Anyone else have this item come up in their eBay permanent searches for Iris Gris? Oh, don’t be coy and try and tell me you don’t have eBay searches you get e-mailed every day for Djedi, Iris gris, vintage guerlain, etc.? Well, if you don’t, you should.
So this listing pops up, and they claim:
“Created sixty years ago, in 1947, by one of the best French Perfumers for Jacques Fath, IRIS GRIS is considered by most as a monument of perfumery. Jacques Fath passed away in 1954 which brought a stop to Iris Gris, too expensive to manufacture. It was taken off the market never seen again, until now.
We are relaunching this amazing scent, with quality in mind.
In our formula, we only use the Irris Pallida and particulary its rhizomes process the “old way”, as it takes no fewer than six years to process and extract the precious Orris buter.
Unlike any other Iris products, the scent open on a harmonious accord between the Iris Pallida and the downy peach, delicately sustained by a floral bouquet of Tuberose, Lilac, Lily of the Valley and Jasmine. Dries down to a soft layer of Cedarwood, Musk and Oakmoss.”
If you thought I wouldn’t spring for the $20 to try this and see, you don’t know me very well. I have a teensy bit of Fath Iris Gris, like two drops, and I smelled it at the Osmoteque (sp?) in France a couple of years ago, so I have at least some famiarity with what it should smell like – rich iris, sweetened with peach. It’s the perfect iris scent.
How does this new re-creation hold up? Not enough peach, though it’s certainly been kissed by a peach similar to the one in the Fath Iris Gris. They just don’t feel exactly the same, but I think that would be a hard thing to hit exactly with the changes in chemical production for perfumes that’s taken place in the past few decades. It’s a little heavier on the iris powdery effect than the original Iris Gris on the open, and it’s not that vaguely sweet like the original early on but it has a very smooth, rich, buttery iris feel that’s a little like L’Artisan Iris Pallida. I wish I had enough of the original left in my bottle to put on my skin, but I can’t get those drops out without them vanishing forever, which would make me cry. Just as a stand-alone iris, without any comparisons to the legendary original, I like it a lot and will happily wear my little samples and may even go for a bottle. I’m a little too focused on it being a recreation for this, and it’s hard to separate out that assumption while I’m sniffing. It seems a little fleeting, but sometimes I get that impressions with iris scents because I keep sniffing too close, but I find they have a tremendously beautiful waft that I just can’t smell very long next to the skin. The longer I have this one, and I did a big spray all over to try and get the waft of it , the more of a lilting peach scent it has in all that iris, and I’m pretty infatuated with it. Still not sure that it’s a ringer for Iris Gris, I never dabbled much of the original on my skin ever, and my memory just isn’t that good, but it is in that mold, and it is well made and really lovely to wear as the notes delicately float around me. People were walking through the room asking what that great smell was. Hey, in this house when smells are always getting tested and sprayed, that a scent gets asked about is pretty telling.
Has anyone else spotted this and bought? Of course I got more than one! And I’m going to give away four (I’ll have to break two of the larger spray samples up into smaller amounts in a spray), but only if you promise to give me your thoughts for a future post. So tell me if you’ve smelled the original or not and if you have, what you thought of it. I’ll pick two people that have smelled the original and two that have not to send this to.
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i never smelled the original. iris is one of my favorite flowers and i would love to find a fragrance that has true iris scent. Hermes Hiris was way too carrot-y on me and Prada’s Infusion smelled like baby powder. I would love to see a post that compares several iris fragrances next to each other 😉
Hey, if you’re still taking names, I’d love a sample. I definitely haven’t smelled the original, but of course I’m intrigued since it’s one of those great historical perfume teases.
I keep wanting to try different layering experiments: I think TDC Bois d’Iris would be good with something like KM Peau de Peche. Actually, I just layered the TDC Iris with TDC Osmanthus and it smells pretty damn good. But in general, I’m not a layering type of guy.
I’ll be very curious once they launch this thing. I’m of the opinion that you can’t have too many irises.
Those tantalizing samples are sold out already – so frustrating! I also stumbled on the Scented Salamander post last weekend and was hoping someone would review this – huge thanks for making my wish come true so quickly, Patty!
I’ve been playing around with L’AP Iris Pallida and a couple of peach samples, but I have no idea what I’m doing, never having sniffed either the original or the official recreation. And there’s no way to get the right touches of celery, cedar and musk that Denyse mentions, is there? :(|)
Please enter me in the drawing for a sample and I’ll be happy to report back.
unfortunately I have never had the chance to smell the original but sounds wonderful. A potential future post for tight economic times – less expensive perfumes that don’t smell cheap but smell similar to their high end cousins
Not one to enter draws on other places usually, but their ad copy has got me wondering and scratching my head so now I am curious to see how they do it (if at all; will try to go from memory in this case). If this is not closed yet and EU isn’t antithetical to your purposes, I would be grateful for the chance.
Funny they advertise they are going to launch this in the US: we’re talking about a huge market, so I’m sceptical on the feasibility of the materials.
Thanks JRH; most interesting.
Emile, you are rude.
How would you know about what the budget was for this perfume – are you involved?
Producing a tribute to the original fragrance is one thing,
using the name is quite another.
Whatever the legal situation, using the same name is misleading & dishonourable.
Snosher, No Iam not involved but I know when a product is well done and you do not create such perfume in one day. This formula contain at least 20% or more of the orris butter. When you know the cost of orris (the traditional one), this formula is surely expensive.
In regards to be misleading & dishonourable, this is business!
What do you say about VC&A using and launching BOIS D’IRIS in 2009 knowing that BOIS D’IRIS was launch in 2000 by The Different Company? I guess, nobody care since I never seen a comment about it!
I do think that credit should be given to this company trying to make a dream come through to so many peoples and not buying a decant at exhorbiting price such $300 for 1ml!
I have never smelled the original.
I would love to read a post about the perfumes made in Grasse, especially considering all of the different flower “festivals” that happen in Grasse during the summer. Grasse is, after all, Ground Zero in perfume making. This is where it all started.
Please enter me in the draw!
It would be so interesting if Denyse could do a side-by-side.
We need a properly objective view.
JRH you are right that this company look pretty tacky.
They had some kitsch juice out called “Treasure Island”.
The company have trademarked “Iris Gris”?
Is that legal?
Certaintly it is not honourable.
I think this is a cynical attempt to make a lot of money from perfume lovers. Even some of the good folks here sound a little unclear that this is NOT the original. Just because of the name people will be queing up like lemmings to part with their cash.
I really don’t like the smell of this whole business.
Be careful, folks.
In September 2009, Legendary Fragrances, in suburban Phoenix, applied for a trademark on the Iris Gris name. Someone could certainly challenge the registration, claiming that it’s deceptive. But it’s a little bit of a challenging argument because (1) Jacques Fath never trademarked Iris Gris in this country; and (2) even if he had, it hasn’t been used here in decades. One of the guiding principles behind trademark law is that you have to “use it or lose it.”
And based on my research, nobody did challende it.As you said, IG has not been used in this Country for the past 40 some years and wasn’t even trademark. In Europe, Fath even lose their Registration in 1976!
Snocher, your comments are irrelevant!
Did you ever smell the Original? No. Did you smell the new IG? No.
As a perfumer myself, I get my sample yesterday, and the scent is impressive, orris with a gentle touch of Peach (C14). Now to make a comparaison with a product 40 years old..! Even Denyse say that her product doesn’t smell like the “reference” at the Osmotheque. I think that Legendary Fragrances, spent some time (and money) to make this happen. As far of the legal matter, if they trademark the name, that mean it was available and clear.
Goodness gracious.. this is one of those classics that one only hopes to try… so if you think this is comparable then I would love to try this. Wonder when this will really come out…
I’ve never smelled this but ohmigod it sounds so appealing!
I have a smidge of the original so I would love to compare this. Even if it is a shadow of the Fath I applaud M. Bellet for the attempt! Count me in.
I’ve never smelled this, but I’d love to. 🙂
I have not smelled the original- but it is a phenom from what I hear…Would love to sniff!
Future posts: Summer lovin’ perfumes (summer faves or scent the cast of Grease)…or how about a post on good YEAR ROUND perfumes…heh? heh?
I’ve never smelled the original, but have a new found love of peach and iris together thanks to Guerlain Vol de Nuit Evasion. I love how the fruit fades to smooth iris and Guerlain vanilla and sandalwood.
I can only imagine how lovely this scent may be. My SO reacts very rarely to perfumes, but founds Prada L’Eau Ambree very enticing. So I definitely understand how special it is for non-perfumistas to call a scent, “pretty”!
Thanks for sharing the story and the perfume, Patty, and please enter me in the drawing! I’d love to share a review! 😡
Please put me in the draw, I would love to try this lovely scent!
Never smelled either–would love to try!
I would love to smell this. I love the scent of the irises in my yard but I have never smelled any iris perfumes.
I have never smelled the original either. But I have been buying orris butter (which is steam-distilled, and aged for several years) for awhile, and it currently costs more than $700/ounce so I find it hard to believe that they are really putting this in their product. Maybe a smidge.
In case anyone is curious you can buy tiny samples of orris butter from Eden Botanicals… and it is extremely beautiful.
That’s a thought I’ve had too. In fact, every perfumer I’ve spoken to has said Iris Gris is unfeasible today primarily because of the cost of orris butter (unless you buy the cheaper Biolandes stuff, but it doesn’t have the same olfactory qualities).
I mean, when a perfumer puts as much 0.5% orris butter in a formula he practically faints… And if Iris Silver Mist were sold at true cost it would be worth 1000 euros retail.
1000 euros?? Wow. Some of those other scents in the line must be produced dirt cheap to offset that cost differential. I’m glad I have a bottle of ISM – maybe I should buy another as insurance!
Really? That sounds divine. Like EDEN very much as a source of the real and raw components.
Meant to say–I’d love to try either.
I’ve never smelled either.
I’d love to do a blogpost on how we think our favorite fictional characters would smell, perfume wise. I write a lot of fanfiction, and I’ve actually answered that question for much of the cast of Harry Potter in my fics.
The important question for me is how would Rhett Butler smell? Edward Cullen would smell good too.
I love iris flowers – both for their beauty and scent – but haven’t yet found an iris perfume I like. I’d love to try this!
You know, I think I got my sample from y’all at TPC a few years back. I kept the vial in a plastic blue Easter egg in my desk at work, so that I could smell it from time to time. I see that I still have the Easter egg, but lost the vial. Please don’t ask me why I put it in a plastic blue Easter egg, because I have no idea why I did that. I do some loopy things from time to time…well all of the time. I think I wanted to preserve the fragrance from the vial.
Anyway, I recall that the fragrance was gorgeous and peachy and rooty and feminine. But it faded quickly on my skin.
I would love for you to enter me in the drawing.
Thank you, Patty!
Hugs!
I had so many ebay search-alerts going that I finally had to set them to “no email notification”– I had such poor sales resistance. (Well okay, I did leave a few set to email).
I have no experience with the original but would love to try this Iris Gris wannabe.
This sounds so lovely. I haven’t smelled the original, but have been on a bit of an iris kick lately, with spring in the air and all.
My ebay searches are mainly for stockups of favorites right now, which is a pleasant and leisurely activity.
Haven’t tried either of those but my 101 intro to iris was VC&A Bois d’Iris and it was love
at first smell. Can’t keep my nose away from my arms with it on.
As for eBay and vintage Guerlain, just lost a bid on it. :(( Gonna put my shopping boots on right now.
Iris Gris sounds too intriguing to pass up and considering the compliments it garnered
I’m wanting it real bad. Really bad.
For future post? Maybe the one perfume you wear that ALWAYS causes public panicky cries
of ‘WHAT are you wearing? it smells divine, where did you buy it?’:x
I PROMISE. I have not smelled the original. (Laughing/weeping noises here)
However, when I was a little girl, my mother had a small jar in a antique cupboard with other aromatic things from the garden of orris powder. I believe she was using it for pot potpourri purposes (disclosure — the 70’s). I would creep up to the cupboard and open all the various jars and such, but I have a very clear memory of the haunting sweet dryness slight floral/slight vanilla/slight carrotness of this…so I imagine this in perfume shape. This smell also mingles with the smell of the antique cupboard…in memory. The other day I smelled an iris (tall dark blue) up close and it too has a fantastic smell…not of the orris…but the two together in a fragrance would be interesting..
Cheryl.
Have never tried the Fath but would love to. And promise to send detailed sniffing notes.
MJ
I have not tried the original and would love to be entered in the draw. I have a difficult time smelling Iris as well, even all the beautiful ones starting to make their appearance in my front yard. I appreciate their physical beauty though more than any other flower. Some many varieties too!
I have an idea for a future post: How about the most expensive perfume you own and how often/where do you wear it? How do you decide it an event/day is worthy or is it something spritzed on with abandon?
Completely off topic but I HAVE to share this with somebody. I used my sample of Dzongkha this morning for the 1st time and BLECHHHH times a million. Holy moly. I definitely gagged and almost vomited. Had to find the rubbing alcohol and scrubbed. Does anyone actually like this monstrosity? Thanks for listening if you got this far…:)
I like it enormously in one context. Tortuously HOT day (August) outside in a dry forest. Under such conditions it swirls around in a bewitching tantalizing manner. It seems to need to breathe with the forces of nature — hot dry wind….
Well, I love Dzonghkha and wear it quite often. It’s very detached and meditative, there’s nothing else out there like it. I can understand, though, how it could be off-putting, it’s quiet but surprising strong, if that makes any sense.
I love it too. As Masha said, it’s very meditative, very unusual, but I can understand how some people would find the earthy-rooty-carroty notes offputting.
I love Dzongkha, but hated it the first time I smelled it. It was something that was intially off-putting but compelling, I sampled it multiple times and ultimately fell in love. It’s definitely an acquired taste.
Hi again!
Thanks for the comments and food for thought. I didn’t throw the sample away so there’s a chance at a second sampling, haha. I really wanted to like this but it seriously almost brought my breakfast up. I don’t shy away from strange scents and definitely gave this some time to develop. It may just be my chemistry but it was awful. I promise I am going to try again but as Cheryl suggested, in hot/DRY weather. It’s been fairly humid in Jersey these days.
Have a nice weekend all!
Havent smelled amy iris frag but love my own Edith Wolford bearded.
I bought the sample, although it was really expensive. I haven’t tried it, but the outfit that produces it looks pretty bush league. The copy looks like it was written by an author of bodice-ripping romance novels. And it isn’t even proofread.
Does anybody know anything about the manufacturer? They registered the Iris Gris trademark a few months ago and are in Arizona, but that’s about all I can figure out.
Alas, I have not smelled Iris Gris… and does it make me a total and utter moron that I had not even heard of the stuff until one of the recent Paris posts from either March or Angela? Ok yeah, I’m a moron, I know! But I’d still like to try it, or rather an approximation of it. Iris & peach… it sure does sound dreamy. So please enter me in the drawing? Thanks Patty!
Djedi. Why / how can I weep for something I never knew, and never will?
Iris…love love love iris, both root AND flower (waves to Tara up above, waits for March to come declare her love). The yin/yang of being perfume pals with Musette…sadly pained for her inability to fully take it in, due to the anosmia…happily restored by knowing she’s generous and always shares. (As in, push it across the table, saying “Can YOU smell this?” ;;) )
I am not, will not, cannot mention auction habits. I believe in voodoo. There is stirring in the Force. Must be :-$ until the voices quiet again…)
you can know Djedi, at least in passing.
.
xo >-)
😮
8-}
(there was no “fall out guy”)
I’m just beginning to explore iris based fragrances, so I don’t know how valuable my thoughts would be. But I would love to try this.
Put me in the never tried category as well but no surprise there. I remember reading the piece on Grain de Musc when Denyse found that bottle and thinking it must be something for her to pursue it plus be amazed at how great it was.
While I’m sure coming up with new ideas for blog pieces gets tedious, I hope you know how much we appreciate what you do. The new release reviews are greatly appeciated since there are so many these days.
Never tried it, The Guide made it sound wonderful! Please enter me in.
OK…this is apparently a version created by a US company – Legendary Fragrances – who trademarked the name in the US. Here’s a description on Scented Salamander:
http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2010/01/a_us_version_of_jacques_fath_i.html
Never tried the original, and I can’t imagine this one comes close to it!
BTW – the Q&A link on SS site doesn’t work – looks like Legendary Fragrances removed it from their website. But here’s a cached link from Google. Hope this works! 🙂
The cached link works – thank you! (*)
I have not smelled either but would love to be entered into the drawing, thanks!
I am one of those people who have Ebay searches saved, and I’ve been curious about this item for about a week now. The seller had 0% feedback, so I was afraid to try. Now that you bought it, I ‘ll follow
Unfortunately, never smelled the vintage version.
Iris is one of my all-time favorite notes (the other being galbanum), so I would love to sniff this re-creation of Iris Gris. I’ve never sniffed the original. My favorite iris scents, so far, are 28 La Pausa, Infusion d’Iris, VC&A Bois d’Iris, Le Labo Iris 39 and AcP Iris Nobile. Haven’t had a chance to sniff the L’A Iris Pallida or the SL Iris Silver Mist yet. Also haven’t sniffed the DKNY Iris yet. Tried The Different Company Bois d’Iris, but it was only ‘meh’ on me. Guerlain’s Iris Ganache was too sickening sweet.
Ideas for future blogs: I like posts that explore lines that I’m not familiar with, seasonal recommendations, maybe something on regional scent preferences, discussion on the mythological connection between a person’s coloring and what scents work with them…you all seem to come up with great ideas all the time. 🙂
Tried neither, but am really curious, please count me in.
Can’t wait to hear the reports.
Been lurking for a while….
I haven’t tried the original. So far, my favorite iris is Odori’s; I would love to try this one.
Is evilbay the only place to get it now? Will google….
I am intrigued.
I have not had the good fortune to smell the original Iris Gris, but boy would I love to win a sample of the new one! XOX
I can’t believe I’ve never smelled this…would love to try it!(love iris perfumes,as thet’re usually subtle enough to wear anywhere,without offending those near you….)…I’d love to know from all the perfume addicts,here,(1)what is the one perfume you reach for the MOST,on a daily basis,and(2)your fav for those evening ‘trysts’….I know this is very simplistic,but you are all really interesting,with such different views and tastes…AND WE WON’T CALL IT A POLL,as other ‘places/boards’ do,nooo sireeeee..this iz fer all you grownups out there…carry on…:”>
I was lucky enough to smell the original at the Osmothèque. %%-!
I would love to compare the two, and I fell hard for the original Iris Gris.
Of course I wasn’t allowed skin testing, but I studied that precious paper strip dipped in the juice as if I was performing a real experiment: taking notes, sniffing, sniffing, gawking, sniffing, calling my husband…you know, the usual stuff! 😉
I didn’t get a powdery iris, but a rooty one with a light metallic edge. I didn’t really smell the peach, but I got its amazing effects on the iris, as if the iris was enveloped in the soft, velvety fresh skin of the fruit…if this makes any sense.
So please, please enter me in the draw, and please please please pick me!!![-o< p.s. I read somewhere that as Panouge's homage to Iris Gris was so deceiving (I smelled it and can confirm) an American based company was determined to resurrect this classic. I wonder where they will ever get that amazing supply of iris infusion used in the original...
I think you were kind enough once to provide me with a precious 1ml of IG. You or some other crazy! 😡 It’s a marvellous thing.
Oh boy, I’m totally IN. I own a few precious drops of the original, and I occasionnally dig it up to sniff it. And it’s glorious. I had been waiting for this version for some time, and I’d love to do a side-by-side to see if it does hold any water…. crossing fingers! :)>-
well, i have a teeny tiny mini bottle of the real stuff, and it is fantastic… however, last October I was at the Osmothèque and smelled the orginal (which is, of course, gorgeous).. here i finally smelled the top notes that had vanished from my own bottle (the one i own goes quite quickly to the “bready” part of the iris smell). However, as i also have a bottle of Iris Silver Mist (the SL mentioned above) i was struck by the very strong similarity in smell, although Iris Gris itself is a tad more gentle (?)in my opinion, and ISM a tad more severe (not in a bad way though). Since the real stuff is not there anymore (or until now, perhaps?) i happily wear ISM instead :x. Still, i’d love to sniff this new rendition!
I love Iris Pallida and would early love to smell the original Iris Gris but have not.
My most beautiful peach note is a parfum de toilette ebay Mitsouko – gorgeous .. but how long can 30ml last??
Would love to smell this.
I’ve seen a thread about this on Basenotes. As you know, I actually happen to own a bottle of Iris Gris and I *have* worn it a few times (usually to impress perfumers). My bottle is a little different from the Osmothèque reconstitution (this doing a side-by-side), the Osmothèque being a little stronger on the iris. From my bottle — re-smelled it a couple of days ago with a perfumer — I get a peach notes that veers towards osmanthus, and a touch of raspberry/violet, perhaps a bit of jasmone (this is the part of jasmine that has a touch of celery). There is certainly cedarwood and musk.
So all in all, the notes announced in this knock-off aren’t quite true to the formula. Lilac? Lily-of-the-valley? I think not.
This is one draw I’d like to enter in though, because I’m very curious to do the side-by-side both with my own bottle and the Osmothèque reconstitution.
Carmencanada: I did some research about IRIS GRIS and it seems that the original has some lilac and lily of the valley.
http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2008/01/iris-gris-jacques-fath.html
Octavian smelled my Iris Gris as well as, of course, the Osmothèque reconstitution: in fact, he was there when I unsealed my bottle. As I said, I smelled it again with a perfumer recently and those notes are not prominent at all.