It is good from time to time to take stock of perfumes that I have trashed with glee in the past that I now love or at least like a lot — excellent tonic for humility, that.
Chief among them this month is Annick Goutal Eau du Fier, with notes of bitter orange, osmanthus, salt flower, clove, tea, and birch, and extra heavy on the birch, and throw in some creosote and a Kansas Highway after it’s been freshly tarred. Smoke, fire and hot tar, how did I ever hate this? In a review many moons ago, I think I referred to it
somewhat a lot pejoratively. I still think it smells like a hot Kansas freshly tarred highway in August, but for me now, that smells pretty great. Sad thing is the distribution on this now amounts to just the Paris Goutal boutique, and I’m not sure how many vats they have sitting in the back or under the counter, but if you’re there, grab one, it sounds like they won’t make anymore, and that’s a darn shame. I intend to stock up when I go in October and to use my newly minted French (Pimsleur French 101, and I suck) to explain to them why they need to start making it again and shipping it to the U.S. It, Duel, Mandragore and Sables are the most interesting of the Goutals, and I far prefer them to the florals they do. This part of the line gives it a great balance and takes it out of just another niche pretty floral perfumer into something much, much more. Perhaps we should all bombard them to make sure they keep the tar and pancake syrup around? Yes, I sure think so too!
Parfums de Nicolai. Most underrated deserving line in existence. Listen, I’ve ignored them too, but after March enjoyed them so much when she was in England and sent me a bottle of the divine Eclipse, I’ve been exploring them slowly and having a blast. Ina at Aromascope admires this line as well. If you’re looking for perfumes that do not follow normal lines, but have lots of quirks and eddies while remaining beautiful and captivating, spend more time with PdN. Maharadjah, notes of lavender, patchouli, sandalwood, cinnamon, clove. Blast of lavender on the open, which quickly dissappears, and then it’s like how red hots make you feel after you pop a bunch in your mouth — getting warmer and then hot and almost unbearable, but it’s the kind of spicy torture you enjoy until it settles down into a warm, enchanting scent. Yeah, yeah, like that. Love this one. Someone please slap me hard when I’m ignoring a line that is this great.
More to come on Nicolai reviews next week, as well as some more biehl reviews. Also, I had a drawing, um… well, quite a while back that I forgot to announce a winner for. It was for a drop of a sample of the Guerlain Pois de Senteur vintage parfum and four samples of the winner’s choice of the Memoire Liquides. And the winner is…. Anne! And because I’m so darn slow with this one, I’ll do a second winner, and that is…. Rosarita! Just hit the Contact Us button over there on the left, let me know which Memoire Liquides you want. You’ll have to check TPC for what’s available, and I don’t have all of them listed, some of them belong to my tpc buddies, so give me more than four choices so I can make sure I can get them to you!
Now, I have an interesting proposition that nobody seems to want to commit to doing yet, so I will. Guerlain is releasing Quand Vient La Pluie this month, and they have a 17-ounce vat of pure parfum for about $2450. The perfumer is Thierry Wasser and Sylvaine Delacourt. Notes of heliotrope, violet, rosemary, sambac jasmine and a skosh of praline (huh? oh, well, I do love Iris Ganache, so I’m trusting them that they made this work). I have no idea what the juice smells like, but since it’s a limited edition, I think it’s probably well worth having some. I can’t ever, ever consume, sell or otherwise dispose of 17 ounces of pure parfum, but this bottle screams for a split. There was one in the works at MUA, but they never quite seemed to come together. I’m willing to get this bottle and bust it up into 1/2 ounce and 1 ounce splits. But you’ll have to do it sniff unseen because there aren’t any samples yet, obviously. It should run about $90 shipped for 1/2 ounce (includes bottle, mailing & paypal fees) and $170 for 1 ounce (includes bottle, mailing and paypal fees). Again, this is the pure parfum. Those are estimates on the prices, but it should be pretty close. If you’re interested, drop a comment or click on the Contact Us Button on the left. Let’s make this happen!
Last thing… I’m awash in samples again, so let’s do a drawing so I can get rid of them. This will be a big grab-bag of tons of samples of things I already have, etc. Profumums, Parfums de Nicolai, Andy Tauer scents, Montales, CBs, and more. Just drop a note in the comments, and I’ll select a winner!