Unfinished business — first off, anyone with comments/issues since our WordPress upgrade last week, please go comment on the “Blog Quirks” post before this one. I wasn’t expecting all the random kind words from everyone, and thanks. We put a lot of effort into this blog, and it’s nice to know it’s appreciated. For people who are now frantically emailing because you can’t comment at all — we’ve checked in various browsers, and I’m hiring someone to look into it. Have you updated your browser recently? Also Firefox seems to work better than IE. Mac users seem to be having more problems. And that annoying Wal-Mart ad is not ours, don’t know what’s up with that. Although they invite you to “roll over for a deeper experience,” and I’m not even going to comment on that except it was my laugh of the day. Maybe they are targeting the right blog.
Okay, the review. I don’t even know where half my samples come from anymore, and thanks to whoever gave me the samples of the two new Bois 1920 scents at LuckyScent. I had no idea what to expect and I was pleasantly surprised.
Bois 1920 Come la Luna – Sicilian mandarin, Sicilian sweet orange, rose wood, pink pepper, coriander, Indonesian patchouli, cedar, amber, incense. The LuckyScent blurb is all about ambery luminosity and comfort with “a seductive thrum,” but the first ten minutes are pretty much all thrum on me. A delightfully sweaty scent that develops into an amber with enough citrus it doesn´t do that nauseating embalmed-fly thing on my skin, which is my general reaction to sweet amber scents like Ambre Narguile. Assuming you rode out the first few minutes in the privacy of your own home, I agree with the Lucky blurb that this would be a work-safe scent that isn´t boring and could carry you into the evening. Also, remember, I am the musk magnifier. I´d put this somewhere between the saucy Courtesan and Party in Manhattan on the skank scale. Lasted all day.
Bois 1920 Vento di Fiori – Sicilian lemon, cardamom, tarragon, jasmine, galbanum, patchouli, amber, oak moss, musk, Siberian birch. Lucky touts this as a “classic chypre” with some green notes and “the hushed feel of an isolated forest.” A sublime, strange scent that has me pondering vintage samples of things like Ma Griffe or Vent Vert. Herbacous in the extreme at the opening, the tarragon and galbanum combine to form an echo of the distinctly medicinal smell of artemisia. As it dries down it becomes somewhat more classic-feeling in composition while never losing its pungent, attractive oddity. I personally struggle with the leather/galbanum combination of some classic scents like Bandit and Cabochard. I wouldn´t describe this as lighter, exactly, but it´s less challenging, at least for me, and less animalic. I think this would be very much enjoyed by classic-style perfumery fans, particularly those who enjoy green notes. I happened upon a small vial of vintage Ma Griffe just last week, and it´s achingly clear to me, several decades after the creation of many of these scents, what has been lost.
Finally, I wanted to mention that Art with Flowers has Floris Malmaison in stock, which stunned me. Bill didn’t seem to think it was that big a deal, it showed up in his last shipment. It shows up periodically online (it’s backordered right now at Luscious, but on another discounter.) I’m thrilled, especially since I thought someone mentioned it’s been discontinued; I can’t find it on their site, anyway. So. Good news for the carnation-loving world. If you are a fan of carnation, you really need to try Malmaison at some point, it’s probably my favorite, with CdG Carnation and Lorenzo Villoresi Garofano close behind (although you can never really have too much carnation.) Now if only Floris would stick some Summer Limes in the next shipment…