Back in the day when I was young and silly (ier) I was one of those people who would wait with bated breath for things. The idea of a new iAnything would have me online reading AppleFanInsider.com or whomever who would be live posting from the keynote. I’d be furiously refreshing the page in hopes that there would be more than which pair of New Balance Steve Jobs would be wearing and onto what was coming: Sometimes it was something groundbreaking like the iPhone. Sometimes something less so, like the iPod HiFi.
Serge Lutens for me had that kind of allure. They had their infamous two-tier biannual releases: The Export line, which was available everywhere, and the Exclusives, which were only available at the Paris mothership. Do you need to ask which are the ones that I wanted?
Yes, I do love MKK
Even at the time I thought that this release schedule was not sustainable: even the most brilliant of perfumers and wonderful of houses simply could not release that many scents at that rate and keep knocking them out of the park: they would have to tread the same ground sometime. In the case of SL, it seems that all the places that carried them either went the way of the buffalo (Barneys) or just stopped (Luckyscent.) Which means that although I do have an interest in trying the newest one, called Le Perce-Vent, I don’t have any way to do so other than purchasing a full bottle. (It doesn’t look like anyone else has tried it either- most are just regurgitating the marketing blurbs from SL, which are notoriously opaque) Since I am not important enough to warrant a sample (and don’t kid myself that I am such an INFLUENCER that I deserve one) even though it sounds right up my alley I’ll wait until it shows up at Surrender to Chance.
The former Barneys in Beverly Hills, now Saks.
One of the other Serge releases that came out at Barneys was the Section d’Or Collection, a line which I think SL was thinking would bring them into a higher tier in price- the bottles being about $600 when I first tried them at Barneys. I remember the ones that I tried as very nice, definitely a bit richer than the regular stuff. But wondering why they thought that these were worth such a premium over the regular lines, which had some groundbreaking, unforgettable stuff that were at the time less than half the price for a bell jar. $600 was edging into JAR territory, and as much as I adore Uncle Serge, there weren’t nothing in the Section d’Or Collection that would have Fermez Tes Yeux sitting in a corner, smoking nervously.
Because of the good graces of a friend and commenter (who can chime in with identity if desired-otherwise shall remain anonymous) sent me this cunning little bottle as well as some other goodies. She wrote that l’HdD just didn’t do much for her, which seems to have been the general consensus of bloggers out there in Fragrance Land. It’s spicy, it’s milky, it’s pencil shavings, it’s musk, and its frosted with a bright, almost minty accord like a sheaf of ice. It’s $600.
It’s also, apparently discontinued, along with the rest of the Section d’Or scents.
Have any of you tried these? Please share your thoughts in the comments.
Images: My iPhone, Pexels, Wikimedia Commons
Oh, how I miss Barneys. And sniffing SLs in that retail environment. This particular one, however, sounds eminently missable, at least for me! I’m surprised at how often SLs show up at discounters. Thrilled, but surprised.
My usual relationship with SL is no secret but I recently did a sample order from a place that carried some FM and SL that I wanted to try so I added them. (I’m so mad that I forgot MKK) I’m very surprised because I’m falling hard for SL La Vierge De Fer! It works so well on me and with me and for me. I love finding a perfume that has that little spark of magic.
I’ve seen that one at discounters. Just sayin..
The Section d’Or line is way too pricey for me. I seem to like Serge Lutens best when he’s not acting like his normal self, when he does a Clair de Musc, or a Bas de Soie, all demure and mindful. Restrained is not his go to mode.
I have to admit that I love his fireworks ones. But Clair de Musc is so beautiful that it’s hard to resist.
The Section d’Or were very nice, just for me not a draw.
I’m such a savage, I kinda blew past the original Barney’s SL offerings ( like I said: savage) and it wasn’t until I came upon De Profundis and my beloved Daim Blond that I started paying attention.
But! $600? Naw. Or, as the Very Inappropriate Man taught me to say ‘Nahmgood’
The problem for me not having a place to test them is that I am such a savage that I am not going to plunk down $150 in the fond hope that I will like it. So I wait for it to show up to Surrender to Chance.
Of course of SL is listening I could be had for the price of a sample (like a salted peanut, to paraphrase Margot Channing..)
There was a very short while where we were on first name basis with the SL Palais staff. It was a giddy time Tom.
Funnily, I never even noticed this particular release. It sounds fabulous but $600 seems like a lot.
Portia xx
How could you have missed the SL Section D’Or Gurl? LOL
They followed L ‘Incendiaire and were $600 at a time when even $250 for a fragrance was unthinkable and TF Decanters were $595. No one bought any except may be a few Arab princesses who don’t even ask about price. That’s why production became unsustainable.
Eric a perfumista who doesn’t blog – from the USA
Hi Eric
That’s likely why they were at Barneys. They were good. $300 good with a $600 price tag.
Hi Tom,
I can’t tell you how much I enjoy your articles on the Posse.
You have the best sense of humor!
I hope you keep giving us readers more and more.
By the way, there was a JAR boutique inside Bergdorf in NY up until last year. It’s a private alcove that you have to ask directions to! That employee also kept reduced hours. I wonder if he ever made any commission.
Well the jeweler Jay Arthur Rosenthal is probably retired by now and I have no clue who owns his brand and is still bankrolling the rent for that shop in Paris.
Would be great detective work.
To me the best JAR ever is: Bolt of Lightning.
There is a Ouai (Haircare line!) perfume that is not marketed in the USA named “Rue St Honore” that literally captures the scent of true gardenia! As you well know the scent of gardenia and magnolia cannot be extracted from the flower. It has to be reconstituted using different molecules.
Please try to smell Ouai St Honore if you have it in your country. It’s real gardenia!
Oh darn! I didn’t know that the JAR boutique was still open at Bergdorf’s as late as last year. I would have ordered a bottle of Fermez Tes Yeux (which I liked even better than Bolt of Lightning)
I went there years ago with a friend but talked myself out of buying a bottle since it was the price of my car insurance for the year..
That must have been lovely..
The Section d”Or were out a year or so after you last visited the states, when Barney’s moved the beauty level down to the cellar. They were JAR priced without being JAR interesting. (I know, heresy)
Not tried. I still kick myself for missing the JARs — if only to try. I think the shop is still around in Paris but you have to make an appointment … blah blah blah. I love Belle Jars — ie, the shape. I don’t think Uncle Serge has done better than that. Do I turn myself into a pretzel to try any of the new ones any more? Not really. If I stumble across them, for sure. I do really want to visit the Palais Royale shop in Paris. It was closed when I was travelling last September. Definitely on the list for next time.
I’ve never even been out of the States so a trip to Europe would be a dream.
Of course considering the current political climate I may have to emigrate..
I keep getting FB posts suggesting Americans could move to Scotland…
If I could find my Irish Grandparents birth records I could get Irish citizenship, But I am not sure how to get Granddads record. (I have his date and place of birth)
What about we all move to Greenland soon? It would just be an interstate move here in the US? LOL
Sadly Greenland is the original “Bait & Switch” in the name department, Eric the Red named it that hoping the nice PR name would lure people there. Iceland is the green one.
Nah. If I have to stop eating to buy something, I don’t bother sniffing. I likes my grub!
lol! Couldn’t have said it better!!!
We need to take someone to Roscoe’s..
Oh, honey, you just come hit the buffet with me. The Four Seasons does a wonderful brunch.