think they are very well done. But, then again, I loved the Gaubin Daudes which were also discontinued. Tx on reviews. I find these very engaging.

  • Tom says:

    I like a lot what they’re doing here. Just not enough yet to buy one. But I have a lot of perfume so it had A) better be a love and 2) better not be TOO pricey for me to purchase.

    The weather here is overcast and cool and it even sort of schvitzed in the AM. I read and drank my tea then did errands.

    I hope the bagels are good. I like bagels but find nothing more tiresome than people from New York who whine about not getting “good” bagels. It’s like me going to NYC and whining about the weather. Flights leave on the hour people.

    And I do know where to find good bagels in LA but I’m not telling because parking is limited. Unless you promise to save me a plain salted or two.

    • cinnamon says:

      Yes, that. I will revisit Delta of Venus but I’m really having trouble committing to things that are quite pricey. I’m hoping for a lottery win so I can buy Perfumer H Smoke.

      Ah, bagels. I am not quite that annoying on NY-style ones but come close. I miss that place in London I mentioned so I will definitely have a go with this new one when I’m next there. I have yet to meet a decent bagel here.

  • Tara C says:

    The only Eris perfume I own is Night Flower. Will seek out a sample of Delta. The rest of the line doesn’t work on me but I’ll try anyway.

  • Maya says:

    I like Tony Hillerman’s books. I will definitely see if I can find Dark Winds. Fingers crossed.
    The rubber note you mention might be a deal breaker for me. I remember trying Amoureuse and nothing else about it except that it was not for me. My Delta of Venus sample is due midweek. Here’s hoping.

    • cinnamon says:

      I like the rubber note — and love tuberose in most things even if I end up deciding I can’t wear (eg, Fracas). Be very interested to hear what you think of DoV.

  • ElizaC says:

    Ma Bete is now on my sample list! I adore Amoureuse and was very sad when Parfum DelRae closed their business. I’ve only seen the first season of Dark Winds but it was good and what an amazing landscape! I’ve always enjoyed Hillerman’s books even though they can be a bit formulaic.

    • cinnamon says:

      The books are formulaic but I really don’t mind. Have you read the extension by his daughter? I like those too. I really wished Amoureuse worked on me but no dice. I will enjoy playing with my sample of Ma Bete.

  • MzChrz says:

    I’ve been reading Hillerman’s books since 1990 when the first one came out. My interest was piqued when I saw that Dark Winds was on Amazon. Just like the books, it wasn’t brilliant or ground breaking, but the casting was excellent, it was interesting and it was good to see Native Americans in the roles. Zahn McClarnon, as Joe Leaphorn, was ideal for that spot . Someone might post the 2 seasons on YouTube, so I’d check there from time to time.

    There’s a “Dark Wind” dvd on Amazon made in 2003 starring Lou Diamond Phillips but that was poorly done and not worth watching or buying. AVOID.

    I think I tried a few of the Eris scents. Only Mx. comes to mind because it’s supposedly “unisex,” thus the name. If I recall, Portia wrote about it. I don’t remember much about it; that’s the impression it made.

    • alityke says:

      I had my flu jab yesterday too. I’m currently curled up in bed with Mr Jarvis & have been ready a rather trashy murder mysteries set in Georgian London by Deryn Lake. Heavyweight reading isn’t for me right now & I am so over being patronised by “chick lit”, but a good murder mystery? I’m in!

      • cinnamon says:

        Patronised by chic lit? How so? I am still feeling the jab, I think. weird and slightly nauseous today.

        • alityke says:

          The presumption in chic lit that men, shopping, shoes & that all women are a bit ditsy in some way. Some how the characters fall a bit flat.
          I know & I read formulaic whodunnits!
          The 4 strain flu jab has left me with a 48+hr headache & yes feeling weirdly spaced out.

    • MzChrz says:

      Here’s Portia’s 2018 Eris Mx. review.

      https://perfumeposse.com/?s=eris+mx.

    • cinnamon says:

      I like the continuity of the Hillermans (father and daughter) and looked at the casting. I’m perplexed by Lou Diamond Phillips. He was great in Stand and Deliver ages ago but I don’t get his casting in the Longmire series, where he seems all wrong for the character of Henry Standing Bear.