Trumpet tootling

I’m having a busy week. We have very close friends staying with us, it’s seed planting time, and there’s work. So today I’m recycling on the blog. Climate change and all that.

In January, a journalist contacted perfumeposse wanting some copy for an article to be published in the Spring / Summer edition of GQStyle, on scents and masculinity. As butchness personified, I leapt at the chance. And so, apparently little ole me is quoted alongside perfume legends such as James Craven of Les Senteurs. What follows is the copy I sent to the journalist – I’ve yet to see how much made it into the final version.

“1) Do you think it’s scent/ingredients or preconceptions that makes a fragrance masculine?

I think it’s both. First of all, there are ingredients, generally in specific combinations, that work as markers of masculinity, because they have been pretty ubiquitously used that way. Vetiver and tobacco for instance, in Guerlain’s eponymous scent. Or at least they have been in a certain time period. Therefore we come to think of them as masculine. The classic ‘masculine’ scent is the fougere, a somewhat catch all category that generally includes notes like lavender, bergamot, oak moss and coumarin. They generally have a barbershoppy buzz, without too much bright citrus stuff going on. A great recent example is Narciso Rodriguez – archetypal man juice. But, but, but, what is typically male varies historically and geographically. So, sniff Dior’s Eau Sauvage or Hermes’ Equipage, and you’re getting a vision of bourgeois masculinity in the 60/70s; shift to the late 70s and early 80s and Drakkar Noir, Paco Rabanne, Quorum and Azarro seem like stereotypes of the time – all hair and medallions, or shoulder pads and kipper ties. In contrast, the 90s (remember ecru? Sheesh) was washed out minimalist new man – overdoses of calone in Aramis’ New West led to an explosion of aquatic scents, and the unfortunate rise of Hugo Boss as a power player in men’s fragrances with its bland blap. Meanwhile, in other parts of the world, men are wearing jasmine and rose, much as they always have done (and as they did here in the nineteenth century). And, at the same time as all this is going on, there are always perfumes worn by men that are resolutely idiosyncratic and buck the most obvious trends.

So, that’s a pretty roundabout way of saying that there’s a complex web of stuff going on in the construction of scents – there are trends that emerge through the creation or extraction of synthetics (calone, coumarin – and perhaps an iris synthetic in Dior Homme) that become markers of masculinity in certain time periods; there are accords that seem more solidly masculine for longer periods (such as in fougeres), and then there are scents which don’t easily fit in to the trends of the time. Like Dior’s Fahrenheit – creosote and honeysuckle – 1988. You know the real reason why I think so many men’s scents go with the flow and fit with the mainstream trend rather than doing a Fahrenheit? The teams who commission them don’t want to take risks, have tiny budgets for perfume development (most goes on the campaigns) meaning the perfumers can only go for cheap ingredients, choose the safest mods from the perfumers and water down any quirks or edges in those. So we end up sniffing the same thing, altered a little bit, time and again, in the men’s section. But hey, it’s what the consumer wants – they’ve used focus groups and everything!

There is some evidence of change occurring though, but that’s probably question 2.

2) In men’s perfumery, the 80s as you mentioned were characterised powerhouse scents, the nineties all those ozonic/water scents etc, and I’m wondering if you are noticing a new masculinity appearing with today’s men’s fragrances? If so, how would you sum it up and how does it differ from previously?

I think to some extent it’s more of the same. Though the extremes of the aquatic movement are disappearing, it’s still very much there. Acqua di Gio shows no sign of diminishing in popularity. Interestingly though, younger scent wearers seem drawn to sweeter, occasionally more gourmand fragrances, just as younger women are. It’s where the impact of Mugler’s ethyl maltol rich Angel meets the 90s citruses. And it’s the influence of JPG’s Le Male, a scent, that whilst not a favourite of mine, bucked the watery lemon mode of much of the 90s. So Paco Rabanne’s Black XS has a surprisingly fruity sweet accord, yet it’s marked out by the throaty rasp of some masculine aromachemicals – the only things really that indicate masculinity. Likewise with Clinique’s Happy, which could be entirely unisex if it weren’t for the same hint of growl.

More interestingly, there’s a fairly recent exploration of softer scents for men in mainstream releases (I’m not going to go on here about niche scents which are generally not targeted by gender, and have been doing all this stuff for a while longer) – so JPG’s Fleurs de Male and Dior’s Fahrenheit 32 are both milky orange blossom scents, although clearly screaming ‘I’m synthetic’ rather than ‘I’m a natural flower child, gender neutral’. For me, the most exciting is Dior Homme, though I think this might be a one-off rather than a trend (cf. Fahrenheit). It blends a bergamotty opening onto a wonderful synthetic iris and uses gourmand notes with subtlety and flair. Wonderful work by Oliver Polge. Where masculines go will very much depend on how much perfumers voices are heard, rather than those of designers – Hedi Slimane seems to have given a lot more creative freedom to Polge than most designers do. And that’s why we get something that breaks the mill the others continue to run on.

Get back to me on this one if I haven’t answered your question!

3) What are your favourite men’s fragrances? (You can be as personal or objective here as you like!)

Can I give you some favourites by time period?

Favourite early men’s scent – Jicky by Guerlain (1889). Named after Guerlain’s nephew, not an Englishwoman as Guerlain the company would lead you to believe. Go for the parfum de toilette if you can find it. Startlingly contemporary with a gasp-inducing use of animal notes which make this scent hover between the cleanliness of citrus and lavender and the dirtiness of your dark desires…
Chanel pour Monsieur 1955 (perfumerHenri Robert) – suited elegance, bottled.
Eau Sauvage by Dior 1956 (perfumer Edmond Roudnitska)- a wonderful citrus accord balanced against the use of hedione, a synthetic jasmine note. Classically male, yet pretty similar to his women’s Diorissimo.

Favourites from the 70s, 80s, 90s:
Jules by Dior (1980) – thrusting virility done right. It may smell a little dated, but this leathery rich beast is somehow mellow and understated rather than in-your-face. But don’t over-apply!
Fahrenheit (1988) – a unique scent that you’ll always remember once you’ve smelled it. Sublime.
Lolita Lempicka au Masculin 2000 perfumer Annick Menardo A chilly but sweet gourmand scent that moves from aniseed to more familiar woody territory as it dries down.
Terre d’Hermes 2006 perfumer Jean Claude Ellena – cedar, vetiver and grapefruit alongside some strange mineral accord – a contemporary classic. Perfumeposse writer Patty calls it crack in a bottle.
Dior Homme 2005 perfumer Oliver Polge – 21st century elegance. Some men say it smells like the inside of a handbag, but that might be why women love it on men… 😉
Oh, and just one niche – Le Labo Patchouli 24 (available in Liberty) by perfumer Annick Menardo – smells like someones baking a vanilla cake in a car mechanic’s garage whilst a bonfire’s fumes are blowing in through the open window. Awesome stuff.”

Now, share with us your favourite men’s designer scents. Let’s have a range of options up for us all to choose from…

  • Vasily says:

    Well, the only designer frag on my all-time favorites list is Knize Ten … surprised no one else has mentioned it. On my near favorite and “second string” lists are Cartier Declaration, Burberry London (it’d be classic Burberry if it were still available), Mark Birley, and Grey Flannel.

    • Lee says:

      A very elegant list vasily (no surprise there…). I love Knize Ten, though I can’t wear more than one drop of it or it overpowers me. In fact, it wears me…

      • Vasily says:

        I’ve heard others say this of Knize Ten … it’s either not that overwhelming on me given my chemistry, or my old nose is wearing out and I’m walking around in a cloud of leather getting some strange looks. I hope that’s not the case … I’ve taken to ask people I know well if my scent is too much. my friends are being kind, or it’s not as powerful on me as on some others. Of course, these are the same friends who, when I grew out my full beard, told me they’d never liked the way I looked with just a mustache. Gee, thanks… 🙂

  • Anthony says:

    How cool! Congratulations on the interview! My right now favorite MASCULINE fragrances are Fou d’Absinthe and Straight to Heaven… Terre d’Hermes is my all time favorite. 🙂

    • Lee says:

      Nice choices. I like the emphasis on masculine, implying that you’re open to a whole range of smells…;)

  • Arwen says:

    I love Nemo by Cacharel. My husband smells so good when he wears it. When I heard it was discontinued we bought a few bottles. I also love Chanel Egoiste (on me, not him). I tried Terre d’Hermes the other day and I could not stop smelling my arm (simply delicious, and it lasted for a long time). I had a side by side comparison between Un Jardi sur le Nil and Terre. They were similar, but Terre was stronger and brighter.

    • Lee says:

      Nemo is one of those discontinued numbers that I’ve somehow missed smelling. March had a bottle, iirc, but it went into a cedar swampmonster on her, which is just my kind of thing…

  • Louise says:

    Always proud of you, always happy to know you :x:x

  • Congrats on a well deserved piece! Lovely and erudite answers as expected.
    I do think men hesitate more choosing scent according to image: they’re more tied up to stereotypes it seems, if only because they do not follow fads as closely as women (for whom it is expected).

    Favourite men’s scents?
    I will repeat myself:

    Jicky in parfum
    Bandit EDP (the certified formula): would love it on a man
    Declaration Cartier
    Vetiver Tonka
    L’instant pour homme
    Lolita au masculin
    Givenchy Gentleman
    Jules Dior
    Avignon CDG
    Santos Cartier
    Tabarome vintage
    Burberry London for men
    Obsession men’s (still…)
    Jardin sur le Nil for summer
    the new synthetic orange blossoms (Farheinheit 32 and Fleur du Male”: me likey!
    Dior Homme is an elegant new take on masculinity
    Reverie au Jardin (I consider it unisex)

    Off the top of my head….

  • chayaruchama says:

    WHO’S proud of L ?
    WHO ?????

    You always do yourself, and us, proud….
    You lovely literate boyo, you.
    [Now, would you KINDLY wag your hinder for me ?]
    I’m just fit to burst, on your behalf.

  • G Knight says:

    Forgot about my new fav Aqua Di Parma colonia intensa

  • G Knight says:

    Congrats on the GQ spot!!!!! I have always loved Givenchy PI and also the Rochas Man and for Spring I like Escape for men and Hugo these I still find very wearable…even though I am becoming some what of a niche junkie

  • Louise says:

    Still can’t find the GQ Style issue…but will hunt it down :((

    On the fly here…but men’s scent?…very fond of MdO Carnation on Brit wrists 😡

  • Patty says:

    Of course you know I think you are brilliant, and I hope they leave in a LOT of this because it is all good. Can’t wait to read it!!!!

  • Disteza says:

    Well, there’s the men’s fragrances my husband wears, and then there’s the ones that I wear, and since they’re all probably niche I’ll make no distinctions. Technically, mostly everything is unisex, the Caron being the exception. On Him: Yatagan, Tom Ford Moss Breeches, Hermessence Vetiver Tonka and Brin de Reglisse, Mediterraneo by Carthusia (although that whole line smells unbelievably yummy on him), CB In the Library, SL Chypre Rouge. On Her, ahem, me: Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline, Jicky, Profumum Olibanum, AG Duel, Dzing, Amouage Jubilation XXV mens, and Humiecki & Graf Skarb.

  • Billy D says:

    Sorry, forgot to say also that I think Guerlain has reissued Coriolan as L’ame de heros or something like that very recently.

  • GGS says:

    I don’t wear any mainstream men’s fragrances personally, although I successfully steered one of my teenage boys to Obsession for Men, which I like okay 😉 I do like Givenchy Pi too.

    FYI on the young masculine trends in my house (!) all 3 teenagers want to wear a designer fragrance they have heard of. Marketing rules! No niche stuff in one of mom’s decant bottles for them (yet). Thankfully they seem to have left the Axe body spray stage behind…but Hollister Drift is current favorite.

    My husband dislikes all mainstream men’s frag’s (especially anything that includes obvious “synthetic” notes), and is a fan of a discontinued Aveda fragrance called Chakra IV Fulfillment. We have one last bottle in reserve, so I’m introducing him to niche possibilities for when it’s gone! Although this is off your topic, I would appreciate any suggestions from anyone who might be familiar with Chakra IV out there. I never found a list of notes, but I get a powdery soft incense note, w/sandalwood, a little amber. –Gail

  • Dusan says:

    I wish I could write as beautifully as you 🙂 and that the magazine had the sense to publish your copy in its entirety or even offer you a column of your own? You have so many more smart things to say on the topic, and I felt you were trying to put yourself in check in today’s post – am I wrong? Do tell…
    Except for seconding my nancyboy frag of choice, FdM, I might suggest The Dreamer for its quirkiness and Antidote for its modern, floral interpretation of the fougère family. And Héritage…

    • Lee says:

      You sweetheart.

      The post was the way it was due to time constraints… That’s just the way it is (some things will never change).

  • Barbara says:

    Some of my mainstream loves for men: L’eau Bleue D’Issey (Issey Miyake),London (Burberry), Bvlgari Extreme, Hypnose (Lancome), Terre d’Hermes, The Dreamer (Versace), Baldesserini Ambre, and thought it’s technically for women, I *love* Black Cashmere by Donna Karan on a man!

    Congrats on the article – well done!

  • Debbie says:

    “…butchness personified…”? Geez, I thought that was me. At least, my husband gives me that impression when I refuse to put on a dress and makeup. It bothers me alot. Snert.

    Hey, Lee, do you or others know anything about a fragrance or fragrance company called “Macabre Offerings”? I got a sample from someone; it is gorgeous. I spilled some on my robe, and now I am unsure as to when it will ever get washed again. :d Someone on MUA found an old post mentioning it; it was made by someone using “dinezad” as a username. I swear I’ve seen that name before. Any ideas? (I am a perfumista on a hunt….)

    • Lee says:

      I was sort of kidding with the butchness – feel free to claim it for yourself! :d Though I’m no nambypamby type either…

      Never heard of MO – though dinazad is a commenter here. Maybe she’ll tell us the connection.

      I’m intrigued too now.

      • Debbie says:

        Yes, it is a hidden gem or lost treasure. Divalano has been looking too. HOW CAN THIS BE SO….so….gone?

        No, I don’t want to claim butchness for myself. But I don’t want to go for “powder puff” either. I once hired a cop for special duty who made her feelings about those types of cops quite clear, and I have to agree with her. Since I am basically a cop at heart….

      • Debbie says:

        The person who sent it to me sent a MOO-mail (email via MUA). Please don’t ask how they came up with MOO. I don’t know.

        Apparently it’s a perfumer who works in oils, selling in ebay. Goth stuff.

  • sara says:

    I wear several men’s scents–here are my faves in no particular order: The Dreamer by Versace, Dior Homme, The 3rd Man by Caron, Rocabar by Hermes, and Prada Pour Homme. Terrific article!

  • MarkDavid says:

    Listen, the truth is – I didn’t read all of that. Im on vacation with the BF in Gettysburg b/c we’re nerds and its near checkout time. But I remembered it was LEE Wednesday and so I flew like a carrier pigeon directly here.

    Crack in a bottle? C wore Tom Ford Tuscan Leather yesterday and it smelled like Cocaine – a LOT of cocaine. I think that was TF’s intention, or so C claims. And for the record, I dont know what Cocaine smells like, but if anyone can confirm that TL smells like Cocaine from experience, I won’t hold it against them or think negatively about them – Id merely be grateful for the clarification.

    Like Dior Homme, don’t love it. Terre is fabulous.

    I love Versace The Dreamer, always have – always will. Masculine elegance re-defined.

    Guerlain Coriolan though its discontinued. Thats an old favorite of mine.

    Hmm, cant think of anymore – but there are others, Im sure.

    Alright, off to the battlefield again.
    -MD

    • Lee says:

      “The world will little note nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here.” etc. etc. eh?

      I don’t have any Tuscan Leather to hand, or cocaine for that matter, to do a side-by-side.

      Good list btw, my little carrier pigeon of joy. I’m guessing you had a jolly dee vacation…

    • Debbie says:

      Don’t know that I’d wear that TF while going to an airport. :d Could make for some real s**** and giggles. The dogs’ noses are no doubt good enough to make the distinction, but the humans? I wouldn’t bet my day and night on it.

      • Lee says:

        I personally reckon that the coke thing is PR bull or marketing spin, even if there is a smell link. I didn’t pick it up when I sniffed my sample…

        • Debbie says:

          Maybe you have to put on a lot to get the effect. Some fragrances are like that. No doubt you’re right tho.

    • Billy D says:

      I have been hearing wonderful things about The Dreamer, especially that it might smell a lot like my beloved L’homme de coeur. I know iris is a note, but some people pick it up more than others–what do you think?

      PS: Just saw Sunday in the Park with George–really good, not great though. The second act still cannot be helped.

    • Kelly says:

      brings to mind that old joke… “I’m not addicted to cocaine, I just like the way it smells.”

      Now I’m curious, too!

  • Musette says:

    Great comments, Lee! You are so knowledgeable and your prose is elegant and accessible – a wonderful combination.

    My faves are Grey Flannel (lightly applied) – still love it after all these years…
    Guerlain’s Vetiver, Jicky (Jiiiicky)…smells incredible on the right man!

    Wonderful words and learnin’ there, as always! Congratulations!

    • Lee says:

      Thanks. I wish I were elegant in person! Accdessible – I think I’ve got that one for sure!

      :d

      Good choices all that you list, as always…

  • kathleen says:

    I would begin with the lovely, but sadly, discontinued Chanels’s Bois Noir. Creed’s Bois du Portugal, SL Encense Lavande, CDG’s Luxe Patchouli, Amouage Silver. And, in our house, when the Creed Silver Mountain Water comes out, it’s summertime! DH seems to be able to wear all fragrances, they all smell good on him.
    I’m looking forward to testing the Neil Morris florals for men, any suggestions?

  • Divalano says:

    You sound just brilliant, congratulations. And thanks for sharing it here first, lucky us.

    I’ve been on a hunt to find men’s scents that both my bf & I love. It’s not easy, he’s even fussier than I am. I really liked Gucci Pour Homme (the original) but he turned up his nose & scrubbed it off. We both sort of liked Bulgari Black but it’s not true love. Finally two weeks ago I scored a small sample of CdG 2 Man & we’re both swoony for for it. I consider that a victory. I’ve got one more in my pocket for him to try, LesNez Play the Lion; I have full & complete confidence he’ll reject it … I think scoring one hit is what I get … but I want to smell it on him anyway 😉

    • Lee says:

      Oh, let us know about Let Me Play the Lion – that’s something I keep meaning to buy…

      • Divalano says:

        I tried it on me last night & really liked, sort of peppery smokey dry wood. Austere but also calm despite the spice, & comforting. First time is often the rush of the new for me so it takes a 2nd & 3rd trial before I’ll know for sure but … it was awfully good lookin’ on first try. I’ll let you know if it passes muster with Mr Fussypants.

  • Marina says:

    What Elle said in her 1st sentence!!

    I love your list and we have favorites in common. Like Fahrenheit. I’d also add Egoiste to the list.

  • Silvia says:

    I also love Lalique Encre Noire, Parfums MDCI Invasion Barbare, Le Labo Patch, Rose, Vetiver and Bergamot.
    Look forward to reading the full article, hope your contribution doesn’t get too butchered =d>

  • Elle says:

    If they have any sense, they will publish everything you wrote. Brilliant!
    I am still in the early stages of my new found vetiver love, so vetiver scents are dominant in my thoughts right now and the first ones that spring to mind as essential to my continued existence are Givenchy’s Vetyver (the reformulation, since I’ve not tried the original), Mazzolari’s Vetiver and the scent that converted me to vetiver passion, MH Vetiver Bourbon (mainlinable). Am thinking AG’s Vetiver may be essential as well.

    • Lee says:

      I’m sure you’ll end up with the iodine wonder of Goutal’s mineral take on vetiver.

      Thanks for your lovely words.

  • March says:

    Well, I’ll love you forever for my introduction to Jules, which I probably wouldn’t have tried otherwise, it’s not like you run across it.

    I’m quite fond of the Dior and it’s (sorta) cousin Prada Homme. Which isn’t very homme, is it? I like Le Male a lot, but Fleur is a bit much. Ralph Lauren Double Black is IMHO delicious with that coffee/mango thing going on. And I’m really loving Guerlain Vetiver right now, which is such a classic, and with you on Eau Sauvage. I also like me some Grey Flannel because it reminds me of dad.

    PS Wow, the brits ask way more intelligent questions.

    • Lee says:

      I’m totally with you on the RLDB – if only it lasted. I have to repsritz every five minutes to get that top note hit.

      Intelligent questions – maybe it’s just Liz, that journalist. She’s a sharp cookie.

  • HikerChickNH says:

    Lee, you are a gem so it was only a matter of time before GQ came callin’…Ligne St. Barte Homme is amazing on the hubby, as is R au J. Luckily, we can both wear Andy’s perfumes…saves money!
    Have a wonderful day! Heather

  • MattS says:

    Ahhh Lee…you’re so smart and talented. I wish I had your brain.:-b Excellent post.

    Everyone’s already mentioning some of my favorites. Kouros, Grey Flannel, Yatagan, Fahrenheit, Terre d’Hermes, Jicky. Then there’s Declaration, which I love more and more with each passing day. Hmm…Prada Amber PH…we’re not doing niche, right? I’ve always had a bottle of Boucheron PH around; I call it my wedding/funeral/job interview scent. I wear it when I need to feel grown-up. Ummm. A*Men. It, along with Avignon, was my gateway into this strange obsessive world and I still love it. And just yesterday ordered Dior Homme and Habit Rouge. I’ve not been feeling very niche-y the last month or so. Oh, and Eau d’Hermes-does that count? Or is it too transgendered?

    And a final question, completely off-topic but one that you, being quoted in GQ, or other readers could possibly help me with. When would it be appropriate to wear a seersucker sportscoat? Post Easter? Memorial Day? Or does it even matter? I just picked one up at a consignment shop for ten bucks, perfect condition, and I’m kinda jonesing to wear it. Just for fun.8-}

    • Lee says:

      On the seersucker front, I guess summer is supposedly the right time, but I imagine any time is good. Summer’s too hot where you are for jackets, right? I don’t follow fashion ‘rules’ any more than I do perfume ones.

      I love seersucker. You know what’d be perfect? Bois d’Iris or l’homme de coeur. Something sparkling, brisk, irisy…

      With you totally on the Declaration. March’ll come round, you’ll see…:d

  • Maria says:

    Fascinating run-down on masculine perfume history. (Whispering: Though, if you can still correct it, Eau Sauvage is similar to Diorella.)

    Some of my DH’s favorite scents are Caron Yatagan, Cristiano Fissore Cashmere for Men (a sample of which is wending its way to you as of this afternoon), Tauer Lonestar Memories, CdG Avignon, Ava Luxe Fire Wood.

    My husband smells gooooood. As do you. ;))

    • Lee says:

      You’re so right on Diorella M, which is one of the core ansurdities to all scent divisions on lines of sex or gender (I prefer sex – gender’s so much more mutable).

      And you smell beyond wonderful…

  • Flora says:

    Lee, how VERY exciting for you! I will have to make sure I check out the article when it’s published.

    I like some designer masculines, though I still lean toward the classics (Caron’s Yatagan, especially). Let’s see – Fahrenheit, Kouros (I know, I know!), Grey Flannel are what I have liked forever. Among newer releases I like pretty much the entire Bois 1920 line, L’Artisan Dzongkha (I know it’s unisex but it’s seems more “manly” to me), all of Andy Tauer’s masculines, and Montale Greyland. The strictly mainstream “designer” scents for men I have tried lately have been disappointing, to say the least.

    • Debbie says:

      I’d *loves* me some Yatagan. Seriously, it’s on my Amazon wishlist. :”>

    • Lee says:

      Someone let me know it’s out now, though I’ve not got round to looking for it yet…

      Like you, I find recent releases a little tiresome. I keep wanting to review one of em at least, but feel so, well, uninspired…@-)

  • Billy D says:

    I hope the writing with which you so generally supplied me did not contribute too greatly to your tizzy. Thank you again!

    I’m with you on Dior Homme, as I think a lot of people are. It does smell oddly of makeup, but it is just so resolutely cool and modern. If I knew nothing of Iris Silver Mist and L’homme de coeur, it would be my top iris :-)Can I semi-cheat and say that I also adore Cologne Blanche from Dior–I think it qualifies, even though it’s kinda-sorta pseudo-niche.

    As for other designer scents, I LOVE LOVE LOVE Terre d’Hermes as well, but you knew that. It is indeed crack-like, in the most fabulous way possible.

    Everything else I can think of right now is niche–am I a total asshole? >:/

    • Lee says:

      Busy without tizzy, so all’s okay!

      It *is* a pseudo-niche, but seeing as it’s you, why the heck not…

  • tmp00 says:

    As usual, brilliantly put! :d

  • mikeperez23 says:

    Congrats Lee on the GQ spot – good for you!!

    Designer scents, well I agree with you about the Terre de Hermes and will add:

    Narciso Rodriguez for Him, Eau Noire by Dior, Rive Gauche Pour Homme by YSL, Tom Ford Extreme by Tom Ford & Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein