Hope everyone had a great holiday weekend!!!
There is an SA or manager at the Tom Ford counter at Bergdorf Goodman that has some serious skills. Every time there is a new launch of a Tom Ford product, out of the blue, a sample of it hits my desk. I know she does it to others too, and it never fails to just thrill me – whether I like the fragrance or not doesn’t matter, this is a person in sales who truly gets how you sell something. I got all the new ones except the Suede thing. Isn’t there a Grey Vetiver one too that’s around? Anyway, I was predisposed to finding lots to like in them just because I’m so darn happy when something I didn’t ask for and really wanted to try lands in my mailbox.
Tom’s fragrances and I don’t always get along. White Patchouli was a mess for me, and I did like Black Orchid when lots of people hated it. I like a lot of his Private Blend scents, but about the same number of them leave me cold. I didn’t really like his city exclusive thing because I don’t think his scents are so great or oroginal that he could have the level of exclusivity that Le Labo does. Plus, Le Labo is a pretty small line with much smaller sales targets to hit for a launch – and a much smaller advertising budget they have to live up to – plus I think their scents are just scads better, and I’m much more motivated to hunt them down and call in all sorts of favors to get ahold of them. Tom’s – eh, I can wait.
The new musk series he has intrigued me because I’m thinking with his smutty, shirtless, smoldering eyes persona, how could he not do musk in a sensual, bite my lip sort of way. Well, yeah.
Urban musk has notes of ambrette seed absolute extra, white pepper CO2, cumin, white honey, jasmine sambac, black plum, Tonkin musk headspace and benzoin Laos orpur. I don’t even know what a lot of that is. The ambrette is pretty prominent from the moment it leaves the spray chute, and me no likey the open that much. There’s a weird almost tanginess to it. And plastic? Kinda, yeah. I’m not a fan on the open, but as it dries down, I do like it more as the honey and spice comes out to play and the musk makes an appearance. It becomes much more smooth and well rounded and quite nice, but I wouldn’t really call it earthy or sensual musk, not what I was expecting. It’s much more soft and cuddly, which I think is what he was going for, and the Urban succeeds in capturing that. It’s nice, really! I’m still just a little befuddled, but only by my own expectations. Of the three, Urban is my favorite. It’s very easy to wear, not an overpowering musk, but also not one that stands out as unique or different.
Pure musk I was prepared to love. I mean, right? Notes of bergamot, pepper, ylang-ylang orpur, jasmine, lily of the valley, orris butter, orris absolute, jasmine sambac, tonka, benzoin tears and beeswax. Again, the tangy thing on the open, which I could have lived with, until it morphed into Clean? I swear. I haven’t smelled any of the Clean fragrances in years, but that’s what I get, or at least some aspect of it just has that window wiper smell that the Clean fragrances have that used to make my stomach churn. I can’t get beyond that. Even in the longer drydown, it’s there. If someone else has smelled this, tell me if it’s me or the perfume. Hate it. Seriously.
Jasmine Musk is probably my favorite of the three on the open. Notes of ylang ylang, jasmine, patchouli, orris, vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, cistus, amber and musk. This is closer to the straight-up musk I was thinking I’d get. The jasmine is far from indolic to my nose, so it doesn’t go to the more feral, smutty scent I was thinking/hoping/praying it would be. It’s a fairly standard musk with some floral and vanilla notes. Well done, soft, but nothing I’m doing backflips over.
I’d wear the Jasmine and Urban Musk happily and like them, but I don’t get the angle they’re going for here to differentiate this in a market that has some pretty great musks already.
Did we cover the cost? $180 for 50 mls. That’s the deal-breaker for me. There’s nothing that special about them that could persuade me to shell out that kind of dough for some pretty average musks. Narciso Rodriguez does a great musk for less than half that price. I think they’ll probably wind up doing great, though, because love him or hate him, Tom Ford sells stuff with his name on it.
Hey, my little samples were free, so you know what that means! You can see if you agree with me or if this is your next new Holy Grail. Just drop a comment and be entered to win a samples set of these. I think I have enough in my little vials to do like two sample sets.
Tom Ford scents, hate ’em or love ’em? I fully expect all the Tom Ford hatahs to show up. I’m pretty indifferent to him, except I do like to look at him.
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