Serge Lutens L’eau

Serge has convinced us that:

  • smelling like a sweaty Mongolian is hot.
  • Moroccan kitchens on a Saturday night?  Well, yeah, yummy!
  • Iris surrounded by metallic dirt, clanging like a gong until the cute little spice note shows up is enchanting.
  • Violets can be on steroids.
  • Honeyed pee is okay, once you get used to it.
  • Cedar, cumin –  musthavemore – cedar, cumin.

At the end of our magical carpet ride through learning to love smelling things we thought should never be allowed in polite public, he produces us with L’eau. French for water.  Intended to be the uber-clean scent, the scent that cleanses the pallet from  all of what? The above?  Okay.  Clean skin and fresh laundry. Isn’t this the province of the commercial mass-market fragrances and laundry smell guys?  Serge, are you quitting us?

This is not a Serge I’ve been watching my door to arrive.  I’m not a fan of the clean scents. I don’t hate them, I’m just weary of them.  I love fresh laundry, especially when we hung clothes out on the line when I was a kid – that smell lives in my head as the most beautiful smell in the world.   Clean skin is also a scent I love – fresh from the shower, slightly soapy.  Chemicals just can’t seem to reproduce those smells very well without it feeling like someone has whapped you up the side of the head with a branch from the “Freshnclean” tree.

Serge’s L’eau manages to shimmy past the Tampax Fresh Accord that most “freshnclean” scents ram right into going 90 miles an hour.  It winks on the open at Tide and Cheer, chemical, astringent, acidic, slightly bitter citrus.  At that moment, despite the near-miss on the TFA, I was prepared to just hate it, but it softens and becomes almost a smirk at all the chemical fresh scents out there and even makes me think for a  moment of summer days taking clothes off the line, with my nose pressed deeply in them as I carried them in the house – he doesn’t have it right, but it’s not a 15-yard miss either.

My normal habit for testing perfume is to shower, make sure I don’t put on any lotion, and then spray.  Running my nose from L’Eau to my freshly showered skin – it’s not the same, but they fit together, there’s no jarring whump.   It isn’t cranking up the Fresh piece of it at the decibel level of the Clean perfumes, which almost make me vomit – no, they do make me vomit, they’re like Nuclear Sunshine.

I’m not declaring love here, but it’s not hate, and it fits in with Serge’s line as the antidote to — well, Serge!  You can comfortably wear it out in public without explaining, unlike Muscs Koublai Khan where you are left fretting if it reallly smells like you smell it to everyone else, or are they just thinking you should have spent more time with your Secret before you dressed.  This is great for the office and summer.  It’s not exciting or gasp-worthy or shocking. If you’re going to wear a fresh, clean fragrance, this one is in the best of that pile.  I’ve Googled around and find a lot of hate at Basenotes, some hate out there at MUA though some people like it.  I think it’s a tough pill to swallow for Serge fans who want their perfume a little scary, weird and almost toxic.  This feels much more commercial, which, hey, even big movie stars do crappy movies for cash every now and then – I don’t judge.

Sample source is my bottle I’m decanting for TPC.  So let’s do a drawing on this.  I’ll do 6 sample winners from comments.  How do you feel about the whole “freshnclean” genre that has permeated all of perfumery for the last couple of decades?  Can it just be over? Will it ever be over?  Is there any that are great? I love L’eau d’Issey, always have.  It’s a great clean, nothing scent that makes me happy to wear.

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Mike
16 years ago

Hi Patty,

I also enjoyed that bulleted list, but I was hoping you’d put the names of the perfumes next to them! If you could do that, if you have the slightest bit of time to do it, it would be much appreciated (:

Mike

16 years ago

I do the job with these dogs and as far as animal behavior goes, I am a firm believer in nurture and training. I have met Jack Russell Terriers that I would not go near again, but have for no reason had a negative encounter with an American Staffordshire Terrier. If you are speaking about their owners- well, which is a diverse story. People are creatures as nicely, and we often every have our individual ideas about “moral concepts”.

Carla
16 years ago

The Serge summary you began with is just brilliant, especially the Iris Silver Mist description and the mention of cumin and cedar…so Serge!

16 years ago

I have a tiny sample (which is gone, so please enter me! :)), and felt almost guilty when both the GF and I put it on… and both really enjoyed it. I wouldn’t be surprised if it one day finds its way into the collection for hot summer days, being sprayed with abandon. You’re right though – it does nod to some of the more common fresh themed scents, but does make a unique turn for itself.

Nicole
16 years ago

I borrowed a sample of this from a friend, hated it immediately (too harsh, too citrusy, too grating!), and then after 6 hours it became almost imperceptable and quite, quite nice, low-pitched and softly hissing. My skin must have musked away all the “bad” flowers and oranges. Would have liked it better however without the ridiculous ad campaign declaring “this is art” when everyone knows that it’s not. Nice bottle though.

If it’s not too late please add me to the draw.

Laura M
16 years ago

Hmmm, well, I am curious about this one, as I can’t quite imagine what it smells like. I don’t like soapy/Tide/fabric softener smells particularly. If I am smelling actual bar soap, I’m OK with that! But I don’t like heavily scented laundry soap that leaves manufacturers’ versions of what “clean” should smell like in my clothes. But I do like transparent, light, interesting scents; some colognes; citruses; greens; and various things that most people would call “fresh” (Matsushima M; Jardin apres la Mousson, Eau de Cartier, Mugler Cologne, that kind of noncloying transparent maybe a bit leafy scent). Gosh, I even like some ozonic/marines. So I am going to argue that providing different strokes for different folks is a good thing. The problem seems to be that the big perfume companies and department store market become swamped by variations on whatever genre is the current fad: e.g., the ongoing fruity floral trend. And that is boooooring!

b-(

Ursula
16 years ago

Like I said before, just clean is completely uninteresting.

We want to be transported into a fantasy world. Bath and Body Shop has “Dancing Waters” a very fresh (clean!!) scent, but you imagine yourself in a tropical jungle waterfall.

The nose wants to pick up memories from paths travelled long ago and events long forgotten, and a simple clean scent just does not do it.

A simple piece of soap would do but even those in the industry who know will wisely scent them too, like Roger & Gallet soap, or Maja by Myrurgia soap. If they are so inexpensive, then why spend any money on a clean and watery scent, and the bottle looks very boring and clinical also.

Thumbs down.

benvenuta
16 years ago

Okay, I`m just too curious now. Please include me into the draw.

zeram1
16 years ago

Totally not int the “fresh” is in movement. Bring back the old Serge! PLease enter me in the drawing as well.

Nina Z.
16 years ago

* I love your bulleted list!
* I don’t want to smell like Tide.
* You do not need to include me in the draw.

16 years ago

I hate the fresh clean ozonic quality that has dominated masculine scents for the last couple of decades (all the Calvin Kleins after Obsession for Men, all the Polos and Davidoffs and and and), which is one of the reasons I love Serge Lutens so much: there is bound to be some appealing weirdness, something dark and offbeat and a little dangerous, and most importantly there is not going to be any goddamned Calone. At least, not until now.

I mean, I guess I’m willing to try it. But I’m not happy about it. I hope it is not a trend.

AnnieA
16 years ago

Uncle Serge Refuses to be Typecast! I can see the headlines now. If I want to smell clean I like a dash of cologne, or a splash of some French tomato-leaf thing I keep in the fridge…

16 years ago

I like it. A lot. Not a fan of clean scents because they can sometimes be soapy or too citrusy. But this isn’t clean so much as its “light” on me. Of course if it was not a Serge Lutens fragrance I probably would not have tried it. And bought two decants already. But I agree with Lee’s post: anti-perfume my arse.

Lilybug
16 years ago

Not interested in clean-smelling fragrances. To me, clean means devoid of life (literally). A shower with a bit of soap and unscented deoderant is all I want for clean in this chemical infested world. For a scent, I want something lively. Something that reminds me of the beauty of nature. I don’t see beauty or attraction in sterility.

mary
16 years ago

I had a little fun playing with my sample of this, layering it with some inexpensive oils. Layered with a little something sweet it is nice, but maybe I’m missing the point. I get a little musky citrus in it. I don’t really perceive it as clean and fresh, but I haven’t really explored that note or perfumes that are described that way. Anyway, if it doesn’t seem too greedy, please enter me in the drawing– if I had another sample to play with that would be fun. BTW– I like your new pix! Lookin’ good!:)>-

k-scott
16 years ago

Not a fan of the fresh n clean scents. Nothing can top being fresh out of the shower or laundry, so to me it seems that trying to wear a perfume to mimic that effect is pointless. The whole point of perfume for me (or other body products) is to smell of something that can’t be achieved by the standard practice of lathering up with Ivory. The real thing will always be so much better! All of this being said… I would still love to try L’Eau so I hope I win a sample 😉

Cathy
16 years ago

I don’t totally love clean scents, but my husband does — the more perfumey and wonderful something smells to me, the more likely he is to make a diplomatic comment along the lines of “Wow, that one sure is strong, huh?” He has a much more sensitive sense of smell than me, and I think he’s some kind of olfactory supertaster.

I’ve never tried a Serge Lutens and would love the chance to find out — please enter me in the draw! although it sounds like this isn’t exactly typical for SL.

LindaB
16 years ago

I have really been wanting to try this ONLY because it is a Serge so I would appreciate being added to the draw.
I thought that I liked “freshandclean” for certain occasions / seasons and have a few bottles on my shelf (cough-Be Delicious-cough) that I figured would be nice on days that I don’t want to think about my scent or am going to be close to others that don’t want to think about my scent. I felt sick by the end of a few hours with it. Too clean, too sweet, too…nothing. I’ll take my jacked up scents any day over a freshnclean, however, if it’s a Serge…

BPerf
16 years ago

Hi! I’ve been reading for quite a while, so thought I’d post my first comment. I like a good “clean” scent, but for me the problem with mostly everything that is described this way is a whole lot of uninteresting nothing. So, based on your lovely description, will be curious to discover L’Eau – please include me in the drawing!

I have loved perfume for a while now, but just started to get into non-mainstream brands, F. Malle and L’Artisan, so far have not tried anything Serge :”> – certainly will make to do that!

maggiecat
16 years ago

I love fresh and clean, although I’ve been woefully disappointing in most ‘fresh and clean” scents. Amazing Grace isn’t bad, Escale a Portofino is actually very fresh, and I’m anxious to try the new Milk scent from Archipelago – the body products are wonderful! My DH dislikes heavy perfumes, so that’s a factor – but even apart from wanting him not to sneeze at the sight of me, I love smelling just…nice. Do I have to turn in my perfumista card now?

CynthiaW
16 years ago
Reply to  maggiecat

lol – I don’t think you do. Even Turin and Sanchez say that there is a place for fragrances that just smell good. Plus, I think that most of us own a bottle (or 6) of things that we don’t like to admit to other perfumistas.

trinity
16 years ago

Hiya P!

I got a pleasant surprise when my Barney’s GWP beauty bag arrived – a nice size sample of the new Serge l’eau.

Unfortunately this scent caused an instant massive headache that had me scrambling for Darvon. I can’t deal with most clean scents anyway, and I think this puppy has some musk in there as well (which almost always causes a migraine too). So I should have just saved myself the trouble of taking the top off to sniff, and hit myself in the head with a hammer instead.

Can you tell I don’t care for it?? Ha Ha

I’m sure it’s lovely on other ppl, just not me.

Nancy
16 years ago

I too like the fresh clean thing on the clothes line or the clothes just off the line. But I’d sure like to try this little number. Please enter me in the draw. TY.

Tiara
16 years ago

Spring and summer are the only times I wear anything “clean”. There are a few I like and my youngest son invariably says, “mmmm” when I’m wearing one. He’s almost 19 and still comments on fresh, clean scents. He avoids me like the plague if I’m wearing anything spicy or a heavy floral.

So please enter me in the drawing. He’ll be home from college soon and perhaps he’ll be tempted to be in the same room with me longer!

Louise
16 years ago
Reply to  Patty

Reminds me of the time I oversprayed NK Incense before a road trip with my son (then age 12 or so). He tried to claw his way out of the little Toyota for hours, poor boy @-)

Disteza
16 years ago

It sounds like there’s a fair-sized group of Lutens lovers, myself included, who wish that Uncle Serge would go back to making daring, troublesome perfumes. Is there some sort of petition we can start up to send his way?

I’m also not feeling the clean trend; as the feminine product commercials might say, “I’m feeling a little less than fresh!” ;))
There’s an applicable French quote: “Cleanliness is a luxury of the poor; be dirty!” I absolutely agree. Those clean musks ARE cheap, whereas that lovely indolic jasmine absolute and civet are some of the most expensive items in the world. Perfume being a luxury item, why not spend the $$$ on some truly fab stuff? Those SLs aren’t cheap–I’d rather get my money’s worth with something that was less than synthetic.

Justine
16 years ago

I own and wear quite a few of Serge’s skankier scents. I’ll never forget when a male friend gave me a hug and pulled back with a startled look on his face that said wtf? It was MKK. He was too polite to comment and I really couldn’t think of anything to say, so I left it at that look. But the man who made MKK is now doing fresh? Kind of disappointing.

Living in sunny California, I can see where fresh scents come into play. I tend to like to a little wood and much less powder (I’d love NO powder with fresh, but I don’t see that happening) with my fresh, which makes them, well, less fresh but nonetheless I understand the thought.

I don’t think it will ever be over, and I don’t think it needs to over. There’s a place for those scents. I consider Light Blue a fresh scent, and while I don’t own it, I don’t mind it wafting down the hallway either; indeed I prefer to whomever has been dousing themselves in Coco MM or Angel lately.

I’m looking forward to trying SL take on fresh, so please, enter me in the drawing.

Justine
16 years ago
Reply to  Patty

Oh I continue to wear it all the time, but I have changed in that I do not put it on the back of my neck where when you hug, someones face can end up….it was really a timing issue also. MKK mellows into a gorgeous scent on me but it does go through that really skanky unwashed privates moment….and well, he hugged me right along then, and got an *upclose* sniff. Poor fellow. Even as he was going in for the hug I thought oh damn. It was a perfect storm, really. The look on his face was freaking priceless.

Ursula
16 years ago

Fresh and clean is boring!

There is no mystery …

E
16 years ago

I don’t know, I don’t find this to be such a bizarre addition to his line. He does have Cristal de Musc, after all. And I don’t mind clean scents (I quite enjoy Banana Republic W on a sweltering hot day), though I don’t think I’ll be looking into L’Eau — I wore cK One exclusively for a year when I was in high school, and I think that maxed me out on clean citrus for the rest of my life. But it doesn’t offend me on other people.

sara
16 years ago

clean is the olfactory equivalent to “you look fine.” JMHO. that said I’d like to enter the draw! cheers, sara

Tammy
16 years ago

What mariekel said, right down to the Pears soap. If I want fresh and clean, I’ll take a shower and face the world unscented.

And I am probably the only person on Earth who doesn’t like the fragrance of line-dried sheets. They smell hot to me, go figure!

No need to enter me in the draw, but I loved your review, and you do make Serge’s case for him!

Jemimagold
16 years ago

Please include me in the draw. I am keen to see how this compares to IUNX Eau Blanche!

ScentRed
16 years ago

FYI – If you’re eager to try Serge’s new creation and some other fresh scents…I just got an email notice that Luckyscent currently has a Spring Spritz sample pack which includes PG Papyrus de Ciane (reviewed yesterday on NST), Tocca Bianca, Calypso Bellini and M. Micallef Shanaan PLUS a complimentary sample of L’Eau Serge Lutens for $12 (+$5 for shipping to Canada, not sure about US).

It happens to hit a couple I have on my “to try list” and a few I’ve never even heard of, so I’m giving it a whirl.

p.s. I have no affiliation with Luckyscent. My apologies if this heads-up is against any rules.

KathyT
16 years ago

I like the fresh and clean genre sometimes, but it usually ends up getting on my nerves. TM Cologne is my go to for clean, but I usually prefer a light spicy fragrance. I would love to be in the drawing because I would like to try Serge Lutens’ take on fresh and clean.

Thanks!

CynthiaW
16 years ago

I’d love to try this – I’m not generally a “clean perfume” fiend (because, really, I can just take a shower for that, right?) However, there are a few that I have and like for the rare occasion that anything else is just to darn much – which is how I ended up with a FB of Pure White Linen Breeze. I don’t know that I’ll ever plop down that much cash to own what Serge thinks clean should smell like, but I’d still like to sniff it.

ScentRed
16 years ago

Call me a fickle ‘fumehead, but I’ve almost given up saying what I like/don’t like because as soon as I make a firm declaration I find myself falling for something I supposedly don’t really like or hating something I was sure I’d love.

For me clean falls in between my pre-concieved likes/dislikes. Generally (for today, anyway) I enjoy clean when it is linen or true-to-life woods or citrus. When clean is a watery, melony take on L’eau d’Issey, cleaneresque pine or faux citrus, I’m usually out. But you never know 😉

Would love to be in the draw.

Leslie
16 years ago

Ah, the FreshNClean genre. I agree with Monica. I think that we will continue to see these; there is clearly a pretty sizable market for them. I haven’t run across any that I would call ‘great’.

I’ve dabbled in the type, but haven’t found Perfect Love.

I had a small bottle of Aqua di Gio back when it first came out, and I loved it. I used the thing up, but it took a few years to do so. When I finished the bottle, my birthday was coming up, so the hubs acquired a new bottle. It’s the age-old story; Something Changed, the ‘fresh’ was suddenly aggressive, and the love died. I just gave it an experimental whiff, and nope. Love is still dead. [-(

I have a roll-on of Un Matin d’Orage. I like it quite a bit in the bottle. You know, remove the cap, wave it under your nose, inhale, slap that cap back on. It’s quite lovely that way.

Could Serge have been strong-armed into creating this new thing?

(thanks, but no need to put me in the draw 🙂 )

janh
16 years ago

I like the freshnclean on my Saturday morning thrift store nd yard sale travels. Saturday night is for dirty scents.

Elizabeth
16 years ago

Well, Serge Lutens has got us all talking about him and his products. Fresh and clean scent? I won’t say never… Please enter me in the draw. And would someone remind me what MKK stands for? Thanks!

16 years ago

I’m curious to try. I don’t like any other particualrly clean smelling scents. I think Montale Sandflowers has a breath of fresh air feel to it but nothing in it that’s supposed to smell like fresh/clean.

Ann N.
16 years ago

Hi all,
I’m kind of with March on this: After so many of his intricate, unusual, deep scents, maybe he wanted to challenge himself and show he could do “clean” as well as any other perfumer.
And if it broadens his fan base and brings in lots of new moolah, well, that never hurts, I guess.
I’m going to try and keep an open mind and judge it on its own merits. Thanks for the great review (as always) and please enter me in the draw. Thanks!

Mrs.Honey
16 years ago

I don’t do clean, even without the Tampax-fresh acccord. I tested Carriere again yesterday (it was allergist day and I usually don’t wear perfume) but it’s the carpet cleaner note that I can’t stand. All those clean type scents remind me of commercial spot cleaner for carpets. (Although a few of them also do add in the Tampa-fresh accord for good measure.)That said, the Serge would be worth trying, just to see if he avoided the dreaded Woolite-for-rugs note.

Tara
16 years ago

I am not wild about clean. Its tooo PC and safe. That’s not to say that some clean scents aren’t lovely, but I just can’t see spending any significant amount of money to smell like a really nice dryer sheet!

Rowanhill
16 years ago

Maybe Shiseiso asked for a commercial success. That is my only explanation.

Carolyn
16 years ago

I too love L’eau d’Issey. It used to be my go to perfume. I stopped wearing it when all the other “clean, fresh” scents started coming out. I tend to move on when the “fad” for anything hits, always working my way out to the margins. Carolyn

16 years ago

Et tu, Serge?

But, as a big SL fan, I have to be a completist, right? Please enter me into the draw and thank you for the review!

16 years ago
Reply to  Patty

oooh a giant-er tippy tall bottle of air ? sweeeeet !!

Ann N.
16 years ago
Reply to  Patty

Hi Patty,
When you mentioned “the new Guerlain” did you mean the Tonka Imperiale? I’m curious to know what it is about it that’s not sitting right with you? It’s not my Holy Grail, but it does work quite well for me, and it’s one of the few Guerlains I can wear, so that makes me happy.

Admin
16 years ago

Hey, P. Well, still not dying to try it. /:)

It doesn’t seem horrifying so much as … pointless. On those occasions where I don’t want to smell like a dungheap, or a spice rack accident, there are plenty of existing options among the colognes, citrus-y EDTs, etc. Maybe the man just wanted to satisfy his curiousity and demonstrate he could do such a scent? Still seems like a waste of an SL bottle.

Joe
16 years ago
Reply to  March

March, it’s not just pointless. It really is kind of horrifying. b-(

But oh yeah, that bottle is niiiice.

16 years ago
Reply to  Joe

Joe,

is your bottle the white one? That’s the one currently in rotation at Chicago Barneys. Totally different from the regular bottles but that may have just been a tester 😕

xo >-)

Joe
16 years ago
Reply to  Musette

A: You think I own a BOTTLE!!??? =))

A bottle could wipe out Tokyo, if you asked me.

I have a mini-decant. But I think it’s in a tall, narrow bottle with a square footprint?

16 years ago
Reply to  Joe

;))

where is the Godzilla emoticon when you need him? I think(?) the bottle I remembered is white but the one I see avail now is a taller, narrower version of his signature shape. It could’ve been a ‘special tester’…. or I might be misrememberin’… 😕

xo >-)

16 years ago

pallet/palate – in this context I believe you mean palate as in taste , not the wooden thing-y found in warehouses stacked with boxes ( pallet )
Sorry for being nit-picky….
don’ want to get near L’eau , though . Another joke on us . The aroma-chem materials for this must have been on sale !!

16 years ago
Reply to  Patty

I knew what you meant too…and I luv ya all the same !!

karin
16 years ago

Believe it or not, I’m a Serge virgin. So, if I try this one, it can only be up from here, right? 😉 Sure, include me in the draw. Thanks, Patty!

I, too, really don’t like clean scents. If I wanted to smell like soap, I wouldn’t wear perfume! And I steer clear of all soap-smelling soaps. Much prefer scented soaps. Anyone tried MOR? Expensive, but great scents!

16 years ago
Reply to  Patty

I totally agree. This would either confuse her re the whole Serge oeuvre or put her off the line forever!

xo >-)

in fact; Karin – click on my name, let’s chat.

karin
16 years ago
Reply to  Musette

Musette, I click on your name, and it brings me to a website for a company named Bear Boring in Wyoming…is that you?

16 years ago
Reply to  karin

yes. you can contact me via there or at evilauntieanita (at) gmail – the gmail is prolly the best place.

xo >-)

karin
16 years ago
Reply to  Patty

Thanks for the concern, Patty!!! Love how this community takes care of its own. 🙂 Perhaps I’ll have to step over to PC and dive into Serge. I’ve actually been avoiding them cause I’m just not ready to find another fragrance line that I love…been concentrating on L’Artisans and Guerlains lately, among others.

london
16 years ago

Omnia Crystalline is as close as I get to the shower fresh fragrance but I can’t dismiss this unless I try it so please do enter me in the drawing

sybil
16 years ago

I don’t do fresh and clean as Ines, among many, said…but if I won a sample, you know I’d be spraying it like a fool, to see if it’s as bad as Joe said.

This was a funny post, made me laugh even before coffee!