Hey Perfume Posse! Back in 2014 my mate Michael and I did a tour of Europe. Jin was starting a new job so couldn’t get away for 4 weeks. One of the amazing things we did was meet the men from Oriza L Legrand in their Paris shop. One of the things I love about Franck and Hugo is their honesty about recreations, that they are creating as close to with modern materials. At the time Cuir de l’Aigle Russe (Russian Eagle Leather) hadn’t been released so we missed it in our sniffings. Fortunately it’s available in their very reasonably priced Sample Pack.
Cuir de l’Aigle Russe by Oriza L. Legrand 1892
(21st Century Recreation)
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander, Lavender, Davana, Italian bergamot, Prickly cedar, Styrax
Heart: Bourbon geranium, May rose, Immortelle, Cardamom, Styrax, Indonesian patchouli
Base: Labdanum, Frankincense, Musk, Tonka bean, Sandalwood, Amber, Benzoin, Vetiver
Ohhhhhh! Lavender sugar and dry wood dominate the opening with a hint of animal and a fluffy, billowing clouds in the sky powder. Cuir de l’Aigle Russe smells like perfect peaches and cream skin looks. Or like putting your finger into loose powder feels. Let me be clear though, this doesn’t feel like the powdery scents of our grandmas. This is a modern, dynamic, exciting powder ready to spring into action.
The geranium, rose and styrax take centre stage for the heart. The spiciness of the geranium, clear sweet rose and funky styrax creating a very interesting triad with an ever-present powdery softness. Like nothing I ever smelled before. Underneath patchouli/labdanum plays base note, holding everything else on the ground and keeping it deep and weighty.
Resins, amber and a musk that smells to me of animal rather than white, could it be the labdanum and styrax giving it a brown feral quality sweetened buy the tonka? Not sure but it smells excellent.
If you hate powdery fragrances I don’t think that Cuir de l’Aigle Russe will change your mind. Maybe if you hate powder but quite like a hint of skank then this could indeed be one to try.
Further reading: Now Smell This
Oriza L Legrand has €120/100ml and ship Worldwide
Oriza L Legrand has €42/18 x 2ml spray samples
Have you tried any of the Oriza Legrand fragrances?
Portia also writes for Australian Perfume Junkies.
Howdy, Portia! What a cool post! This thing sounds pretty sweet to try (and I’m not a huge fan of powdery scents, but you do have a way with words 🙂 ). I’ve only tried one or two from them (a chypre, I think, that was one of their inaugural scents), but look forward to sampling more. Thanks, dear!
Powder and skank? I love both! Thank you for another introduction to a fragrance I must try. I can always count on enjoying sniffing your perfume recommendations Portia and I’m never disappointed, I love your style!
Powder and skank! Eternally luscious to me. We are clearly scent twinned, that’s exciting!
If powder and skunk are your thing then the whole Oriza Legrand line will probably work for you, it’s almost their signature.
I am reading about all of their fragrances now and will order samples. Again thank you for the introduction to Oriza L Legrand, I love the history too. Yes, you and I are on the same fragrance page. I was amazed that your choice for New Year’s day included Shalimar. Seriously, that is the fragrance I chose to ring in the New Year!
I have no problem with powder in perfume.It all depends on the overall effect in the composition. A favorite perfume of mine is from Oriza L. Legrand – Muguet Fleuri. It is one of my few seasonal perfumes. Warm weather only and sprayed below the knees, on skin or clothes. It’s big on me, so this way, it wafts up around me without overwhelming me. I have tried others by them and there are some likes but no other loves, so far.
I love that you wear it far away from your nose but it’s still HUGE!
I have not tried anything from this house and this one sounds right up my alley when reading the notes. I might be a little picky with powder and really specific about my skank but I will give it a go.
Fingers crossed Eldarwen22. I hope it fits the bill.
I like powder…but only when it’s a puff of Puff in the crackle of aldehydes. At least that’s what I tell myself. I am intrigued by the idea of powder and leather together..hmmm….
I think this might blow your powder love Musette, either in love or absolute abhorrence. Worth a try just in case I reckon.
Thanks for your review of this and what a great looking crew in that photo! I love the Oriza aesthetic and have liked what I’ve tried so far. I have a sample of this one but never looked up the notes, horrors! Lol. You described it perfectly and it is a bit funky which, to me makes it oddly compelling. My favorite powder from this house us still Jardins d’Armide ?
Hey there ElisaP,
Jardins d’Aramide is still my only FB from the line but there are a couple on my list for purchase in Paris later in the year.
Looove this house. Need bottles.
Oooh, this sounds fantastic – and I’m not even a particular fan of powder. Thanks for the heads up!
Hey there March,
I could so imagine you rocking the holy bejeezus outta this one.