The Video Store Effect: Parfums de Nicolai St. Honoré, New York Intense and Musc Monoi

I don’t know if y’all have this problem. When I go into a website or a restaurant or store sometimes I just kind of get overwhelmed at all of the choices and sort of shut down. I call it “The Video Store Effect” since I used to get it at our local purveyor of rental tapes (yes, tapes. I am old), Video West. If I went in without a clear idea of what I wanted (or I had one and someone else checked it out) I would stand there all a dither until I chose something I had seen about 25 times but knew at least I would like. Luckily Video West wasn’t Blockbuster so they had copies of things like “Myra Breckinridge” and “Female Trouble” and “Queen Bee” and I didn’t have to fall back on the latest Steven Segall pugilism and pudge epic.

So this is why I often crib from my Posse cohorts and tack onto their reviews. That’s my story and I am sticking to it.

A couple of weeks ago Portia reviewed St. Honoré and I was intrigued (go back and read his review, I’ll wait..) As I had mentioned, back in the Jurassic period I worked in the pastry department at Dean & Deluca and we on occasion sold these- on occasion because they were not something that did well sitting in a pastry case for a few days. it’s a pastry base that’s ringed with with puffy pâte à choux filled with crème chiboust and dipped in caramelized sugar and sometimes chocolate (like in the photo) and the whole thing is filled with whipped cream piped with a special tip. It’s divine when fresh. a few days after, not so much.

I didn’t think from Portia’s description that this would be my favorite, so you notice that this sample is markedly smaller than the other two. St. Honoré is.. interesting. It does have a certain nutty doughiness to it, along with something that smells like the dust burning off the old gas wall heater I had in my apartment on Maple when I would first use it every winter. Then it becomes milky sweetness with a touch of root-beery sassafras. finally it becomes more orange flower and amber and less pastry case, making it much more conventionally wearable, but no less interesting. since you can get a 30ML bottle for $82 it may be in my future

New York Intense is.. fascinating. At first spritz you’d be forgiven if thinking that it smells like about 5 other things that just say “Men’s Scent”. More specifically, rich, older men’s club sort of men. The kind who wear Savile Row and secretly consider the new Bentley just a VW with an attitude. And manages to make that noblesse oblige seem laudable, not obnoxious. Ingredients are (from Luckyscent) Bergamot, Sicilian lemon, cloves, thyme, cinnamon, black pepper, pimento, oak moss, vetiver, amber- but it’s not the notes, it’s the way they come together and when they come in that both refer to that natty old member of The Brook and his younger version who will make that same suit seem as Avant Garde as something from the front stairs of the Met Gala. 100ML is $223, and yes it also comes in the smaller bottle, which I may force myself to be contented with.

Musc Monoi seems to have been discontinued which is too bad. It a simple, summery bland of tiare and super-bright icy citrus peel that later gets accented by magnolia and hints of coconut and banana (just hints, it’s not a daiquiri) and finally, ocean washed skin musk. Of course of the three this is the one that I like the best, and the one that isn’t available at Luckyscent for $82 for 30ML. Let’s start a petition to fix that.

Have you tried any of these? Any of the rest of the line? (a long list, which for me might cause The Video Store Effect.) Share in the comments. My samples were from Surrender to Chance.

Images: My iPhone, Pexels and Wikimedia Commons

  • Maggiecat says:

    I loved Musc Monoi at first sniff and had a large decant. Oddly, it’s one of those scents that I love, then tire of quickly. Like end of the day quickly. Then love again…then…. Kind of like ferry rich food. Great stuff but not everyday.
    Does that make any sense at all?

    • Tom says:

      Perfect sense. It’s like really good chocolate mousse. It’s delicious, it’s delicious, it’s delicious, until it kind of gives you a tummy ache.

  • March says:

    We still have a video store! Which I don’t patronize cuz I don’t have a VCR … I do remember running those Netflix DVDs to the mailbox. I visited PdN in London years ago and loved it, I’ve always been a bit amused by the contrast between the glorious scents and those bottles that look like they were art-designed and manufactured by a 6th grader. I have several … Odalisque, Fig-Tea, some sort of smoky thing — must dig them out. New York was not “me” but I enjoyed sniffing it.

    • Tom says:

      Our Video Store was a West Hollywood institution. It had a lot of esoteric and art movies that I think were paid for by also having an extensive pron collection, the popularity of which underwrote the cost of the rest of the store. It was also famous for the clientele, including a famous Oscar-winning 70’s Diva actress (famous for her infamous portrayal of an even more famous 1940’s Oscar-winning Diva actress.) She used to pull up to the front of the store in her 70’s Mercedes, honk, and if they weren’t quick enough for her, toss the videos on the sidewalk.

      This was in the 90’s

  • Eldarwen22 says:

    Way back when, I tried Le Temps d’une and did like it but didn’t get a bottle. At the time, I was fixated on no 19. I did bite on a bottle of Number One Intense. The 30ml bottles are a little more reasonably priced for niche but not by much.

  • Portia says:

    YAY for Patricia de Nicolai, she is a bloody gem. We had her hosting a day at Osmotheque when some cool kids of perfume from Oz , Europe and the Americas all met up in Paris for a few days of crazy perfuming. Patricia was so warm and entertaining. We kept derailing the presentation with questions and I think she was so thrilled we knew a lot about her and her history, and her perfumes.
    I’m hard pressed to pick a favourite but Baikal Leather gets a lot of wear.
    Portia xx

  • alityke says:

    Being overwhelmed is how I feel all the time right now.
    I’ve never explored PdN. Probably cos I’m contrary. Turin & Sanchez hated many things I loved. Hence I refused to try some of what they raved about. PdN was one of the casualties

    • cinnamon says:

      Yes, yes, this. Sometimes they could be so flippant and irritating. Every once in a while they would rave about something (TF Scent) and be right.

      • alityke says:

        Have you read Turin’s original Le Guide from the early 90’s? It’s been translated from French to American English & published in both languages.
        It’s interesting. Far less scathing & flippant. In fact he actually states it’s better to say nothing than find something to say about banal perfumes. Obviously the need for publicity & perfume critic stardom overtook this reticence.
        I haven’t quite finished it yet. When I have it’ll be an interesting academic exercise to see where opinions have changed

        • Tom says:

          That’s the one I originally read. He kept adding onto it an becoming more and more scathing. He almost became the Rex Reed of the perfume world for a while there.

        • cinnamon says:

          I did read that one and somehow it ceased to be in my book collection. I got a new one fairly recently and don’t know half of the entries.

          • Tom says:

            I think that was why he stopped doing free updates back in the day. It’s a full time job keeping up with new releases from existing houses, never mind new ones. With 247 new scents..

      • Tom says:

        I kind of stopped reading them. I enjoy them, but it’s not “I don’t like it” it’s more like “it’s evil and must be destroyed”

    • Tom says:

      I think in this case it was kind of timing. So many things come out that it’s easy for things to get lost.

  • Neva says:

    I’ve tried many of Patricia de Nicolai’s perfumes and I always buy them in the 30 ml bottles because of the price. I used to buy them at around 50 EUR a few years ago, now they’re at 82 EUR 🙁
    My favourite used to be the beautifully green Weekend in Normandy, which has undergone a few name changes and reformulations and the last one is the worst so I will not repurchase after I finish the bottle soon. I also have Cuir Cuba Intense and Bois Belize Intense. I really admire the way Patricia de Nicolai perfectly effortlessly blends the ingredients in her perfumes.
    As for the Video Store Effect, I always have an idea what I want to try/buy but if it’s not available I’m suddenly totally lost. I used to buy something else instead but usually got frustrated with my choice so I’ve learned to leave the shop empty handed and come back another time.

  • cinnamon says:

    I totally get you on video store effect. It’s gonna sound silly, but I really get that in our local charity shops in the book sections. I go in with a list of authors I want and come out with nothing if I can’t find author X or Y. There’s just too much to be going on with. That pastry. I used to love stuff like that — and jones the huge pieces of cardboard cake displayed in diner glass cases. I currently have a thing for the Mont Blanc (chestnut cream) though I am sure if I got one I’d be able to manage about an eighth of it and then not want to revisit. Anyway, big digression. Musc Man sounds lovely and I hope you can find a small bottle. I have yet to find a Nicolai to love.

    • AnnieA says:

      Seconding your charity shops, and in fact second hand bookstores make me feel that way too. I trust that the cake you yearn for is not actually cardboard…

    • Tom says:

      Do you know I had a friend who’s mother was a total addict for supermarket sheet cake? She loved the stuff and would order them. For a while she pretended that she was responsible for ordering them for her kids scout troops, classes, etc so she would have them inscribed to throw off people. Because she was a little embarrassed. Eventually the bakery department at her local Piggly Wiggly clued in and would call her if there was an inscribed cake that couldn’t be picked up- like “Little Irving has the mumps and his triple berry birthday cake is going begging. We can give it to you at cost. interested?”

      I loved that.

  • Maya says:

    I tried more of PdN’s earlier perfumes than her later ones. I liked some but they were simply not for me. I love Le Temps d’une Fete and Sacrebleu Intense. When a perfume house has too many fragrances I usually stay away or try 1 or 2 and if they’re not good, I’m done.

    • Tom says:

      If they have (especially if they debut with) a plethora of scents I just kind of get overwhelmed. And yes, I will give up after a few. I could call that the BPAL effect..

  • rosarita says:

    I wear and enjoy PdN New York regular, which is pretty darned intense by itself, so I’m not sure what the difference is. Le Temps d’une Fete is a lovely green floral, sadly discontinued, Vanille Tonka is my favorite non foody vanilla, in the past I have had small bottles of L’Eau Chic, Rose Pivoine and Fig Tea. I love the smaller, more affordable bottles.

  • Dina C. says:

    I own PdN Odalisque which is a LotV layered over amber with excellent projection and longevity. I bought my little 30 ml bottle for a song back in the dark ages. I appreciate it because it’s the rare lily of the Valley scent that doesn’t immediately evaporate and fade away to nothing. When we were in Paris in November, the PdN boutique was one I really wanted to visit, but we ran out of time. Thanks for your reviews, Tom.