Hiya Posse. Barbara Herman is one of my perfume heroes. Originally a blogger, Yesterday’s Perfume, then an author, Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume (2013). Then Eris Parfums, a fragrant house steeped in history for modern sensibilities. On top of that every interaction I’ve had with Barbara has been pleasant, smooth, and warm. We aren’t besties but have communicated through emails irregularly. At every point in her journey, to an onlooker from afar, she has achieved excellence gracefully. The perfume line, created by perfumer Antoine Lie with Barbara’s creative direction, are a series of beautiful, considered, interesting fragrances with very fond looks to the past. Today, after wearing half my sample I decided that we needed to revisit Belle de Jour.
Belle de Jour by Eris Parfums
Eris Parfums give these featured accords:
Top: Moroccan Coriander, Madagascan Pink Pepper, Tunisian Orange Flower
Heart: Spanish Cistus Labdanum, Egyptian Jasmine, Indian Pimento Berry
Base: Atlas Cedarwood, Musk (synthetic), Seaweed Absolute
People have the impression that an animalic perfume needs to be huge. A ball breaking, axe wielding Amazon of a fragrance. Belle de Jour is proof that they need be no such thing. If anything it plays quite the demure wallflower. It’s very pretty and you’d hardly notice the raunch. That is unless you get in really close and suddenly nuit d’amour.
A lightly sizzling fruit compote opening that has green undertones keeping it grounded. A fresh, blue sky and joyfully summertime fragrance that does clean, sweet and green in a thoroughly modern vintage reincarnation. There a Play Doh references from I don’t know what.
Dry green wood comes through the heart, like pruning camellia branches or old cold tea leaves. Belle de Jour is cool. Both the cool of temperature and cool kids. I can imagine it being perfect for both sexes but it skews towards modern feminine. For something so nuanced it’s extremely wearable. Could even become an easy, signature spritz and go.
The raunch is cleverly contained within a jasmine, seaweed, musk pyramid. It smells like sea air meets humanity and floats below a soft and pretty fragrance. An interesting dichotomy and only super noticeable in testing conditions. Outside it’s only the merest hint. That classic French hit of ass but very low key.
I’ve talked about Green Spell on Posse before too.
Did you, would you Belle de Jour?
Portia xx
This post has echoes of a previous APJ post.
I.Need.This! Gotta go and check where I can find the samples in Europe…
Thank you so much for this review, Portia.
Welcome Neva,
Hope you can find and test it.
Portia x
Rats! Eris is at Etiket in Montreal, I missed them during my visit in May! Too distracted by all the new Ormande Jaynes probably.
BUMMER AnnieA.
How were the OJs?
Portia xx
I would!
Hey Tom,
You would smell gorgeous in this.
Portia x
I remember her blog – it was a font of information, beautifully written. This sounds Not Quite Me – but it does sound gorgeous!!!
Yeah, the book is also amazing Musette,
Portia xx
This sounds absolutely lovely; I admit I’ve not tried any of them, and I should.
OMG! March, if ever a house made perfumes that I think you’ll go wild for then Eris is it.
Portia xx
Skank central!
I’m sure you have but if not do try Marlou Paris too
Any particular one Alityke?
Portia xx
There are only 4. All animalics & for niche they are reaonably priced.
My favourite it Poudrextase & I bought a full bottle.
I did a bit of a review of all 4 as part of a musk blog post on alitykescents.
https://alitykescents.wordpress.com/2023/03/17/a-week-of-musks/
This sounds intriguing, especially the ‘dry’ green aspect and the way the pong is achieved. Off to have a look.
Cinnamon,
You may just like this,
Portia xx
Brooke at Sainteceller does very reasonable samples
Yup, had a look. Probably get a couple.
She gives great discounts & is a fabulous resource. Including some very special things.
I’ve read and re-read Scent and Subverion many times, and it is a wonderful fragrance reference book. I also adore the.Eros perfumes, my fave is Ma Bette. I don’t have any full bottles, but always on my wish list. XO
Eris
Oh yes Kathleen, Ma Better is bloody gorgeous. I’m seriously thinking of a bottle purchase
Portia xx
Being a lover of vintage perfumes, I loved Yesterday’s Perfume. I never did get around to trying her perfumes though. Next time I do an order at a place that carries Eris, I will throw in a couple of samples.
Good idea Maya,
I bet you find a new favourite or two.
Portia xx
Ooo, very cool! I was part of the crowd-sourced funding for Green Spell, but I haven’t kept up with all of the Eris offerings. This one sounds intriguing. Portia, I jumped on that good deal for Etro Messe de Minuit you mentioned a couple weeks ago and bought a bottle. I’m loving it! Thanks a bunch.
Hey DinaC,
I was a Green spell crowd funder too. Such a lovely potion.
YAY for extra good deals on niche. I’m glad you’re loving Messe de Minuit. Me too
Portia xx
This is the only Eris perfume that I own, it’s lovely.
Ahhhh! TaraC, I will join you in ownership soon.
Portia xx
I’ve read and re-read Scent and Subversion – it’s an amazing book and I’d be tempted to try any perfume the author was behind!
MaggieCat,
You’ll love the whole range. they are stellar.
Portia xx