Best Perfumes of 2008

Best Perfumes of 2008

The first thing that hit us when we went to pull this Best Perfumes of 2008 list together is the monumental number of fragrances released in 2008, many of which we have yet to smell, even though we’re doing our best to keep up.  We’ve revised this list several times and could just as easily have added or deleted various fragrances, so feel free to mock us or offer your own list in the comments.

  •  Chanel Beige and Sycomore — Both part of Les Exclusifs, they demonstrate indisputably that Chanel still has something interesting to add to the conversation.  Sycomore is a woody vetiver that’s a must-try for any serious vetiver freak (and is also more of a powerhouse than much of Les Exclusifs.)  Beige is a classic-manner Chanel along the lines of 31 Rue Cambon that surprised both of us; for something that’s not particularly our “style” we found ourselves turning to it again and again.
  • Le Labo City Exclusives — Poivre 23, Gaiac 10 and Musc 25.  As Patty notes, we are on a roll now.  March didn’t even care about these until she smelled Poivre and promptly muscled her way into a split.  Bonus points for actually smelling like their names.  Points deducted for being ridiculously expensive and difficult to get.
  • Amouage Homage Attar — Smoky, woody oud and ridiculously expensive, but should we hold that against it? It really is lovely, and one little drop lasts all day.
  • Amouage Lyric Women — Spicy, smoldering rose, it has a soft, enveloping, addictive quality that had Patty squirming in joy.
  • Dianne Brill — March adds this as her dark horse.   Celebrity fragrances seem almost destined to fail the interest test — even people like Gwen Stefani end up releasing dull juice (albeit really cute bottles for the Harajukus.)  Dienne Brill’s not an A-list celebrity, and the fragrance is not everyone’s cup of tea/cigar/sawdust/poppers, but hats off to her for setting out with an oddball vision and producing a fragrance that achieved it.
  • Stephen Jones Comme des Garcons – we are seriously overdue for another interesting violet, one of the early notes in perfumery that we swooned over together.  What is not to love about a CdG fragrance in a milliner’s hatbox that is supposed to smell like a violet colliding with a meteorite?  Smoky, inky, toasted, spicy, leathery, violet and strange, and highly wearable.
  • Serge Lutens Serge Noire and Five O’Clock Au Gingembre – Noire is a love-it-or-hate-it, depending on how much armpit you get, among other things.  Five O’Clock seems either to enchant or irritate.  But both of these provoke enough rabid reaction and devotion the list seems incomplete without them.
  • Cartier Roadster – Unisex, earthy, vetiver goodness, slightly mineralic, a scent you can happily wear every day or all night.  Elegantly Cartier, but keeping it unique.
  • Frederic Malle Dans tes Bras Strange and wonderful earthy, mushroomy violet, it’s a walk in a beautiful forest with a little sprig of violet posies in your hand on a sublimely happy day.  Beautifullly executed and never slick
  • Rosine Rose Praline A Gourmand rose that somehow splits the difference perfectly.  One of Rosine’s best efforts in years and a line that is far too underappreciated.
  • The Woods Grow in Macy’s — okay, maybe a “molten river of woods” is the new litchi, but we’re still happy to see woody/ambery mainstream scents that don’t smell like someone barfed up a daiquiri.  Honorable Mention Shout-Out to Estee Lauder Sensuous and Amber Ylang, and Calvin Klein’s Secret Obsession.

Note: image is Bottles & Reflections (Revised) by dvaires at flickr; some rights reserved, image of “Modernity, Mirrored and Reflected Infinitely” by Josiah McElheny (2003), MOMA

For other Best Perfumes of 2008 lists see Bois de Jasmin, Now Smell This, and Perfume-Smellin’ Things.

  • AllaboutEve says:

    Ohhh!Hey! Long time no post! Although I’m a bit late..Merry Christmas! 🙂
    Really nice list…I’ve tried..let’s see..the Chanels…and the SL’s..that’s it!But my mayor problem right now is..I love all those Exclusifs!!I’m trying to find out which 3 (or 5,hehe) I love best to get me some bigger decants ..in order to find out which one I realllllyyyyy wanna buy! Do you think I’ll ever find out??
    Wanna try the Le Labo’s, the Amouages, all the Frederic Malle’s…well…this is the good part of beeing a newbie..there’s a lot to do in 2009!But..umm.yes.my “best of” is finding out this year that I actually have this thing called perfume-freakiness…and that there’s all you guys out there!Don’t know what I like more..smelling new perfumes, or reading about them here..
    Hugs!!!:)

  • Arwen says:

    Great list! My year had Annick Goutals as book ends. My first purchase of 2008 was Encens Flamboyant and my last was Amber Fetiche. I love the 2008 Chanels, and the Serge Lutens I have smelled (need a sample of Attarine) I love Serge Noire and it made a nice addition to my collection. Now I need to get over the fear of wearing it in public! I see a bottle of Gingembre in my future. Dans te Bras did nothing for me, but in all honesty I only had one spritz before it was officially issued. I am very tempted to buy Amouage Homage, but that will mean less purchases throughout 2009. Another highlight of my fragrant year was the nice blogs, The Guide and the beautiful book by Roja Dove. The last book I had purchased about perfumes was Michael Edwards’ about 10 years ago.
    Thanks for all the great reviews and information. I also enjoyed the nail polish fixation.

    • March says:

      Hey, that’s a lovely list of purchases! Do you layer your AGs? They were beautifully done. I think you should get over your fear of Noire and wear it in public. Dans I have only smelled as glorious on one person and mushroomy on everyone else, it’s a shapeshifter.

      I’m staring at my nails right now, Revlon Red. Thanks for your support and encouragement, and please stay tuned for 2009! <:-p

  • Calypso says:

    This is the year I discovered patchouli, a big new step for me… CdG Luxe Patchouli, Chanel Coromandel, SL Borneo, and Le Labo Patch 24 being my favorites. It could be many years before I make more finds comparable to these. I like the new Chanel Exclusifs but they simply do not last more than 10 minutes on my skin. Poof! I found Vetiver Dance and Serge Noire just about unwearable. Hmmm. Didn’t like the EL’s at all. The one from this year I liked was Bond Andy Warnhol Lexington Avenue. Not something for everyday, too sweet, but sort of fun and nice. I am really dying to try the CdG Stephen Jones. Apart from that I’m feeling a bit sated. Maybe too many Harry & David chocoloate truffles? (My dad is sharing the bag he got for Christmas.)

    • March says:

      Now, I am interested/pleased to see Lex Ave on so many people’s lists and comments. Clearly it’s one of the more popular Bonds. Vetiver Dance smelled like pickle juice on me (shhhhh.)

      I’m a little grossed out by the amount of sweets being consumed Chez March this week, and we are professional sugar-eaters.

      • allabouteve says:

        Ohh,yeeepp…Vetiver Dance smells bad on me too..isn’t it terrible when a frag you’ve been waiting for (I love vetiver and Andy’s such a nice guy!), finally doesn’t work on you?On me it ver strongly reminds me of a chemical used by an aunt of mine to perm hair in her hairdressing salon..and I just haaaated that smell when I was a kid!

  • Shelley says:

    It’s hard for me to point to 2008 fragrances, since this was my first year, and just about everything (except maybe Jean Nate) was new to me.

    So, my “best of 2008” would have to focus on.
    * Blogs, which absolutely followed the Aristotelian ideal: I was both informed and entertained;
    * Perfumistas, who have turned out to be a fabulous, sharing, thoughtful, intelligent group of people;
    * The joys of the swap;
    * The utility of the decant;
    * The utter delight at discovering a fresh passion;
    * ChiCocoa, which proved that I can spend the day huffing in close quarters with strangers and end up with a whole bunch of new friends.

    The Posse holds a special place in my heart–my first regular blog, the place where I delurked as a commenter, and came out as a perfumista. So, if I appear to be buttering the bread a little thick right now, it’s just because I’m…thankful. I’m feeling the love.

    However, I’d take Beige off that list and replace it with Eau Premiere. 😉

    • March says:

      Heh heh. I’d almost put Eau Premiere on this list, but wasn’t it 2007? Also I wish it was a hair less rose-y on me, although it’s pretty darn fine.

      And thank you for coming out and playing with us. >:d<

      • Shelley says:

        Well, that confirms it…*everything* is new to me. And yes, I go Google, and learn my lesson for today; I see reviews in August & Sept of 2007 (including yours). On the other hand, Basenotes puts 2008 next to the name…so I guess I can absolve myself of the worst trivia transgressions. ;))

        For a moment there, I thought you said you wished for a “hairy rose”…something I wouldn’t put past you… :>

  • Kim says:

    As a relative newbie, I focused recently on exploring Guerlain, Comme des Garcons, and Parfumerie Generale. So for me, this year was about total obsession with Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleue and total love for CdG 888 and PG Corps et Ames.
    I didn’t have as much time during the last part of the year to sample so I haven’t tried many of the niche releases and nothing overwhelmed me of the main contenders. I really liked Chanel No. 5 Eau Première and Lutens Serge Noire but it wasn’t total love and obsession. I still haven’t had time to try Felanilla & Drama Nuuï so there is hope for a new 2008 perfume.

    • Kim says:

      sorry – forgot to add total love for Guerlain’s Djedi – a rerelease of that in a bee bottle would make my year if it ever happens
      😡

      • March says:

        Well, that’s a pretty great list of samplings and loves right there, and I am joining you on the Djedi. Why won’t they stop already with the heliotrope and give us some of that? [-o<

  • Robin says:

    So Dianne Brill made Best Of?!? Ok, I guess i really do need to get a sample? And another of Rose Praline…

    • March says:

      R, not sure anyone on the face of the earth would agree with me about Dianne Brill 🙂

      just the words “rose praline” together like that make me :-ss

  • violetnoir says:

    Great list, y’all!

    May I also add Pulp (okay, maybe I was the only one who really liked this?), Skarb, SDV, Lexington Avenue, and Onda (finally arrived in the States this year)? I am wearing Poivre 23 today, and cannot believe how gorgeous it is.

    This was not a particularly great year for new perfume releases, but I have a feeling that 2009 will be wonderful! I will keep my fingers crossed.

    Hugs, and the best to you in 2009!

    • March says:

      No, no, I think several people liked Pulp! It’s too much for me, but it’s darn compelling.

      Also, dang it, I’m realizing somehow the Veros didn’t make our list. 🙁 They were on our draft, wonder if I accidentally edited them out? Putting in the links? 😮 That would be horrible.

      • violetnoir says:

        Babe, the Vero Profumo line had been out in 2007, late 2006, so you did not miss them at all. All I am saying is that they became available in the US in 2008. 😡

        • March says:

          Dude. Where’s my brow-wiping emoticon…

          #:-s

          Patty probably took them out for that reason. For all I know we had them in there last year. :”>

          • violetnoir says:

            Yep, you did have it on 2007’s best of list! (As well as SDV…Was that released at the beginning of 2007? I could have sworn it was released at the beginning of 2008? It just goes to show you how addled my brain is and how time slips away.)

          • March says:

            I feel so much better now.

            Believe me, trying to figure out when things had been released in the avalanche was a drag.

  • Calypso says:

    The artist should be credited who created the marvelous work that this is a photograph of. It is Josiah McElheney, Modernity circa 1952, Mirrored and Reflected Infinitely, 2004

  • Catherine says:

    Well, I think I’ve tried maybe three on that list–and not even real tries. Maybe I should dig out that Dans Tes Bras that the SA mailed me a month ago (a sign of a bad economy–a Barney’s SA calling and offering to send me samples). My vote for 2008: Mona di Orio Amyitis. Perfection. I’m wearing it today.

    • March says:

      Seriously? Galliano? hmmmm….. Oh Do Fear is sort of like Fuel to me, fuel maybe a bit weirder.

      • March says:

        That’s so funny, link in completely the wrong place. This in response to Divalano.

        I’m glad you’re enjoying the Amyitis. And I’ve smelled Dans on one person it was glorious on.

  • Billy D says:

    This year was the year of the By Kilians and Tom Fords for me. I was in a baroque mood.

    Just had to mention that I believe the pic is taken from a sculpture in our collection, or at least another work in the series:

    http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=503178&coll_keywords=endlessly+repeating&coll_accession=&coll_name=&coll_artist=&coll_place=&coll_medium=&coll_culture=&coll_classification=&coll_credit=&coll_provenance=&coll_location=&coll_has_images=&coll_on_view=&coll_sort=0&coll_sort_order=0&coll_view=0&coll_package=0&coll_start=1

    It’s one of the visitor’s favorites 🙂

    • Robin says:

      It is given attribution if you follow the link to the photo at Flickr…

    • Billy D says:

      Oh yeah, oops, it’s another piece from the same artist–my lazy clicking is to blame!

      • March says:

        Yeah, but the click-through isn’t very clear about the attribution, my apologies. I’ll do better the next time about researching the image.

        • Robin says:

          Well, this was my fault. It’s a photo of a part of an artwork by another artist. I should have written a better attribution, sorry!

          • March says:

            Yeah, YOUR fault. >:p

            I have wanted to use that forever. Sorry.

            I had no idea about the image. Also I think it’s incorrectly attributed in the photo (and now in my post) as MOMA? When it’s the Milwaukee Art Museum or something similar? I did enjoy the commentary below the photo.

  • sara says:

    Terrific round-up! I have yet to try many of the scents you’ve mentioned; 2008 was the year I mainly spritzed what I already own. Lexington Avenue is the only new scent I loved enough to buy. Happy New Year to everyone! Sara

  • Divalano says:

    I think I had perfume apathy this year. Like Matt I’m gonna man up to saying I haven’t tried many of these either. My alibi: most of them sounded like they wouldn’t be me so I got a case of why-bothers.

    I did try the Diane Brill & had same experience as Louise – great start with a mushy meandering messy drydown into perfumey meh. I’ve pulled it out of the swap pile based on March’s last review of it but have been putting off re-trying. Had the same kind of experience with the Gingembre. And the Serge Noir was just very Not Me.

    So, like Louise I spent the year sniffing backwards, if not classic. Today I’m sniffing so backwards I’m on the very discontinued Eau du Fier which I’ve recently realized is the perfect tea for cold weather. I’ve also invested in a couple of backup bottles of Barbara Bui. Maybe ’09 will bring me some love that’s er, still in production 😉

    • March says:

      My backup bottles of Barbara Bui seem to be reproducing in the closet, along with Fendi Theorema :”> And now the vintage Femme, even older. Fier is a bit much for me, I prefer Dyptique Galliano, but I hear you. Hey, have you tried the re-released DK Fuel? Wonder what you thought of that? I could never decide. :)>-

      • Divalano says:

        I can’t wear Fier without remembering your (? it was you I think?) review calling it Oh de Fear. But then last wk I sat near a man who was wearing it & it was so divine I had to keep leaning in to sniff more. And then I found the LAST bottle at the Copenhagen Annick Goutal boutique sooooo … nothing like something being rare to make it NEEDED lol.

        Fuel? I need to try that? I’m afraid!! Couldn’t wear the Galliano btw, was too dry or somethingsomething for me (saw bottles of the room spray 1/2 price at NYC SpaceNK on Fri btw)

        • March says:

          I responded to you on someone else’s comment, and duh. I wish you’d try Fuel only because it reminds me of Oh Do Fear, and thanks for the tip about the Galliano. :)>-

  • louise says:

    I feel so very, um, out of synch here :-s With a few notable exceptions, 2008 has been a year of returning to classics, because almost none of the new releases worked for me.

    The notable exceptions from your list are Poivre (true heaven) and Sycamore, which may be the best thing I’ve smelled on my son, a true marvel on his skin.

    Sadly the Brill went to messy nothing on me, the Amouages were just pretty (and not up to the price), the FM went emergency-room fungal (no violet), all the SLs hurt me deeply, and the Stephen Jones dropped it’s violet in the first 3 minutes after meeting me (cool bottle, though). I need to retry Roadster, and have a sneaking suspicion that the Rosine may be my friend :>

    Now that I feel like a complete grinch or maybe:(|), I’ll add that I do like Penhaligon’s Elixir a lot, and lurve Bell’Antonio, though I’m not sure that the latter was a 2008 release. Off to dip my head in a vat of vintage Femme now.

    Thanks, dear ones, for a year of fabulous posts and friendship
    😡

    • March says:

      As you know, I’ve been wearing a lot of vintage stuff too. :)>- Love that vintage Femme! It’s fun seeing people’s lists, though. I’m already anticipating some of next year’s releases.

    • Musette says:

      You poor darling!:((

      ………wait! you, erm, have a VAT of vintage Femme???:-? Who could ask for anything more!

      If you are jonesin’ for violet I strongly urge you to try LZ’s Violets and Rainwater. I am still stunned at how ‘violet’ it is on me (ymmv, of course). But it’s not that icky-sick violet, more like a violet nosegay that’s been dropped in a culvert and run over by a wagon-wheel.

      And I got that, even with a minor sinus infection!

      On the 2008 list, I have Mistress March and Mistress Shelley for my induction into the Hall of Lust that is vintage Femme. Thank G-d I wasn’t with you two on Mitsouko Day or I would’ve had to kill myself! I turned away from a lot of niche as the year wore down but I have decided to use this week to revisit some of the FMs – today is Lipstick Rose. I’m wearing face powder and eyeliner so I feel somewhat worthy.

      Happy New Year, darling!

      xo>-)

      • March says:

        Lipstick Rose sounds perfect for you today! And yes, I’m pretty sure Mitsouko-fest would have done you in.

        Lord, I just spend 20 mins arguing with Diva about why she couldn’t wear black fishnets, a black mini and her booby-emphasizing shirt out with her friend tonight. It’s God punishing me, isn’t it? At least I could laugh about it. I said, here, let me channel my father, verbatim, to me at the same age…

        she stomped upstairs to change. her argument is, she’s wearing Uggs so the rest of it doesn’t count.

      • Louise says:

        Happy New Year to you, superwoman >:d< (darn, no flying hero 'moticons...)

  • Musette says:

    I am so, SO lame!:”> Tried none of these. Well, not true – I tried Lyric but it didn’t register overmuch with me. Then again, this time of year I’m lucky if I can smell a rotting wildebeest.

    Great list, though. I say that because your descriptions cause me to want to sniff at least most of these!

    xo>-)

    • March says:

      Well, I know for a fact you’ve done a lot of sniffing and discovery this year, babe. So what if it’s not on our list? Plenty of time to sniff. Here’s to sweet-smelling friends.

    • Graham says:

      Rotting Wildebeest…. hmmm….. Isn’t that in the Demeter line? :d/ That’d make a great Prix Eau Faux entry……