Hey, Hey Posse! Today we are in the department store. Black Opium was released by Yves Saint Laurent (YSL Beauty) in 2014. Perfumers Nathalie Lorson, Marie Salamagne, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc all have their names on it. The bottle is a very clever, crystalline, glittering black concept which references the original 1977 cut out Opium bottles by Pierre Dinand. It drew only derogatory sneers of outrage from me when I first smelled it. From Patty too. How could they do such a flanker to the fragrance that instantly captured department store buyers back to an oriental from the 1970s chypres and aldehydic florals?
OK, so I’ve had 5 years to simmer down. Time to come at Black Opium again with a different mindset.
Oh, and for those that are giving a shit about it this year……
Black Opium EdP by Yves Saint Laurent
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, Orange blossom
Heart: Coffee, Jasmine
Base: Vanilla, Patchouli, Cedar
Pink pepper and plastic wrapped white flowers floating over a cold heart of coffee. All done in a 21st century sheer-radiant style. It’s not bad. Actually, compared to a lot of the dross we are being offered as fine fragrance in the current market it’s nice.
I can smell why it’s a hit. Now I understand how it stands aside from the crowd of similar scents. It doesn’t stand out, particularly, but it is different enough. That is what happens, isn’t it? An era comes along and all the fragrances in a genre smell alike. Remember the chypres of the 1970s, the bombastic BWFs of the 1980s, water perfumes of the 1990s? Alll of them were riffs on a theme and so is Black Orchid.
Dry down is that modern super clean patchouli with hints of other things to give some lift. A bunch of musks to smooth everything over and something else that I know but can’t place. One of those ubiquitous base building blocks.
On Jin Black Opium smells like a spiced latte with floral accents. His skin works so fabulously with it that I can’t even recognise it on him. Don’t I wish….
Surrender To Chance has samples from $4/ml
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Portia also writes for Australian Perfume Junkies