October Candy

Dahlia lipstick

Wow, did you have as much fun as I did with the dress-your-age and related perfume post on Sunday/Monday?  That was some great discussion, eh?

I had another post lined up for today, but after Patty’s excellent, introspective post yesterday I’m just not feeling the snark.  Look for it next week, no doubt I’ll be back to my usual self by then.  In the meantime, here’s a candy post and one fall lipstick item.

Profumum Fumidus – Essence of distilled scotch, vetiver root, birch bark.  I’m stealing the blub from LuckyScent:  “Fumidus means smoky, and smoky it is. The smokiness of aged Laphroaig scotch served neat, It is also earthy – the earthiness of rich, freshly tilled land surrounded by uncut forest. Deep and magnetic and commanding, this blend of rich peat, grassy vetiver and brisk birch conjures up a vast estate and its moody young lord making his way through the fog on an unruly stallion…”  Hehe, don’t you want to fan your loins now?  I kept hearing folks rave about this, and I figured the name means “smoke” or thereabouts, so I got my hands on a sample.   Well … it’s really interesting.  That’s not damn-with-faint-praise, it’s just not me at all.  I have ZERO idea what scotch smells like, although maybe I’ll go down and look in the cabinet, I think the Big Cheese likes a good scotch.  The drydown of this is pure vetiver on me, and … I am just not the queen of vetiver, ya know?  Not even Chanel Sycomore.  And the first bit, with the scotch, is not smoky on me so much as muddy, in the style of the vast majority of Bertrand Duchaufour’s compositions for L’Artisan and Eau d’Italie.  I almost scrubbed it.  I’m sure any number of you would be thrilled with it.

Calé Fragranze d’Autore Mistero –  “With hints of saffron, mint, rhubarb and basmati rice, this is an incredible fragrance.  Created by Silvio Levi and Maurizio Cerizza, Mistero features top notes of rum, rhubarb and mint; middle notes of pimento, elemi, saffron and basmati rice; and base notes of oakwood, agarwood, labdanum and musk.   It is an EDP and is not available in the United States.”   You know I got this for the rice, yes?  Well, and the saffron, and the rest of it.  This one I just can’t decide on.   The top is sharp and a bit bitter and (okay) not my favorite; the saffron has that extra edge to it that reminds me why so many people cut it with rose.  Then we get to part B where I get a lot of the basmati rice (squeee!) on top of the woody base, and I alternate between loving it and feeling it’s a little light, maybe I’m somewhat anosmic to the musk?  I’m pretty sure I am, I would not describe this as a super-light fragrance.  So jury’s out on this one.

Finally, Calé Fragranze d´Autore Preludio d’Oriente “was based on A Thousand and One Nights, the allure of the Maharajah’s gardens and the love story told by the Taj Mahal.   Created by Silvio Levi and Maurizio Cerizza, Preludio d’Oriente features top notes of bergamot, lemon and mandarin; middle notes of artemisia, incense and chamois leather; and base notes of patchouli, sandalwood and agarwood.  It is an eau de parfum, edp.”  Ding ding ding!  And we have a winner!  This is predominantly incense on me, and I can never have too many incenses.  It reminds me a bit of Heeley Cardinal (the incense part) only more so, the Cardinal was never quite what I wanted it to be, crossed with the raspy drydown of Black Cashmere, only less so – BC can kill me on the wrong day, and like Chaos, man, it is persistent.  The leather and artemisia add some interest and keep it from being a basic woody incense.  I kept thinking the citrusy top would leave but it stuck around for a couple hours, not that I’m complaining.  I’m glad I have this to add to my winter lineup.

Finally, in lipstick news (it’s been awhile, hasn’t it) – I don’t know if you remember but I was obsessed with the Dahlia lipstick as part of the Dolce & Gabbana makeup line after I saw the spread in Vogue where they used it (image at top, I’m sorry I can’t find a page with a close-up of the lips — while they’re clothed).  I think you can get D&G only in two places in the US – Saks NYC and … somewhere else (?)  The Dahlia color sold out right away but they got it back in.  I went there a couple months ago to check it out.*  It’s not that dark, purply goth lippie that everyone’s showing this fall, you know what I’m talking about, and I am too pale and too old for that business, I look like Cruella de Vil in those shades.  Dahlia is a lot of effect on me, only less eggplant.   I am now recollecting that there are two Dahlias, and/or possibly two of most colors, depending on whether you get the gloss or the cream formula, or some sort of variation like that…. Yep, browsing Saks online you can get the shine (#80) or the cream (#160), I got the cream.  My guess is on someone with warmer and more olive skin, it would work great but register as more of a wearable pink, and here is a link to the Gaia the non-blonde’s post on Dahlia, I think I’m right (she calls it a red-based rose.)  On me it’s a delicious, slightly transgressive dark-toned non-red that strays as close as I can get to the goth line without looking stupid.  I’d have named it something like Berry Noir.  It’s a cool color and I don’t have anything else like it.  Here’s another Dahlia link with application tips by Pat McGrath, they call it an “intense merlot” which I think is an apt description.

*And now I’m going to tell a story on myself – I was sure I’d bought a different, lighter color, Dahlia having proven to be too dark.  I even blogged about it.  I guess I need reading glasses, I’ve checked carefully and my tube is definitely Dahlia!  I swear the one I tried in Saks was too dark, I’m wondering whether the Dahlia Shine formula actually registers as darker on the lips? (Which makes no sense at all.)  Maybe I’m just a dope and picked up the wrong tube on the display, or it was in the wrong slot, which is perfectly plausible.  Anyone with insights?  In the meantime, Dahlia’s shaping up to be a color that works on warm and cool skin tones, if Gaia and I are both wearing it, although based on her arm swatch it looks like it would be a much more subtle color on her.

Oh, also — here’s a link to French Essence, a great blog on things French, with lots of fetching illustrations, which I wanted when I was trying to contemplate French style.  Thanks to Angela (and Carter) for recommending it.

  • Liza says:

    Thanks for this great post!

    Mistero sounds fabulous – I love eating rice when it’s just cooked and it’s got the lovely steam coming off it, wonder if the basmati in this one would capture that moment?

    The D&G lippies sound glorious too! All this perfume-fan-site surfing is proving BAAAAAD for my lil’ budget. I have been loyal to Chanel Rouge Allure for the past few years but their current colour offerings in Australia are all blah on me (have olive skintone, prone to tanning in summer) so I will definitely check this out, Dahlia sounds like it’d be just the thing for me! 🙂

  • Joe says:

    You know, just last night I was looking through my sample mess for things I might want to throw in with some decants I’m sending out, and I came across Fumidus that someone had thrown in as a freebie (and so on, and so on…). I hadn’t sniffed it, so I put a dab on the back of my hand and pretty much decided I could pay that baby forward… now I love some incense, but I’m not as in love with “smoke,” and that one had too much of an ashtray or smudgepot vibe. I enjoy scotch now and then too, but I found nothing similarly enjoyable in Fumidus. Interesting: yes. Want to wear: no.

    • Joe says:

      And now I’m gonna have to pull it out of the bubble wrap (oh, and do I have a “bubble wrap situation”) to hunt for that vetiver you get in the drydown. I didn’t make it that far last night, to be honest.

  • Tara C says:

    That Profumum Fumidus is potent stuff. 5ml would probably be a lifetime supply… I nearly knocked myself out one day when I put on a couple of spritzes too many. But I love it and it dries down to this wonderfully sweet smoky smell, once you get past the bitter birch tar opening.

    And I am majorly PO’d at the beauty companies (Estee Lauder and Chanel I am looking at you) who come out with special limited edition colors and by the time I get the magazine and get to the store, they tell me “Oh, sorry, already sold out!” Feh.

    • March says:

      Weirdly, I don’t get the birch tar. It’s not that bitter on me, I think I’d like bitter. Just murky. Definitely powerful stuff.

      The LE lipstick thing is annoying. The same thing happened with Catherine and her Chanel… I think they think that ups a brand’s prestige, but it makes me cross.

  • Shelley says:

    As one who does know what scotch smells like, and actually enjoys it for a few months out of every year…I’m girding to fan my loins and try the Profumum. Which could maybe use a girdle, too, but that was two rounds of discussion ago. ;))

    Speaking of which, if you try a white shirt, I’ll try some lipstick. :-$

  • Robin says:

    Sounds like I need to get my hands on that Profumum!

    I really liked that Cale Oriente. The rest of them didn’t work for me. I wanted to love the rice one too. Sort of reminded me of the Lostmarch rice, the name of which escapes me at the moment.

    • March says:

      Lann-Ael? That was pretty sweet on me … the rice one is I think just too bitter.

      I forgot, you are fond of vetiver. Yes, then, I think it’s worth a try… I thought it might be more like Cumming given that list of notes, but it’s not at all.

  • Disteza says:

    Fumidus is great–just not on me. 😡 it on the SO, though. That durned peat note is just too hairy-chested for me. That same note shows up in Dzongkha; I can’t wear it either. Otherwise I’d be all over it in all it’s smoky, vetiver-y goodness.

  • Fiordiligi says:

    Oooh, lippy! You can never have enough lippy. Must try this D&G line. I like the sound of Dahlia, darling!

  • March… do you think I could pull of that Dahlia shade?!?!?

  • Catherine says:

    (Carter: The Dahlia lipliner is fabulous.)

    Well, March, you know that the only reason I didn’t fork over the plastic as Saks (for Dahlia and the liner and this beautiful gloss!) was because of the sales assistant. He just wasn’t fun… when Edward Bess was a whole LOT of fun. But this color definitely captures my imagination still. So does Le Metier de Beaute’s Castello, which they were out of when I finally went back to BG to purchase it. And then there was that Chanel color they sold out of that day we showed up. Do you see a trend? What is it about these great brands running out of their great colors and keeping us on pins and needles…!

    I didn’t get a chance to post on Sunday or Monday, so permit a bit of rambling here. March, you rock Cedre! I keep thinking about it, too. That’s what Sniffa is for, I think, not just to discover the newest fragrance but to be hit over the head by something passed over. I need to get a sample and see if the magic happens at home.

    Then, Carter, your observations and style tips were fabulous! I hope for hearing many more. I’m a very happy “uniform” wearer. Scarves & cardigans keep my need for pattern and color engaged. But I’m certainly entering the age when a bit more gravitas would be in my favor, and the white shirt is something I haven’t explored. That (well, button-ups in a modest range of colors) and a decent pair of jeans (the real bane of shopping) are the goals for fall. Thanks, March, for letting us indulge in fashion-talk. Can’t wait for more.

    And I’d totally love seeing you in those pearls!

    • March says:

      Well, that was such a fun conversation, and it’s even more fun that it continues on the blog. I haven’t explored the white shirt either, but Carter is insisting that I give it a better shot, so I will… I’m so glad we stopped and tried those, I probably would never have tried Cedre on my own, frankly.

      Did you get the Chanel? I guess you didn’t. 🙁 I know, I could personally live with less hype.

      • carter says:

        You could do a very light, nearly-white blue, ya know, but it won’t be the same. Still, I think you’d look great in either.

    • carter says:

      Catherine, love, please shut up :-$.

      Okay, never mind that…does it match the lippie or does it act as a sort of go-between that and your lip color? Or is it magic?

      • carter says:

        Oh, crap, Saks just made it available for pre-order (ships no later than 11/26). I thought that if I had to actually rouse myself to go to the store I’d be safe, but nooooooo 8-|

        I really hate the idea of $30 for a lip liner which won’t be used for anything else, but probably can’t find a decent substitute for in a cheaper brand >:p

        • March says:

          ehehehe this blog does get you in trouble, yes?

          • carter says:

            Wow, March, this stuff is the shizz. I think this is a holy grail lippie for me. I love the texture (matte creme) and the color is spectacular. I was worried that it might be too aging and too maroon for me (I have plummy tones in my eyelids and worse under my eyes) but it is just the most gorgeous and unusual color — not too pink, not too red, not too purple or blue — which somehow just *works*. It is pretty, but at the same time tres cool (the elusive “edge”, hence the holy grail status). Love, love, love it and YOU for posting >:d<

          • March says:

            Oh, I’m so happy! Louise was … not as thrilled as I am, I love the color, it’s a little cool for her. I find it unusual too. So glad you like it! I don’t have the plummy under my eyes but definitely on my lids, what a drag. I just bury it quickly under a suede Bobbi Brown creme shadow which serves as a concealer at the same time.

      • carter says:

        Um, you know I’m kidding, right? :o) And the compliments are sweet music, indeed @};-

  • Silviafunkly says:

    After Olibanum, which I adore, Fumidus is in my opinion one of the most interesting scent of this line. Smoky indeed it is, and great in that respect, but there is something very raw and pungent(and not in a good way) about it and I’d much rather have Patchouli24 instead.
    Never tried the Cale’, will keep an eye out for them.

  • carter says:

    Oh bloody hell >:) I just blew another $30 on lipstick :(( which I need like a hole it the head 8-x. Well, at least they weren’t offering the liner :d