So, it’s February. I realised on the first day of the month I felt a huge weight lifting. That’s not happened in previous years. I generally haven’t minded January. The weather wasn’t great this year, but I’m really not sure what the issue is/was. In any case, having now reached 5 February, I still feel that sense of relief.
I’ve been thinking about immortelle for the last week or so. Like my post January relief, I’m not sure where that came from.
So I pulled out my decant of Dior Eau Noire from the La Collection Privée which is the only thing I which appears to have that note.
This is from 2004 (oy, that’s almost 20 years ago) and was among the first three fragrances in LCP. I have no real sense of the other two but as soon as I sampled Eau Noire I wanted it. But … I didn’t want 125ml of anything at that point and I still don’t.
To me, these are sizes to split. But somehow instead of a split someone I knew on the Makeup Alley fragrance board offered a large decant (extremely kind of her) and that’s what I have – ie, around 30ml. I got it more than a decade ago and it still smells gorgeous.
The nose for this is Francis Kurkdjian and the notes include (per Fragrantica) thyme, sage, lavender, coffee, cedar, immortelle, saffron (there it is – another saffron I love is Theo Fennell Scent), licorice, vanilla, violet, leather and ‘stem greens’ (whatever that includes). Interestingly, in the Fragrantica picture, the juice is a stem green colour. In the Dior picture from the website now it’s vague yellow.
Portia wrote about Eau Noire in 2012 here.
So, this. I love this. It’s a heavy duty fragrance – unctuous (like, really – sort of oily and comes on strong). In the opening period (ie, first 45 minutes) I get thyme, leather, immortelle and licorice. A wonderful combo. Nothing really woody. More like a really great licorice that wouldn’t be sweet enough for a lot of people. There’s also a bit of coffee in there.
Like Kilian Dark Lord (my decant isn’t here yet) this definitely lives up to its ‘noir’ label. But it never feels sleezy or weird. Rather, it’s incredibly classy.
Unsurprisingly, this lasts forever on my skin (like 12 hours) and just gets better and more interesting before sighing into the smell of date molasses (or those burlap bags of dates you sometimes see in Middle Eastern shops here). In between it just maintains that heavy dried fruit sweetness but with enough of the herbal aspect to keep it from falling over a nauseating cliff and a good dose of licorice which seems to lend it a roughness in texture.
My decant is less than half empty however many years on. So, happily I won’t have to go hunting for someone to do a split with etc. It’s certainly something I want around, particularly in cooler weather (I once wore it to a party in the summer and that didn’t work too well, though no one was rude enough to say so).
Is this one of yours? Do you grow immortelle? Like dates and licorice? What about the other perfumes in La Collection Privée – any of those your jam?
Pics mine and Pexels