Please welcome back our guest poster, Anita/Musette!
Chicago. Perfume. Howling winds and rain. Must be a trend…
I slithered down Michigan Avenue into a couple of my regular haunts to dry off and see what’s new.
Guerlain had me hyperventilating; at Neiman-Marcus there is an absolutely exquisite display of some stunning scents, many part of Les Parisiennes collection, some of which are reissues of scents older than me (and that’s saying something!)
No, Djedi is not one of them. Sorry. Go getcha grave-dirt someplace else, you weirdos.
What is available is showcased in classic elegance, worthy of Guerlain and Neiman-Marcus’s hefty price tags: three tiers of underlit glass, hosting a gorgeous array of those pretty gilded-cage bottles . It’s like a little bit of 68 Champs-E, come to Chicago. If you buy, though, be sure to ditch the bulb atomizer – it will drive you mad.
I didn’t get a chance to sample them all – there’s, like, a gazillion of them and I could barely keep my wits about me: All those gorgeous little caged bottles, NOT holding Acqua Allegoria! Names from another era – Liu, Philtre d’Amour, Sous les Vent, Mayotte (Mahora)….. Missy (Guerlain) and Douglas (N-M) were exceedingly gracious, allowing me to make off with a little bit of a couple of the juices so I could review at my leisure. Since I don’t know what the hell I’m doing I decided to just tell you what they smell like to my untrained, alien nose.
Liu – This is the one created for Rose Kennedy, who was said to love Chanel No 5 but couldn’t wear it. My research came after I sampled it and boy am I glad to know I have not lost my mind! I thought I’d picked up No 5 by mistake! To me, there’s nothing Guerlinade about it though other, way more knowledgeable perfumistas say it is quintessential Guerlain. I got bombs of powder and sparkly aldehyde at first and I was afraid it would be unwearable…..then it settled down to a Meyer lemon zesty gin cocktail thingy – yum. If Chanel is East 80s Liu is the same folks, just at a couture-casual dinner in the Hamptons. Give it a minute to get itself organized on your skin.
Mayotte (Mahora) – Where Liu is tough to ‘get’ at first hit, Mayotte is easy-pease to understand – but don’t let that fool you. This is YSL Paris’s imperious mother-in-law. Mayotte was wearing Louboutins before Christian was born and has stroked the knee of her younger son’s roommate…and his girlfriend. And the sloe-eyed pool-boy. She ate the 80s’ lunch and is still going strong. I think I’m going to wear this one to bed tonight.
Philtre d’Amour – Confusing at first. Obviously Guerlain but I suspect somebody slept with Dior. Shut up! Try it and tell me what you think. Very lemon/green. I am thinking I like it – a lot. …simply gorgeous drydown. You know how I absolutely HATE that Raid accord? Well, Philtre has it – but a really teeny bit and<gulp> it actually boosts the interest here. If you tell anybody I said this I will have to kill you.
Vega – I have sampled it three times and I still don’t know what to make of it. I could try to fake it but I just find it baffling. I am smelling a hint of rubber erasers and while that’s intriguing, somehow that just doesn’t sound right, does it?
There are lots more, including Sous le Vent, which I could kick myself for missing …next time.
By the way, don’t bother going on either the NM or the Guerlain website for any info. I think these scents are in Witness Protection. Really. But the SAs are really nice (the Guerlain ‘expert’ not so much) so don’t hesitate to call there for more info.
Met the lovely Vida for sniffage at the new Barney’s. Fragrances are in the basement, which is really disconcerting at first (you get over it) but they have those Malle hooters – you know, those booths! I adore the Malles, I really do but……..what’s wrong with just spritzing the stuff on your wrist? If you go in the booth, doesn’t it get all over your clothes? What if you hate the scent more than taxes? Then what? Doesn’t it get in your hair and your shoes and all? Do they get a cleaning service in when they want to change the scent? Are you supposed to go in or just stick your head in…..obviously I need to research this further…
Back on Earth… they have a staggering array of Le Labo (complete with a charming lab-coated ‘createur’ (I just made that up – I think they call her a ‘mixer’). TDC – Vida and I fell in love with Sublime Balkiss – it’s definitely decant-worthy, possibly full bottle, with citrus and berries and salt. I don’t recall ever falling for berries before but this one is just lovely. And I think Heeley Selmarine, with its salty goodness (and a touch of not-pink pepper), might be my August-in-Hell scent. March will hiss at me because it’s both aquatic AND melon! Maybe I can bribe her with an apron or something… but I wouldn’t bet on it!
image: Guerlain Les Parisiennes, nachofoto.com