Remember last week when I yammered about how cedar was such a disaster on me, and even a little bit tended to ruin a scent? How it´s all acrid armpit? Sure you do. That would be the exact day I smelled Rochas Lui for the first time (thanks, V!), which – when I was eventually able to unglue my nose from my wrist – I discovered is composed of cedar, cedarwood and cedar. (Okay, more like: Calabrian citron, buffalo grass, cedar, vanilla, amber and patchouli. Or: Cedar, neroli, Sycamore Wood, Bison Grass, and Cedarwood, Patchouli and Vanilla). Did it smell like an acrid armpit? Noooooooooooo, it did not. It smelled like a citrus/hay opening with a hint of lavender, followed by incense, woods, grass, patch and … can I digress here? Because I´d seen Casino Royale the night before, and that was the first thing I thought of when I smelled Lui. You see, Daniel Craig isn´t really right as James Bond. There´s something a little louche about him; his neck´s too short and his features are too rough. Stick him in an Armani jacket behind the wheel of an Aston Martin, and he still looks like a thug. Having said that, he´s certainly not hard to look at, particularly when he´s tied to a chair, naked and trembling, while Le Chiffre tortures him in a way not describable on our family blog … where was I? My point is: Lui is the smell of a thug dressed up as a toff, only you don´t care that he´s pretending, in fact you like it – and all you want is to take those silly clothes off. It´s from the men´s department, but ladies can borrow. I definitely want to put my hands on it.
Next, we have the fragrance Maurice Roucel created for NY Fashion Week. Okay, I feel a little silly typing those words – it´s not like Maurice slipped me a bottle at the after-party while we were all drunk on success and Cristal. Everything I know about fashion I read on GFY. Anyway, I have a little sample and I have no idea what´s in it. I love it. It starts off with a weirdly attractive, high-pitched synthetic note – half Final Net, half Pez — drying down into a molten amber with a little animalic note to keep it interesting. I bet it smelled great on all those 6-foot models. I feel taller just sniffing it, but I’m not going to fall in love, because my lucky 8 ball isn’t seeing any more of this in my future.
Also, Violetnoir thoughtfully provided me with (among other lovelies) samples of Coco Mlle and Coco EDP because she wanted me to test her assertion that, layered, they are fabulous. I admit I’m underwhemed by Mlle on its own — clearly aimed at a younger, sweeter demographic, it seems too tame to be related to Coco, which I love and wrote up last week. So I was dubious, but am pleased to report the experiment was a great success. Layered, the two scents morph into a third, not-too-girly scent with Coco’s razor-sharp teeth filed down a little. (I wore Coco without shame in my former life, swimming in the shark tank of avaricious young men, a choice that, in hindsight, seems a bit lacking in judgement.)
Patty generously provided me with samples of the new TDC Garden trio, which are supposed to be in this review — but I’m still fiddling with them. Opinions are all over the place about these. Stay tuned.
The winner of the bottle of Nemo is … hausvonstone! Please email me your address using “Contact Us.”
Finally, Daphne Merkin says “Perhaps that is why perfume-obsessed women often strike me as stalkers, entranced by the obscure object of desire on the other side of the room â€” the sexiest, the strangest…” in the Sunday NY Times magazine supplement, in which she waxes poetic about Le Labo, Antilope and Carnal Flower, among other things. Also, Chandler Burr gives Dzongkha 4 stars and Sel de Vetiver 5 stars, then goes on to describe Montgomery Taylor’s Ambra di Venezia as “not a floral, not an amber, this is a rich sweetness, creamy velvet like a glass of Sicilian passito. I have never offered it to anyone who did not inhale and instantly relax, reassured as if by a caress…” It was designed to capture “an orange sunset in a purple Venetian sky…” Now, that sounds like something worth sniffing.